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okie
Trad climber
San Leandro, Ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 15, 2009 - 08:35pm PT
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This is an edit of the original post, since it popped back up again. Not fishing for beta anymore. Someone thought the thread was worth ressurecting, and I agree.
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Brunosafari
Boulder climber
OR
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Oct 15, 2009 - 08:55pm PT
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Crucial beta: prior to tie-in, place hands in beehive for ten minutes.
I'm pretty sure Haan has supplied (additional) precision beta on TZ in an earlier thread. Though I tried to avert my eyes, the weakness of my flesh prevailed.
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okie
Trad climber
San Leandro, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 15, 2009 - 09:03pm PT
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Thanks, y'all. I'm familiar with the Haan thread. And I know I'm gonna die...hopefully not anytime soon...
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Oct 15, 2009 - 09:08pm PT
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plug in a 4.5 tube and run it out, or use modern pro that fits. With today's rack you just gotta grunt. do you really need every move on 3x5 cards in your lap? Just go there, it will seem like a long pitch.
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Poofter's Froth, Wyoming
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Oct 15, 2009 - 09:31pm PT
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You can drape a sling over a flake at the start..... then up near the top you can get a fist jam and a 4" cam that looks pretty good. But before that, your stack needs to explode due to sweat and you punch yourself in the face and slide out of the corner only to stop because a rivet on your Levis caught a crystal on the way by..... oh.... and your belayer needs to be on acid. At least that was the way I did it.
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WBraun
climber
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Oct 15, 2009 - 09:33pm PT
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And climb the last pitch to the top.
Otherwise you never did the route .....
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Oct 15, 2009 - 10:35pm PT
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MH beat me to the punch, oh, he said that already.... man....
make sure to take beautiful pictures, and make a great video...
then post the TR here! or better yet, over at WideFetish
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Oct 15, 2009 - 10:49pm PT
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Seconding Werner. You have to do the entire route. There is already too much beta available on the crux pitch but the final pitch is also....... is also.... very interesting and certainly part of the climb. You will be fine; it is well-representative of the big time offwidths but actually might be even a bit more dangerous as there is a guillotine flake at the bottom of the crux lead. With modern pro you will be reasonably safe. If your cardiovascular condition is not superb, wait until it is.
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okie
Trad climber
San Leandro, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 15, 2009 - 11:01pm PT
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Jaybro, do you have those 3x5 beta cards? Without those I'll just have to throw myself at it and wait for death, being sure to bring a sling for the chopper flake at the bottom and a piece of two-by-four or something for the top as Fish suggested...
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oct 15, 2009 - 11:07pm PT
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The 2" x 4" is for whacking yourself on the head. Useful whether you get to the top (teach yourself a lesson), or don't get off the ground (prevents you from doing so).
The 3" x 5" cards work best as protection when duct taped to the right wall.
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okie
Trad climber
San Leandro, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 15, 2009 - 11:10pm PT
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Do the whole route- copy that. I hear what you are saying, Werner and Peter. Though neither of you would remember me, I have met both of you guys and have the utmost respect for your opinions and think you both are great guys, in my humble opinion. Okay, 'nuff said.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Oct 15, 2009 - 11:15pm PT
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Great Okie! We (WB and I) both just have no clue with your "handle" of Okie. I wish I was aware more of who I am talking to here generally. There have been so many that I would like to reconnect with, you know, before it is too late. AND this climb has no relationship to the kind of stuff going on nowadays for the most part--- it is Pratt's Magnum Opus from 44 years ago.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Oct 15, 2009 - 11:32pm PT
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San Leandro? I'll leave those cards at the 7-11 closest to BIW. take pictures!
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Norwegian
Trad climber
Placerville, California
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Oct 16, 2009 - 08:13am PT
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russ,
your rad.
oh, and to the orig. poster:
rap in and pre-place some gear:
a fricken tall boy pabst blur ribbon (or equivalent) end-to-end-big-bro-style at exactly 62' above finished floor.
above, there is a good rest that invites wine...ing.
ps.
ive never done the route but hope to hobble over its lip some day.
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Redlands
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Just saw this pic today of Nic Taylor on it, which I'd never seen. We've all seen the one in the book, but this is a different shot. Marty put it on the Yosemite Climber Project blog, apparently it was from a Climbing mag preview of the upcoming book.
EDIT: Scan courtesy of Grossman, via MartyR.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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How'd that go?
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okie
Trad climber
San Leandro, Ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 5, 2009 - 01:53pm PT
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Funny how threads disappear for awhile off the screen and then reappear later. Thought this one was gone.
TZ is still on my list for this winter. That weekend in question nobody in my crew wanted to follow it. I assume there are no fixed anchors atop the 2nd pitch,(beta I was asking for) so it seemed like too much logistics to climb it, rap down and clean it, then hike around to the top, rap again...
And I really do want to do it as a complete route anyway.
We did some other wide stuff instead and honestly, some more training wouldn't hurt! But that route really inspires me, Jaybro.
Steppin' Out is another one I'm working my way up to.
For a long time I avoided the wide. Now it feels like relearning to climb, and it's so much fun!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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I don't remember about the anchors, but Spyork and Gary carp(?) toproped it... Ask them?
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scuffy b
climber
Whuttiz that Monstrosicos Inferno?
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"For a long time I avoided the wide. Now it feels like relearning to
climb, and it's so much fun."
I've been saying variations of this for a while, and it's really true.
It's a boon to have this arcane method to learn, instead of just resigning
yourself to never being fit enough to climb the way you used to.
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