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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Well probably the second of the first couple pitches. I'm thinking that's the 1st continuous ascent as I only led every pitch, but not all at once. Not too sure what else might have taken place there in the last 20 years though. What with the guide book calling it a crummy route and all.... :)
You watch, next week those guys will start at the bottom of Los Zapatos and then finish up the underfling and Cosgrove's face pitch.
Speaking of big efforts, Federer is hammering right now. Definitely one of my heroes of all time.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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I know you folks at the helm hate it when I go off the incredably fascinating topic of rock climbing but there are other impressive athletes out there too.
Federer is AMAZING!!
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Haha, a bolt fell off when he clipped it, classic on scary hard slab. In the new guidebook, he says the star rating applies only to the crack pitch. I don't think he meant the other pitches all suck. He just points out that people avoid the first 2 hard slab pitches, taking the easy route instead.
That would have been cool to watch for sure. I wonder if anyone shot video?
Los Zapatos is filthy dirty. There is a cleaned up 12b line to the right of L Z, that ends about 20 feet from the start of GL.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Guide book guy only likes the crack pitch? Each to his own I guess, but in the old days, those other pitches were pretty choice.
I wonder which bolt broke. And they still cranked it off; awesome! Maybe we over bolted it? Felt scary at the time. Salt water air and 3/8 hiltis, crazy stuff. Can't recall if we used stainless but I suppose it's looking like we cheaped out. To have one of those bolts shear off while clipping it.... pretty damn exciting.
Kinda makes me wonder about the belay bolts.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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So maybe someone needs to rappel the route, cleaning it a bit and replacing bolts where needed. Perhaps Hamish could bicycle-rappel, to ensure it's done correctly.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Sure sounds like you could pop those old bolts out with a well strung Wilson.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2012 - 11:56pm PT
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Sounds like fun! Climb the pillar then rap gl? Maybe we can coordinate another team to attempt it while im up there and i can get some sweet pics!
Oh ya. Since i dont own a hammerdrill and haven't ever put a bolt in the wall, obviously i'm not exactly the right person for this mission. But i am willing to lead the pillar for whatever that's worth.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Now that ya mention it Tami, I feel quite weird.
Maybe it because I've been out of maple syrup for over a week now, I'm just not myself with out a daily shot.
For those wondering how we got along on that gnarly V Grade route we attempted on the Smoke Bluff Wall we came really close, but ended up retreating.
Anders, are you implying you've done a bivy-less ascent of the route? SBCIAD
If so do you have any tips? I think the main problem was we just had too much sh#t. A triple rack to 4.5" should suffice, we brought quads and frankly I think it was overkill. That said we also could have made do with out the valley giants 5-11.
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TheSoloClimber
Trad climber
Vancouver
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Kieran told me that Luke fell trying to make the first move on pitch three, and he was too soft to go for it again. He tried to hand it off, but Kieran was all like, nah dude, your lead, and Luke was just too shook up to go for it again.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jeeezzzus,
Bugs and biters in the bluffs. Please die.
Thnks,
Relic
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2012 - 03:43pm PT
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Solid indeed. Another week two of this weather should see ypls as dry as a bone. Might be time for that attempt shortly.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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BeeKay lemme know if you need a partner, i need to retrieve my hat up there!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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LSBCSIAD, even. The moskreechers encourage steady progress, and I'm told that swatting them with a #11 Valley Giant is considered unsporting.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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ais and i are to up among the firs for some shady post work craggin, come climb with us!
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Jul 10, 2012 - 01:04pm PT
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Ais and i had a great time at up among the firs, it was our first time there, we tried to find it once but got side tracked by afternoon delight.
First we climbed a little testies, which was rad, then the nose, in much less then a day might I add.
Then Ais was feeling honed and decided to put up her first 5.9 on gear, wicker cranium, which she climber on sight. Then she put up totally clips for us which was also top notch climbing.
By the time we led two new lines each there was no time for poster boy.. Guess we'll have to go back some day.
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Relic
Social climber
Vancouver, BC
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Jul 10, 2012 - 02:05pm PT
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Yeah! Ais is our new rope gun. Sweet! Step aside Big Mike.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jul 10, 2012 - 10:05pm PT
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Solid indeed. Another week two of this weather should see ypls as dry as a bone. Might be time for that attempt shortly.
You should look to the style of your elders. When Serl and I climbed Tantalus Wall, we climbed YPLS by jugging a rope Peder had fixed on it. Don't know what he was doing that required a fixed rope, but we just jugged right by that ugly thing.
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hamish f
Social climber
squamish
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Jul 10, 2012 - 10:20pm PT
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I remember aiding that corner in the old days, as in, swami-belt harness era. I was suffering from too much rope drag so pulled up lots of rope and placed the loops on a ledge I was pulling up onto. The little tree I was yarding on pulled out and away I sailed; 50 feet probably, onto the 2" webbing wrapped around the waist. Good argument for leg loops.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jul 11, 2012 - 12:02am PT
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This isn't actually at Squamish but WTF. I ran into Boo Boo on a ledge at Harrison Bluffs on Sunday . Nearly rapped down on him.
I think he was having a nap in the cave under that flake you can see in the pic. Friction Addiction 5.9 goes straight up the mossy slab from there.
After 10 minutes or so he left.
Anybody ever meet a bear on route at Squamish? I recall David Woodsworth or somebody had a story a decade or so ago about topping out on a route at Pink Kliff? and finding a juvenile cougar at the top of the crag next to the belay bolts
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harryhotdog
Social climber
north vancouver, B.C.
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Jul 11, 2012 - 12:42am PT
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The hazards of rock climbing.After arriving unannounced and being shown the door we made a hasty retreat to respect it's territory![Click to View YouTube Video]
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