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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jan 24, 2008 - 04:42pm PT
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Nate, see my edited caption for more accurate formation info. The Chief is aldude's route, on Yasoo Dome. I don't know the original of the name Yasoo. Perhaps aldude will explain about The Chief, although I know that across on Cloud's Rest is a structure which looks like "Chief Tenaya frowning"!
Here is an approximate photo overlay of Pegasus [green line] and Route of All Evil [red line], using one of lunchbox's photos.
The corner systems and bivvy ledge in the lower half also show up well on Ed's winter photo.
[Edit: Ed, see red line in photos above]
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Jan 24, 2008 - 09:23pm PT
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Thanks CC!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2008 - 11:23pm PT
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is the Route of All Evil the corner to the right of the one marked by Clint?
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Mimi
climber
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Jan 24, 2008 - 11:53pm PT
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Yes, Ed, the 1996 Reid guide shows it heading up the big corner 200' to the right. You'll like the original description. And check out the other routes done that season.
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega, CA
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Feb 29, 2008 - 01:28am PT
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Bump.
July 2000
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Feb 29, 2008 - 02:23am PT
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is there a name for the shape of the rock scar yet?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 29, 2008 - 02:33am PT
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thanks Jerry... you've inflamed my imagination
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Feb 29, 2008 - 02:49am PT
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Nice, Jerry - thanks for sharing that.
I think it shows the approach from the notch by West Quarter Dome pretty clearly!
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Buggs
Trad climber
Eagle River, Alaska
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Feb 29, 2008 - 02:56am PT
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Jerry,
Thanks for bringing back some memories. Climbed the Reggae route on Mt Watkins in 1992 with the Cozmic Banditos. I remember that view of Half Dome and maybe even that gnarly tree!
Buggs
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survival
Big Wall climber
arlington, va
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Feb 29, 2008 - 07:13am PT
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Jerry,
That is one of the coolest mountain bonsai photos I have ever seen!! I work Bonsai myself, so big ones like that are a huge love of mine.
Great shots of Watkins to whoever posted. Was that you?
I'm one of the Banditos that climbed it with Buggs. What a great trip that was.
Bruce
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 29, 2008 - 10:55am PT
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Rusty -
no info on Liberty Bell Mtn. and I must admit that I'm not so sure where that is... not showing up in any of my Sierra guide books or on the quadrangle I thought it might....
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega, CA
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Feb 29, 2008 - 01:23pm PT
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Hey Bruce,
The Watkins Shots were Clints, but yeah, that bonsai was pretty awesome. While walking back to the car through the woods that evening, a twisted face appeared on the ground in my headlamp beam. Pretty scary. I packed it out. Probably the coolest nature nugget I've found yet. (sorry for drifting OT).
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
climber
O a k t o w n
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Feb 23, 2009 - 08:46pm PT
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Sick pics . . . Lunchbox's double stacked route photo(s) in particular .
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Thorgon
Big Wall climber
Sedro Woolley, WA
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Feb 23, 2009 - 09:42pm PT
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Yes, lunchbox's stack is a double-decker
full of granite! Geez, that is
a lot of granite!
I am drooling,
Thor
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Feb 24, 2009 - 02:42am PT
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Boche and I went up on Quarter Dome in the fall of 1971.
Had just finished our first river trip, 21 days on the Grand Canyon with a wild and crazy group of people. All the gear came from a group of old time S. Cal Sierra Clubers, Frank Hoover and his mates. Don Wilson had been part of this group as they pioneered river running in the 60s. Old, old World War ll amphibious boats that were rotten and in constant need of repair. Good thing we had an ample supply of drugs and beer. Half the trip was spent sewing and gluing. After our trip, the Park Service proposed a new regulation about river running and nakedness. Appears they had some complaints, flew over, shot some photos and started a dossier on such antics. The funny part was we knew nothing about river running, but managed to teach ourselves enough to survive and have a roaring good time.
I always wanted to have Fairview Dome in my backyard, but after my first visit up Tenaya Canyon I decided Quarter Dome was more to my liking.
Boche
moi
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Fuzzywuzzy
climber
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Guido - there seems to be a family resemblance - Pops!
The gully looks a bit adventurous - you will miss all the "Prize Winning" Blue Ribbon manzanita (swear it is 10' tall in spots) if you choose the gully. Those approach slabs are usually quite wet into early summer.
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john bald
climber
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Hi Ed,
There is a nice bivy ledge on it about 2/3rds height. Spent a night there with Clark Jacobs and Terry Goodykuntz back in '73. Clark has best B&W photos of the climb....You'll have to get him to digitize them though........John
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Wow, Great Thread ED!
All of that perfect Tenaya rock, only for those who seek out Adventure.
I just spoke with Steve Bosque, He told me a story when he and Corbett started up what they thought was a new line, later after 3 or 4 pitches they started running into Pins and scars. Dissapointed they discussed their options, then they heard screaming from down in the caynon. Steve said that the screams were pretty far up the caynon.
They decided to descend to go find the guy who wound up with a busted leg or something. Quite a big hike.
I mentioned this thread and asked where they were on the wall. Left of the North face. I said "Nashville Skyline" and he said "Oh yeah that would make sense, we never saw a topo for that route. So there is a 4 pitch variation to NS.
Just thought that was cool, he said the climbing was nice with thin cracks.
He also said they were pretty bummed to run into those pins.
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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I remember that Alan Bartlett and I did the second ascent of Route of all Evil many years ago..........mid 70s? Anyhow, we thought then that it would go completely free.
Sort of amazing that it hasn't happened. Surprised at the recent rock fall.
Jack
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