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Porkchop_express
Trad climber
the base of the Shawangunk Ridge
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 14, 2009 - 11:24pm PT
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Thinking about going through there this summer/fall. I am interested in hearing feedback about the place- quality, quantity, seasons, free camping (BLM land?) and such...
I would really like to see some pics from it. The few I have seen look promising, but its always nice to get some alternate views...
Steve
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the museum
Trad climber
Rapid City
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Jun 15, 2009 - 12:18am PT
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Porkchop, e-mail me and I'll mail you an old guide for Fremont Canyon and for Dome Rock. You can borrow them.
the museum
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Porkchop_express
Trad climber
the base of the Shawangunk Ridge
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 15, 2009 - 12:35am PT
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thank you very much. email sent. I really appreciate it.
Steve
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oils
climber
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Jun 15, 2009 - 01:31am PT
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Went there for about a week on a long road trip about 5 years ago. The place is really unique and memorable for the unusual setting. On many climbs you rap in from the top right down to the water's edge which makes it sometimes hard to know you are on the right route and keeping the rope dry. TR or be strong or you're swimming out. We went in July. It was hot and not advised (we saw only one other group the entire week). Camping is right off the road and primitive or pay camping at the resevoir. All in all, I wouldn't go way out of my way to get there but excellent stop over if in the area.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jun 15, 2009 - 03:19am PT
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I don't think there is really any climbing there, but if you gotta go, Wine, roses and swallow (swift?), are a good start.
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Mike Friedrichs
Sport climber
City of Salt
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Jun 15, 2009 - 09:47am PT
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... and Morning Sickness for a 5-star offwidth.
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Dick_Lugar
Trad climber
Indiana (the other Mideast)
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Jun 15, 2009 - 11:16am PT
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Whoa, whoa, whoa, lets keep this one on the "down-low" could we???...my old stompin' grounds, dear to my heart.
When the river is flowing high, the climbing there is exquisite. Hard to imagine 'ol John (?) Fremont getting up the gumption to run the canyon in his rafts. Makes climbing seem tame in comparison.
Two words: "Dillingham Blues"..10.c (right beneath the bridge...can set an anchor right off the bridge and then do a 100 ft. swing from it...Yeeeeeeeeeeeee!)
Have fun! Go before it heats up!
Edit: And, if the water's low, "Slab Route 10.c" 3-pitch, 4-5 star route (the first pitch is .9+ and can be rapped if the next 2 pitches are too daunting- flaring dihedral with desparate cam placement if I recall correctly).
I'll see you there next year!
I have a few pics before the advent of digital cameras, I'll need to do some scanning...Please Stand By!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jun 15, 2009 - 12:19pm PT
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I hear there is a truly cool shoe down there, I think below dillingham blues, I've met it's mate.
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Porkchop_express
Trad climber
the base of the Shawangunk Ridge
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 15, 2009 - 12:31pm PT
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That swing made my stomach drop, big time. Looks fun, nevertheless.
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Dick_Lugar
Trad climber
Indiana (the other Mideast)
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Jun 15, 2009 - 12:32pm PT
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Must be the "troll" under the bridge...he likes to snatch the shoes off of unsuspecting climbers!
The only thing I've lost on that climb is my dignity...many, many times! LOL!
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Dick_Lugar
Trad climber
Indiana (the other Mideast)
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Jun 15, 2009 - 01:16pm PT
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Man, am I a sucka for WY climbing threads...shoulda been working but scanned pix's and labeled for 2 hrs. What a P.I.T.A.
Anyways, Steve...Do it! You have to put this place on your tick list. Over 300+ climbs from 30 ft. (Low Voltage Wall) to over 300 ft. (Power Tower/Zoo Station wall). As far as I know now, there's free camping all along the rim of the canyon from the bridge to Pathfinder Res. (Bur. of Rec.). We used to just camp in the parking lot at the bridge and be the only ones there-even on Memorial Day weekend! If not, fee camping at both Alcova or Pathfinder Reservoirs w/in mins. of the Canyon.
Time permitting, Dome Rock is about 20 mins away, really remote (even more than the Canyon if that's possible) and really fun! Check with Mtn. Sports in Casper (Kevin Siebke: keving@caspermtnsports.com) for road access to it. It's changed over the years and is a little tricky to avoid private land.
Get food and water in Casper before you head out there. There was a general store at the turnoff to Alcova, not sure if it's there anymore and selection there was always thin.
If you have any more questions, email me at the ST account. Be glad to answer them.
Frank
Canyon overview looking south from the bridge:
Did you see that fish? Sitting above "The Chief" 5.9. (Edit: This area is north of the bridge a 1/2 mile or so...)
Bushwaker 5.9...most excellent climb, on lead or T.R...that crack the climber is on is fingers/small hands...sweetness!: Edit: (Climber: Bryce Mitchell...Where are YOU Bryce?? It's been too long!..call me!)
Nowhere to run to baby, nowhere to hide...river directly below, heinous traverse out to the crack-Stoneking 5.9+:
Stoneking 5.9+
For kicks and giggles: (Wade Griffiths on traverse-Anybody from Boulder meet up with Wade yet? He's been there a couple years now, great guy, hardman climber!)
Edit: "Dillingham Blues 10.C" far right side, angling crack system directly underneath the bridge, white ledge...I think you can see Jaybro's shoe on the ledge??
My then 10 yr. old bro-in-law (now 22 yrs old and grad. of UW this year!...yikes!). Low Voltage wall, 10.A boulder move off the deck.
Low Voltage Wall-name of climb??? pretty obvious lines when you get there.
Weather or Not 5.8. My "non-climbing" wife pulling the roof. I think this was the climb that did it..she never climbed with me again (Edit: Roof not to scale...wife is 6'1" tall which makes it a tad bit easier to send!)
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Jun 15, 2009 - 01:21pm PT
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Great stuff DL!!!
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Logdog
Trad climber
Sierra Nevada
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Jun 15, 2009 - 01:22pm PT
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We spent a week there last fall, the place is super great. The only guidebook to the area is fairly poor, so finding some of the climbs can be tough. There are some SPLITTER climbs of very high quality! Hit up the Sweetwater Rocks while you're in the area for some amazing domes/ formations in total solitude.
-chuck
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Dick_Lugar
Trad climber
Indiana (the other Mideast)
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Jun 15, 2009 - 01:39pm PT
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Thanks Tking! We need to hook-up sometime. I think we're moving back to the "hood" next summer...
Yeah, Chuck...amazing place. Lankin Dome and Splitrock come to mind. I've climbed a couple routes on Lankin D. but not Splitrock. I believe you need to get landowner's permission to access it.
Frank
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Jun 15, 2009 - 01:48pm PT
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That'd be rad DL! Always cool to link up with new folks, and this area looks pretty stellar!
A ST gathering here would be cool too...
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Dick_Lugar
Trad climber
Indiana (the other Mideast)
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Jun 15, 2009 - 02:25pm PT
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Yep TKing, I was thinking the exact same thing. We need to get WY-ST coordinator on this one (Jaybro..nudge, nudge, wink, wink) or do it ourselves. We could link it together with the Boogaloo Jamboree somehow. I'm totally up for it...guess this means I need to dust the rack off and put new laces in me climbing shoes for 2010!
Edit: http://www.fremontcanyon.com/SLABAREA.html
Steve...The Slab Route is a hoot...do it!
Edit#2: Steve, you DO know about the ST Veedauwoo Bugaloo in Aug. right? YOu should link your trip to those dates whenever they come up with them.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=861546&msg=869343#msg869343
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Jun 15, 2009 - 04:47pm PT
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Devils Tower-Fremont Canyon-Vedauwoo trifecta!
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Dick_Lugar
Trad climber
Indiana (the other Mideast)
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Jun 15, 2009 - 04:57pm PT
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Yes, that would be a fine Trifecta indeed!
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