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Howie
Trad climber
Calgary, Alberta
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See their web site under "Customer Service". That should answer your question.
Howie.
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maldaly
Trad climber
Boulder, CO
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Hey Michael Smith, I do remember. Where have you been? I've been here, glued to the ST for the last year. Before that I started and ran Trango ;-). What are you up to? To answer your Q's, my real foot is my bad foot. Damn thing hurts all the time, is cold when it's below 80 degrees and doesn't work like it should. I keep it because it gives me some balance and power, neither of which I have in my prosthetic foot.
Mal
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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g gnome-- they will break in it just takes a really long time. i had to get in a lot of mileage and also used an insert to help them comform to my feet. they also soften up a bit, so more comfort but less stiffness. if it was 1983 i suppose i'd buy one pair a 1/2 size smaller that i used only for dime edging testpieces. fortunately, it's not 1983 anymore.
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nick d
Trad climber
nm
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Hey Malcolm! Sorry to hear about your foot. I can relate on some level. I have had 13 (lucky!) surgeries on my left knee, it is very problematic. I can hammer pretty good with it for a while, but then its usually a multi-week, sometimes months, period before it recovers enough to hammer it some more. I will have to have it replaced with a prosthetic some day, but I am going to put that off as long as humanly possible. I'm sure you feel the same about your foot. No matter how bad it is, if you can endure it you just know its better in terms of function than any prosthetic could be. I have lived here in Albuquerque since I've last seen you, climbing in the Sandias and riding my bicycles. I ride more than climb these days because of my knee, but I still love climbing the most of any outdoor activity I have done. Thats a big part of getting hooked on the Supertopo scene, I think. I don't know if I would call it living vicariously, but its a way to participate in the climbing scene when my body is just not up to the real thing. I must be an optomist though, because I still buy climbing gear even when I know I won't be able to get out for the forseeable future. I've got a pair of JB's on the way even though my knee is grapefruit size and throbbing as we speak! I can't wait to try em out. Anyway, nice to talk to you, perhaps we can get out and climb something someday!
Michael
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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g gnome, when you say radical heel, what shape does your heel make?
do you normally fit into a Sportiva, e.g. Katana heel cup? Or do you normally fit e.g. a Boreal heel cup?
5.10 heel cup? (varies by shoe of course to some degree)
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Knob Central
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Jul 10, 2007 - 01:13pm PT
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Munge, my all around shoe is a FiveTen Newton and it fits perfectly. I think the rubber and the midsole are a little soft for really thin edging but they are a great shoe (just not really well made). I used to swear by Sportiva Tao's and Focus' but my feet keep getting wider the older I get and Sportiva keeps getting narrower and I can't really wear them anymore. At any rate, the heel cup on the JBs is shaped a lot like a pair of Madrock Mugens. In other words, it comes forward A LOT to slingshot your foot forward. I bought the JBs a half size larger than I otherwise would have because of the heel cup and am really glad I did. I did 2 short thin knob routes in them on Sunday and I was probably at the point where I would start getting a blister on my heels if I had done any more in them. I am going to try slitting the upper most piece of rubber back there and see if that relieves some of the pressure. I also think the leather in the upper is too stiff. It just doesn't give at all to shape to your foot so either your foot fits in them perfectly or your feet are going to hurt. They do edge like a bad boy though and that's what I need in a shoe!
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CA Dreamin'
climber
SLO
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Jul 13, 2007 - 10:45pm PT
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I like my Acopa JBs too. Here's why:
The heel cup is no where nearly as agressive as another brands high tops. Hence, my achilles don't kill me after a couple of pitches.
The toe is more aggressive than other high tops I've tried, making them great in finger cracks.
My feet fit them well, so they're amazing for all day comfort.
They're stiff, so they edge well and are supportive in cracks.
The photo isn't related to any of the above comments, but hey, it's a good shot of them.
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nick d
Trad climber
nm
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Jul 14, 2007 - 12:17am PT
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I just got my JBs today, but unfortunately I guessed way wrong on the size. The picture is a size 8 1/2 JB with a size 9 Adidas. I want them to be an all day, long route shoe that I can walk in some if I have to, which in the Sandias where I mostly climb is often necessary. As you can see by the photo the JB is about 2 inches shorter than my tennis shoe, and is, shall I say, a very performance oriented fit. I'm now thinking that I probably want a 9 1/2 instead. Any input on that from the JB owners out there? They look great, I can't wait to get em sized right and climb in them. Hope this is of help to anybody else who is just guessing at their size.
Michael
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justthemaid
climber
Los Angeles
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Jul 14, 2007 - 10:15am PT
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I love the JBs
They are the only shoes I can climb in (joint problems).
Salmanizer- I'm shocked you blew them out that quickly. I've been climbing 3 days a week in mine for months with no problems (and I'm a toe dragger). I did manage to need a resole in only one month but that was at J-tree. Quartz monzonite eats Acopa rubber for dinner. (5-10 rubber has lasted much longer).
Perhaps a.) You got a bum pair? or b.)Your technique is even worse than mine is?
NickD- I found the sizing to be totally weird. In the women's sizes I had to go a full size and a 1/2 LARGER than my street shoe.
JB- If you are reading this- your sizing is wacko.
The biggest pair of street shoes I own is a women's 8 1/2 I'm usually more of an 8. I have two pair of JB's One is a women's 9 1/2. The other is a women's 10. The 9 1/2's are almost too tight. I climb in the larger ones most of the time.
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C-dog
Trad climber
Bay Area
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I am also headed for the meadows & was admiring
bluering's Acopas on Saturday as he stuck very
well to "Pearls Before Swine" 10d, Aquarian Valley.
I once lead Needle & Spoon in a new pair of Fire Gazelles
(remember those?) only to encounter some crazy guy
soloing the Dike Route as I approached the belay. Upon
extolling the virtues of the fuschia lace up slippers to this
passerby, I was informed that he was the designer of the
very shoes I wore. (So Long ago)
I'd like to expedite an Acopa order today, and bluering
suggested I revive this thread.
So... I wear size twelve, and have been doing quite well
in my 5.10 Spires for a while. What I'd like to get is a more
sensitive face shoe, something that doesn't hurt too much,
mainly for 10cd 11ab stuff. Thinking Acopas...
Any ideas which Acopa model, which size? THANKS!
C-dog
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nate23
Trad climber
c-ville, virginia
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anyone know where i can get these around denver? I seem to have an arthiritc big toe at age 26 and these might be the ticket as support seems to help it quite a bit.
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Howie
Trad climber
Calgary, Alberta
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You think JB's are the best and they are good. But you should try some Spectre's, they are even better!
I have both pairs.
I'm not a top notch climber but these two boots are the best that I have worn and over the years i have worn a lot of different makes. They really have boosted my confidence.
Howie.
ed: I agree the sizing is a bit wacko but what isn't these days. I never buy anything until I tried it on.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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I'm also in the market for some "tuolumne" shoes -- knobs, those little half-moon edges and cracks. Loved my aces for this. Can any of you JB owners compare them to Aces? John? (I bought my Aces from you at the Gunks (the TMds gunks that is) and had resoled them at least 5 times.
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Durabone
climber
Santa Cruz Mountains
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Cool website:
acopausa dot com
Thanks for the Spectra beta Howie. These I'm
thinking to order, based on the "Shoe Sizing" page:
acopausa dot com /acopa.jsp?navigation=11
Woo-Hoo!
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C-dog
Trad climber
Bay Area
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I think I'll go spectre. Now if I can
just find someone to expedite me
a pair of size 12's today, that would
ROCK
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Howie
Trad climber
Calgary, Alberta
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No problem D.
Really do watch the sizing though. I'm in 10.5's and could possibly be an 11. At best my street shoe size is 9/9.5 US. Funnily enough the Spectre's are not as tight(length wise) as the JB's but both are showing signs of becoming more comfortable but it will still be awhile. At present they are like a second skin. I'll put up with some pain just to climb with more confidence. On long routes I will for the time being carry another shoe for comfort on the easier sections.
Get the sizing right and you will not be disappointed.
Howie.
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asioux
Trad climber
pasadena,ca
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When I arrived in The Valley on Thursday. I headed straight to the mountain shop to buy a pair. After trying on a couple of sizes and had some questions, I contacted JB to ask my questions about size and stretching. I went with the recommended size street shoe 9. The next day, I climbed Mungella and Bishops terreace. Then put them to the real test the next day on Chingando 10a O/W. the rubber sticks well, the think rubber gave comfort around my foot and the high top part protected my ankle very well. I always use to climb o/w with low tops, but with these I'll cruise up o/w's without thrashing my ankle bones. As for jamming the toe into cracks the narrow part of the toe is perfect. Thank you John for the advise on the shoes... Next weekend Joshua Tree... Armando
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C-dog
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Spectres came but are WAAAAY too tight :(
The shoes are nice though.
I am size 12, but my big toe is folded
down further than I thought possible.
The advice to buy them large seems
good from here.
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