Discussion Topic |
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 14, 2008 - 02:10pm PT
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Let's say, many routes are at least 10 pitches, and more like Yosemite-style faces than mountaineering slogs with mix of technical moves thrown in.
I don't know much about anywhere outside of the US or our nearby borders.
The climbing in Baffin, Trango, Patagonia, etc. must be unbelievable, but I like to go somewhere on the warmer side with my precious vacation time.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Dec 14, 2008 - 02:18pm PT
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I believe there is a wealth of such climbing in Mexico. Some of the folks here on ST know about it and can post up with ideas.
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hossjulia
Trad climber
Eastside
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Dec 14, 2008 - 02:38pm PT
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El Gran Trono Blanco. about 2 hours total from San Diego, if you have good directions and know where you are going. Highly recommend.
I was there almost 20 years ago, so it might be more sketch, or less, depends on how afraid you are. (of bandits) I was more afraid of the snakes and the big cat we heard in the night, very close. Leave the dog at home. It was a PITA to have ours along. We really shouldn't have left him alone in camp, and he couldn't do the scrambling approaches to the sport climbs. In fact, I think we left the morning after we(I?) heard the cat, for the dogs sake. Also, we had no guide, realized climbing on the big wall was out, and could only find a handful of spankin hard sport routes.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=498517&msg=556937#msg556937
edited to add: roncat might remember more about this than I, but he just lurks sometimes.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Dec 14, 2008 - 03:15pm PT
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Khirgistan, allegedly unlimited potential, cheap, good weather in season, though some unique travel concerns...
I've actually really wanted to go there until the Rodden/caldwell epic. Has anyone gone cragging there recently, are things better?
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COT
climber
Door Number 3
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Dec 14, 2008 - 04:40pm PT
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3000 + feet, no snow 8 months of the year and 10 minute walk from the road, but a wee bit of red tape to go through to get there.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Dec 14, 2008 - 04:57pm PT
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Cot, when are you, me, and Melissa, going?
Do I need another visa?
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COT
climber
Door Number 3
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Dec 14, 2008 - 05:25pm PT
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Hey Jaybro,
The image is of a peak in Pakistan near the India border. I tagged along with three friends in 2000. Cool trip, some good rock some bad, great summit, interesting locals, hung out with Pakistani Special Forces and got to shoot AK 47's. There are some other objectives that looked good, but they are even closer to the border and with the present relations being what they are between India and Pakistan getting permit would seem doubtful.
Here some spray
http://classic.mountainzone.com/climbing/2000/forbidden/dispatches.html
our line followed the obvious dihedral 5.11 A3+ or something, crux was crumbly OW!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Dec 14, 2008 - 05:51pm PT
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Bugaboos
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hossjulia
Trad climber
Eastside
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Dec 14, 2008 - 06:02pm PT
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Bugaboos! Free of snow and ice! Now? Wow, good to know.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Dec 14, 2008 - 06:02pm PT
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AK47's and crumbly 5.11ow? Not to mention Milles vanderoe, style summit photo opportunites? Now that's an adventure!
Call me next time!
Ed, there is that potential, route (a natural for team bawc) that Jello posted once in the bugs. Not sure that they will let me pass their borders, though.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Dec 14, 2008 - 08:50pm PT
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the approaches in the Bugs are on glaciers, so some knowledge is required, but the routes, for the most part, are 10 rock climbing pitches on nice granite without snow/ice required as part of the ascent. At least that's how I remember it...
...and the glaciers on approach aren't so bad.
The rock is alpine though and will come apart spontaneously in a freeze-thaw cycle. The glaciers underneath the climbs often have evidence of rock activity from above... so it's not too mysterious.
And Jaybro, I'm sure you'd be fine crossing into Canada...
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Dec 14, 2008 - 09:06pm PT
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I'm in, Ed. I'd love to get back there. If those border Wolverines get fussy,though, I'm taking the first flight to Pakistan to climb with COT up that line he's waving under our collective nose.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 14, 2008 - 10:48pm PT
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Awesome. Thanks. Any other offerings and photos much appreciated.
The Madagascar pictures especially had nice vacation appeal.
X-istan climbing is probably for another time and possible another person as well, although the rock does look inspiring.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Dec 15, 2008 - 02:44am PT
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The Bugs...
been there twice, 1984 and 1995... want to go again (guess I missed 2006)...
Lawrence atop somthing in the Bugs...
Konrad Cain hut
Pigeon spire
Mike on the West Ridge of Pigeon Spire.... the Howser Spires in the background
Bugaboo Spire from the high camp
Howser Spires from Pigeon Spire
Snowpatch Spire, Pigeon Spire and the Bugaboo-Snowpatch col
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Dec 15, 2008 - 03:00am PT
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Mike starting up the Kain route in 1984
"The Gendarme"
can't remember where this is... probably west side of Snowpatch spire?
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Dec 15, 2008 - 03:16am PT
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hmmm, I haven't been there since '82, but those shots help make me wanna go.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Dec 15, 2008 - 06:08am PT
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I visit the Bugaboos every 10 years or so.
Most of the climbs don't meet the 10+ pitches requirement, though.
If within US and 9 pitches are OK, I like the Elephant's Perch:
http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/eperch/index.htm
The Dolomites should also have several of those 10+ pitch routes.
In Mexico, one option is "Logical Progression", 800m, 27 pitches on El Gigante:
http://www.martinacufar.com/files/El_Gigante-eng.pdf
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duncan
Trad climber
London, UK
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Dec 15, 2008 - 10:11am PT
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From the Eastern Hemisphere (or thereabouts…)
Wadi Rum
http://www.wadirum.net/routes/reclist.htm
Oman
Jebel Misht
Excellent supertopo-esque guide to local classic, the French Pillar: http://www.toby.fk.dial.pipex.com/uae/misht_fp_topo.pdf
Al Hamra Towers
Mali
Hand of Fatima
Italy
Dolomites
Best-known of many European sub-alpine venues. World-class, easy to get to but busy.
France
Verdon Gorge. With the Dolomites, probably the simplest location logistically.
Spain
Riglos
Naranjo de Bulnes
Scotland
Creag an Dubh Loch
Loch Avon, Cairngorms. Shelter Stone Crag, on the left, has routes up to 900' long.
Norway
I suspect there are several lifetimes of adventures here.
There are some great photos in Chris Cragg’s albums:
http://www.pbase.com/chris_craggs/norway
Nissedal
Lofoten
Kjerag, near Stavanger. 3000’ from the Fjord to summit.
Unfortunately the main cliff is very popular with BASE jumpers, but there are plenty of routes on surrounding areas.
Arctic (Store Blåmannen)
Good thread on UKC here, not entirely on-topic but more constructive than most:
http://www.ukc2.com/forums/t.php?t=242990&v=1#3576065
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Dec 15, 2008 - 10:12am PT
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I'm going to defend my pick, but Clint has a point. The Bugs always seem a lot bigger looking at those pictures than they are when you're actually there. However, the granite is wonderful to climb on, and the compact nature of the range gets you to most of the formations pretty quickly (which is relative). The place suffers from the Canadian "problem" of weather, I think you can count on roughly half the days being climbing days... so you tend to climb like crazy when it's good weather knowing you'll be forced to rest up when it's not.
The South Face of the Howser Spire Massif is what I was thinking when I responded, The Beckey-Chouinard Route is 19 pitches and goes free at 5.10a. The Catalonian Route is 20 pitches 5.10 A2, the South Tower Minaret is 11 pitches, the Italian Pillar 14p at 5.10 A4, the Southwest Pillar 14p at 5.8 A3.
Many of these lines have aid, at least in the Green & Bensen guide that I have (1990, perhaps there is a later version), so there may be some possibility of FFA for a strong party.
Most of the other spires have some longish, 10 pitch climbs, many go free in the 5.10 difficulty range. Snowpatch Spire has 8 and 9 pitch climbs on it...
You can tick off the 50 Classic Climbs in NA route N.E. Ridge of Bugaboo Spire if you can get on it. We thought we might have an advantage on the day after a bad weather spell, but the climbers from Bellingham WA have some awesome weather forecast juju and arrive in time to make you feel like you're on the E. Buttress of Middle Cathedral Rock. There are other routes to do there too.
There is ample shorter climbing in the range, and nice places to be.
Hazards include falling rock and weather. The latter is especially nuanced, with lightning being my particular fear, after reading about the team being hit after summiting one of the Howsers, which describes the author coming to seeing his partner laying, still unconscious, with his clothing smoking...
...ability to travel in an alpine setting is necessary, but this is relatively mellow, and knowledgeable people learn quickly.
There are places to go "off the beaten path" but less and less as time goes on, the 80s were wonderful because it seemed the range was more than large enough to hide everyone. In the 90s the annoying sound of the heli-hikers going out disabused us of the idea that we were in a remote corner of the world.
I'm talking myself into a trip with Jaybro to look at Jello's airplane scouted big wide crack!
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Dec 15, 2008 - 01:27pm PT
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Blame Canada!
But, those other places that Clint mentions;
Supertacoan Mike Freidrichs has climbed a bunch at Elephants perch and is very enthusiastic about it. He has made the comparison that there are multiple routes of "Astroman level quality," I don't know how well it adhers to the 10 pitch rule. Ten or fifteen yrs ago, Bird Lew asked me if I knew anything about climbing there. I asked Mike, and he gave a bunch of info that I passed on. Maybe I can round that up next time I'm at the ranch.
Rev Mike of the Greater Vail area went to El Gigante a few years ago to attempt that "Longest Sport Climb in The World"™. He seemed to think there was a bunch of worthwhile stuff to do there. I spent most of a drive from his house in Eagle en route to Rifle, looking at his photos and videos of the place stored in his camera.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Dec 15, 2008 - 01:35pm PT
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Cochamo, Chile.
Rio de Janiero and inland areas of Brazil with granite domes up to 1300m high
South Africa has lots
Frey area of Argentina has numerous 10-pitch plus routes plus cragging.
Kota Kinabalu - Malaysia
numerous tepuis in Venezuela.
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mongrel
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
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Dec 15, 2008 - 01:49pm PT
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If you must have snow-free during N. temperate winter, you are headed for El Esfinge, or Argentina, or Africa. But during our summer, there are numerous fabulous pure rock lines, including many >10 pitches, in the two oldest big-mountain destinations: Mt. Blanc range and Canadian Rockies. You may have to stroll over a well-marked glacier with zero or minimal crevasse hazard to get to the base, then change into climbing shoes and motor up long pure rock routes, 5.9 to 5.12 whatever you wish. The numerous routes engineered by Piola and his ilk have perfect chain belay/rap stations the whole way, 6 to 20 pitches. Dolomites are terrific but the moderates have significant loose stones lying around (the rock you actually climb on often being quite solid). Rockies do not have too many continuously hard lines, but a few, and always with one or two bands of stuff that it is a miracle it is sitting there at the angle it is. Yamnuska is pretty firm, but I don't think meets the 10 pitch threshold.
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DanaB
climber
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Dec 15, 2008 - 01:49pm PT
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I've been to the Dolomites, and some of the walls there are 2000-3500 feet, some (the Civetta) perhaps a little bigger.
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lars johansen
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Dec 15, 2008 - 01:52pm PT
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Saw some very promising looking big walls in southern Turkey near Antalya. Research tells me the Brits have been there. Lots of shorter stuff on sea cliffs in Turkey and Greece.
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WallMan
Trad climber
Denver, CO
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Dec 15, 2008 - 02:39pm PT
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Melissa - the North Ridge of Mount Stuart from the bottom to the top is over 3000 vertical feet of rock. Stellar climb - close to home - cool bivy options. Very little and easy snow for the approach and descent.
Washington state, the Enchantments is the name of the area.
The 50 crowded classic version cuts in about half way. Instead, start from the bottom, and do the gendarme at the top. Crux is 5.9. Many very cool 5.5 through 5.7 pitches.
Wally
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 15, 2008 - 06:45pm PT
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Thanks a million. That's lots of googling fun, and hopefully a few memorable real destinations too. :-)
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Captain...or Skully
Gym climber
Where are YOU from Holmes?
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Dec 16, 2008 - 12:43am PT
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WooHoo!
Rocks.
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Rudyj2
Trad climber
UT
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Dec 16, 2008 - 08:44am PT
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Bump for big rock faces.
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David Knopp
Trad climber
CA
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Dec 16, 2008 - 03:23pm PT
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Mt. Slesse n. buttress. some glacier travel, long route not too hard with significant weather issues. Mt. Bardean, the tuning fork-what about combatant, or Tiedemann, too?
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Dec 16, 2008 - 03:41pm PT
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I like glacier travel, I'm just not as psyched for shoveling or climbing through snow.
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scooter
climber
fist clamp
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Dec 31, 2008 - 12:40am PT
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This is a little closer, Mt. Mendel. Pretty steep alpine ice to a few pitches of rock, 5.7-5.8ish. Really fun. And much cheaper and safer than Kryg. or Patag.
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10b4me
Ice climber
the sads
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Dec 31, 2008 - 01:02pm PT
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Melissa,
are you talkin' trad or sport?
if sport, you might head to El Potrero Chico.
A friend of mine just got back from there. She climbed a 12-pitch route.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 31, 2008 - 01:21pm PT
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Traditional, generally speaking, as my sport experience is limited to a few pitches at less than 5.10 w/ a 'leader must not fall' mentality.
I don't do ice or snow at all.
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marv
Mountain climber
Bay Area
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Dec 11, 2010 - 11:38pm PT
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Cobra Pillar, Ruth Gorge, Alaska
maybe a bit of snow on the approach and descent
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Mar 21, 2016 - 11:19am PT
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bump
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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Mar 21, 2016 - 11:52am PT
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Was gonna offer Melissa a dolomites guidebook but figured she ticked off all these suggestions by now. :)
Lofoten looks so cool!!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Mar 21, 2016 - 11:59am PT
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North Face of Poincenot
North Pillar of Pollone
West Face of Fitzroy
Don't dick around in the States.
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Mar 21, 2016 - 09:36pm PT
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Bad Hair Day on the Minaret looks really good, and the approach is about as casual as you can get, provided it doesn't rain. Third week in July seems to be the charm.
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ecdh
climber
the east
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Mar 21, 2016 - 10:16pm PT
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Eastern tibet/western sichuan has loads. Not too cold in summer.
Japan has a big selection of 300-400m granite faces and spires. But dont tell anyone.
Iran. But if the stans dont appeal forget it. Cheap and exotic tho.
Turkey along the black sea has lots of big faces and nice climate.
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johnkelley
climber
Anchorage Alaska
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Mar 22, 2016 - 08:01am PT
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Mar 22, 2016 - 08:50am PT
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Can't believe that no one has mentioned.... LEMBERT DOME
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