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M.Tea
Trad climber
Utah
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 5, 2007 - 02:04pm PT
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Just back from a week in the meadows knobbing it up in great temps...and the JB's did awesome!...from knobby smedges to polished dimes, thinsky to fists...they were all over that sh#t like a hobo on a ham sandwhich!
Thanks for making a stiffer shoe for us gorillas JB!
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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So, where in the BA can I try on a pair of JB's? it's the one they don't stock @ Marmot
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Knob Central
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For a trad shoe, I have found the heel cup to be a might bit aggressive. They will take some time to break in and will probably kill my heel much like Mariachers did back in the day. They are a weeeeee bit heavy too to my mind, maybe the sole is too thick.
As to whether they work really well and I can dime edge my way up 5.12, the court is in recess until August, unless I go climb at the Peanut Gallery this weekend.
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Howie
Trad climber
Calgary, Alberta
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Funnily enough I also climbed in my JB's for the first time last Monday.
I'm by no means a 5.12 climber, never was and never will be but they are truly an awesome shoe. They performed beyond my expectations and my only criticism is that they will take some breaking in to be comfortable. But that may be my fault buying a tad too tight.
The other Acopa shoe I have is the Spectra which for me is even better.
Sole thickness for me has not detracted from their sensitivity.
Over the many years (don't ask!) climbing I do not think that a shoe has impressed me more. Not just there ability but the construction just looks and feels bomber.
Howie.
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CF
climber
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The JB'S edge like crazy! Self portrait while TR'ing a TM testpiece. The shoes excel on this type of climbing.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Knob Central
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Canopy World? Or South Whiz?
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nick d
Trad climber
nm
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I'm curious how you sized yours MTea. Did you get to try them on or just guess? If you guessed, how do they feel compared with your guess? Also, how do you think the Acopa "buy your street shoe size" scheme works? I want to buy a pair, but I have no opportunity to try them on, so I am curious about your experience. Thanks in advance for your input!
Michael
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M.Tea
Trad climber
Utah
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 5, 2007 - 08:27pm PT
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I just did 1/2 size down from my street shoe in the JB (as recommended by JB), and it was perfect. Right ouuta the box these sum'bitches had corn! Edging, slabbing, cracks...bingo! Aztecs I went a full size down...they were tight but unlined and stretched just fine. Bottom line is JB and Lisa will make sure you are stoked.
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Salamanizer
Mountain climber
Vacaville Ca,
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I got a pair of JB about a month ago.
I emailed John directly to ask about sizeing being that I could not find a pair anywhere to try. He was super helpfull in suggesting a size (thanks John). I ordered 1/2 size smaller than my street shoe size and they fit like a glove. The first route I climbed in them (to test them out)was the NW face of Half Dome. They were comfortable all day and stuck to the rock like sh#t on a blanket.
I tell you, after getting these shoes, gobied ancles are a thing of the past. For me, there was no break in period. I could edge on a dime the first time I put them on and they preform really well on slab also.
Only complaint; the rubber is delaminating on both toes already. Might be an isolated case.....might not.
Love the shoe...
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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M. Tea - thanx much for the compliments and thank all you other Supertopians for suggesting we make a high top. I thought we might sell twenty pair a year or something but these babies are going through the roof!
G Gnome, stick with them, the heel breaks in quite well and they also get less stiff after about ten to fifteen climbing days. They are definitely on the stout side of things but will last a long time once you get them broken in (much like high tops of the old days).
Most people are buying one half size below their street shoe for a tight fit and many go for the same size and wear socks. Only a few go above their street shoe size. If you know your Aztec size then go up a half size for the same kind of feel/tightness level.
Thanks again and enjoy! JB
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M.Tea
Trad climber
Utah
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 6, 2007 - 12:35am PT
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yo JB, how about a low top style JB now! ;-)
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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Re. rubber delaminating on toes:
My Aztecs delaminated on the toes a few months after purchase. Kept climbing on them and found no difference in feel or performance. That was about 2.5 years ago, and I've never looked back. Still my best shoe, and when I get tired of resoling them I'll get another pair of the same.
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lemon_boy
climber
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i won a free pair of acopas at the HERA climb for life BBQ in boulder and these are the shoes i decided to try out. i climb a LOT of OW and my old high tops are about to die, so i am excited to try them out. i tried a bunch on to size them, and was surprised by the sizing. holy crap, size 11! man, i must be getting old if my feet are getting bigger again. most of my climbing shoes are size 9 or so, but with these ones i am getting them really comfy (but not too sloppy) for those long puking 'gasm chasms. can't wait!
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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The delamination may have been a bad glue batch since mine delaminated in the first two weeks (it was February and never got above 60 degrees so it wasn't the heat). I've been gluing them since but will have to break down and resole them this week. Great shoe-- good design. I might second the reservations on the heel. It seems to be mid-way between the more sculpted heel on the Spectra and the padded heel on the Aztec. Sometimes I miss the more sculpted heel, but not as often as I think it might be nice to have a more stable platform and a bit of eva or whatever that padding is in the Aztecs. I'd vote for one or the other on the next edition.
Actually did stacks of sport routes in the Dolomites in these and they performed amazingly well on the technical stuff.
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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CF - Meltdown? Skinwalker?
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maldaly
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Get over it you guys. Feet are overrated. Just shut up and climb.
Mal
PS, I wish I could use a pair of these. They look great.
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nick d
Trad climber
nm
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Since you put it that way Malcolm, I figured I better order a pair while I've still got feet! I don't know if you will remember me, but I worked at The Wilderness Centre here in Albuquerque from about 1980 till about 1990. I would often see you with Mark Wilford hawking your wares at the shop and trade shows. I kind of got out of the scene for a long while and never really heard what had happened to you until much later. How is your surviving foot? How does it feel in a rockshoe now? But more importantly, can you still party like a rock star? LOL!
Michael Smith
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Knob Central
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Ok, I wore these babies in Tuolumne last weekend. They hurt badly!!! That heel cup is too radical. And I think the uppers are too stiff and don't give at all. At the same time they will stand on just about anything. I did one of the 5.12s at the Peanut Gallery in them. I was really happy when about 2/3 of the way up my feet quit hurting so much. When I got to the ground and took them off I realized my feet had gone numb. Perfect!
So, if you want the ultimate edging boot, buy some. If you want an all day shoe, be very careful.
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mbb
climber
the slick
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CM, did you mean a JM masterpiece? Looks like whateverthatthingiscalledtotherightofelectricafrica
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Salamanizer
Mountain climber
Vacaville Ca,
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Ok, I need a revision of my original post.
I've had my JB's for about a month and just blew out the toes on both feet. The rubber delaminated to the point of decintigration.
I love the feel and performance of the shoe. I don't know about you guys, but I can't afford to buy a new pair of shoes every month. Now I'm completely hosed. I have to break down and buy a new pair of shoes.
What's Acopas guarantee policy? Because I'm feeling a little riped off right now.
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Howie
Trad climber
Calgary, Alberta
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See their web site under "Customer Service". That should answer your question.
Howie.
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maldaly
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Hey Michael Smith, I do remember. Where have you been? I've been here, glued to the ST for the last year. Before that I started and ran Trango ;-). What are you up to? To answer your Q's, my real foot is my bad foot. Damn thing hurts all the time, is cold when it's below 80 degrees and doesn't work like it should. I keep it because it gives me some balance and power, neither of which I have in my prosthetic foot.
Mal
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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g gnome-- they will break in it just takes a really long time. i had to get in a lot of mileage and also used an insert to help them comform to my feet. they also soften up a bit, so more comfort but less stiffness. if it was 1983 i suppose i'd buy one pair a 1/2 size smaller that i used only for dime edging testpieces. fortunately, it's not 1983 anymore.
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nick d
Trad climber
nm
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Hey Malcolm! Sorry to hear about your foot. I can relate on some level. I have had 13 (lucky!) surgeries on my left knee, it is very problematic. I can hammer pretty good with it for a while, but then its usually a multi-week, sometimes months, period before it recovers enough to hammer it some more. I will have to have it replaced with a prosthetic some day, but I am going to put that off as long as humanly possible. I'm sure you feel the same about your foot. No matter how bad it is, if you can endure it you just know its better in terms of function than any prosthetic could be. I have lived here in Albuquerque since I've last seen you, climbing in the Sandias and riding my bicycles. I ride more than climb these days because of my knee, but I still love climbing the most of any outdoor activity I have done. Thats a big part of getting hooked on the Supertopo scene, I think. I don't know if I would call it living vicariously, but its a way to participate in the climbing scene when my body is just not up to the real thing. I must be an optomist though, because I still buy climbing gear even when I know I won't be able to get out for the forseeable future. I've got a pair of JB's on the way even though my knee is grapefruit size and throbbing as we speak! I can't wait to try em out. Anyway, nice to talk to you, perhaps we can get out and climb something someday!
Michael
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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g gnome, when you say radical heel, what shape does your heel make?
do you normally fit into a Sportiva, e.g. Katana heel cup? Or do you normally fit e.g. a Boreal heel cup?
5.10 heel cup? (varies by shoe of course to some degree)
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Knob Central
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Jul 10, 2007 - 01:13pm PT
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Munge, my all around shoe is a FiveTen Newton and it fits perfectly. I think the rubber and the midsole are a little soft for really thin edging but they are a great shoe (just not really well made). I used to swear by Sportiva Tao's and Focus' but my feet keep getting wider the older I get and Sportiva keeps getting narrower and I can't really wear them anymore. At any rate, the heel cup on the JBs is shaped a lot like a pair of Madrock Mugens. In other words, it comes forward A LOT to slingshot your foot forward. I bought the JBs a half size larger than I otherwise would have because of the heel cup and am really glad I did. I did 2 short thin knob routes in them on Sunday and I was probably at the point where I would start getting a blister on my heels if I had done any more in them. I am going to try slitting the upper most piece of rubber back there and see if that relieves some of the pressure. I also think the leather in the upper is too stiff. It just doesn't give at all to shape to your foot so either your foot fits in them perfectly or your feet are going to hurt. They do edge like a bad boy though and that's what I need in a shoe!
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CA Dreamin'
climber
SLO
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Jul 13, 2007 - 10:45pm PT
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I like my Acopa JBs too. Here's why:
The heel cup is no where nearly as agressive as another brands high tops. Hence, my achilles don't kill me after a couple of pitches.
The toe is more aggressive than other high tops I've tried, making them great in finger cracks.
My feet fit them well, so they're amazing for all day comfort.
They're stiff, so they edge well and are supportive in cracks.
The photo isn't related to any of the above comments, but hey, it's a good shot of them.
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nick d
Trad climber
nm
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Jul 14, 2007 - 12:17am PT
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I just got my JBs today, but unfortunately I guessed way wrong on the size. The picture is a size 8 1/2 JB with a size 9 Adidas. I want them to be an all day, long route shoe that I can walk in some if I have to, which in the Sandias where I mostly climb is often necessary. As you can see by the photo the JB is about 2 inches shorter than my tennis shoe, and is, shall I say, a very performance oriented fit. I'm now thinking that I probably want a 9 1/2 instead. Any input on that from the JB owners out there? They look great, I can't wait to get em sized right and climb in them. Hope this is of help to anybody else who is just guessing at their size.
Michael
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justthemaid
climber
Los Angeles
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Jul 14, 2007 - 10:15am PT
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I love the JBs
They are the only shoes I can climb in (joint problems).
Salmanizer- I'm shocked you blew them out that quickly. I've been climbing 3 days a week in mine for months with no problems (and I'm a toe dragger). I did manage to need a resole in only one month but that was at J-tree. Quartz monzonite eats Acopa rubber for dinner. (5-10 rubber has lasted much longer).
Perhaps a.) You got a bum pair? or b.)Your technique is even worse than mine is?
NickD- I found the sizing to be totally weird. In the women's sizes I had to go a full size and a 1/2 LARGER than my street shoe.
JB- If you are reading this- your sizing is wacko.
The biggest pair of street shoes I own is a women's 8 1/2 I'm usually more of an 8. I have two pair of JB's One is a women's 9 1/2. The other is a women's 10. The 9 1/2's are almost too tight. I climb in the larger ones most of the time.
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C-dog
Trad climber
Bay Area
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I am also headed for the meadows & was admiring
bluering's Acopas on Saturday as he stuck very
well to "Pearls Before Swine" 10d, Aquarian Valley.
I once lead Needle & Spoon in a new pair of Fire Gazelles
(remember those?) only to encounter some crazy guy
soloing the Dike Route as I approached the belay. Upon
extolling the virtues of the fuschia lace up slippers to this
passerby, I was informed that he was the designer of the
very shoes I wore. (So Long ago)
I'd like to expedite an Acopa order today, and bluering
suggested I revive this thread.
So... I wear size twelve, and have been doing quite well
in my 5.10 Spires for a while. What I'd like to get is a more
sensitive face shoe, something that doesn't hurt too much,
mainly for 10cd 11ab stuff. Thinking Acopas...
Any ideas which Acopa model, which size? THANKS!
C-dog
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nate23
Trad climber
c-ville, virginia
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anyone know where i can get these around denver? I seem to have an arthiritc big toe at age 26 and these might be the ticket as support seems to help it quite a bit.
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Howie
Trad climber
Calgary, Alberta
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You think JB's are the best and they are good. But you should try some Spectre's, they are even better!
I have both pairs.
I'm not a top notch climber but these two boots are the best that I have worn and over the years i have worn a lot of different makes. They really have boosted my confidence.
Howie.
ed: I agree the sizing is a bit wacko but what isn't these days. I never buy anything until I tried it on.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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I'm also in the market for some "tuolumne" shoes -- knobs, those little half-moon edges and cracks. Loved my aces for this. Can any of you JB owners compare them to Aces? John? (I bought my Aces from you at the Gunks (the TMds gunks that is) and had resoled them at least 5 times.
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Durabone
climber
Santa Cruz Mountains
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Cool website:
acopausa dot com
Thanks for the Spectra beta Howie. These I'm
thinking to order, based on the "Shoe Sizing" page:
acopausa dot com /acopa.jsp?navigation=11
Woo-Hoo!
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C-dog
Trad climber
Bay Area
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I think I'll go spectre. Now if I can
just find someone to expedite me
a pair of size 12's today, that would
ROCK
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Howie
Trad climber
Calgary, Alberta
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No problem D.
Really do watch the sizing though. I'm in 10.5's and could possibly be an 11. At best my street shoe size is 9/9.5 US. Funnily enough the Spectre's are not as tight(length wise) as the JB's but both are showing signs of becoming more comfortable but it will still be awhile. At present they are like a second skin. I'll put up with some pain just to climb with more confidence. On long routes I will for the time being carry another shoe for comfort on the easier sections.
Get the sizing right and you will not be disappointed.
Howie.
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asioux
Trad climber
pasadena,ca
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When I arrived in The Valley on Thursday. I headed straight to the mountain shop to buy a pair. After trying on a couple of sizes and had some questions, I contacted JB to ask my questions about size and stretching. I went with the recommended size street shoe 9. The next day, I climbed Mungella and Bishops terreace. Then put them to the real test the next day on Chingando 10a O/W. the rubber sticks well, the think rubber gave comfort around my foot and the high top part protected my ankle very well. I always use to climb o/w with low tops, but with these I'll cruise up o/w's without thrashing my ankle bones. As for jamming the toe into cracks the narrow part of the toe is perfect. Thank you John for the advise on the shoes... Next weekend Joshua Tree... Armando
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C-dog
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Spectres came but are WAAAAY too tight :(
The shoes are nice though.
I am size 12, but my big toe is folded
down further than I thought possible.
The advice to buy them large seems
good from here.
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Doh! I know you were stoked on getting those. Would you half, or whole size bigger?
You still have your Spires for this weekend though, right?
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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I have a pair of the Aurora hightops, and I really like them. They fit my narrow feet very well, and are a good all round shoe.
I normally wear street size 9.5, or typically 41 - 42 European. Most of the rock shoes I've ever had have been close to my street shoe size. I tried the Auroras in 10, 10.5 and 11, and ended up with the 11s. I compared the length of the Aurora 11s to my Boreal Ballets, and they're almost the same. The Ballets are nominally English size 8.5, = North American 9.5 = European 42.
Plus Acopa gives great service!
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G_Gnome
Sport climber
Everywhere, man...
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I just can't wear my JBs!
That heel cup is just too aggressively cut in and I have other shoes that work and I am not willing to deal with that much pain in order to break them in. I am going to try cutting some rubber on the heel and see if I can't get them somewhat comfortable. If not, then they will get tossed to someone else. I would like to get them working because sooner or later I am going to run out of Newtons, but unless they loosen up a LOT, they are not going to get climbed in by me.
Sorry John, but this needs to improve in future versions. Even Waugh won't wear them and he has no pain sensors.
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jbaker
Trad climber
Redwood City, CA
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Sep 17, 2007 - 12:19am PT
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What's the best way to contact Acopa for sizing/model help? Their website doesn't have any contact information.
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bachar
Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Sep 17, 2007 - 12:43am PT
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info@acopausa.com
acopausa dot com /acopa.jsp?navigation=27
You can always email me as well...
Thanks for the compliments folks!
See ya' at the crags! -jb
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veebee
Trad climber
ca
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Sep 17, 2007 - 02:26pm PT
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Beware! I had a miserable time with mine. The first pair blew a hole the size of a dime the first time I wore them - in the gym on a offwidth. Luckily for me, the customer service was excellent, and they exchanged the pair for a new one, no fuss. On my 2nd pair the fit was (although technically a good fit) so uncomfortable outdoors that I could only make it about 3 feet off the ground before I came down howling. They've been an absolute disaster for me- but I can't say enough about the excellent customer support.
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nate
Trad climber
virginia
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Sep 18, 2007 - 01:47pm PT
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just got mine and they are sweet. very supportive and sturdy feeling. I have a size twelve street shoe and got 12.5 so they would not be bone crushing. I bouldered at flagstaff mountain without a pad all afternoon and they were very confidence inspiring on dicey feet - supportive for my jingus toe, sticky, and comfortable. I think the main problem would be getting them too small they are a substantial shoe and don't need to be skin tight to climb well.
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scuffy b
climber
The deck above the 5
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Sep 18, 2007 - 01:55pm PT
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Are they the same shape as the Aztec? Or maybe the Aurora?
I've tried on the Aztec, in the right size, and I can tell that
they are just a bit too wide in the forefoot for me.
If the JB is the shape of the Aztec, is there any thought of a
high top, sturdy shoe for narrower feet?
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Brian
climber
Cali
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Sep 18, 2007 - 01:57pm PT
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Well, I was gonna start a new thread, but I'll see if I get some answers here.
On Sunday I tried on some Specters at Real Cheap in Ventura (the closest place to me in LA, and I was on my was to SB for a wedding). First impression is that they are really nice shoes. However, I've got some sizing questions for John and some general shoe questions for everyone.
(1) I wear an 8.5 or 9 street shoe. The size 9 Specters were pretty tight, tighter than I generally buy climbing shoes. The size 9.5 were a bit too loose to feel solid. I usually go for a sock-like fit--toes right to the end and tight but not buckled. So, the big question is, can I expect a bit of stretch in the Specters.
(2) Before everyone jumps in, my own personal experience (20+ years of climbing) is that shoes never really stretch that much. Flimsy slippers eventually stretch a bit, but more substantial shoes don't seem to stretch at all. In fact, it is hard to see how they could. If that rubber rand is worth its weight, it seems like it would keep the shoe leather from really expanding. In any case, as I said, I've almost never really stretched shoes out in a significant way.
That being said, I'm interested in input from you all.
Maybe my shoes have not been stretching because I don't buy them that tight?
Maybe I'm not drinking enough beer?
Maybe I'm just not climbing enough and should stop typing and whining and start climbing, whatever the shoes feel like?
Seriously though, any thoughts on those Specters? I'd like to make a decision soon...
Brian
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nick d
Trad climber
nm
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I just wanted to compliment the Acopa staff, specifically Lisa, on the excellent customer service. I have been working with them on getting the right size pair and am very pleased with the interactions. Unfortunately for me I have a foot in a cast so I can't get my JB's out right away, but they look and feel great! Thanks again for the outstanding service!
Michael
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FeelioBabar
climber
Sneaking up behind you...
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Three Cheers for Lisa!
She has got to be the most patient woman EVER!
After a send and resend...just got a pair of Chameleons and some Auroras for the wife!
Kick ass shoes...and I love that they don't have all the fancy schmancy bullshite...
just leather, and damn sticky rubber!
Acopa for Life!
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the museum
Trad climber
Rapid City, SD
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I got mine back from the re-sole shop already- they must be ok- apparently I wear them all the time.
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nutjob
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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I want to buy a pair of Acopa JBs, and I'm a bit wary on sizing...
I prefer comfort and all-day wearing type fit, and I always wear cotton gym socks inside them. I stay away from down-turned or curled toes.
Street shoes I usually go 10.5 or 11. From feedback here it looks like Acopa JB size 12 is my ticket... anywhere in SF Bay Area I can actually try them on to avoid several shipping exchanges?
Planet Granite sunnyvale doesn't keep them in stock, I don't want to special order them.
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msiddens
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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May 17, 2008 - 09:39pm PT
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Sunrise Mountaineering in Livermore OR Marmot in Berkley. Otherwise, head east to Mammoth or Bishop.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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May 18, 2008 - 12:05am PT
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Just wanted to add that I was recently looking for a shoe and the La Sportiva Mythos was recommended to me. Checked around and learned that the Acopa Aztec is supposed to be similar to the Mythos and said by some to be a better fit, more precise, great leather and toe point and more comfortable. lrl
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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May 18, 2008 - 12:38am PT
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The Aztecs are a great shoe... I wore out my last pair of Mythos in 3 months, my Aztecs lasted a couple of years, currently they are my gym shoe. I'll get another pair sometime later in the summer.
My Cameleons are still kicking ass. Like those too but don't wear them as much.
JB UPDATE I do truly love these shoes, they are taking megahits on the offwidth circuit and what's turning up as a problem is the "aft foot" rand area. Basically, anywhere the outer rand overlaps something underneath (usually some other rand strip) it's tearing. So I don't think the rands on these shoes will last a season if I keep at the OW circuit as heavily as I am... maybe I need better technique.
Or maybe a slightly different formulation for the rubber that would make it a bit harder?
Or maybe look at how the rand is deployed on the shoe.
So far with these JBs:
Sacherer Cracker
Moby Dick Center
Ahab
Sacherer Cracker
The Slack Left
Generator Crack
Two Humps or One? (alternate third pitch of a new route... 5.10a OW)
Cream
Bad Ass Momma (gave it the old college try at least)
Hoping there will be something left for the various schemes which seem to be hatching for the summer...
...if Acopa wants a brutal product tester, that would be me...
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Tui
Boulder climber
SD
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May 18, 2008 - 12:51am PT
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Be careful using the JB's for offwidths in my opinion. The rubber on the heel will peel off where the seams overlap. Mine came off in the first month. The rubber on the bottom of the shoes seems great. The issues seem to be where the rubber hits the leather or where it overlaps on the heel. On a better note my Spectres work great.
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perswig
climber
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May 18, 2008 - 07:00am PT
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Ed H., can you possibly post pics of your JBs' problem areas? Considering a pair, don't do OWs much at all, but would like to see your wear pattern anyway. Thanks. Dale
(Oh, satisfied owner of Aztecs, which alternate with resoled Newtons as my 'nummer-one' shoe.)
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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May 18, 2008 - 09:08am PT
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I'll get the pix, but not too soon...
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James
climber
Santa Cruz
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May 29, 2008 - 02:36am PT
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Spectres are sick on sandstone cracks. Moonlight Buttress V 5.12d
Enzos are better bouldering
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perswig
climber
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May 29, 2008 - 07:29am PT
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Good pics, pretty chewed. Thank you, Ed.
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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May 29, 2008 - 09:54am PT
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Ed ya gotta love the way that NATURAL rubber peels off itself! Looks like a formula one tire coming off after a long stint, Bachar says F-1 tires are the sticky....the Enzo is in his line of shoes.
Got a pair of Aztecs and I tried fitting myself despite what John said about the fit....I was wrong, he was right. The size he recommended was the correct one. Thanks John, Lisa and Steve(RIP)for such a cool set of zapatos(sp)!
Peace
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FeelioBabar
climber
Sneaking up behind you...
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Got a look at the new Legends at the OR yesterday...and they are what I've been dreaming of since I got the JB's...a low top but like the JB in stiffness. A modern day ace/syncro, if you will, but made by the right folks. Stiff, but with that killer Acopa toe-box. I was droolin on em for sure! Look like they'd edge on a gnat's ass.
Plus...JB styled them retro-fire.... Fuggin cool if you ask me.
ACOPA FOR LIFE!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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I've had these boots for a year and used them only outside, on OW mostly...
compare with the photos above...
The climbs climbed in them:
Dream Easy
Physical Therapy
Off Width Ed
Sacherer Cracker
Moby Dick Center
Ahab
Sacherer Cracker
The Slack Left
Generator Crack
Two Humps or One? (alternate third pitch of a new route... 5.10a OW)
Cream
Bad Ass Momma (gave it the old college try at least)
Warm Up (5.9 OW somewhere in the Sierra)
Butt Side of Baby Gristle (5.9 OW sameplace in the Sierra)
Baby Gristle (5.10+ OW samesame in the Sierra)
Circular Staircase
When You're Strange
Baobob Tree
I.S.M.W.W.C.I.
MRC Direct
Edwards' Crack
Hourglass, Right Side
Robbins' Crack
Crucible
Test Tube
Mother Superior
Orange Juice Avenue
My inclination is to send them to Barry's Resole and have them work out a solution to the rand issues... the boots are great though, as much as they are damaged in my usage (I'm hard on shoes, and these have lasted about a year of really hard work). The boot I'm using now is a pair of Kaukulators that Mr. Smooth found on eBay... for my feet, JBs and Kaukulators are the boots of choice.
wear on the outside heels and mid-foot
the list of climbs:
more wear on the left foot at the outside ball of the foot and the toe
outside-heel rand is delaminated
left foot outside rand well worked
right foot outside rand, the same
closeup on left foot rand peel... perhaps the glue?
closeup of mid-foot rand seam
right foot rand seam also torn, but not through
toes, left foot through to last?
soles, hardly worked... must be doing a lot of OW
tops in good shape, not blood stains either!
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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Feb 28, 2009 - 04:26pm PT
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how is the sizing of these? I found a canadian site that has them for REAL cheap on closeout. I have a 10.5 aztec, real real comfy fit, but this site only has a 9.5...think it will work??
How do you folks have them sized?
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hoipolloi
climber
A friends backyard with the neighbors wifi
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Feb 28, 2009 - 08:59pm PT
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Hey Sewellymon
Didn't do shark vegas, we thought about it but... We ended up going to this big shtone right above and right of Cannibal Crag did this really awesome upwards then sharp right moving 10d crack. Really cool line despite the 0 stars. After that we made it over to the Risk Brothers Roof. It was so cool! 8ish foot horizontal perfect hands to slightly wide hands roof crack. beautiful indian creek looking splitter! It was so fun!
Shark Vegas is 11c in the guide, right where you said it is. Im going to check it out next time i am down there.
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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I like my JBs. The first pair I bought I got my street size 9 1/2. Lisa at Acopa had gently tried to get me to order bigger but I didn't. I immediately slapped a 1 1/2x 3 inch rounded C4 patch on the outside of the shoe where the foot is widest.
I did this because two things usually happen to my climbing shoes. They stretch in this area and then start to deform, doing a banana bend, which pushed the front of the shoe to the side, out of alignment with the toes, making it hard to smear, and to jamb thin cracks. I thought to preempt this by putting on this patch. What I didn't appreciate is that the JB are stiff. They won't stretch that much. I've worn this pair on a lot of climbs and twice a week in the gym and they are still tight. I believe they will eventually stretch to fit. Meanwhile I got a pair of 10 1/2s. One full size larger than my street size. They fit well and haven't deformed at all. I still prefer my green 5.10 Altias, which I'm only now using on long routes.
Zander
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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my Acopa JBs were fit through the mail, basically Lisa sent me two pair with a range of fitting, 10.5 and 11, and the 10.5's worked.... I sent the others back along with a check for the fit pair.
The JBs are fit for OW climbing, which is to say, on the large side... if you are going to use them primarily for edging, you will probably want to fit them smaller, but Acopa will give you very good advice if you give them good information on your intended use.
With my Aztecs and Chameleons, the fit is differential, one foot being 9.5 and the other 10, which give a perfect out-of-the-box fit. A friend asked Scarpa if they would do the same thing and got laughed at by the US representative during the phone conversation. The friend said he would contact Scarpa Italy directly, and was further mocked by the rep...
considering that climbing shoes are bought for a precise function, with a limited lifetime, and at some expense, it is odd that shoe companies are not more in tune with the climbers. This apparently hasn't been an issue as the "if the shoe hurts, it fits" philosophy persists among climbers to this day... the young climbers will routinely buy painful sizes thinking that this will improve their climbing.
I think that is a real misconception that persists, you can get well fit shoes that perform well and don't hurt... Acopa does a good job in making that happen.
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Redwreck
Social climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Strangely, my size 11 JB's are painfully tight on my 10.5 to 11-sized feet (crunched toes, mostly). I've climbed 1 or 2 pitches in them and worn them around the house a bunch hoping they'll stretch, but no. I think I need to go up at least a half size, and possibly a full size.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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So, who has a pair of legends and a report?
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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btw I see that REI is carrying the Aztec and Spectre online. Called up the saratoga & mountain view stores, but nothing there yet ..
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Wow, Ed.
I bet 90 percent of that wear came on just a handful of those routes.
My rands are delaminating at the stress point (a the met heads), but it's not fatal. I eventually burned thru the rubber and had them resoled with C4. I've finally gotten used to the Acopa rubber, though, and the next pair I get resoled I'll probably stick with the original stuff.
The shoe itself is holding up remarkably well, given the mileage I'm putting on them.
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couchmaster
climber
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Climbmax, my local climbing store needs to carry these. I told them that when I got my Aztecs. That and Bachaer needs the bump and I need to put that damn racoon image someplace:-)
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hamburglar
Trad climber
Denver, CO
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I've been climbing in my spectre's for the last year and a half. I find them to be a great all around shoe. Unfortunately one of the toes blew out about halfway through the first season. I had them repaired/resoled and they are no doubt my favorite shoe. I actually just picked up a new pair at the 20% REI sale as the rubber on mine is peeling off on the outside of the shoe (up toward the toe). I used a little shoe goo and that seemed to help put it back together.
Just a quick note on the sizing; I like my shoes "snug" and I wear and 8.5 street shoe. In the spectre's I got a 9.5 that is the perfect fit for me. I've never bought a climbing shoe in a larger size that my street shoe but I couldn't come close to fitting my foot in an 8.5. They stretch a little, but probably just molded to my feet a little from all the sweat.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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my monthly question on this general topic - has anyone put a pair of acopa legends on their feet and checked them out? Do these shoes really exist?
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Sep 16, 2009 - 11:29pm PT
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OK. I wear a size 8.5 street shoe and ordered a size 8 on-line per JB's advice to get 1/2 size less than your street shoe size. Man, those size 8's have about half the volume of my running shoes; they look like baby shoes! There was no way my foot would fit in them. They are a good 2.5" to 3" shorter than my running shoes. So I did a search and came up with this thread. I'm going to return them but have no clue what size to request in exchange. Based on the volume of the 8's, I don't know whether to request a size 9.5 or 10 or ????
Any advice? Is the quality control such that there is a variance in actual dimensions within a size (i.e., are all size 8's the same dimensions or is it inconsistant)?
I have not been able to find anywhere in South Orange County (CA) that carries these so I can try them on. Anyone know of anyone that carries these in this area?
Thank for any input.
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Sep 16, 2009 - 11:38pm PT
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I bought my JB's about two years ago at Mammoth Mountaineering Supply. My feet measure size 9.5 and I got the JB's in 10, which seemed to work reasonably well. I hear some people size way up to wear with socks, but I generally don't.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Sep 16, 2009 - 11:49pm PT
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ryang-
Thanks for the input. How much shorter are your JB 10's versus your 9.5 running shoes?
Edit: Meaning if you place them sole to sole, which includes the fat shock absorbing heals on the running shoe, which distorts actual internal length/volume.
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Sep 16, 2009 - 11:57pm PT
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I don't own running shoes because I don't run. I usually wear high-top hiking boots because my ankles are crap .. but I doubt measuring them would help you any.
I'm pretty sure MMS takes mail order via their website, but mountain gear also carries them. I'd probably order a few sizes and return the ones which don't fit. The postage could get spendy, but for that I tend to use something like stamps.com ..
You could also order direct from Acopa (which I haven't done, but I hear they are good about this kind of thing).
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Sep 17, 2009 - 12:18am PT
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My JBs are finally broken in and they are great. For my spatula feet it was kind of like breaking in hiking boots but now I have a shoe for years to come. This is my second pair. Definitely listen to Lisa at Acopa about sizing. I have never bought climbing shoes bigger than my street shoe size before. Did I mention that my feet are like spatulas?
Zander
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The Wedge
Boulder climber
Bishop, CA
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Sep 17, 2009 - 12:57am PT
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Going to get a pair of Acopa in a few days. Tried on the Legends..in hope of replacing my Sportiva Syncro's. I wear a size 8.5 street shoe and I will end up getting the Legend in a 9. Any problems with the legends?
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Ray-J
Social climber
east L.A. vato...
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Sep 17, 2009 - 01:04am PT
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Nomads in Jtree has the Acopa Legend, Mike.
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gonzo chemist
climber
the Twilight Zone of someone else's intentions
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Dec 23, 2009 - 08:17pm PT
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Figured I'd throw my 2 cents in here. I recently got a new pair of JBs. But I managed to beat them up pretty quickly I guess. After only 2 or 3 days of climbing some offwidth and doing some inversion problems (like Right Long's Crack @ Mt Woodson) the soles are delaminating and the rand on the outside of my right foot is totally peeling off. I'm just going to send 'em to be resoled and get the rand beefed up. It seems like a glue issue. But other than that, the shoes fit my feet very well. The lasts that Acopa uses seem to fit my feet amazingly well.
On a separate note, I have a pair of Spectres that I have abused like crazy, for about a year and a half and they're freakin fantastic! No issues at all, except its time they had a resole.
-Nick
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blahblah
Gym climber
Boulder
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Dec 23, 2009 - 09:19pm PT
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Nick--what size Spectres did you get compared to your normal shoe size?
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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Dec 23, 2009 - 10:14pm PT
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I got a half size up on my spectres to my evolv and five ten mid volume shoe size (anasazi velcro 9, anasazi lace 9, evolv defy 9, evolv pontas 9, five ten galileo 9, spectre 9.5....) and it fit like a gem. Best for edging I've had.
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blahblah
Gym climber
Boulder
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Dec 23, 2009 - 10:36pm PT
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Thanks, REI has had Spectes on sale for $105 for a while, seems like a good deal.
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gonzo chemist
climber
the Twilight Zone of someone else's intentions
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Dec 24, 2009 - 01:39am PT
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blahblah,
my street/running shoe size is 9. And just for reference, I also have a pair of Anasazi lace-ups (the older pink ones) in a size 9. My spectres are a size 9. I rarely ever wear the anasazis anymore because they're so uncomfortable. By contrast, the Spectres are way more comfortable, in spite of being very snug.
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right shoe, heel
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