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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 11, 2012 - 12:52am PT
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In autumn 1974, I saw a bear on the Apron at Squamish. It came up to the start of Diedre, then well across the lower of the two long traverse cracks - the start of Banana Peel. It was interested in Chris McNeill's dog Friend who was with us, and prompted said dog to do the first and probably only canine ascent of the first pitch and a half of Diedre, to the point where Sickle diverges to the right.
Who's climbing Wednesday afternoon, rehydrating afterward, then going to the mountain festival?
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jul 11, 2012 - 01:57am PT
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speaking of dogs on the apron....
....that drunk al guy who is all was soloing in front of an audience at the little smoke bluffs claims his dog, Ginger I believe, has climbed bpeel, diedre and slab alley...
But a cougar at the bolts, thats full on!
I've been posting was too many silly comments and no pictures, so here's a pic for your viewing pleasures...
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jul 11, 2012 - 02:35am PT
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Who's climbing Wednesday afternoon, rehydrating afterward, then going to the mountain festival?
How about a mass ascent of the North North Gully (a stiff class 4.9) followed by a good cleaning of the Chlorophyll Variation on the North North Arete? Bring gardening tools, and perhaps a logging truck would be useful.
See you all at the festival, if not on the trails or slabs beforehand.
Where's the designated rehydration station?
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jul 11, 2012 - 03:03am PT
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I'll be climbing Wednesday but probably on those lowly blobs of rock just in from Psyche Ledge. This is the first I've heard of the mountain festival this year. When is it? Where? What is happening? Are there pony rides? Will there be lots of needy cougars?
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jul 11, 2012 - 03:33am PT
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A little bird told me, no wait that's a lie, it was an elderly gentleman of Scandinavian descent, that Tricouni will be showing a few slides at the Eagle Theatre @ 7.00pm today, Wednesday as part of the fest. Prolly be some of those monster glass slides they used years ago..........like Phyl Munday's. I wonder if they had colour back then?
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jul 11, 2012 - 11:51am PT
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psyked for mountain fest, psyked for glens presentation, psyked for perrys presentation!
Anders would you by any chance have a friend of chief buton for me...
I hope all you posers, oops posters, are participating in
adopt a crag trail day on saturday.
Does any one know where the eagle eye theatre is?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 11, 2012 - 12:44pm PT
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Events tonight begin at 7:00 PM. Doors open 6:30.
Eagle Eye Theatre is in Howe Sound Senior Secondary School.
http://www.squamishmountainfestival.com/mountain-film-festival.asp
Buttons will be available for true believers, and Bruce Kay.
As the Brew Pub is one of the festival sponsors, and has been for years, perhaps those interested should meet there no later than 5:30, to rehydrate etc.
I don't believe that any dog got up Diedre, Banana Peel or Slab Alley without help, and a belay. Sure, a dog could pad up good parts of all of them, with direction - maybe following its owner, with rope and harness. But there are steep bits on all the routes which would be very problematic. On Diedre, the step over the overlap in the lower corner, and then the last few m. On Banana Peel, the steep bit on the third pitch. On Slab Alley, steep bits on each of the first four pitches.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Jul 11, 2012 - 01:14pm PT
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Fellow by the name of John Reitsma climbed Slab Alley in Hush Puppies... A fair bit of tension and pulling required on the steep bits. About 1963.
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hamie
Social climber
Thekoots
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Jul 11, 2012 - 03:04pm PT
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Does an ascent in Hush Puppies count as a 'dog ascent', or is that in 'doggie style'? I've certainly 'dogged it' on lots of climbs, but without any kind of style.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 11, 2012 - 03:07pm PT
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It's all been hush hush until now.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Jul 11, 2012 - 05:43pm PT
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Is it soloing if your dog is tied to you?
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 11, 2012 - 06:08pm PT
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In 1982 my dog Charlie who was a border collie/irish setter cross who was very low slung followed me up the West Lion.On the one part where I was about to assist him he didn't like that idea and hopped across. I did have him roped up but he did freeclimb it onsight.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jul 11, 2012 - 11:01pm PT
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I'm pretty sure Biscuit the Wonder Dog (RIP) could've climbed most of the easy Apron slab routes.
I saw a garter snake chimneying its way up the opening finger crack of Vertically Challenged at Pink Kliff once.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jul 12, 2012 - 11:35am PT
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 12, 2012 - 11:58am PT
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Sandra follows the runout on P4 of Pineapple Peel
Awesome climb. Thanks for the scrub Anders!
Had fun at the fest last night. Glenn put on an awesome slide show and showed a cool movie about UBC Buildering and the FA of University Wall. The movies were pretty cool too. I highly recommend Driven.
gotta go to work!
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jul 12, 2012 - 01:56pm PT
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Oh ya first ngiht of mountain fest kicked ass!! Even tho PB didnt show up.. Big time hyped to see the behind the scene efforts of the riggong and logistic that went into deans base off mt bute, c yas there
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jul 12, 2012 - 08:15pm PT
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While hiking up to bellygood one day, little Eddie climbed up the rock at the knotted batman rope. Pretty impressive for a 20 lb. schipperke.
RIP buddy.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 12, 2012 - 08:24pm PT
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Glad you enjoyed Pineapple Peel - as I was tidying up Slab Alley anyway, it only took a few days of extra work. Nothing memorable, but another decent route worth doing, especially for the mandatory tree climb on the first pitch. (Take that, you tree-haters!) Maybe it'll spread people out a bit, too.
Did you do the 'new' 1/2 pitch that links into Slab Alley, or merge into Banana Peel?
ps You didn't have to tilt the photo quite so much, as it's nowhere near as steep as that.
And yes, Eddie was quite the scrambler.
(below) if you dont want to simul, dont skip the gear belay.
Or take a 70 m rope.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 13, 2012 - 12:03am PT
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Anders- yes we linked it to slab alley.
Mh2 actually caught me at the end of my rope just above the last bolt on second to last pitch of slab alley. I was giving the tugs to tell sandra to climb on. I tried to have a conversation with him, but he didn't seem to eager to talk considering my situation. ;)
so if you dont want to simul, dont skip the gear belay. ;)
i was looking at glen's voc picture of sa last night and noticed how small that tree was then. It would make the crack much harder!
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