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Russ Walling
Novice climber
Honolulu
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 4, 2001 - 01:34pm PT
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Have any women, and I mean women *genetically* done of that ego driven spped climbing stuff in Yosemite that is worth note? ElCap, Half Dome, etc in a matter of minutes or giant linkups. If so who, if not why? Does not count if they went with a guy. Names and numbers will be fine for this exercise.
toodles,
Russ
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Russ Walling
Novice climber
Boise, Id.
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2001 - 04:16am PT
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>>I don't think it is much of a surprise that women don't
>>speed climb much. Non-speed big wall climbing,
>>alpine climbing and manual labor also lack many
>>female participants. It seems that women just don't
>>share the same passion for mindless suffering that
>>men do.
Wait..... I've heard this before..... they are down on the mindless suffering because they are saving the giant juice for childbirth. I get it now. Suffering with a purpose is that game the women play. Us men just suffer for fun. hmmmmm..... I'll retire to my study and ponder this.
yours in thought,
Russ
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katie
Advanced climber
paul smiths NY
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Oct 17, 2001 - 05:07pm PT
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Ah, I have not done any speed ascents as of yet, but I think it is safe to say that women don't save up the pain for the big birth experience. Please! Maybe there are less numbers of women doing the speed ascents on big walls, but in general there are less women doing big walls than men and that may have something to do with it. Give us time, maybe that will change. I just did my first two big walls, and I am hooked. I want to do a route out here (DAKS)called Mental Blocks, in November, and the suffering will be pretty high. SO that argument is just bunk.....imo.....
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Jan 28, 2005 - 12:24am PT
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Now we got Doctor Fish the Novice climber. I almost spit my popcorn on my screen at this one.
And intersting link. The first links...
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/forum.html?f=4176&b=0#forum
Man... this place was hoping back in the stoner age! look at that one link with nine, COUNT 'EM, NINE posts!
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Bishop is DEAD, long live JT
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2005 - 01:48am PT
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Novice? Son, I haven't been a novice at *anything* since the '70's.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Jan 28, 2005 - 02:26am PT
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From Hans' site
Nose
12:15 Heidi Wertz and Vera Shulte-Pelcum. June 2004
Half Dome NW Face
5:25 Heidi Wertz and Vera Shulte-Pelcum. June 200
Peace
karl
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Buzzardboy
Trad climber
Lancaster, PA
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Jan 28, 2005 - 08:01am PT
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Edit: see above! Karl must have been posting at the same time I was...
Didn't Heidi Wertz and another woman (her name eludes me) do the HD-El Cap link up this past year?
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Jan 28, 2005 - 10:26am PT
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That's one reason why I found your post sorta funny, Russ. *You* labeled yourself "Novice Climber". From: Honolulu. See? You were also an "MD", an "Esquire", and a host of other things and a host of other things back in the supertaco's stoneage...
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Bishop is DEAD, long live JT
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 28, 2005 - 11:17am PT
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Oh... I get it now.... yep, back in the day you could or had to log in each time (if memory serves) with your name/location etc. I used Fargo a time or two, I was an MD, an ESQ and who knows what else. Ahhhh... the good olde days. Just trying to fill out a hollow, shallow life with a bit of fun.
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Jan 28, 2005 - 11:50am PT
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Yeah... the thread on Haul Anchor Advice shows you from Fargo..
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Russ Walling
Social climber
This ain't Tijuana
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2006 - 05:10pm PT
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Since about 5 plus years have passed since this post I wondered if there are any more replies available besides just me and Nature kicking it around. 2001..!!! when was that again??
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burp
Trad climber
Salt Lake City
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Feb 15, 2006 - 05:35pm PT
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you called?
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Feb 15, 2006 - 07:04pm PT
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Why doesn't it count if the woman is with a guy? Does a guy's time count if he is with a woman?
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Russ Walling
Social climber
This ain't Tijuana
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2006 - 07:37pm PT
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C'mon Missy... everyone knows that any BF will do the lions share up there.... it must be women only if it is going to count.
And if a guy does some speed deal with a woman, it counts for the guy, but not for the woman.
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susan peplow
climber
area 29
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Feb 15, 2006 - 07:39pm PT
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Where's Jobee? Didn't she do the shield with some girl? Pretty fast time as I recall. Or was that lil Sue?
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susan peplow
climber
area 29
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Feb 15, 2006 - 07:40pm PT
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Please spare me about my previous post of "some girl" I mean that with the upmost respect....I just don't remember the name.
Some bad ass hard core lady!
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Feb 15, 2006 - 07:58pm PT
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Russ, have you forgotten the good old days, like the seventies, when the ratio of boys to girls in climbing was like 99/1? It’s like 70/30 now days I reckon. I don’t know about speed records but I was on the OPEN BOOK a while back when I hear this female voice yelling from below. “hey grandpa we are gona pass you, OK?” Looking down I see this fine, fit, tan, strong and blond young lady just burning up the first pitch. She passes up the belay and keeps going and pretty soon another fine, fit, tan, strong, dark, haired babe who is simul climbing also passes me. By the time I got to the top they had vanished so I guess you could figure they beat my time…… :>)
One of the best things to have hit climbing in the last ¼ century is the women..IMHO.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
This ain't Tijuana
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2006 - 08:06pm PT
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Yo Guy! (last I saw you was in the 70's!!!)
In the 70's/baby 80's it was Lynne, Jessica, Sybilla and then the rest of the world. Must have been 2000 to 1... wait... Mari and Mariah too.... could probably toss Bullwinkle in there too.
Man, times are changing. I have my personal sport rope gun now who is a woman... (hi Susan) I still get all the 3" and up stuff, but down in the Gorge I get led around like twice neutered pommeranian.
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Holdplease2
Big Wall climber
Yosemite area
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Feb 15, 2006 - 08:13pm PT
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Somebody once told me that if a guy does a speed ascent with a woman, he actually gets to multiply his time by 0.773, for the handicap.
...and that was the last thing he got to say on this sweet earth without a lisp. ;)
-Kate.
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guyman
Trad climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Feb 15, 2006 - 08:19pm PT
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Russ, I saw you leaving the george one time....We be doing well.
This is a pretty good site, the SM stories really jog the memory banks. Next time we be going to Bishop I will bring some beer.
Remember Misa? She still jumps off of the couch every now and then...cranks 11's still.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Feb 15, 2006 - 08:25pm PT
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The only time that I can recall being passed on a route, I was aid climbing...with ladders and full wall regalia...as a woman and her partner simulclimbed (free) around me. I'll bet he wished he was her boyfriend, although I don't think that he was. As for who was working the hardest up there, if time on a pitch is any indicator of struggle, it was probably me. It seemed pretty effortless for them.
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Holdplease2
Big Wall climber
Yosemite area
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Feb 15, 2006 - 08:28pm PT
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The only thing I've ever passed on a route was my pigs when I was going the wrong way at terminal velocity. Twice. Ugh.
-Kate.
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up2top
Big Wall climber
Phoenix, AZ
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Feb 15, 2006 - 10:04pm PT
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Kate, is that "lisp" or "limp?" Or both?
Ed
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Holdplease2
Big Wall climber
Yosemite area
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Feb 15, 2006 - 10:07pm PT
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You'd know better than I, Ed...
;)
-Kate.
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WoodyS
Trad climber
Riverside
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Feb 15, 2006 - 10:18pm PT
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Few women bother to speedclimb because they know that sooner or later the overpowering need to stop and complain about husbands or boyfriends will interrupt their effort.
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Holdplease2
Big Wall climber
Yosemite area
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Feb 15, 2006 - 10:33pm PT
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Still other women can hardly resist the urge, as they just want to get back to the deck so that they can give they guy grief to his face.
That, and any simulclimbing that occurs with the guy in the lead is really just him trying to get away. I predict many speed ascents of this type in the future.
-Kate.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Feb 15, 2006 - 10:37pm PT
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You've flown past your pigs twice?! What was the other time??
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WoodyS
Trad climber
Riverside
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Feb 15, 2006 - 10:38pm PT
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Holdplease,
Hilarious!!!
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Holdplease2
Big Wall climber
Yosemite area
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Feb 15, 2006 - 10:43pm PT
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10 Days After (Washington Column)...I hadn't checked the topo and thought the chimney to the left at the base of the second to last pitch was the 5.7 on the last pitch, so I started up.
Brilliantly, with no pro I fell OUT of the chimney, decked onto the ledge, then factor 2ed onto the anchor. (softened, because of the ledge of course.)
Yes, ladies and gentlemen, I can, in fact, fall out of a squeeze chimney.
I also went below the pigs when I fell off of a ledge trying to change shoes getting ready to free climb on Lunar X in zion. "Sandy, dicy, mandatory 5.8 free." F-that, never again.
Hey, I never claimed to be good at this.
-Kate.
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bringmedeath
climber
la la land
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Feb 15, 2006 - 10:47pm PT
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The number of chicks that could go faster than me on the nose is numerous! Something more like ST A3/4ish, well I'm still trying to think what chick teams have done pushes on those. Oh well, I hope some girl will do it soon. Anyone chicks out there thinking about it? I'd be stoked to see it happen, super stoked!
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Ditch Trad
Trad climber
CA
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Feb 15, 2006 - 10:48pm PT
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happens to the best of them (falling out of a squeeze). I used to train wide specifically for a few 'trade' routes and long free climbs.
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alik
Big Wall climber
edmonton
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Feb 16, 2006 - 12:34am PT
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Erica was damn fast. In 2004 she got really psyched on pushing walls, and pushed zodiac, t-trip, eagles way, NA wall, the shield, and the realm of the flying monkeys. Those are just the ones she told me about, so there were probably more. I don't think that she ever pushed anything really hard, but I'm sure that if she had been given more time she would have. She didn't do any pushes with other women, but this was because there weren't any women around who could keep up with her! Of course, most of us men couldn't keep keep up with her either! Climbing the NA with her and scotty in august of '04 as my last climb of the year is one of my fondest climbing memories... She was truly inspirational.
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psychadelic
Social climber
sea of mushrooms
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Feb 16, 2006 - 12:42am PT
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I can't even keep up with myself! I'm screwed I guess, oh well the mind wants one thing the hands want the other. Wait someone say fast women, ya that sounds managable!!!
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Fluoride
Trad climber
on a rock or mountain out west
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Feb 16, 2006 - 01:40am PT
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For sure Alik, Erica had so much potential. She was really hitting El Cap pushes hard that last summer she was there. And she was SO stoked on it too, her enthusiasm was contagious. One of those people you really WANTED to see succeed and push things to the next level cause she was such an inspiration. And so damn tough. She would probably have ended up with loads of female speed ascent records of El Cap if that tragedy didn't happen last July. Her free climbing skills were so high she could free a lot more on EC than most and get her up the rock a lot quicker. And yeah, as far as partners, other than maybe a Heidi or a Vera, I don't think there's many other women who could have kept up with her in a push situation.
Damn, I miss her.
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Jobee
Social climber
El Portal
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Feb 16, 2006 - 12:27pm PT
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Fishy..Fishy..Fishy."he went whereever..i did goe"! -MontyPython
You are such a Devil...nice troll?
"the truth is always paradoxical."
Hey Susan..give him a slug from me..will ya!
'the man's the Devil himself'
...LOL!
jow
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 16, 2006 - 12:39pm PT
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Fast Women
They will kick ass in the near future.
Men are becoming weenies .........
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Jobee
Social climber
El Portal
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Feb 16, 2006 - 01:07pm PT
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Susan: -Wild Thing!
No offense taken on the "somegirls" comment! I'm dyin over here rotf..."so give me all your'e money..give me all of your'e clothes...i'll give you half of everything I own! -stones
"i need one of those guys"
to clarify: Salathe Wall over a decade ago..Celia Bull and I.. she's English and tougher than raw-hide. "not to put down the animals".
It took us the standard wall time..back then which meant 4-EVER! Big ugly storm on (The Block)complete with foam blopping all over us. Very Coooollldddd..soaked and Freezzen while a party of 5 Spanards (who were going for a day ascent)(by the way they passed we girls...Boys that they were)! -anyway they screamed all night above us..I was certain they would be dead when we found them but they managed to summit un-Godly wailing all night and wicked spooky stuff pounding us.
Shield: with Will Oxx..he lead more than half (was not my bf however)-did a swan-dive off the top..most fantastic thing i've ever witnessed -besides- (Danos cart-wheel off the Rostrum) Will was down in less than one minute...me-well.. "reality bites"...enjoyable descent cuz i managed to carry quite a load without buckling over or dyin trying not to.
Almost fell down when I came across Chango who was layin in the dirt..I asked how/why was he up there? (he had jugged some other guys line to the top).. then he asked me to help him carry his load down..."unbelievable" it was so weird to see him there out of the cafeteria...very very weird.. scarey almost!
-great partner that Will was, he met me at Ranger Mt. (aka Manure Pile Buttress -my current office) with fresh juice, muffins, coffee and a giant grin! The guy flys-like-a-swift what a sight!
jow
p.s..- I have the new "LOVEBOAT" call me when you come up,
-same Bucky-Walter#.
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Chewbongka
climber
लघिमा
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Jul 11, 2008 - 05:46pm PT
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Hot damn it's Friday and and I need a fast women.
Any takers?
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Ouch!
climber
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Jul 11, 2008 - 06:10pm PT
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Locker, I think he was talking about fat, not fast women.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Jul 11, 2008 - 07:01pm PT
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Dr. Fish, please correct spelling from Lynne to Lynn....I believe Lynn Hill spells her name without the e.
I wouldn't want anyone to think I could climb....LRL
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
Yonder
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Jul 11, 2008 - 07:04pm PT
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Hi Jobee....I remember when you climbed the Shield with Will....
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2008 - 07:23pm PT
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Lynne... I don't think we can edit stuff that is *years* old. Maybe only stuff posted in the last 10 days or so can be edited.... gives you time to sober up before it gets etched in stone. After that it is a keeper for all time.
This thread was started in 2001!
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Chewbongka
climber
लघिमा
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Jul 11, 2008 - 07:34pm PT
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oh crap...that must mean all the fast women are long gone.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Jul 11, 2008 - 07:35pm PT
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OOps! Killed by the fine print again....sokay cause if anyone is number challenged like I am at least they know the diff between the two names for where the thread is today...if that makes any sense....it is Friday!
Met Lynn Hill BITD, really a neat gal..Fantastic climber..good person.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Jul 11, 2008 - 07:37pm PT
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No chewy, they're still trying to catch up with you.
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Fish Finder
Social climber
THE BOTTOM OF MY HEART
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Jul 11, 2008 - 07:42pm PT
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HOLY SH#TE MUSSY,
talk about kicking up some old dust. that explains why you and nature are so tight.
damn we needed you at the card game the other nite . got outta control for me and is most likely the end of an era. im sure sooze clued you in.
any chance you commin up before the laborous weekend. no not facelift -labor day.
gregg
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2008 - 07:47pm PT
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"there will never be another poker game in this house"
yeah, yeah..... I've heard all this before.
Maybe you can get a bigger table for the next time that will never happen?
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Anastasia
climber
Not there
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Jul 11, 2008 - 07:50pm PT
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Chewbongka,
Put on the beer goggles and fast women just magically appear.
Now don't mistake me for one of them, I rather pick up dog poop than play that game.
Also sadly when it comes to climbing, I am the exact opposite of fast.
Partners have balanced their check books, wrote operas, called their mothers while waiting for my next move.
Yes, Lynn Hill and that big wall girl... What is her name? Short brown hair, great smile, and tends to live out of the truck???
They are the only females I personally know and trust to be fast and efficient climbers.
AF
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Fish Finder
Social climber
THE BOTTOM OF MY HEART
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Jul 11, 2008 - 07:50pm PT
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hey thats natures quote not mine. im game . we need you!
mini is a dork and must always have things his way. the best from here on in is to have the game at minis. hes got it togehther and the correct size table.
he also gives great bbg.
get up here.
gregg
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Out on the sand.... man.....
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2008 - 07:53pm PT
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Man! I haven't had great BBG in a loooooooooong time.
(ok... what is BBG and why is Mini giving it?)
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Fish Finder
Social climber
THE BOTTOM OF MY HEART
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Jul 11, 2008 - 08:00pm PT
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ha ha aha . i meant bbq .
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