Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Climbup
Trad climber
Roseville, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 10, 2009 - 12:57am PT
|
Does anyone know if there is a rappel route off the east wall at Lover's Leap?
I believe there is one down Psychedelic Tree, but I am not sure.
Any advice would be appreciated.
|
|
bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2009 - 12:59am PT
|
Just walk off. Watch for rattler's though.!11!!
I dunno.
|
|
Inner City
Trad climber
East Bay
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2009 - 01:12am PT
|
One could rappel a number of different routes on the East Wall itself. But it doesn't seem a thing to do. As BLuering said, just walk off. That "East Wall" route ranges far from right to left, not a rappel candidate.
|
|
Salamanizer
Trad climber
Vacaville Ca,
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2009 - 02:28am PT
|
People have began rappelling down Fandango recently after it's being retrobolted by an ignorant party. However it is much faster to just walk off than rappel, plus you'd have to drag another rope up there for that.
I watched a party of two rappel the route a few weeks ago, took them about an hour and a half tying up the route in the process which I was wanting to climb. I ended up climbing two routes on East Wall in that time, walking off from both. I was sure to give them a big F.U. as I walked by on my way to the West Wall.
The rap route does serve as a convenient way to the base in full winter conditions as the decent trail is buried in deep snow. But that's about it, rapping East Wall any other time is just lame.
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2009 - 02:51am PT
|
Sal- are you saying that bolts were added (retro) , or Re-bolted (replaced originals with new steel) on Fandango? I would hate to hear of bolts being added to any route at the leap.
OP- try and do 6 east wall routes with walk-offs, It's a big day but you'll feel better about yourself in the long run.
Descent should take you 10 -12 min from east wall,
|
|
mrtropy
Trad climber
Nor Cal
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2009 - 07:42am PT
|
What is the story on Fandango? One of favorite routes routes.
|
|
Trad
Trad climber
northern CA
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2009 - 10:24am PT
|
I posted something about the Fandango anchors under the Psychedelic Tree route beta a couple years ago, after I asked one of the FAs (George Conner) about it. I tried rapping from the top once with a 70 m rope and would not do it again, both because it IS faster to walk down plus it felt dangerous (rope just barely reached on the first [upper] rap).
There's a thread on Fandango here:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=24178
|
|
msiddens
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2009 - 10:33am PT
|
I rapped it a few times......only a total n**b would take that long. One 70m makes it in two raps. Bolts are hidden under the lip (scary) and then one rap down.
Still though, its not that much quicker AND, its loose at the top. On a crowded weekend it might not be the most polite thing to do. Hardly worthy of an f-u though....sheesh.
|
|
kev
climber
CA
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2009 - 12:05pm PT
|
Sal,
Whats the retro bolt story. Is some chopping in order?
Mucci, hahah 10-12 minutes yeah right you've forgot to figure in your safety meetings and my beer breaks...
kev
|
|
Mr_T
Trad climber
The 7th Pin Scar on Serentiy Crack
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2009 - 02:29pm PT
|
Rap routes at the Leap - now there's an accident waiting to happen.
|
|
mooser
Trad climber
seattle
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2009 - 02:32pm PT
|
The walk-off is cake. That'd definitely be my first choice. Of course that doesn't exactly answer your question.
|
|
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2009 - 03:11pm PT
|
The word that sprung into my mind upon seeing this thread title: "clusterf$@K".
|
|
Chris2
Trad climber
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2009 - 03:25pm PT
|
"Climbup" I challenge you to rapping the east wall vs. walking off. You name the price, I will be down before you.
|
|
the Fet
Supercaliyosemistic climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2009 - 03:39pm PT
|
I like rap routes where appropriate (e.g. Royal Arches), but a rap route on the East Wall would just be lame in so many ways.
|
|
Climbup
Trad climber
Roseville, CA
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 10, 2009 - 03:43pm PT
|
I see the point and I agree. It really is safer and best to just walk off. Thanks for the wisdom!
|
|
Salamanizer
Trad climber
Vacaville Ca,
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2009 - 08:10pm PT
|
mucci Yes, Fandango has been "Retro" bolted not re-bolted. Anchors with rappel rings were added to the first pitch where there were none before. Plenty of natural pro in the area for the hundreds of climbers who passed on through before they showed up. Anchors with rappel rings were also added to the top where good gear and three solid pins made up the original anchor.
These anchors showed up about two years ago. I eyeballed someone jumaring up a fixed line on Fandango one day. Curious I tried to see what he was up too. I could see he was doing some cleaning around the upper pitch and hoorah for that. Later that evening a friend told me he also ran into the guy and had a short conversation with him. The guy told him he was cleaning a new route, that it was about .10c, all Trad (apparently that doesn't mean sh#t these days) and called Eagles Way or some such B.S. My friend asked "isn't that where Fandango goes up?" and the guy said no, Fandango is further left. The next weekend I went to find this new route and observed that Fandango had been cleaned out (really clean) and new shiny bolted anchors had appeared.
Needless to say, I LMAO that this guy spent all that time cleaning the thing out and then gave it a grade of .10c. The thing is textbook 5.9, both pitches.
Sounds to me like it was just a mistake on behalf of an ignorant would be first ascentionest. Can't imagine someone adding anchors on purpose to an old route on East Wall.
Being kinda pissed about the anchors, I asked George Connor (who did the F.A.) a few days later if he knew anything about them. Of course he didn't, but being the incredibly nice and humble person he is said that even though it's a shame someone added bolts next to solid natural anchors, the damage has been done and that there is no point in removing them. Maybe more people will climb the route now that it's clean and the anchors are convenient. I agreed.
Fandango is an excellent route, two pitches, rated 5.9 and safe.
It used to be an exercise in botany where you had to climb with your nut tool in your teeth so you could excavate fingerlocks and gear placements. Now it's relatively clean and a great way to escape the East Wall circus. If you haven't been on it, you're missing out.
|
|
Mr_T
Trad climber
The 7th Pin Scar on Serentiy Crack
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2009 - 08:22pm PT
|
On Psychedelic last year, I did see some shiny new bolts to the right of Fandango. These looked looked like the last pitch of a new sport line. I saw these from the top of the last pitch of Psychedelic Tree. The new shiny bolts were on the face to the right of the break (right of where the DanO ice fall forms). Looked like a cool line, but I wasn't sure how the loose sections worked. It's possible this joker added bolts to Fandango in addition to the Leap's "Wings of Steel".
|
|
mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2009 - 08:38pm PT
|
Thanks Sal it's been 4 years since I did that route, Another all natural passage. New routing at the leap is very difficult. 5 guidebooks and alot of local routes never reported make for some difficult homework. I have put up many routes up there and was lucky enough to have few guys in the know to ask about certain areas.
The damage has been done, but what if it was on the P tree and not the classic/obscure fandango?
the crowbar and chisel are now coming on every trip.
|
|
Mr_T
Trad climber
The 7th Pin Scar on Serentiy Crack
|
|
|
Jun 10, 2009 - 08:57pm PT
|
I just re-read these posts. It is possible this joker added fixed anchors so he could jumar Fandango (wtf!). That would assist him with the rap and clean of the new Wings of Steel to the right of Fandango.
|
|
Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Muir Woods National Monument, Mill Valley, Ca
|
|
|
Jun 11, 2009 - 10:42pm PT
|
Chris2
"Climbup" I challenge you to rapping the east wall vs. walking off. You name the price, I will be down before you.
First of all, rapping the East Wall is so absurd I'm having a hard time believing this thread is knott a (bad) joke.
Secondly, I'll raise Chris2's challenge: From any route on the East Wall, I'll knott only easily
beat you with time to spare, I'll run back up to the top of the route and back to the base
and still leave you in the dust (and I'm old and out of shape). Thanks for the laugh!
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!