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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Feb 13, 2009 - 05:14pm PT
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Jeff,
Sure, let's get together in the spring to replace the bolts on Sahib!
(Like on Space Babble, it should not take very long - there are not very many of them! :-) )
We could use black hangers or a different brand ("ASCA"!)to help distinguish between the routes - like SMC vs. Leeper back in the day.
I agree with Randy - don't want green, pink, etc.! (I don't think Matt meant that, either). I remember seeing those at City of Rocks back in 1990 or so.
Nice - that does match up with Spencer's topo much better.
I think the tat sling Nate mentioned was from some years ago, before the bolts were replaced on p1.
Probably near where (4) crosses (5) in Grahm's revised photo above, before the first big runout.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
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Feb 13, 2009 - 05:15pm PT
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Cool stuff, Tork. I've never been up to Wo Dome. I know Richard Jensen and Mark Smith (yes, those guys) who put up a number of routes there and they've been telling me I need to get up there for a while now.
Thanks, Gene! :)
edit: Anyone who would like to impart their knowledge of the fine art of (re)bolting would get any help from me they'd like.
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crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
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Feb 13, 2009 - 05:22pm PT
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me leading the FA of Balls Deep on Nightwatch
me and tork on a 5.12 that i finished with Nico Favresse two? years ago...still no anchor on top
welding up the oakhurst wall
the finished product
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crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
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Feb 13, 2009 - 05:25pm PT
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Nef. wrote:
edit: Anyone who would like to impart their knowledge of the fine art of (re)bolting would get any help from me they'd like
come to any SSCA event and you will have probably 5 dudes who would love to teach. Since i've been involved with the club, we've easily replaced 500 bolts with much help and assistance both in labor and supplies from Greg (ASCA).
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Feb 13, 2009 - 05:26pm PT
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Matt,
The 1/4" bolts on Sahib p1 have been replaced with 3/8", as Nate mentioned.
klk,
aldude ain't showing no age - I'm sure he's well aware of the reason and just teasing. He puts up very hard face routes on lead.
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crazy horse
Trad climber
seattle, wa
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Feb 13, 2009 - 05:29pm PT
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Well if they're still there, then that would be a pretty easy way to see where the route went since all of the modern routes have been put in within the last 2 years
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Feb 13, 2009 - 05:34pm PT
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Grahm climbs fricking hard. Wouldn't surprise me if that was rope solo stanced/hooked.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Feb 13, 2009 - 05:36pm PT
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clint-- yeah, i know al or used to. i was just giving him a hard time.
it's not appropriate for this thread, but it was also because i've been thinking a lot recently about the rise and fall of climbing as a partnered sport.
there's a whole social history in the way the newer routes cross over the old.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Feb 13, 2009 - 05:37pm PT
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Randy,
I have a bunch of topos of those guys routes. Some scary looking sh#t, way bold.
Wo Dome is another candidate for bolt replacement
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Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
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Feb 13, 2009 - 05:39pm PT
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Tork - That sucks! I hiked all the way to Electric with gear ropes etc to finish a route and same thing... No drill bits. Dooh! Thats the worst feeling.
Sahib definitely has an anchor a ways right of Banana. Maybe not quite as far as pictured but its over there.
I did notice an old quarter incher left of Constellation somewhere. I thought this was just an odd ball bolt you find hanging on walls sometimes from other people checking it out. Maybe Sahib weaves way back left and finishes above Wingo. If that's the case then the route traverses right 60 feet on the first pitch and then back left 60 feet maybe more before finishing. They mentioned a small crack toward the top. This should help finding it. I actually originally thought Sahib went up "8" past the poot sling to the anchor and the real Sahib was a contrived variation start because it had newer bolts!
I also thought Sahib went up the trough to the right on the second pitch because that looked like the path of least resistance. And they talked about climbing through a "depression" However I could see how they could trend out left as the knobs are gigantic even though they run diagonally across the wall. Had no idea we were even crossing Sahib. I thought the whole thing was to the right when we were putting up our lines.
The bolts on Sahib's first pitch stand out against the all stainless steel bolts on the new routes. Also it follows the easiest line of knobs across the wall. It would be hard to get lost. Just stay on the biggest knobs. Probably same thing for the other pitches.
Nobody chopped any bolts so whatever was there before should still be.
I don't plan on adding more pitches to Wingo. Not really interested in climbing a 12d and then finishing up a 5.9.
Also Sahib probably starts further left of Wingo where the features are bigger and the climbing is easier. Because of all the huge traversing this route is a bit of a mystery for now.
Looking forward to figuring this out in the spring!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Feb 13, 2009 - 06:01pm PT
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ParTAY at Chiquito
Chiquito Burrito Mosquito SPIRito
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hungry man
Trad climber
around
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Feb 13, 2009 - 06:04pm PT
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Thanks for the awesome thread, everyone! beautiful pictures.
I've posted this one before,
Edit:
I was really disappointed when I got up there last time. Someone recently drilled a bolt ladder on the 2nd (or 3rd) pitch of the Beckey Route/Blue Moon. I was shocked because it has been climbed so many times without those bolts.
Bummer! Anyone know the story?
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Feb 13, 2009 - 06:15pm PT
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Grahm,
Thanks for the input.
Forgetting the bits wasn't so bad, I got a lot more climbing in that day.
Munge,
Your right, Grahm is wicked strong but I don't think hooking is his thing.
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Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
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Feb 13, 2009 - 06:17pm PT
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I'll see your scenic shot and raise you four!
The magic sign...
Wish there was something to climb around here...
Peekaboo Beak...
Electrified by Gray...
What to climb first?
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Feb 13, 2009 - 06:21pm PT
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That's a lot of rock...
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Feb 13, 2009 - 06:28pm PT
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I almost got electrified getting this pic above Gray
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Gene
climber
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Feb 13, 2009 - 06:33pm PT
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From the road!
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Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Oakhurst, CA
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Feb 13, 2009 - 06:35pm PT
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Shocking! I can almost hear the sizzle in the air!
Munge - It would surprise me! Rope solo stance hooking is more a Crazy Horse kinda thing...
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Feb 13, 2009 - 06:36pm PT
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Matt,
How about the pics of you putting up that route in the snow storm?
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SuperTopo on the Web
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