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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 14, 2008 - 02:10pm PT
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Let's say, many routes are at least 10 pitches, and more like Yosemite-style faces than mountaineering slogs with mix of technical moves thrown in.
I don't know much about anywhere outside of the US or our nearby borders.
The climbing in Baffin, Trango, Patagonia, etc. must be unbelievable, but I like to go somewhere on the warmer side with my precious vacation time.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Dec 14, 2008 - 02:18pm PT
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I believe there is a wealth of such climbing in Mexico. Some of the folks here on ST know about it and can post up with ideas.
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hossjulia
Trad climber
Eastside
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Dec 14, 2008 - 02:38pm PT
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El Gran Trono Blanco. about 2 hours total from San Diego, if you have good directions and know where you are going. Highly recommend.
I was there almost 20 years ago, so it might be more sketch, or less, depends on how afraid you are. (of bandits) I was more afraid of the snakes and the big cat we heard in the night, very close. Leave the dog at home. It was a PITA to have ours along. We really shouldn't have left him alone in camp, and he couldn't do the scrambling approaches to the sport climbs. In fact, I think we left the morning after we(I?) heard the cat, for the dogs sake. Also, we had no guide, realized climbing on the big wall was out, and could only find a handful of spankin hard sport routes.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=498517&msg=556937#msg556937
edited to add: roncat might remember more about this than I, but he just lurks sometimes.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Dec 14, 2008 - 03:15pm PT
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Khirgistan, allegedly unlimited potential, cheap, good weather in season, though some unique travel concerns...
I've actually really wanted to go there until the Rodden/caldwell epic. Has anyone gone cragging there recently, are things better?
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COT
climber
Door Number 3
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Dec 14, 2008 - 04:40pm PT
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3000 + feet, no snow 8 months of the year and 10 minute walk from the road, but a wee bit of red tape to go through to get there.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Dec 14, 2008 - 04:57pm PT
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Cot, when are you, me, and Melissa, going?
Do I need another visa?
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COT
climber
Door Number 3
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Dec 14, 2008 - 05:25pm PT
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Hey Jaybro,
The image is of a peak in Pakistan near the India border. I tagged along with three friends in 2000. Cool trip, some good rock some bad, great summit, interesting locals, hung out with Pakistani Special Forces and got to shoot AK 47's. There are some other objectives that looked good, but they are even closer to the border and with the present relations being what they are between India and Pakistan getting permit would seem doubtful.
Here some spray
http://classic.mountainzone.com/climbing/2000/forbidden/dispatches.html
our line followed the obvious dihedral 5.11 A3+ or something, crux was crumbly OW!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Dec 14, 2008 - 05:51pm PT
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Bugaboos
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hossjulia
Trad climber
Eastside
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Dec 14, 2008 - 06:02pm PT
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Bugaboos! Free of snow and ice! Now? Wow, good to know.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Dec 14, 2008 - 06:02pm PT
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AK47's and crumbly 5.11ow? Not to mention Milles vanderoe, style summit photo opportunites? Now that's an adventure!
Call me next time!
Ed, there is that potential, route (a natural for team bawc) that Jello posted once in the bugs. Not sure that they will let me pass their borders, though.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Dec 14, 2008 - 08:50pm PT
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the approaches in the Bugs are on glaciers, so some knowledge is required, but the routes, for the most part, are 10 rock climbing pitches on nice granite without snow/ice required as part of the ascent. At least that's how I remember it...
...and the glaciers on approach aren't so bad.
The rock is alpine though and will come apart spontaneously in a freeze-thaw cycle. The glaciers underneath the climbs often have evidence of rock activity from above... so it's not too mysterious.
And Jaybro, I'm sure you'd be fine crossing into Canada...
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Dec 14, 2008 - 09:06pm PT
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I'm in, Ed. I'd love to get back there. If those border Wolverines get fussy,though, I'm taking the first flight to Pakistan to climb with COT up that line he's waving under our collective nose.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 14, 2008 - 10:48pm PT
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Awesome. Thanks. Any other offerings and photos much appreciated.
The Madagascar pictures especially had nice vacation appeal.
X-istan climbing is probably for another time and possible another person as well, although the rock does look inspiring.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Dec 15, 2008 - 02:44am PT
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The Bugs...
been there twice, 1984 and 1995... want to go again (guess I missed 2006)...
Lawrence atop somthing in the Bugs...
Konrad Cain hut
Pigeon spire
Mike on the West Ridge of Pigeon Spire.... the Howser Spires in the background
Bugaboo Spire from the high camp
Howser Spires from Pigeon Spire
Snowpatch Spire, Pigeon Spire and the Bugaboo-Snowpatch col
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Dec 15, 2008 - 03:00am PT
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Mike starting up the Kain route in 1984
"The Gendarme"
can't remember where this is... probably west side of Snowpatch spire?
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Dec 15, 2008 - 03:16am PT
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hmmm, I haven't been there since '82, but those shots help make me wanna go.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Dec 15, 2008 - 06:08am PT
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I visit the Bugaboos every 10 years or so.
Most of the climbs don't meet the 10+ pitches requirement, though.
If within US and 9 pitches are OK, I like the Elephant's Perch:
http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/eperch/index.htm
The Dolomites should also have several of those 10+ pitch routes.
In Mexico, one option is "Logical Progression", 800m, 27 pitches on El Gigante:
http://www.martinacufar.com/files/El_Gigante-eng.pdf
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duncan
Trad climber
London, UK
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Dec 15, 2008 - 10:11am PT
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From the Eastern Hemisphere (or thereabouts…)
Wadi Rum
http://www.wadirum.net/routes/reclist.htm
Oman
Jebel Misht
Excellent supertopo-esque guide to local classic, the French Pillar: http://www.toby.fk.dial.pipex.com/uae/misht_fp_topo.pdf
Al Hamra Towers
Mali
Hand of Fatima
Italy
Dolomites
Best-known of many European sub-alpine venues. World-class, easy to get to but busy.
France
Verdon Gorge. With the Dolomites, probably the simplest location logistically.
Spain
Riglos
Naranjo de Bulnes
Scotland
Creag an Dubh Loch
Loch Avon, Cairngorms. Shelter Stone Crag, on the left, has routes up to 900' long.
Norway
I suspect there are several lifetimes of adventures here.
There are some great photos in Chris Cragg’s albums:
http://www.pbase.com/chris_craggs/norway
Nissedal
Lofoten
Kjerag, near Stavanger. 3000’ from the Fjord to summit.
Unfortunately the main cliff is very popular with BASE jumpers, but there are plenty of routes on surrounding areas.
Arctic (Store Blåmannen)
Good thread on UKC here, not entirely on-topic but more constructive than most:
http://www.ukc2.com/forums/t.php?t=242990&v=1#3576065
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