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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 16, 2008 - 01:43am PT
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Anyone have beta on the Quarter Dome routes in Tenaya Canyon?
North Face FA 1962 Yvon Chouinard & Tom Frost FFA 1980 (Pegasus) Max Jones & Mark Hudon
Route of All Evil FA 1971 Matt Donohue & Cliff Jennings
West Quarter Dome
North Face FA 1969 Phil Koch & Dave Goeddel
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 16, 2008 - 01:55am PT
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Mimi
climber
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Jan 16, 2008 - 01:58am PT
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There's been substantial rockfall there that's dramatically altered the climbing. Werner would know the details.
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WBraun
climber
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Jan 16, 2008 - 02:05am PT
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Mimi that happened many years ago. I can't off hand remember the story behind the rockfall and what it did to the route.
My photo above is from last summer. It was taken from the helicopter on the way to half dome.
P.S. Clint probably knows .....
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Mimi
climber
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Jan 16, 2008 - 02:08am PT
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I know, but didn't the Route of All Evil fall off or part of it fall off?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jan 16, 2008 - 03:49am PT
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Ed,
In June 2006, I hiked to the top of Pegasus and rapped down to the base of the 5.12 finger crack, replacing a few bolts and checking out the pitches. Here's my trip report, which includes a link to Bill Wright's report of climbing the route in 1994.
http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/rep/066yqdom.htm
I drew a properly scaled topo (matching the Meyers topo to a photo), but I haven't inked and scanned it yet.
I have heard Pegasus can be approached by hiking to the saddle between West Quarter Dome and Half Dome, and going down a gully with maybe a few rappels. Otherwise you have to cross the river which implies waiting until the fall.
There was a rockfall in July 1997 from the route right of Pegasus (Route of All Evil) which left some loose rock on the first 4 pitches of Pegasus. Above that Pegasus should be fine.
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
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Jan 16, 2008 - 01:38pm PT
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I did the EQD-NF (5.9,A2) many a year ago. Nice route: fun, no loose stuff, easy route finding, a smattering of ledges, no great bivi spot (as I recall) and fantastic views (as is the case of every wall!)
We did not come up from Tenaya Canyon; instead we trekked around the backside of Half Dome and then dropped down the gully. The descent was a bit shaky in spots but far better than dragging the pig up Tenaya and then the slabs.
There was some rockfall on West 1/4 dome and I guess also on ROAE but nothing unusual for exfoliating domes.
Final comment... why am I saying this!!!??? There is a LOT to be done up there. (Kicking myself!)
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monolith
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Jan 16, 2008 - 01:57pm PT
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No great bivy ledges on the North Face route, but there is a cool bivy site at the start. It's up on the platform below the first pitch. Short easy 4th/5th section to get there, which you need to do anyway.
One needs to pay a little more attention to find the 9th pitch. (first pitch after the traverse). There are several choices. All I can advise is don't take the first one (not very helpful,I know).
That side of the canyon is cold in the spring. Watching the sun hit Watkins long before it hit us was torture.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jan 16, 2008 - 03:18pm PT
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There is also a route left of Pegasus, which is not listed in the Meyers guide:
Nashville Skyline (V 5.8 A3) Charlie Porter and Gary Bocarde Jul-72
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2008 - 01:33am PT
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thanks all great info on this area!
I wondered because I was waiting for light on a little hike last weekend and sort of got a great 'cross the Valley view:
for a few hours... the light was fantastic!
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lunchbox
Trad climber
santa cruz, ca
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Jan 17, 2008 - 12:47pm PT
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Here's a few recent images of Quarter Dome taken from Mt. Watkins in May 2007
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Jan 18, 2008 - 03:41am PT
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Nice Pix! I've mentioned this before but Urmi & I put up a cool 5 pitch route right of the North Face of West Quarter Dome. " Quarterpounder " 5.11 bobs and weaves up long flake systems starting 3/4 down the west approach gully. Supercool bivy in the sky on a hanging rib jutting out in Tenaya Canyon just west of NQD. Water is available @ a spring on the trail 1/4 mile up the CloudsRest Trail. No bolts!!
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Trusty Rusty
Social climber
Tahoe area
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Jan 18, 2008 - 03:49am PT
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Glacier Point Doux.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jan 18, 2008 - 03:59am PT
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Here are a couple of crops/reductions of Watkins from Quarter Dome (sorry the light is not very good on the South Face):
and Yasoo Dome and The Chief further right.
[Edit: Yasoo Dome is the dome right of the right brushy gully. There is a 6 pitch route in the obvious left-facing, right-trending corner system. The Chief is aldude's 15 pitch route further right, around the corner on the big face.
Golden Dawn is an 8 pitch route left of the left gully. Escape From Freedom is an 18 pitch route on the big face further left.]
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Trusty Rusty
Social climber
Tahoe area
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Jan 18, 2008 - 04:07am PT
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Ed-
You got any beta on Liberty Bell Mntn?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 18, 2008 - 11:14am PT
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The North Face route on East Quarter Domes was "the most fun that I've ever had on a first ascent" according to Tom Frost. I was over on the Apron when the 97 rockfall sent a towering cloud of rock dust which dwarfed the formations themselves. It was a strange day. I was heading over to the Calf to run a pendulum cleaning clinic and came around the corner to the moonscape from the GPA rockfall. The Calf was missing about a third of its bolts from neglect or rockfall shear. The next day I went looking for Werner's Crack and only found the upper half of the route!
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Jan 18, 2008 - 12:11pm PT
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Hey guys, great pix.
Damn I miss Yosemite.
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Jan 19, 2008 - 05:09pm PT
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Clint, master of climbing data,
Know the origin of these dome names - Yasoo and the Chief? Is Yasoo the thin buttress thingy, or the more dome-like formation? Or is that one (just right of center), the Chief?
Beautiful country!
Nate
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega, CA
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Jan 19, 2008 - 05:28pm PT
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Cool thread. Here's a shot from Watkins, looking over to .5 Dome. I took some pix of .25 domes too and will have to pull them out. This was taken after working all day on Escape from Freedom with T. Addison in '00.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jan 24, 2008 - 04:42pm PT
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Nate, see my edited caption for more accurate formation info. The Chief is aldude's route, on Yasoo Dome. I don't know the original of the name Yasoo. Perhaps aldude will explain about The Chief, although I know that across on Cloud's Rest is a structure which looks like "Chief Tenaya frowning"!
Here is an approximate photo overlay of Pegasus [green line] and Route of All Evil [red line], using one of lunchbox's photos.
The corner systems and bivvy ledge in the lower half also show up well on Ed's winter photo.
[Edit: Ed, see red line in photos above]
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Jan 24, 2008 - 09:23pm PT
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Thanks CC!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2008 - 11:23pm PT
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is the Route of All Evil the corner to the right of the one marked by Clint?
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Mimi
climber
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Jan 24, 2008 - 11:53pm PT
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Yes, Ed, the 1996 Reid guide shows it heading up the big corner 200' to the right. You'll like the original description. And check out the other routes done that season.
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega, CA
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Feb 29, 2008 - 01:28am PT
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Bump.
July 2000
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Feb 29, 2008 - 02:23am PT
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is there a name for the shape of the rock scar yet?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 29, 2008 - 02:33am PT
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thanks Jerry... you've inflamed my imagination
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Feb 29, 2008 - 02:49am PT
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Nice, Jerry - thanks for sharing that.
I think it shows the approach from the notch by West Quarter Dome pretty clearly!
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Buggs
Trad climber
Eagle River, Alaska
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Feb 29, 2008 - 02:56am PT
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Jerry,
Thanks for bringing back some memories. Climbed the Reggae route on Mt Watkins in 1992 with the Cozmic Banditos. I remember that view of Half Dome and maybe even that gnarly tree!
Buggs
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survival
Big Wall climber
arlington, va
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Feb 29, 2008 - 07:13am PT
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Jerry,
That is one of the coolest mountain bonsai photos I have ever seen!! I work Bonsai myself, so big ones like that are a huge love of mine.
Great shots of Watkins to whoever posted. Was that you?
I'm one of the Banditos that climbed it with Buggs. What a great trip that was.
Bruce
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 29, 2008 - 10:55am PT
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Rusty -
no info on Liberty Bell Mtn. and I must admit that I'm not so sure where that is... not showing up in any of my Sierra guide books or on the quadrangle I thought it might....
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega, CA
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Feb 29, 2008 - 01:23pm PT
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Hey Bruce,
The Watkins Shots were Clints, but yeah, that bonsai was pretty awesome. While walking back to the car through the woods that evening, a twisted face appeared on the ground in my headlamp beam. Pretty scary. I packed it out. Probably the coolest nature nugget I've found yet. (sorry for drifting OT).
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
climber
O a k t o w n
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Feb 23, 2009 - 08:46pm PT
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Sick pics . . . Lunchbox's double stacked route photo(s) in particular .
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Thorgon
Big Wall climber
Sedro Woolley, WA
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Feb 23, 2009 - 09:42pm PT
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Yes, lunchbox's stack is a double-decker
full of granite! Geez, that is
a lot of granite!
I am drooling,
Thor
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Feb 24, 2009 - 02:42am PT
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Boche and I went up on Quarter Dome in the fall of 1971.
Had just finished our first river trip, 21 days on the Grand Canyon with a wild and crazy group of people. All the gear came from a group of old time S. Cal Sierra Clubers, Frank Hoover and his mates. Don Wilson had been part of this group as they pioneered river running in the 60s. Old, old World War ll amphibious boats that were rotten and in constant need of repair. Good thing we had an ample supply of drugs and beer. Half the trip was spent sewing and gluing. After our trip, the Park Service proposed a new regulation about river running and nakedness. Appears they had some complaints, flew over, shot some photos and started a dossier on such antics. The funny part was we knew nothing about river running, but managed to teach ourselves enough to survive and have a roaring good time.
I always wanted to have Fairview Dome in my backyard, but after my first visit up Tenaya Canyon I decided Quarter Dome was more to my liking.
Boche
moi
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Fuzzywuzzy
climber
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Guido - there seems to be a family resemblance - Pops!
The gully looks a bit adventurous - you will miss all the "Prize Winning" Blue Ribbon manzanita (swear it is 10' tall in spots) if you choose the gully. Those approach slabs are usually quite wet into early summer.
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john bald
climber
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Hi Ed,
There is a nice bivy ledge on it about 2/3rds height. Spent a night there with Clark Jacobs and Terry Goodykuntz back in '73. Clark has best B&W photos of the climb....You'll have to get him to digitize them though........John
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Wow, Great Thread ED!
All of that perfect Tenaya rock, only for those who seek out Adventure.
I just spoke with Steve Bosque, He told me a story when he and Corbett started up what they thought was a new line, later after 3 or 4 pitches they started running into Pins and scars. Dissapointed they discussed their options, then they heard screaming from down in the caynon. Steve said that the screams were pretty far up the caynon.
They decided to descend to go find the guy who wound up with a busted leg or something. Quite a big hike.
I mentioned this thread and asked where they were on the wall. Left of the North face. I said "Nashville Skyline" and he said "Oh yeah that would make sense, we never saw a topo for that route. So there is a 4 pitch variation to NS.
Just thought that was cool, he said the climbing was nice with thin cracks.
He also said they were pretty bummed to run into those pins.
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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I remember that Alan Bartlett and I did the second ascent of Route of all Evil many years ago..........mid 70s? Anyhow, we thought then that it would go completely free.
Sort of amazing that it hasn't happened. Surprised at the recent rock fall.
Jack
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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I'm pretty sure there is no Yasoo Dome thread, though there should be, but has anyone here done that 5.9 on Yasoo?
I don't think I'm up for the chief, but it sure would be fun to do something back there.
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R.B.
Trad climber
AZ-WA
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From the North
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