Ed Webster Appreciation Thread

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Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 8, 2009 - 10:31pm PT
This thread is long overdue!

As an avid climber, author and photographer, it is hard to match Ed Webster's career! His work simply makes ya want to get out there and push it a little!

The eye-popping desert pictorial from Ascent 1980 for starters!










The Pendulum is the first Edster story that I recall reading. From Climbing June 1977.




Three cheers for Ed Webster, gentleman, scholar and rock rabble rouser extraordinaire!!!
Todd Gordon

Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
Feb 8, 2009 - 10:42pm PT
I met Ed in Moab in the early 80's....he seemed friendly, psyched, and he was secretive of his climbing projects .....I was climbing alot on the Navajo Reservation, and we were sort of isolated , definately out of the mainstream, and pretty much clueless of what was going on in the "outside"....not that I was out to steal any of his routes or projects;..we were hacks, way grubby, and rarely traveled far from our homes... and he was doing FA's of stuff like the Primrose, and such (One of the greatest climbs anywhere, I believe...)........he really did some fantastic routes in the SW, and his motivation and drive was very inspirational to me.....his many guidebooks, articles, and presentations for decades have been a great gift to the climbing community, and he is truly one of America's climbing greats......I have nothing but tons of respect and admoration for the man......
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Feb 8, 2009 - 11:09pm PT
At a climbing event (well, a talking-about-climbing event) in Italy about fifteen years ago Ed met Kurt Diemberger. It was pretty funny watching them try to shake hands.

Edit: Very nice guy.
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Feb 8, 2009 - 11:27pm PT
Tough room! Especially with the toes and fingers jokes (cue Herzog/Miesner jokes) but to get down to it- "He was doing FA's of stuff like the Primrose, and such (One of the greatest climbs anywhere, I believe...)" I believe the same thing, and I believe it was solo.

But really, what has Mr Webster, done for us lately?

Thanks for all of it, EW!
The Wedge

Boulder climber
Bishop, CA
Feb 8, 2009 - 11:29pm PT
Nice. I am looking at his name right now on my Seneca Rocks,WV guide book.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Feb 9, 2009 - 02:17am PT
A lot closer to 20 years Ghost.

It was the Harvest House in December, '89 (the AAC annual meeting).
I remember meeting Diemberger and telling him of the demise of a mutual friend.

Ed and I had climbed some ice in New Hampshire in February, '82 (really! Me, on ice!!) and at the time he was unaware that I was missing a fingertip also.
Then in Boulder he reluctantly showed me his stumpage, and then seemed delighted when I showed him mine.

There is a lot of stumpage at AAC meetings. You kind of learn to keep a straight face while shaking hands.

I remember meeting Schoening in '93 in Denver reminded me of Diemberger.
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Feb 9, 2009 - 08:32am PT
Ed left quite a legacy of impressive next-generation climbs in New Hampshire, during the 70s.
Many of those traditionally-protected climbs are too bold to be popular today. The grades
aren't soft, either.

On the other hand, some of his bolted routes on the S Buttress have are now among the state's
best face climbs. I'll try to dig out a few pics.
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Feb 9, 2009 - 09:11am PT
Oh, Mr. Grossman, you're at it again!
Incredible post and photos--I really love that cover of
Ascent--I'm lucky to be an owner of one. But the other
shots are really powerful too-- senior Webster is really
something else!
Thanks again for a superb thread!
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Feb 9, 2009 - 09:23am PT
It was the Harvest House in December, '89 (the AAC annual meeting).

As may be, but they also met at Casa Machievelli, just outside Firenze in the mid-90s. Jello was there, too, for that matter.
Bruce Perschbacher

climber
Carbonale,Ill. 62901.
Feb 9, 2009 - 10:08am PT
I was lucky enough to meet and spend a bit of time with Ed in Maine a few winters ago,and what a class act he is. A superb climber, and truly a gentleman in every respect.
Cheers,
Bruce.
lemon_boy

climber
Feb 9, 2009 - 10:47am PT
anybody know what the route is on the cover? maybe one of the wiggins routes at cliffs of insanity?
Jim E

climber
away
Feb 9, 2009 - 12:00pm PT
First met Ed in 1980 or so at a slide show he gave at UNH. I was in high school at the time and had been climbing long enough to know who Ed was. After the slide show I invited him to come to my high school to present his show there. My partners of that time, all teachers at the school, and I were more than psyched to meet the legendary Webster. We became friends and I was fortunate enough to climb with Ed on a few occasions.

I believe he lives near me in Maine now but our paths have not crossed in the last five years or so.

Great climber, photographer, writer... great guy.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Feb 9, 2009 - 12:00pm PT
I'll never forget reading of his ascent of the Kangshung Face, and writing a photo caption something along the lines of,

"...and here are the photos I took that cost me my fingers."

Anyone got a photo of his hands these days? Good thing Venables pushed on to the summit.
Katie_I

Mountain climber
Wyoming
Feb 9, 2009 - 12:18pm PT
Ed is a great writer, a great climber--and a modest, humble, truly kind person. People like him are the heart of climbing. =)
TrundleBum

Trad climber
Las Vegas
Feb 9, 2009 - 01:38pm PT
I remember the N.Cornflake crew @ IME used to joke and say Webster's middle name must be 'photo by'!

I would love to hear the story about how his bicycle wound up hanging off of Cathedral, near the top of Repentance/Remission for a few days (Rotert where are yah, somehow I think you were in on that caper?)

Posted other places on the forum but, what'a hey:
First ascent of Luxury Liner
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Feb 9, 2009 - 02:29pm PT
Photo by and also photo of.

His guides always had the worst photos and most of them were of him on some slabby lead, looking down at the camera.
cowpoke

climber
Feb 9, 2009 - 02:56pm PT
one of my climbing heros

Not long after I first started climbing, he gave a talk/slide show at Colorado College on the Kangshung Face. Prior to the Everest story/shots, he showed a number of pictures of his days in and around Colorado Springs (and the desert) with folks like Steve Hong -- very inspiring. His storyline threaded through North Conway as well. At the time, I was debating where to go for grad school. New Hampshire was the answer. Remember the pre-order ad in climbing magazines to help him get the new edition of his Whites guide published? Sent my money right before packing the u-haul headed east. A fabulous investment.
Jim E

climber
away
Feb 9, 2009 - 02:59pm PT
Then there was that sh#t photo of that Hudon punk on that slabby White Eye...

I think there was another one of Hudon on the slabby Prow where he was wearing a kerchief.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Feb 9, 2009 - 03:09pm PT
for which I am doubtlessly deeply indebted. ;-)
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Feb 9, 2009 - 05:51pm PT
Wedge wrote:
"Nice. I am looking at his name right now on my Seneca Rocks,WV guide book."

I believe that's Bill Webster, not Ed.


Ed wrote the White Mountains (New Hampshire) guide...

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