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Russ Walling

Novice climber
Honolulu
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 4, 2001 - 01:34pm PT
Have any women, and I mean women *genetically* done of that ego driven spped climbing stuff in Yosemite that is worth note? ElCap, Half Dome, etc in a matter of minutes or giant linkups. If so who, if not why? Does not count if they went with a guy. Names and numbers will be fine for this exercise.
toodles,
Russ
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Oct 5, 2001 - 10:29pm PT
The only speed ascent I can think of is Abby Watkins and Vera Wong doing the Nose in 16:30 (according to speedclimb.com).

I don't think it is much of a surprise that women don't speed climb much. Non-speed big wall climbing, alpine climbing and manual labor also lack many female participants. It seems that women just don't share the same passion for mindless suffering that men do.
Russ Walling

Novice climber
Boise, Id.
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2001 - 04:16am PT
>>I don't think it is much of a surprise that women don't
>>speed climb much. Non-speed big wall climbing,
>>alpine climbing and manual labor also lack many
>>female participants. It seems that women just don't
>>share the same passion for mindless suffering that
>>men do.

Wait..... I've heard this before..... they are down on the mindless suffering because they are saving the giant juice for childbirth. I get it now. Suffering with a purpose is that game the women play. Us men just suffer for fun. hmmmmm..... I'll retire to my study and ponder this.
yours in thought,
Russ
katie

Advanced climber
paul smiths NY
Oct 17, 2001 - 05:07pm PT
Ah, I have not done any speed ascents as of yet, but I think it is safe to say that women don't save up the pain for the big birth experience. Please! Maybe there are less numbers of women doing the speed ascents on big walls, but in general there are less women doing big walls than men and that may have something to do with it. Give us time, maybe that will change. I just did my first two big walls, and I am hooked. I want to do a route out here (DAKS)called Mental Blocks, in November, and the suffering will be pretty high. SO that argument is just bunk.....imo.....
nature

climber
Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 28, 2005 - 12:24am PT
Now we got Doctor Fish the Novice climber. I almost spit my popcorn on my screen at this one.

And intersting link. The first links...
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/forum.html?f=4176&b=0#forum

Man... this place was hoping back in the stoner age! look at that one link with nine, COUNT 'EM, NINE posts!
Russ Walling

Social climber
Bishop is DEAD, long live JT
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2005 - 01:48am PT
Novice? Son, I haven't been a novice at *anything* since the '70's.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Jan 28, 2005 - 02:26am PT
From Hans' site

Nose
12:15 Heidi Wertz and Vera Shulte-Pelcum. June 2004

Half Dome NW Face

5:25 Heidi Wertz and Vera Shulte-Pelcum.  June 200

Peace

karl
Buzzardboy

Trad climber
Lancaster, PA
Jan 28, 2005 - 08:01am PT
Edit: see above! Karl must have been posting at the same time I was...


Didn't Heidi Wertz and another woman (her name eludes me) do the HD-El Cap link up this past year?
nature

climber
Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 28, 2005 - 10:26am PT
That's one reason why I found your post sorta funny, Russ. *You* labeled yourself "Novice Climber". From: Honolulu. See? You were also an "MD", an "Esquire", and a host of other things and a host of other things back in the supertaco's stoneage...
Russ Walling

Social climber
Bishop is DEAD, long live JT
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2005 - 11:17am PT
Oh... I get it now.... yep, back in the day you could or had to log in each time (if memory serves) with your name/location etc. I used Fargo a time or two, I was an MD, an ESQ and who knows what else. Ahhhh... the good olde days. Just trying to fill out a hollow, shallow life with a bit of fun.
nature

climber
Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 28, 2005 - 11:50am PT
Yeah... the thread on Haul Anchor Advice shows you from Fargo..
Russ Walling

Social climber
This ain't Tijuana
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2006 - 05:10pm PT
Since about 5 plus years have passed since this post I wondered if there are any more replies available besides just me and Nature kicking it around. 2001..!!! when was that again??
burp

Trad climber
Salt Lake City
Feb 15, 2006 - 05:35pm PT
you called?
Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Feb 15, 2006 - 07:04pm PT
Why doesn't it count if the woman is with a guy? Does a guy's time count if he is with a woman?
Russ Walling

Social climber
This ain't Tijuana
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2006 - 07:37pm PT
C'mon Missy... everyone knows that any BF will do the lions share up there.... it must be women only if it is going to count.

And if a guy does some speed deal with a woman, it counts for the guy, but not for the woman.
susan peplow

climber
area 29
Feb 15, 2006 - 07:39pm PT
Where's Jobee? Didn't she do the shield with some girl? Pretty fast time as I recall. Or was that lil Sue?

susan peplow

climber
area 29
Feb 15, 2006 - 07:40pm PT
Please spare me about my previous post of "some girl" I mean that with the upmost respect....I just don't remember the name.

Some bad ass hard core lady!

guyman

Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
Feb 15, 2006 - 07:58pm PT
Russ, have you forgotten the good old days, like the seventies, when the ratio of boys to girls in climbing was like 99/1? It’s like 70/30 now days I reckon. I don’t know about speed records but I was on the OPEN BOOK a while back when I hear this female voice yelling from below. “hey grandpa we are gona pass you, OK?” Looking down I see this fine, fit, tan, strong and blond young lady just burning up the first pitch. She passes up the belay and keeps going and pretty soon another fine, fit, tan, strong, dark, haired babe who is simul climbing also passes me. By the time I got to the top they had vanished so I guess you could figure they beat my time…… :>)

One of the best things to have hit climbing in the last ¼ century is the women..IMHO.
Russ Walling

Social climber
This ain't Tijuana
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2006 - 08:06pm PT
Yo Guy! (last I saw you was in the 70's!!!)

In the 70's/baby 80's it was Lynne, Jessica, Sybilla and then the rest of the world. Must have been 2000 to 1... wait... Mari and Mariah too.... could probably toss Bullwinkle in there too.

Man, times are changing. I have my personal sport rope gun now who is a woman... (hi Susan) I still get all the 3" and up stuff, but down in the Gorge I get led around like twice neutered pommeranian.
Holdplease2

Big Wall climber
Yosemite area
Feb 15, 2006 - 08:13pm PT
Somebody once told me that if a guy does a speed ascent with a woman, he actually gets to multiply his time by 0.773, for the handicap.

...and that was the last thing he got to say on this sweet earth without a lisp. ;)

-Kate.
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