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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 16, 2008 - 01:43am PT
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Anyone have beta on the Quarter Dome routes in Tenaya Canyon?
North Face FA 1962 Yvon Chouinard & Tom Frost FFA 1980 (Pegasus) Max Jones & Mark Hudon
Route of All Evil FA 1971 Matt Donohue & Cliff Jennings
West Quarter Dome
North Face FA 1969 Phil Koch & Dave Goeddel
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 16, 2008 - 01:55am PT
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Mimi
climber
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Jan 16, 2008 - 01:58am PT
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There's been substantial rockfall there that's dramatically altered the climbing. Werner would know the details.
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 16, 2008 - 02:05am PT
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Mimi that happened many years ago. I can't off hand remember the story behind the rockfall and what it did to the route.
My photo above is from last summer. It was taken from the helicopter on the way to half dome.
P.S. Clint probably knows .....
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Mimi
climber
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Jan 16, 2008 - 02:08am PT
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I know, but didn't the Route of All Evil fall off or part of it fall off?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jan 16, 2008 - 03:49am PT
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Ed,
In June 2006, I hiked to the top of Pegasus and rapped down to the base of the 5.12 finger crack, replacing a few bolts and checking out the pitches. Here's my trip report, which includes a link to Bill Wright's report of climbing the route in 1994.
http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/rep/066yqdom.htm
I drew a properly scaled topo (matching the Meyers topo to a photo), but I haven't inked and scanned it yet.
I have heard Pegasus can be approached by hiking to the saddle between West Quarter Dome and Half Dome, and going down a gully with maybe a few rappels. Otherwise you have to cross the river which implies waiting until the fall.
There was a rockfall in July 1997 from the route right of Pegasus (Route of All Evil) which left some loose rock on the first 4 pitches of Pegasus. Above that Pegasus should be fine.
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
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Jan 16, 2008 - 01:38pm PT
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I did the EQD-NF (5.9,A2) many a year ago. Nice route: fun, no loose stuff, easy route finding, a smattering of ledges, no great bivi spot (as I recall) and fantastic views (as is the case of every wall!)
We did not come up from Tenaya Canyon; instead we trekked around the backside of Half Dome and then dropped down the gully. The descent was a bit shaky in spots but far better than dragging the pig up Tenaya and then the slabs.
There was some rockfall on West 1/4 dome and I guess also on ROAE but nothing unusual for exfoliating domes.
Final comment... why am I saying this!!!??? There is a LOT to be done up there. (Kicking myself!)
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monolith
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Jan 16, 2008 - 01:57pm PT
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No great bivy ledges on the North Face route, but there is a cool bivy site at the start. It's up on the platform below the first pitch. Short easy 4th/5th section to get there, which you need to do anyway.
One needs to pay a little more attention to find the 9th pitch. (first pitch after the traverse). There are several choices. All I can advise is don't take the first one (not very helpful,I know).
That side of the canyon is cold in the spring. Watching the sun hit Watkins long before it hit us was torture.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jan 16, 2008 - 03:18pm PT
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There is also a route left of Pegasus, which is not listed in the Meyers guide:
Nashville Skyline (V 5.8 A3) Charlie Porter and Gary Bocarde Jul-72
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2008 - 01:33am PT
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thanks all great info on this area!
I wondered because I was waiting for light on a little hike last weekend and sort of got a great 'cross the Valley view:
for a few hours... the light was fantastic!
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lunchbox
Trad climber
santa cruz, ca
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Jan 17, 2008 - 12:47pm PT
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Here's a few recent images of Quarter Dome taken from Mt. Watkins in May 2007
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Jan 18, 2008 - 03:41am PT
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Nice Pix! I've mentioned this before but Urmi & I put up a cool 5 pitch route right of the North Face of West Quarter Dome. " Quarterpounder " 5.11 bobs and weaves up long flake systems starting 3/4 down the west approach gully. Supercool bivy in the sky on a hanging rib jutting out in Tenaya Canyon just west of NQD. Water is available @ a spring on the trail 1/4 mile up the CloudsRest Trail. No bolts!!
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Trusty Rusty
Social climber
Tahoe area
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Jan 18, 2008 - 03:49am PT
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Glacier Point Doux.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jan 18, 2008 - 03:59am PT
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Here are a couple of crops/reductions of Watkins from Quarter Dome (sorry the light is not very good on the South Face):
and Yasoo Dome and The Chief further right.
[Edit: Yasoo Dome is the dome right of the right brushy gully. There is a 6 pitch route in the obvious left-facing, right-trending corner system. The Chief is aldude's 15 pitch route further right, around the corner on the big face.
Golden Dawn is an 8 pitch route left of the left gully. Escape From Freedom is an 18 pitch route on the big face further left.]
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Trusty Rusty
Social climber
Tahoe area
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Jan 18, 2008 - 04:07am PT
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Ed-
You got any beta on Liberty Bell Mntn?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 18, 2008 - 11:14am PT
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The North Face route on East Quarter Domes was "the most fun that I've ever had on a first ascent" according to Tom Frost. I was over on the Apron when the 97 rockfall sent a towering cloud of rock dust which dwarfed the formations themselves. It was a strange day. I was heading over to the Calf to run a pendulum cleaning clinic and came around the corner to the moonscape from the GPA rockfall. The Calf was missing about a third of its bolts from neglect or rockfall shear. The next day I went looking for Werner's Crack and only found the upper half of the route!
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Jan 18, 2008 - 12:11pm PT
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Hey guys, great pix.
Damn I miss Yosemite.
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Jan 19, 2008 - 05:09pm PT
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Clint, master of climbing data,
Know the origin of these dome names - Yasoo and the Chief? Is Yasoo the thin buttress thingy, or the more dome-like formation? Or is that one (just right of center), the Chief?
Beautiful country!
Nate
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega, CA
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Jan 19, 2008 - 05:28pm PT
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Cool thread. Here's a shot from Watkins, looking over to .5 Dome. I took some pix of .25 domes too and will have to pull them out. This was taken after working all day on Escape from Freedom with T. Addison in '00.
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