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Wack
climber
Dazevue
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Sep 24, 2009 - 07:00pm PT
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Werner's Crack 5.7
Oops it fell off a few years ago.
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storer
Trad climber
Golden, Colorado
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Sep 24, 2009 - 09:31pm PT
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Don't forget Pharoah's Beard, all routes.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
ticking up the good holds on After 6
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Sep 24, 2009 - 09:42pm PT
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Absolutely Free.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
The Great North these days......
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Sep 24, 2009 - 10:41pm PT
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did I miss gripper?
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snaps10
Mountain climber
Visalia, CA
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Sep 25, 2009 - 12:27am PT
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I didn't read the list, cuz I'm too lazy. But I love Central Pillar of Frenzy.
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wee man
Trad climber
truckee ca
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Sep 25, 2009 - 12:40am PT
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if you are just cragging or taking a down day from big routes chicken pie at new diversions sounds like it would be perfect for you confidence builder -warm up then check out new diversions if you feel solid ,all time classic
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Sep 25, 2009 - 12:59am PT
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How do you "handle " the first pitch of Reeds and get spanked on the second?.....The second has rest's all over the place( bring a ghetto Blaster) and the a short .8 ish ow, The first is more technical albeit still under tree line. Sounds like you need to do both pitches of Jam crack and La cosita R side ...To start. Then Maybe Little john R side and the second pitch of the north face of Fairview, one of the best .8 pitches in the world when linked.
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mongrel
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Sep 25, 2009 - 03:32pm PT
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ohhyess, if you "climb by the stars" on Clint's lists, you'll have a ton of fun. Plenty of the one and two-star climbs on them are great. Bear in mind that the crux move or section might be one type of crack, and the hardest part of the pitch or climb to actually pull off might be another (Outer Limits p.1 is a well-known example: it's the long section of steep hands that gets most people, not the rattly fingers move low down). Start easier and work up the classics. For example, R. side of Little John is an excellent, great adventure, but not everyone finds the 5.8 first pitch to be all that easy, sometimes, not the last 5.7 pitch either. And there you are at the rap anchor and can toprope the slippery 5.8 OW left side. Some people think that's tough for 5.8 too (hard part is very short). Enjoy!!
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Sep 25, 2009 - 03:42pm PT
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Mark - with small hands, it's easy to cruise the first pitch and get spanked by the 2nd.
Small meaning smaller than normal sized, and since your mitts are twice normal size, I guess I should say "tiny hands" for you - although to me "tiny hands" usually means tiny girl hands that can hand jam 0.75 camalot cracks...
And since this thread is a few months old - what routes did the original poster do on their trip to Yosemite?
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