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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 8, 2009 - 10:31pm PT
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This thread is long overdue!
As an avid climber, author and photographer, it is hard to match Ed Webster's career! His work simply makes ya want to get out there and push it a little!
The eye-popping desert pictorial from Ascent 1980 for starters!
The Pendulum is the first Edster story that I recall reading. From Climbing June 1977.
Three cheers for Ed Webster, gentleman, scholar and rock rabble rouser extraordinaire!!!
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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I met Ed in Moab in the early 80's....he seemed friendly, psyched, and he was secretive of his climbing projects .....I was climbing alot on the Navajo Reservation, and we were sort of isolated , definately out of the mainstream, and pretty much clueless of what was going on in the "outside"....not that I was out to steal any of his routes or projects;..we were hacks, way grubby, and rarely traveled far from our homes... and he was doing FA's of stuff like the Primrose, and such (One of the greatest climbs anywhere, I believe...)........he really did some fantastic routes in the SW, and his motivation and drive was very inspirational to me.....his many guidebooks, articles, and presentations for decades have been a great gift to the climbing community, and he is truly one of America's climbing greats......I have nothing but tons of respect and admoration for the man......
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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At a climbing event (well, a talking-about-climbing event) in Italy about fifteen years ago Ed met Kurt Diemberger. It was pretty funny watching them try to shake hands.
Edit: Very nice guy.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Tough room! Especially with the toes and fingers jokes (cue Herzog/Miesner jokes) but to get down to it- "He was doing FA's of stuff like the Primrose, and such (One of the greatest climbs anywhere, I believe...)" I believe the same thing, and I believe it was solo.
But really, what has Mr Webster, done for us lately?
Thanks for all of it, EW!
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The Wedge
Boulder climber
Bishop, CA
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Nice. I am looking at his name right now on my Seneca Rocks,WV guide book.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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A lot closer to 20 years Ghost.
It was the Harvest House in December, '89 (the AAC annual meeting).
I remember meeting Diemberger and telling him of the demise of a mutual friend.
Ed and I had climbed some ice in New Hampshire in February, '82 (really! Me, on ice!!) and at the time he was unaware that I was missing a fingertip also.
Then in Boulder he reluctantly showed me his stumpage, and then seemed delighted when I showed him mine.
There is a lot of stumpage at AAC meetings. You kind of learn to keep a straight face while shaking hands.
I remember meeting Schoening in '93 in Denver reminded me of Diemberger.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Ed left quite a legacy of impressive next-generation climbs in New Hampshire, during the 70s.
Many of those traditionally-protected climbs are too bold to be popular today. The grades
aren't soft, either.
On the other hand, some of his bolted routes on the S Buttress have are now among the state's
best face climbs. I'll try to dig out a few pics.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Oh, Mr. Grossman, you're at it again!
Incredible post and photos--I really love that cover of
Ascent--I'm lucky to be an owner of one. But the other
shots are really powerful too-- senior Webster is really
something else!
Thanks again for a superb thread!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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It was the Harvest House in December, '89 (the AAC annual meeting).
As may be, but they also met at Casa Machievelli, just outside Firenze in the mid-90s. Jello was there, too, for that matter.
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Bruce Perschbacher
climber
Carbonale,Ill. 62901.
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I was lucky enough to meet and spend a bit of time with Ed in Maine a few winters ago,and what a class act he is. A superb climber, and truly a gentleman in every respect.
Cheers,
Bruce.
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lemon_boy
climber
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anybody know what the route is on the cover? maybe one of the wiggins routes at cliffs of insanity?
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Jim E
climber
away
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First met Ed in 1980 or so at a slide show he gave at UNH. I was in high school at the time and had been climbing long enough to know who Ed was. After the slide show I invited him to come to my high school to present his show there. My partners of that time, all teachers at the school, and I were more than psyched to meet the legendary Webster. We became friends and I was fortunate enough to climb with Ed on a few occasions.
I believe he lives near me in Maine now but our paths have not crossed in the last five years or so.
Great climber, photographer, writer... great guy.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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I'll never forget reading of his ascent of the Kangshung Face, and writing a photo caption something along the lines of,
"...and here are the photos I took that cost me my fingers."
Anyone got a photo of his hands these days? Good thing Venables pushed on to the summit.
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Katie_I
Mountain climber
Wyoming
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Ed is a great writer, a great climber--and a modest, humble, truly kind person. People like him are the heart of climbing. =)
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TrundleBum
Trad climber
Las Vegas
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I remember the N.Cornflake crew @ IME used to joke and say Webster's middle name must be 'photo by'!
I would love to hear the story about how his bicycle wound up hanging off of Cathedral, near the top of Repentance/Remission for a few days (Rotert where are yah, somehow I think you were in on that caper?)
Posted other places on the forum but, what'a hey:
First ascent of Luxury Liner
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Photo by and also photo of.
His guides always had the worst photos and most of them were of him on some slabby lead, looking down at the camera.
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cowpoke
climber
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one of my climbing heros
Not long after I first started climbing, he gave a talk/slide show at Colorado College on the Kangshung Face. Prior to the Everest story/shots, he showed a number of pictures of his days in and around Colorado Springs (and the desert) with folks like Steve Hong -- very inspiring. His storyline threaded through North Conway as well. At the time, I was debating where to go for grad school. New Hampshire was the answer. Remember the pre-order ad in climbing magazines to help him get the new edition of his Whites guide published? Sent my money right before packing the u-haul headed east. A fabulous investment.
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Jim E
climber
away
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Then there was that sh#t photo of that Hudon punk on that slabby White Eye...
I think there was another one of Hudon on the slabby Prow where he was wearing a kerchief.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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for which I am doubtlessly deeply indebted. ;-)
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Wedge wrote:
"Nice. I am looking at his name right now on my Seneca Rocks,WV guide book."
I believe that's Bill Webster, not Ed.
Ed wrote the White Mountains (New Hampshire) guide...
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The Wedge
Boulder climber
Bishop, CA
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Good man. Thanks for that steelmonkey. My bad.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2009 - 11:24pm PT
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"Ajax was one scared rabbit when he got up under the roof and stared up at me." I bet Ajax was one pissed off rabbit when that gem showed up nationally. LOL
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2009 - 10:56pm PT
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Another installment in Lil' Eddy's Greatest Hits. From Climbing #48 May-June 78 and all you redstoners out there!
Great shot of Harvey Carter!
Nice hangman's loop!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2009 - 11:33am PT
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Lil' Eddy Bump!
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J. Werlin
climber
Cedaredge
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Feb 17, 2009 - 05:38pm PT
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I think Ed may have visited the Black a time or three.
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SGropp
Mountain climber
Eastsound, Wa
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Feb 24, 2009 - 04:49pm PT
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Ed was the most fanatical climber I ever met
We did the FFA of Tager in Eldorado in 74.
The leader of the party after us fell on the roof and broke his kneecap. We climbed back up and helped get him secured and set up a rope for the Mountain Rescue guys . Some big dude came jugging up the line and we helped load the victim in a backpack carrier on the guys back and he rapped back to the ground. The injured climber was in a lot of pain, we gave him a sling to chew on while we waited.
After we got back down, knowing Ed, we probably did a few more route to fill out the afternoon.
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deeski
Trad climber
North Carolina
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Feb 24, 2009 - 09:45pm PT
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I had the chance to meet Ed in Telluride many years ago. I was excited about building an indoor climbing wall in the gym of the Telluride High School. Bill Kees invited Ed to come down to the wall and check it out and help us with the design of the wall. Ed was working and volunteering at a new wall he had inspired at Westminister, CO and was happy to give his suggestions. It was SO FUN to meet someone else who was inspiring high school students to live life to the fullest by learning the basics on a climbing wall and then heading out to the wilds of new adventures on rock climbs all over everywhere. I have just built a new indoor climbing wall in a small college in western NC and the inspiration continues. Thank you Ed for the time you spent with me that day in Telluride....climb on!!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 3, 2009 - 11:02am PT
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Physical Eddification!!!
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Jim Lawyer
climber
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Webster wrote a delightful piece for Climbing #27, Sep-Oct 1974, about an ascent on Wallface in the Adirondack Mountains with Ken Nichols. They called their route Black Plague, named for the plague of black flies that eventually drove them away. He was so traumatized by the experience that he never returned to the area.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 3, 2009 - 08:37pm PT
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Post em if you got em! I don't recall reading that one.
The pests were probably a godsend for the locals as Ed would have likely returned to scarf up any remaining classics!
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Jim Lawyer
climber
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> The pests were probably a godsend for
> the locals as Ed would have likely returned
> to scarf up any remaining classics!
True that, although I suspect the real reason is that New Hampshire had all that beautiful, clean, accessible granite.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 15, 2009 - 12:20pm PT
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Look, there he is again!
FA of the Hallucinogen Wall. Les Choy photo.
Two from Vertigo Games.
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Katie_I
Mountain climber
Wyoming
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Mar 22, 2009 - 12:26am PT
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It's Ed Webster's birthday today. =)
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 22, 2009 - 12:53am PT
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Say howdy for me, whenever you see him!
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Mar 29, 2009 - 07:43pm PT
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Bump it.
Climbing fun!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2009 - 11:41am PT
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Edster Bump!
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meclimber
Trad climber
Dover, NH
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May 19, 2009 - 12:02pm PT
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Hard to climb in NH without getting on some Webster classics. We even have a mountain named after him. OK maybe not after him, but it sounded good.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 28, 2009 - 11:58am PT
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Not to mention the dictionary! LOL I wonder if Ed ever used that pun in a route name.
Webster's Unabridged (5.11) This virtual stemming problem begins with a poorly defined open book!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2010 - 12:28pm PT
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And another EdsterBump!
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Apr 18, 2010 - 02:10pm PT
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My favorite passages in wd webster guides are the usually the the ones describeing the "interesting move" I usually crap my pants on an Ed Webster "interesting move"
My least favorite is the fact that he allmost never gives a photo credit to anyone other than himself. Its either and Ed Webster photo or Ed Webster collection.. Ya think maby a few of those guys and galls who contributed to the Ed Webster collection might like a photo credit?
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Jingy
Social climber
Nowhere
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Apr 18, 2010 - 02:15pm PT
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great photos
must be a cool dude
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Apr 18, 2010 - 02:22pm PT
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Ed's Lofoten guidebook is a class act as well, introducing "the magic islands" to English-speaking climbers.
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Ricardo Cabeza
climber
All Over.
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Apr 18, 2010 - 02:47pm PT
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Cheers to Ed Webster!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2010 - 03:46pm PT
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Ed's photos and writing really stoke my desire to get out there and explore!
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slabbo
Trad climber
fort garland, colo
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Apr 18, 2010 - 07:23pm PT
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The Ed- first person I ever met who guided people on f/a's , cash for routes ! When I visited him to help on the last NH guidebook, his fingernails were WAY longer than his fingers and they made a clattering sound on the keyboard, kinda creepy.
Moses, Scenic Cruise, Women In Love,Last Unicorn,... endless classics around the everywhere.
AND he always had the good looking honey's around too......
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wannabeen
climber
EP West
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Apr 18, 2010 - 10:12pm PT
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Just came back from a Utah tower tour. We did Ed Webster routes like one would do Harding routes in the sierras. You can do no wrong chasing Ed's FA's in the desert. I'd buy that guy some beers.
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Allen Hill
Social climber
CO.
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Apr 19, 2010 - 12:20am PT
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The picture of Earl drilling at the Garden is not Earl. It's Leonard who's putting drill to sandstone.
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chill
climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
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Apr 19, 2010 - 12:25am PT
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Check out Bryan's rack for thin, parallel desert cracks...badass!
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Allen Hill
Social climber
CO.
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Apr 19, 2010 - 12:35am PT
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The photo has a funny history to it. As for Becker's rack, I don't think Friends were in the budget or for that matter even on the market at the time. He backed off on this attempt. Me and Grossman tried it four years latter with the same results. But this thread is about ED WEBSTER!
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chill
climber
between the flat part and the blue wobbly thing
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Apr 19, 2010 - 12:48am PT
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Allen,
I was just making a point that those guys (including Ed) climbed some hard desert cracks with gear that was unsuited for the task, not trying to draw the spotlight away from Ed.
Chris Hill
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Allen Hill
Social climber
CO.
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Apr 19, 2010 - 12:59am PT
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I meant nothing of the sort Chris. Just some poor grammar on my part. I've wanted to meet you for sometime. Meet me at Becker's garage sometime to marvel at his ancient gear.
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slabbo
Trad climber
fort garland, colo
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Apr 19, 2010 - 09:17am PT
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I remember Ed telling me that Moses/Primrose was MEANT for Friends. He specifically thought about that route. So many others too
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Stewart Johnson
climber
yo mama
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Apr 19, 2010 - 10:57am PT
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Ed on everest in 1988.
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Edge
Trad climber
New Durham, NH
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Apr 19, 2010 - 11:16am PT
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I had the privilege of tying in with Edster in the early 80's. Without looking at my journal, I remember Robinson Carusoe to Castaways on Humphreys Ledge, NH in particular. Somewhere around here I have a slide of Ed leading the crux corner, but I would have to track it down and scan it in later.
Spent more than a few rainy weekends under the Cathedral Roof with the likes of Ed, Jim Dunn, and others playing on Molsons Madness and Grandmothers challenge.
Great fun, and what a role model for a 18 year old aspiring climber.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 26, 2010 - 02:53pm PT
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Coverboy Lil' Eddy Webmaster attempts the overhang variation on "Coffin" Little Cottonwood Canyon, SLC. Gerald Stoval photo.
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Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
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Jun 26, 2010 - 03:47pm PT
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Ed Webster's Black Canyon legacy will always be a testament to his ability and vision as a climber.
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J. Werlin
Social climber
Cedaredge, CO
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Jun 26, 2010 - 07:35pm PT
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Legend and one of the best writers in our game. Respect.
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Jun 26, 2010 - 10:17pm PT
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I only know Ed from his book on the Kangshung face which is one of my favorite pieces of Himalayan climbing literature. He was a keen observer of the local people and area also. I've used a few quotes from that book as references in some of my own ethnographic writing.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 9, 2011 - 10:49pm PT
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Bump for Ed!
He just contacted me and I hope that he will pull up a chair around here and share a few tales.
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Ed is a really fine gentleman. I remember climbing with him
years ago and being very impressed at how solid he was on
really difficult free climbing. He sight led Supremacy Crack
one day with me, placed a number of nuts, with no effort,
and though most will now associate him with certain bold adventures
in the Himalaya, he was an outstanding free climber,
pioneering quite a lot of routes in the east...
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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May 10, 2011 - 01:35am PT
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When I was visiting with Layton and Karen Kor in the spring of 2011, Layton and I agreed that one of our top three climbing books was Storm in the Kingdom.
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o-man
Trad climber
Paia,Maui,HI
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May 11, 2011 - 05:29am PT
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I had a great time back in the early 80's camping,climbing and hanging out with Ed, Ken Simms,and Doug Snivley before they went up on PO Wall.That was a fun time. It seemed like every one you could think of was in the valley that season.
Many of my all time favorite, most memorable and must do again before I die climbs are Ed Webster routes!
Cheers to you Ed Webster, your legend will live for ever in climbing's lore!
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steveA
Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
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May 11, 2011 - 07:46am PT
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Ed is a warm, friendly guy. It is amazing to me that after 40 years of climbing on the same cliffs, we never did a route together. I guess it was partly due to the fact that Ed was busy freeing some of my old routes while I was off working in the woods on my timber lot. Ed left a legacy of great routes, especially in the desert.
I'll be climbing on one of Ed's favorite cliffs today- Cathedral Ledge, hosting another legend--an early Australian pioneer John Ewbank.
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slabbo
Trad climber
fort garland, colo
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May 11, 2011 - 10:07am PT
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SteveA- you going to Crow ? With Ewbank ? Nice.
When mt future wife met Ed for the first time I remember telling her- " Ed has all the hottest girlfriends" Her comment " No doubt, look at those eyes"!
Talk about no fingers- when i was helping out with the '96 guide to NH Ed's fingernails DID keep growing and the clatter on his computer was kinda disturbing.
Hat's off to a great guy
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 12, 2011 - 12:36pm PT
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Ed sent me this note recently along with a check for a Diamond DVD.
Very Big Day for the estimable Mr. Webster!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 15, 2013 - 11:12pm PT
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Lil' Eddy and the Hobbit Bump!
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Dolomite
climber
Anchorage
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Mar 15, 2013 - 11:19pm PT
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Ed is in London at this very moment, celebrating the 25th Anniversary of the Ascent Kangshung Face. A great climb by any measure!
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Mar 16, 2013 - 04:40am PT
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Ed's old east coast routes are marvels.
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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Mar 16, 2013 - 08:48am PT
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I learned to climb in new england, still have his book with a hole I drilled through it, so I could clip it into my harness, which I also did with the little gunks books.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 26, 2015 - 12:16pm PT
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I give thanks for Lil' Eddy Webster.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 26, 2015 - 02:55pm PT
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Nice shot Stewart.
You should start a thread about that expedition if you have more photos to support it. Ed doesn't post here but I bet that he would if it was in support of that trip. Life changing doesn't even come close to describing Ed's experience.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 3, 2016 - 03:00pm PT
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Little Eddy Bump...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 23, 2017 - 11:11am PT
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Bump for WebEdster...
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Vic
climber
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Nov 27, 2017 - 07:32pm PT
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I would wager that Ed has been involved in more FAs of classic routes enjoyed by the average climber in the Black Canyon that anyone ever was, or likely ever will be:
Scenic Cruise (IV/V 5.10+), Journey Home (IV 5.10 [5.9 R]), Checkerboard Wall (III 5.10+), Comic Relief (III 5.10), Escape Artist (III 5.9+), A Midsummer Night's Dream (III 5.11-), Highway 61 Revisited (IV/V 5.11-), Lauren's Arete (III 5.8+), Leisure Climb (III 5.9), The Flakes (IV/V 5.10+ [5.9 X]), Hallucinogen Wall (VI 5.10 A3+)... as well as many other equally demanding yet lesser known routes.
I am immensely grateful for his contributions to the new Black Canyon guidebook as well. This was an excellent piece of writing that he gladly donated- a shortened and tweaked version of a more extensive piece he wrote called "The Book of Kor" in Beyond the Vertical.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 27, 2017 - 08:02pm PT
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Ed has his pulse on all things Layton which is why I made sure that he was in Boulder for the Diamond Reflections event and for the AAC memorial.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2126118/Diamond-Reflections-1959-67-Remembering-Layton-Kor-6-21-22
ED WEBSTER represents the BEST of what American Alpinism has to offer, plain and simple.
Those of us who have had the opportunity of interacting with these iconic American climbers out of interest and respect reap the deep rewards of getting a glimpse into the soul of real alpinism. Ed has spent a lot of time drinking from this satisfying well.
I am eternally honored to call him a friend.
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Stewart Johnson
Mountain climber
lake forest
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Nov 28, 2017 - 05:15am PT
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Ed just realizing he has severe frostbite
After getting off of the Kangshung face
On Mt Everest.
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okay, whatever
climber
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Nov 28, 2017 - 06:17am PT
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I went to Colorado College in the early-mid 1970's with Ed, and did some climbing with him in the Garden of the Gods, mainly, but also at Turkey Rocks. He was certainly ambitious, climbing-wise, and liked to write about his climbs for the magazines. That put some people off as self-promotion, particularly in the Colorado Springs climbing community, which prided itself on being not-Boulder back then. Personally, I always liked him and his endless enthusiasm....
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