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Porkchop_express
Trad climber
the base of the Shawangunk Ridge
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 14, 2009 - 11:24pm PT
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Thinking about going through there this summer/fall. I am interested in hearing feedback about the place- quality, quantity, seasons, free camping (BLM land?) and such...
I would really like to see some pics from it. The few I have seen look promising, but its always nice to get some alternate views...
Steve
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the museum
Trad climber
Rapid City
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Jun 15, 2009 - 12:18am PT
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Porkchop, e-mail me and I'll mail you an old guide for Fremont Canyon and for Dome Rock. You can borrow them.
the museum
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Porkchop_express
Trad climber
the base of the Shawangunk Ridge
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 15, 2009 - 12:35am PT
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thank you very much. email sent. I really appreciate it.
Steve
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oils
climber
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Jun 15, 2009 - 01:31am PT
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Went there for about a week on a long road trip about 5 years ago. The place is really unique and memorable for the unusual setting. On many climbs you rap in from the top right down to the water's edge which makes it sometimes hard to know you are on the right route and keeping the rope dry. TR or be strong or you're swimming out. We went in July. It was hot and not advised (we saw only one other group the entire week). Camping is right off the road and primitive or pay camping at the resevoir. All in all, I wouldn't go way out of my way to get there but excellent stop over if in the area.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jun 15, 2009 - 03:19am PT
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I don't think there is really any climbing there, but if you gotta go, Wine, roses and swallow (swift?), are a good start.
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Mike Friedrichs
Sport climber
City of Salt
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Jun 15, 2009 - 09:47am PT
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... and Morning Sickness for a 5-star offwidth.
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Dick_Lugar
Trad climber
Indiana (the other Mideast)
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Jun 15, 2009 - 11:16am PT
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Whoa, whoa, whoa, lets keep this one on the "down-low" could we???...my old stompin' grounds, dear to my heart.
When the river is flowing high, the climbing there is exquisite. Hard to imagine 'ol John (?) Fremont getting up the gumption to run the canyon in his rafts. Makes climbing seem tame in comparison.
Two words: "Dillingham Blues"..10.c (right beneath the bridge...can set an anchor right off the bridge and then do a 100 ft. swing from it...Yeeeeeeeeeeeee!)
Have fun! Go before it heats up!
Edit: And, if the water's low, "Slab Route 10.c" 3-pitch, 4-5 star route (the first pitch is .9+ and can be rapped if the next 2 pitches are too daunting- flaring dihedral with desparate cam placement if I recall correctly).
I'll see you there next year!
I have a few pics before the advent of digital cameras, I'll need to do some scanning...Please Stand By!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jun 15, 2009 - 12:19pm PT
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I hear there is a truly cool shoe down there, I think below dillingham blues, I've met it's mate.
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Porkchop_express
Trad climber
the base of the Shawangunk Ridge
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 15, 2009 - 12:31pm PT
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That swing made my stomach drop, big time. Looks fun, nevertheless.
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Dick_Lugar
Trad climber
Indiana (the other Mideast)
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Jun 15, 2009 - 12:32pm PT
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Must be the "troll" under the bridge...he likes to snatch the shoes off of unsuspecting climbers!
The only thing I've lost on that climb is my dignity...many, many times! LOL!
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Dick_Lugar
Trad climber
Indiana (the other Mideast)
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Jun 15, 2009 - 01:16pm PT
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Man, am I a sucka for WY climbing threads...shoulda been working but scanned pix's and labeled for 2 hrs. What a P.I.T.A.
Anyways, Steve...Do it! You have to put this place on your tick list. Over 300+ climbs from 30 ft. (Low Voltage Wall) to over 300 ft. (Power Tower/Zoo Station wall). As far as I know now, there's free camping all along the rim of the canyon from the bridge to Pathfinder Res. (Bur. of Rec.). We used to just camp in the parking lot at the bridge and be the only ones there-even on Memorial Day weekend! If not, fee camping at both Alcova or Pathfinder Reservoirs w/in mins. of the Canyon.
Time permitting, Dome Rock is about 20 mins away, really remote (even more than the Canyon if that's possible) and really fun! Check with Mtn. Sports in Casper (Kevin Siebke: keving@caspermtnsports.com) for road access to it. It's changed over the years and is a little tricky to avoid private land.
Get food and water in Casper before you head out there. There was a general store at the turnoff to Alcova, not sure if it's there anymore and selection there was always thin.
If you have any more questions, email me at the ST account. Be glad to answer them.
Frank
Canyon overview looking south from the bridge:
Did you see that fish? Sitting above "The Chief" 5.9. (Edit: This area is north of the bridge a 1/2 mile or so...)
Bushwaker 5.9...most excellent climb, on lead or T.R...that crack the climber is on is fingers/small hands...sweetness!: Edit: (Climber: Bryce Mitchell...Where are YOU Bryce?? It's been too long!..call me!)
Nowhere to run to baby, nowhere to hide...river directly below, heinous traverse out to the crack-Stoneking 5.9+:
Stoneking 5.9+
For kicks and giggles: (Wade Griffiths on traverse-Anybody from Boulder meet up with Wade yet? He's been there a couple years now, great guy, hardman climber!)
Edit: "Dillingham Blues 10.C" far right side, angling crack system directly underneath the bridge, white ledge...I think you can see Jaybro's shoe on the ledge??
My then 10 yr. old bro-in-law (now 22 yrs old and grad. of UW this year!...yikes!). Low Voltage wall, 10.A boulder move off the deck.
Low Voltage Wall-name of climb??? pretty obvious lines when you get there.
Weather or Not 5.8. My "non-climbing" wife pulling the roof. I think this was the climb that did it..she never climbed with me again (Edit: Roof not to scale...wife is 6'1" tall which makes it a tad bit easier to send!)
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Jun 15, 2009 - 01:21pm PT
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Great stuff DL!!!
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Logdog
Trad climber
Sierra Nevada
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Jun 15, 2009 - 01:22pm PT
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We spent a week there last fall, the place is super great. The only guidebook to the area is fairly poor, so finding some of the climbs can be tough. There are some SPLITTER climbs of very high quality! Hit up the Sweetwater Rocks while you're in the area for some amazing domes/ formations in total solitude.
-chuck
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Dick_Lugar
Trad climber
Indiana (the other Mideast)
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Jun 15, 2009 - 01:39pm PT
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Thanks Tking! We need to hook-up sometime. I think we're moving back to the "hood" next summer...
Yeah, Chuck...amazing place. Lankin Dome and Splitrock come to mind. I've climbed a couple routes on Lankin D. but not Splitrock. I believe you need to get landowner's permission to access it.
Frank
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Jun 15, 2009 - 01:48pm PT
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That'd be rad DL! Always cool to link up with new folks, and this area looks pretty stellar!
A ST gathering here would be cool too...
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Dick_Lugar
Trad climber
Indiana (the other Mideast)
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Jun 15, 2009 - 02:25pm PT
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Yep TKing, I was thinking the exact same thing. We need to get WY-ST coordinator on this one (Jaybro..nudge, nudge, wink, wink) or do it ourselves. We could link it together with the Boogaloo Jamboree somehow. I'm totally up for it...guess this means I need to dust the rack off and put new laces in me climbing shoes for 2010!
Edit: http://www.fremontcanyon.com/SLABAREA.html
Steve...The Slab Route is a hoot...do it!
Edit#2: Steve, you DO know about the ST Veedauwoo Bugaloo in Aug. right? YOu should link your trip to those dates whenever they come up with them.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=861546&msg=869343#msg869343
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Jun 15, 2009 - 04:47pm PT
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Devils Tower-Fremont Canyon-Vedauwoo trifecta!
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Dick_Lugar
Trad climber
Indiana (the other Mideast)
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Jun 15, 2009 - 04:57pm PT
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Yes, that would be a fine Trifecta indeed!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jun 15, 2009 - 05:03pm PT
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Done it! Took three (four?) days, I believe, Mike? Chris?
Haha, sounds very cool, in any case.
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Jun 15, 2009 - 05:12pm PT
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Looks like a logical link up...just need the time for it! A few days at each place would be pretty fun...then onto Idaho or Colorado...
August 2010: The Traveling Supertopo Circus!
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Dick_Lugar
Trad climber
Indiana (the other Mideast)
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Jun 15, 2009 - 05:13pm PT
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Nice Jay! I did it over a summer? (Honorable Mention?)
Edit: TKing...If I play my cards right, I should be "gainfully unemployed" in the summer of 2010 (fingers crossed!). Plenty of time to make up for lost climbing over the past 4 years!
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Porkchop_express
Trad climber
the base of the Shawangunk Ridge
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 15, 2009 - 05:17pm PT
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I will be coming through in late august- last week, if I really haul ass to get there. Anyone going to be around in Sept?
I really like the trifecta idea, since I was planning on hitting up DT on the way out too.
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Dick_Lugar
Trad climber
Indiana (the other Mideast)
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Jun 16, 2009 - 10:08am PT
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Another slow day in the office. A little history of the Fremont Canyo Climbing area.
Old, old school dudes 70's and 80's: Pat Parmenter, Kelly Moore, and Arno Ilgner. Pat was still climbing hard out at Fremont until his untimely passing away at the young age of 47 in 2001 or 2002 (non-climbing related). Not sure what came about of Kelly and Arno.
Old school dudes late 80's and 90's: Steve Petro, Steve Bechtel, and Kevin Siebke. Last I heard Petro is living in Europe with his wife. Bechtel is up in Lander, and Kevin is still holding court at the Canyon. I think Petro put up two of classics here at the Canyon: Wine and Roses (5.11), Fiddler on the Roof (5.13)...correct me if I'm wrong on that.
Young guns: Micah Rush and Colby Frontiero. Except I think both those guys are or are nearing 30 yrs. old!
Here's a couple pix lifted from Rockclimbing.com:
Dillingham Blues (5.10c)
Wine and Roses (5.11a)
EDIT: Please Note: Make sure you can lead 5.11a before you lower down, the swim out is a long one!
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Dick_Lugar
Trad climber
Indiana (the other Mideast)
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Jun 16, 2009 - 10:26am PT
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Cool TKing..I was wondering if that was the same Arno. Maybe he can post up with some Fremont Canyon history and stories?
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Mike Friedrichs
Sport climber
City of Salt
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Jun 16, 2009 - 03:23pm PT
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No tour of the Laramie range would be complete without a stop at this place...
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jun 16, 2009 - 04:04pm PT
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Are there snakes?
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August West
Trad climber
Where the wind blows strange
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Jun 16, 2009 - 04:15pm PT
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Of course there are snakes. Wind and rattlesnakes. What else does WY have?
I've been to there twice. First time just hiked around and second time climbed a bit. If you are looking to get a lot of climbing in a short period don't go there (at least not without a guide). If you are looking to explore an out of the way place that has some cool scenery, its a neat little area.
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Jun 16, 2009 - 04:17pm PT
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I love my Pearly Baker best, more than my wine.
sorry.
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Dick_Lugar
Trad climber
Indiana (the other Mideast)
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Jun 16, 2009 - 06:21pm PT
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Pearly Baker? Never heard of it. Is that a route at Fremont Canyon? What's it rated? ;)
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Jun 16, 2009 - 11:02pm PT
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I remember the article in a Climbing? mag many years ago with lots of Petro photos. Looks pretty sweet. Damn, I lugged all that memorabilia around for years and then purged it for a big move. I wish I could reverse that decision.
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Dick_Lugar
Trad climber
Indiana (the other Mideast)
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Jun 17, 2009 - 09:09am PT
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Yeah, bummer John, I hear those issues with Petro are like rare comic books...going for high $$$ on the black market!
I think there's a 2010 ST reunion in the making for Fremont. Start making plans now!
Frank
Edit: Crock-What is this "Hidden City" you make mention of? Sounds intriguing. You got any maps of hidden treasure?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jun 17, 2009 - 01:26pm PT
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always wanted to go. what's the latest you can climb there in the season?
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Dick_Lugar
Trad climber
Indiana (the other Mideast)
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Jun 17, 2009 - 01:33pm PT
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Thru mid-Octoberish isn't out of the question. Mid-Aug thru Sep is nice in between the snow showers.
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Bazo
Boulder climber
Ky
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Jun 17, 2009 - 01:47pm PT
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The one and only time I ever climbed there ( 1976? 75? ) I remember climbing this freestanding tower ( 5.6ish squeeze chimney ) then trying this crack with rattly chock stones on the other side of said tower. That failed due to poop in the pants..
Then we crossed the river on snot slick boulders and third classed up this not third class route up the other side..
Damn...what a day..
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Dick_Lugar
Trad climber
Indiana (the other Mideast)
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Jun 17, 2009 - 02:08pm PT
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LOL Bazo! sounds like "West Chimney, I, 5.5" on Fremont Pinnacle. Here's the description from the '83 guidebook:
1. Ascend short face and narrow chimney to the top. (80')
Protection: Difficult
I followed a couple routes on that thing. You probably did the "North Face of the Pinnacle, I, 5.9+"
1. Face climb up into a right facing corner. Ascend the corner to its top (80') (from '83 guidebook)
From the '94 version:
1. 3rd class from east side of the Pinnacle to ledge 15' above river, dihedral, w/finger/hand crack, 100'
Yep, poop factor high on that one!
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Bazo
Boulder climber
Ky
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Jun 17, 2009 - 02:24pm PT
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Heh heh..
5.5? well then it musta' been 5.6 wearing those blue suede RR's I had back then..
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Dick_Lugar
Trad climber
Indiana (the other Mideast)
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Jun 17, 2009 - 03:39pm PT
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Yep, that'd do it Bazo! I've got some Raichle Swiss Army Boots I've climbed in that easily made climbs 1 to 2 grades harder...
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Dick_Lugar
Trad climber
Indiana (the other Mideast)
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Jun 17, 2009 - 04:14pm PT
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Better make it '10 Crock...this year is highly up in the air, but I'll let you know if I can swing it this year.
That's right, the "Hidden City" is a climbing area...I like the sound of it already!
Edit: Crock...I like the sounds of '10, I'm gonna need a year to get back in some resemblance of climbing shape!
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Mike Friedrichs
Sport climber
City of Salt
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May 23, 2016 - 10:17am PT
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Haven't been since I think 1992. Weather looks okay so seems like a possibility for the holiday weekend. Hope I can remember how to find anything. Anyone been lately?
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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May 24, 2016 - 12:03pm PT
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Been a couple of years but I am sure you can find something to do over there. Check out Dome Rock too if you have a chance.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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May 24, 2016 - 06:41pm PT
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One climb I recommend highly is Greystoke; it's another "old school hardman" masterpiece by Kelly Moore and Arno Ilgner. Only 140 feet single lead, but the easy stuff at the bottom (5.9+) is only about 20 feet, the rest being at 5.10c/d and pretty continuous. It was my last serious climb in the canyon before my retirement from hardman activities.
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nature
climber
Boulder, CO
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Any recommendations on a camping spot for SushiFest in two weeks? I'm heading up today to scout it out.
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