NEWS FLASH! my Acopa JB's kick ass!

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bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Sep 6, 2007 - 04:43pm PT
Doh! I know you were stoked on getting those. Would you half, or whole size bigger?

You still have your Spires for this weekend though, right?
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Sep 6, 2007 - 04:59pm PT
I have a pair of the Aurora hightops, and I really like them. They fit my narrow feet very well, and are a good all round shoe.

I normally wear street size 9.5, or typically 41 - 42 European. Most of the rock shoes I've ever had have been close to my street shoe size. I tried the Auroras in 10, 10.5 and 11, and ended up with the 11s. I compared the length of the Aurora 11s to my Boreal Ballets, and they're almost the same. The Ballets are nominally English size 8.5, = North American 9.5 = European 42.

Plus Acopa gives great service!
G_Gnome

Sport climber
Everywhere, man...
Sep 6, 2007 - 06:57pm PT
I just can't wear my JBs!

That heel cup is just too aggressively cut in and I have other shoes that work and I am not willing to deal with that much pain in order to break them in. I am going to try cutting some rubber on the heel and see if I can't get them somewhat comfortable. If not, then they will get tossed to someone else. I would like to get them working because sooner or later I am going to run out of Newtons, but unless they loosen up a LOT, they are not going to get climbed in by me.

Sorry John, but this needs to improve in future versions. Even Waugh won't wear them and he has no pain sensors.
jbaker

Trad climber
Redwood City, CA
Sep 17, 2007 - 12:19am PT
What's the best way to contact Acopa for sizing/model help? Their website doesn't have any contact information.
bachar

Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Sep 17, 2007 - 12:43am PT
info@acopausa.com

acopausa dot com /acopa.jsp?navigation=27

You can always email me as well...

Thanks for the compliments folks!

See ya' at the crags! -jb
veebee

Trad climber
ca
Sep 17, 2007 - 02:26pm PT
Beware! I had a miserable time with mine. The first pair blew a hole the size of a dime the first time I wore them - in the gym on a offwidth. Luckily for me, the customer service was excellent, and they exchanged the pair for a new one, no fuss. On my 2nd pair the fit was (although technically a good fit) so uncomfortable outdoors that I could only make it about 3 feet off the ground before I came down howling. They've been an absolute disaster for me- but I can't say enough about the excellent customer support.
nate

Trad climber
virginia
Sep 18, 2007 - 01:47pm PT
just got mine and they are sweet. very supportive and sturdy feeling. I have a size twelve street shoe and got 12.5 so they would not be bone crushing. I bouldered at flagstaff mountain without a pad all afternoon and they were very confidence inspiring on dicey feet - supportive for my jingus toe, sticky, and comfortable. I think the main problem would be getting them too small they are a substantial shoe and don't need to be skin tight to climb well.
scuffy b

climber
The deck above the 5
Sep 18, 2007 - 01:55pm PT
Are they the same shape as the Aztec? Or maybe the Aurora?
I've tried on the Aztec, in the right size, and I can tell that
they are just a bit too wide in the forefoot for me.

If the JB is the shape of the Aztec, is there any thought of a
high top, sturdy shoe for narrower feet?

Brian

climber
Cali
Sep 18, 2007 - 01:57pm PT
Well, I was gonna start a new thread, but I'll see if I get some answers here.

On Sunday I tried on some Specters at Real Cheap in Ventura (the closest place to me in LA, and I was on my was to SB for a wedding). First impression is that they are really nice shoes. However, I've got some sizing questions for John and some general shoe questions for everyone.

(1) I wear an 8.5 or 9 street shoe. The size 9 Specters were pretty tight, tighter than I generally buy climbing shoes. The size 9.5 were a bit too loose to feel solid. I usually go for a sock-like fit--toes right to the end and tight but not buckled. So, the big question is, can I expect a bit of stretch in the Specters.

(2) Before everyone jumps in, my own personal experience (20+ years of climbing) is that shoes never really stretch that much. Flimsy slippers eventually stretch a bit, but more substantial shoes don't seem to stretch at all. In fact, it is hard to see how they could. If that rubber rand is worth its weight, it seems like it would keep the shoe leather from really expanding. In any case, as I said, I've almost never really stretched shoes out in a significant way.

That being said, I'm interested in input from you all.

Maybe my shoes have not been stretching because I don't buy them that tight?

Maybe I'm not drinking enough beer?

Maybe I'm just not climbing enough and should stop typing and whining and start climbing, whatever the shoes feel like?

Seriously though, any thoughts on those Specters? I'd like to make a decision soon...

Brian
nick d

Trad climber
nm
Oct 2, 2007 - 09:05pm PT
I just wanted to compliment the Acopa staff, specifically Lisa, on the excellent customer service. I have been working with them on getting the right size pair and am very pleased with the interactions. Unfortunately for me I have a foot in a cast so I can't get my JB's out right away, but they look and feel great! Thanks again for the outstanding service!

Michael
FeelioBabar

climber
Sneaking up behind you...
Oct 2, 2007 - 09:39pm PT
Three Cheers for Lisa!

She has got to be the most patient woman EVER!

After a send and resend...just got a pair of Chameleons and some Auroras for the wife!

Kick ass shoes...and I love that they don't have all the fancy schmancy bullshite...

just leather, and damn sticky rubber!

Acopa for Life!

the museum

Trad climber
Rapid City, SD
Oct 2, 2007 - 09:44pm PT
I got mine back from the re-sole shop already- they must be ok- apparently I wear them all the time.
nutjob

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Dec 2, 2007 - 10:07pm PT
I want to buy a pair of Acopa JBs, and I'm a bit wary on sizing...

I prefer comfort and all-day wearing type fit, and I always wear cotton gym socks inside them. I stay away from down-turned or curled toes.

Street shoes I usually go 10.5 or 11. From feedback here it looks like Acopa JB size 12 is my ticket... anywhere in SF Bay Area I can actually try them on to avoid several shipping exchanges?

Planet Granite sunnyvale doesn't keep them in stock, I don't want to special order them.
msiddens

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
May 17, 2008 - 09:39pm PT
Sunrise Mountaineering in Livermore OR Marmot in Berkley. Otherwise, head east to Mammoth or Bishop.
Lynne Leichtfuss

Social climber
valley center, ca
May 18, 2008 - 12:05am PT
Just wanted to add that I was recently looking for a shoe and the La Sportiva Mythos was recommended to me. Checked around and learned that the Acopa Aztec is supposed to be similar to the Mythos and said by some to be a better fit, more precise, great leather and toe point and more comfortable. lrl

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
May 18, 2008 - 12:38am PT
The Aztecs are a great shoe... I wore out my last pair of Mythos in 3 months, my Aztecs lasted a couple of years, currently they are my gym shoe. I'll get another pair sometime later in the summer.

My Cameleons are still kicking ass. Like those too but don't wear them as much.


JB UPDATE I do truly love these shoes, they are taking megahits on the offwidth circuit and what's turning up as a problem is the "aft foot" rand area. Basically, anywhere the outer rand overlaps something underneath (usually some other rand strip) it's tearing. So I don't think the rands on these shoes will last a season if I keep at the OW circuit as heavily as I am... maybe I need better technique.

Or maybe a slightly different formulation for the rubber that would make it a bit harder?

Or maybe look at how the rand is deployed on the shoe.

So far with these JBs:

Sacherer Cracker
Moby Dick Center
Ahab
Sacherer Cracker
The Slack Left
Generator Crack
Two Humps or One? (alternate third pitch of a new route... 5.10a OW)
Cream
Bad Ass Momma (gave it the old college try at least)

Hoping there will be something left for the various schemes which seem to be hatching for the summer...
...if Acopa wants a brutal product tester, that would be me...
Tui

Boulder climber
SD
May 18, 2008 - 12:51am PT
Be careful using the JB's for offwidths in my opinion. The rubber on the heel will peel off where the seams overlap. Mine came off in the first month. The rubber on the bottom of the shoes seems great. The issues seem to be where the rubber hits the leather or where it overlaps on the heel. On a better note my Spectres work great.
perswig

climber
May 18, 2008 - 07:00am PT
Ed H., can you possibly post pics of your JBs' problem areas? Considering a pair, don't do OWs much at all, but would like to see your wear pattern anyway. Thanks. Dale
(Oh, satisfied owner of Aztecs, which alternate with resoled Newtons as my 'nummer-one' shoe.)
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
May 18, 2008 - 09:08am PT
I'll get the pix, but not too soon...
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
May 29, 2008 - 02:02am PT
I really like these shoes... here's what I've done in them since I received them in March (about 15 pitches):

Sacherer Cracker
Moby Dick Center
Ahab
Sacherer Cracker
The Slack Left
Generator Crack
Two Humps or One? (alternate third pitch of a new route... 5.10a OW)
Cream
Bad Ass Momma (gave it the old college try at least)
Warm Up (5.9 OW somewhere in the Sierra)
Butt Side of Baby Gristle (5.9 OW sameplace in the Sierra)
Baby Gristle (5.10+ OW samesame in the Sierra)

Inside foot - I highlighted the warn spots on the rand with a circular region...

Outside foot -

Heel - also highlighted

some closeups - left shoe, heel, outside

 right shoe, heel

 left shoe, outside

toes

soles

tops

Messages 41 - 60 of total 88 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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