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ohhyesss
Boulder climber
San Jose, California
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 10, 2009 - 02:43pm PT
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I will be in the valley next week and I am itching to lead. Any suggestions?? I am new to crack climbing and lovin it. Last weekend I led the first pitch of reeds direct and that was great, then got spanked following the second pitch, we also led stuff at the base of the captian. WOW yose ow is hard!!! But I am ready for a challenge.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Apr 10, 2009 - 02:55pm PT
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Uncle Fanny
Trial by Fire (if you have wide pro)
Copper Penny (top ropeable)
Keystone Corner
Five and Dime is next to these last two.
Sacherer, if you didn't already do it. #6 can be placed above the chockstone for the OW, but you still got about 3-4 moves to do before the lip is reachable.
just some that I've been on lately, so they are fresh in the brain.
Royal Perogative is a great one to do as well.
Y-Crack or Peruvian Flake at the Arches base
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
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Apr 10, 2009 - 02:58pm PT
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If you feel solid on 5.9 and placing pro the obvious first choice is Reed's Direct. Bring a camera as you will want to remember it. From there, the sky's the limit!
EDIT: Whoops! Just noticed your spanking! Okay, backtrack a bit on some of the other 5.7/8 recommendations and then get up there again. It is a great pitch!
Remember, Yosemite cracks are it. On granite they don't get better. People travel from the ends of the earth for the cracks and the walls. They will spank you and tease you and punish you but you will love every minute of it!
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rhyang
climber
SJC
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Apr 10, 2009 - 02:59pm PT
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I haven't done Uncle Fanny since 2005, but I thought it was rated 5.7 ..
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Apr 10, 2009 - 03:11pm PT
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yeah, but if you are new to wide cracks it will feel 5.8.
;)
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Domingo
Trad climber
El Portal, CA
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Apr 10, 2009 - 03:29pm PT
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Bishop's Terrace
If you've got aliens, the first pitch of Serenity
Peruvian Flake: short and sweet with only a few rough moves
A ton of things at Pat + Jack
If you don't mind hiking, Higher Spire and Arrowhead Arete are both amazing...
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Apr 10, 2009 - 03:35pm PT
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from
http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/yos/YOSTYP.HTM
List of Routes by Type
Thin Crack ( < 1")
794. Pine Line 5.7 **
440. Chicken Pie 5.9 **
461. Drop your Heel or Sure to Peel 5.9
1100. Absolutely Free - Left Side 5.9
1158. Doggie Deviations 5.9 **
1249. Grant's Crack 5.9 *
1366. Jamcrack Route 5.9 **
1440. Arrowhead Arete 5.9 **
1875. Shuttle Madness 5.9 *
1974. Son of Sam 5.9
2201. Phantom Pinnacle - Regular Route 5.9 *
2519. I Don't Remember 5.9
2513. Eat at Degan's 5.9+ *
146. Dynamite Crack 5.10a
172. Beverly's Tower 5.10a **
185. Cookie Center p1 right 5.10a
329. Desperate Straights 5.10a *
497. Siberian Swarm Screw 5.10a *
643. Sex, Drugs and Violence 5.10a
766. Sacherer Cracker 5.10a ***
785. Moby Dick - Center 5.10a ***
1111. Koko Ledge - Right 5.10a
1127. Rixon's Pinnacle - East Chimney 5.10a *
1164. un C4W 5.10a
1287. Surprise Direct Finish 5.10a
1464. Revival 5.10a *
1512. Serenity Crack p1 5.10a
1562. Y Crack 5.10a *
2280. Fifty Crowded Variation 5.10a *
2442. Drop-out 5.10a *
2621. Lost Error 5.10a
3. Vanderbilt-Gledhill 5.10b
66. Midterm 5.10b ***
157. Outer Limits p1 5.10b ***
202. Cleft p1 left var. 5.10b
321. Knob Job 5.10b *
341. Gay Bob's 5.10b
558. Flatus p1 flake var. 5.10b
635. Hey Walt 5.10b
679. Leisure Time 5.10b *
1196. Avalon 5.10b *
1306. Eclipse 5.10b
1555. Krovy Rookers 5.10b
1775. Half Dome - Salathe' Route 5.10b R *
1859. Plane Fare 5.10b *
1873. Synapse Collapse 5.10b *
2017. Doggie Submission 5.10b *
2062. Heathenistic Pursuit 5.10b **
2238. Steal This Book 5.10b
2277. No Butts About It 5.10b
2493. The Sermon 5.10b **
245. Not What it Seams (2) 5.10
1457. Black is Brown Direct Crack 5.10
64. English Breakfast Crack 5.10c *
73. Voyage 5.10c *
110. Snatch Power 5.10c *
319. Sherrie's Crack 5.10c **
342. Tricky Fingers 5.10c
637. Turning Point 5.10c *
678. Honor Thy Father 5.10c *
777. Hardly Pinnacle - Right 5.10c *
1126. Rixon's Pinnacle - East Chimney - Klemens var. 5.10c
1200. Seaside 5.10c *
1307. Blackout 5.10c
1363. Bummer 5.10c *
1592. Anorexia Crack 5.10c
1811. Gravity's Rainbow 5.10c
1973. Lonely Dancer 5.10c
1983. Mr. Natural 5.10c ***
2045. Mr. Clean 5.10c
2286. Sacherer-Fredericks 5.10c
2490. Original Sin 5.10c
2611. MB b 5.10c
106. Finger Lickin' 5.10d ***
223. Terminator - Right 5.10d *
343. Brainbucket 5.10d
369. White Cloud 5.10d
418. Humdinger 5.10d *
510. Olga's Trick 5.10d *
681. Little Wing 5.10d **
765. The Slack - Center 5.10d
967. Supertoe 5.10d
1338. Ten Years After 5.10d ***
1364. Lazy Bum 5.10d **
1514. Serenity Crack 5.10d ***
1516. Daughters' Direct 5.10+
1977. Dr. Feel Good 5.10d *
2146. Vanishing Point 5.10d **
2161. Manana 5.10d **
[edited to move Central Pillar of Frenzy p9 to 5.10d face]
2394. Tidbit 5.10d *
2431. The Thief 5.10d **
621. Mighty Crunchy 5.10d/5.11a *
Thin Hand (1"-1.25")
1248. Bay Tree Crack 5.6
8. Woody Woodpecker 5.9
183. Cookie Center p1 5.9
1101. Absolutely Free - Center Route 5.9 **
1503. Super Slide 5.9 *
2296. Central Pillar of Frenzy p1-5 5.9 ***
406. Said and Done - Left 5.10a
1515. Sons of Yesterday 5.10a ***
563. Stone Groove 5.10b **
1641. Jojo 5.10b **
1703. Back to the Slammer 5.10b **
303. Through Bein' Cool 5.10c *
552. Lunatic Fringe 5.10c ***
2157. Unagi 5.10c
2610. MB a 5.10c
204. Catchy 5.10d ***
421. Cramming 5.10d ***
573. Independence Pinnacle - Center 5.10d *
589. Five and Dime 5.10d ***
Hand
1259. Hanging Flake 5.6 *
1481. Sacrilege p1 5.6
1900. Grack - Center 5.6 ***
2150. The Bay Bush 5.6
213. The Enigma p1 5.7 * [added]
452. Pot Belly 5.7 *
551. Lunatic Fringe p1 5.7
1254. Penelope's Problem 5.7 *
4. Hayley Anna 5.8 *
161. Elevator Shaft 5.8 R *
256. flake arete 5.8
320. Nurdle 5.8 *
462. Side Swipped 5.8
534. RPR p1 L corner var. 5.8
576. Ejesta 5.8
666. The Dove 5.8
782. Little John - Right 5.8 ***
1365. Jamcrack p1 5.8 **
1479. Bishop's Terrace 5.8 ***
57. Application 5.9
169. Meat Grinder p1 5.9 **
180. Cookie - Left p1 var. 5.9
188. Cookie - Right 5.9 **
196. Infraction 5.9
472. Arlington Heights 5.9 *
531. Reed's Pinnacle - Direct p1-2 5.9 ***
533. Reed's Pinnacle - Regular Route 5.9 ***
610. Fluke 5.9
619. Grape Nuts 5.9 *
1060. Commissioner Buttress 5.9 *
1157. Doggie Diversions 5.9 *
1233. Penthouse Crack b 5.9+
111. Jaw Bone 5.10a *
195. Vendetta p5 center var. 5.10a
577. Porter's Pout 5.10a
620. Euellogy 5.10a *
636. Highway Star 5.10a *
639. Tiger's Paw 5.10a A1
1093. Maple Jam 5.10a *
1166. Henley Quits 5.10a **
1452. A-5 Pinnacle 5.10a
2111. Resurrection 5.10a *
2158. Hara-kiri 5.10a *
2235. Higher Cathedral Spire - East Corner 5.10a *
2500. Open Trench 5.10a
2522. Cartwheel 5.10a
2583. Eagle 5.10a
68. Gripper 5.10b ***
112. Pinky Paralysis (short) 5.10b **
139. Cat Fight 5.10b *
197. Anathema 5.10b **
437. Strangers in the Night 5.10b
444. Shake, Rattle and Drop 5.10b *
725. The Lionheart 5.10b
2547. The Rostrum - Lower Half 5.10b **
127. Hand Out 5.10c
480. Dromedary Direct 5.10c
501. Polymorphous Perverse 5.10c
667. Eagle Feather 5.10c *
1626. Jesu Joy 5.10c *
2248. Book of Job 5.10c *
2472. Castaways 5.10c *
2523. Monkey Do 5.10c
2618. Straight Error 5.10c **
Fist
456. Anti-Ego Crack 5.7 *
148. Twinkie p1 5.8
257. fist corner 5.8
540. Bongs Away - Left 5.8 *
561. RORP p2 direct flare var. 5.8
53. Dirty Little Secret 5.9
548. face to flaring corner 5.9
557. Flatus 5.9 *
565. Stone fist 5.9
1168. Lancelot 5.9 *
2563. Loyd's Return Trip 5.9 *
80. Skateaway 5.10a
85. Quickie Quizzes - L 5.10a *
108. Pandora's Box 5.10a
114. Health Insurance 5.10a
1011. Mr. Happy 5.10a
128. Cross-Train Crack 5.10b
569. Independent Route 5.10b *
170. Meat Grinder 5.10c **
2420. Bridalveil East 5.10c **
1744. Final Exam 5.10d ***
2022. Wide Thing 5.10d *
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
Lake Oswego, Oregon
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Apr 10, 2009 - 03:39pm PT
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Harry Daley might still be a bit cool but a nice warm up. Moby Dick is a great one. The move off the ground is the crux but that does not mean the crack above is for gym rats. Sunnyside is a clean, fun happy route. Like I said... there are just too many to pick from!
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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Apr 10, 2009 - 03:55pm PT
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Clint, are those your star ratings?
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
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Apr 10, 2009 - 03:59pm PT
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hahaha Nice list, Clint. Some I disagree with tho. More about how a climb is classified, rather than the ratings.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Apr 10, 2009 - 03:59pm PT
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I don't know how long you'll be in the Valley, but if it warms up, Pharoah's Beard is a good intro to offwidths. Peter Pan varies from hands on the second pitch to an ever-widening crack and, eventually, a squeeze chimney, and is at a rather scenic location on El Cap. It's much harder than Pharoah's Beard, though. Hope you have a great stay.
John
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Apr 10, 2009 - 04:42pm PT
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le_bruce,
> are those your star ratings?
Not really - they are mostly stolen from the 1994 Reid guide.
I have changed just a few of them. And new routes I usually leave unstarred.
Randy,
> hahaha Nice list, Clint. Some I disagree with tho. More about how a climb is classified, rather than the ratings.
Any particular in mind? I change it on a regular basis.
One of the problems of choosing a type is that sometimes most of the moves on a pitch are one type, but then the crux is a different type.
In theory I try to list the type of crux move, but I might have it wrong sometimes.
Kevin,
> Don't see the Enigma (5.9) on there - it's a pretty cool introduction to the Cookie cliff.
Good point - I have added it. (Pitch 1, 5.7 double crack).
I have the main route classified as a 5.10a lieback.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno
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Apr 10, 2009 - 05:19pm PT
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Ahhh... Makes a lot more sense when I consider they are listed by crux... I was thinking more about stuff like Outer Limits, that if asked, I'd say is mostly a hand crack. Gripper (mostly chimney technique), etc. That type of stuff. I like your classifications (by crux) tho.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Apr 10, 2009 - 07:26pm PT
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OK, here are liebacks, ows, and chimneys:
Lieback and Undercling
1247. Oak Tree Flake 5.6 *
1239. un SS b 5.7
2415. Overhang Bypass 5.7 **
1052. Nutcracker Lieback Start 5.8 *
1462. Church Bowl Lieback 5.8 *
249. Corn Corner 5.9
408. Said and Done - Right 5.9
754. Captain Hook - Right 5.9
774. La Cosita - Right 5.9 ***
1095. Positively 4th Street 5.9 **
1267. Lena's Lieback 5.9 *
1283. Commitment 5.9 **
1685. Eric's Book 5.9
213. The Enigma 5.10a **
344. Babble On 5.10a
727. Nottingham 5.10a
792. Pterodactyl Terrace - Left 5.10a R
1109. Koko Ledge - Left 5.10a
1112. Koko Ledge - Far Right 5.10a
1232. Penthouse Crack a 5.10a
1317. Lightweight Guides 5.10a
1529. Peruvian Flake 5.10a *
1567. Wise Crack 5.10a *
2304. Pee Pee Pillar 5.10a **
2518. I Don't Know 5.10a
2560. Static Cling 5.10a *
297. Uncertain Ending 5.10b *
523. The Remnant - Left Side 5.10b
959. Proud Snapper 5.10b **
1332. Nanbeeb 5.10b
1603. The Plank 5.10b
2116. Sixth Heaven 5.10b *
56. Supplication 5.10c *
174. Waverly Wafer 5.10c ***
176. Wheat Thin 5.10c ***
214. Ramp of Deception 5.10c **
776. Hardly Pinnacle - Left 5.10c *
1020. Chow Chow Chow 5.10c *
1026. The Dihardral 5.10c *
1064. Split Pinnacle Lieback 5.10c
1143. Young and the Restless 5.10c
1148. Chopper 5.10c *
1171. Gillette 5.10c *
1627. Wing of Bat 5.10c *
2106. Dorn's Crack 5.10c A0
2400. Sub-Mission 5.10c *
2404. End of the Line 5.10c **
2615. Reality Check 5.10c *
307. Scorpion Man 5.10d
648. Shattered 5.10d
767. The Mark of Art 5.10d **
1140. The Good Book 5.10d ***
Offwidth
966. Supertoe Left 5.7
775. Little John - Left 5.8 *
1061. True Grit 5.8
9. Sawyer Crack 5.9
288. Moss O Menos 5.9
305. Prime Time 5.9
638. Side Kick 5.9
770. La Cosita - Left Variation 5.9 *
1015. Sow Sow Sow p1 5.9
1979. Apron Jam 5.9 *
2087. Tithe 5.9
2152. Tilted Mitten - Center 5.9
2156. The Sphinxter 5.9
2164. The Mummy's Revenge 5.9
2545. Bridwell Corner 5.9 *
201. The Cleft 5.9+ R *
744. Peter Pan 5.9+ *
153. Banana Dreams 5.10a
182. Cookie - Left 5.10a
413. This and That p1 5.10a *
496. Mongolian Clusterf*#k 5.10a R
516. Chingando 5.10a *
527. Reed's Pinnacle - Left Side 5.10a *
541. Bongs Away - Center 5.10a
588. Copper Penny 5.10a *
730. The Hourglass - Right Side 5.10a
808. Gollum - Left Side 5.10a
982. Orange Juice Avenue 5.10a *
1016. Sow Sow Sow 5.10a
1153. Secret Storm 5.10a *
1156. Doggie Do 5.10a
1415. Geek Towers - Center Route 5.10a
1417. Geek Towers - Right Side 5.10a A2
1878. Milk Dud 5.10a
2160. Yin-Yang p2 5.10a
2628. Pink Dream 5.10a ***
2632. Crack of Doom 5.10a *
2633. Crack of Despair 5.10a *
1103. Absolutely Free - Right Side 5.10a R/X
192. Vendetta 5.10b *
292. Strategery 5.10b
764. The Slack - Left Side 5.10b
995. Dick Wrenching Classic 5.10b
1202. Smoky Pillar 5.10b
2491. Pulpit Pooper 5.10b *
2521. Jam Session 5.10b *
293. Armbar Province 5.10 A1
747. Peter Left 5.10b/c *
2557. Battle-Ship 5.10
194. Vendetta p5 left var. 5.10c
426. Generator Crack 5.10c TR *
664. Wild Turkey 5.10c *
1152. Edge of Night 5.10c *
1175. Fallout 5.10c
2155. Mental Block 5.10c **
2434. Barefoot Servants 5.10c
81. The Bin 5.10d *
94. Extra Credit 5.10d
164. Twilight Zone 5.10d **
483. The Shaft 5.10d
574. Steppin' Out 5.10d **
Chimney
316. Gilligan's Chicken p1 5.4
512. The Iota 5.4
555. Lunatic chimney 5.4
1246. Swan Slab Chimney 5.5
529. Reed's Pinnacle - flake chimney start 5.6
1252. un SS j 5.6
244. Capital Punishment 5.7
313. Pat Pinnacle 5.7
464. Chimney Sweep 5.7
525. The Remnant - Right Side 5.7
609. Mojo chimney flake 5.7
1245. Swan Slab Squeeze 5.7
1461. Uncle Fanny 5.7 *
189. The Cookie - Original 5.8
1063. Split Pinnacle - East Arete 5.8 **
1507. Trial by Fire 5.8
2086. Chockblock Chimney 5.8
2153. Tilted Mitten - Right Side 5.8 *
60. Entrance Exam 5.9 *
179. Cookie - Left p1 5.9
184. Cookie Center 5.9 R *
405. Whim 5.9
724. Chockstone Chimney 5.9
784. Moby Dick - Left 5.9 *
2137. Steck-Salathe 5.9 **
2151. Tilted Mitten - Left Side 5.9
2171. Boulderfield Gorge 5.9
380. Free Press 5.10a **
499. Hand Job 5.10a
532. Reed's Pinnacle - Direct p3 5.10a *
596. The Reception 5.10a
680. The Riddler 5.10a *
1862. Fresh Squeezed 5.10a
2630. Worst Error - Right Side 5.10a *
786. Ahab 5.10b *
44. Narrow Escape 5.10c
149. Twinkie 5.10c
1605. 10.96 5.10d **
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TKW
Trad climber
Currently Nomadic
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Apr 10, 2009 - 07:53pm PT
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I'd say regular route of higher spire is one of the most fun routes I've ever done. While you're there don't forget Braille Book either.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Apr 10, 2009 - 08:53pm PT
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> After 7
It is nice. I have it listed as a 5.8 face, because I thought that was the type of crux climbing. Ditto for Nutcracker.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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Apr 11, 2009 - 02:05am PT
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The Surprise is very nice. Mostly finger size, well protected.
just a little bit harder than the 5.9 start to the Nutcracker.
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nutjob
climber
Berkeley, CA
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Sep 24, 2009 - 04:48pm PT
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If there was a sticky thread feature, this one should be on it. Or maybe I just need to finally put a link to Clint's site on my browser instead of relying on google to find it for me.
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SuperTopo on the Web
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After 7, first pitch. Beautiful, clean 5.8 crack. Great one to finish off the day.
Let us know!