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clustiere

Trad climber
running springs, ca
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 26, 2004 - 03:37pm PT
Some that come to mind are. Hidden Treasures (to north san bernadinos) 2000 in print.
the Original Red Book Red rocks.
Red Book Supplement.
Old Guide to Cannon in Franconia Notch.
Brutus of Wyde

climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
Dec 26, 2004 - 04:25pm PT
"Hidden Treasures (to north san bernadinos) 2000 in print.
the Original Red Book Red rocks."

Rare? Heck, man, those are my working copies!

A few others:

The original Desert Rats Josh guide (Hint: Damper was rated F5, a short beginner's route)

Guide to New Jack City (When's an update expected?)

Even rarer:

Brock W's topos of Calaveras Dome

Roper's Guide to Yosemite Valley
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Dec 26, 2004 - 06:36pm PT
The original Desert Rats Josh guide (Hint: Damper was rated F5, a short beginner's route)

I´d love to see a copy of that one--even a photocopy. The original was an orange, soft cover job. Vogle, you must have a copy of that one. Can a brother get qa copy of same?

JL
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Dec 26, 2004 - 06:48pm PT
I've got a 1978 version of "Cannon, Cathedral, Humphrey's and Whitehorse - A Rock Climber's Guide" by Paul Ross and Chris Ellms... date it by the fact that the road map shows Route 3 passing under Cannon Cliff...
mrtropy

Trad climber
Nor Cal
Dec 26, 2004 - 07:29pm PT
Only 4 copis of made of a secret area on Ebbetts pass. I made them for X-mas presents this year.
Not that anybody cares.
Brutus of Wyde

climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
Dec 26, 2004 - 08:05pm PT
"That JT Desert Rats guidebook is the one where JL writes the bouldering guide that essentialy says, 'When you enter you enter the Monument you will encounter endless boulders. This is here the bouldering starts. Have fun.'"

Bzzzzt. That was a much later edition.

The original guide was orange but much thinner (about 1/4" thick) and had a paper cover.

Who was there, back in the day?

Largo, I'll see if I can dig up my copy.

Brutus
F10 Climber F11 Drinker

Trad climber
Dec 26, 2004 - 11:46pm PT
I've got the old JT Wolfe guide sittin with the Wilts Taquitz guide and Roper Valley guide, among others, if anyone is interested? Also the 76 Roper High Sierra guide was great for getting on good stuff in the backcountry
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Dec 27, 2004 - 12:00am PT
Hombre, the original Desert Rat guide was even before my time and I´m like 75.

Love to see a photocopy of that one, as well as any of Wilt´s early Tahquitz guides.

JL
F10 Climber F11 Drinker

Trad climber
Dec 27, 2004 - 12:16am PT
JL trying to dig up one of your hand drawn topos for the Throne in mex, that I've hung on to over the years
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Dec 27, 2004 - 01:03am PT
I have a copy of the 6th edition (1979) of the Wilt's "Tahquitz and Suicide Rock" guide, American Alpine Club Climber's Guide... no letter grades (!)

"44. Paisano Overhang Class A3 or 5.12

FA: January 1968; P. Callis, C. Raymond

The three- or four-inch crach which forms the Paisano Jam Crack extends entirely through the pinnacle, providing another route on the exhilarating, exposed East Face. Early ascents were made using three- to four-inch bongs for aid under the ten-foot roof and for the first ten feet on the east face of the pinnacle. Above 5.7 climbing leads to the summit.

The first free ascent by J. Long in 1973 has rarely, if ever, been repeated by other climbers. Two four-inch bongs were driven for protection, their placement being almost as challenging as the climb itself."

Proud!

John, I can copy it it that is sufficient... email me a snail mail address...
Old5Ten

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
Dec 27, 2004 - 01:46am PT
a few obscurities sitting on my shelf-

1965 guide to leavenworth by beckey and bjornstad
1988 a climber's guide to tollhouse rock and vicinity (by haymond?)
1979 poorperson's guidebook: free climbs of devils tower by horning and marriott

note a guide, but still a fine read-
1956 belaying the leader by leonard, wexler, siri, wilts, brower, harris, and pridham

old5ten
Gunkie

climber
I don't get mad, I get stabby -- Fat Tony
Dec 27, 2004 - 04:32pm PT
"I've got a 1978 version of "Cannon, Cathedral, Humphrey's and Whitehorse - A Rock Climber's Guide" by Paul Ross and Chris Ellms... date it by the fact that the road map shows Route 3 passing under Cannon Cliff... "

I've got that one (red cover).

I also have the 1972 Shawangunk Rock Climbs (blue) by Dick Williams in MINT condition. Hey, Stirrup Trouble is actually 5.6 A3!

I have the Dick's red book (Gunks guide, 2nd edition) from 1980 in mint condition. I also have a very beat-up version :) And Stirrup Trouble is now 5.10 [very solidly 5.10].

How about the 1976 Adirondack Rock and Ice Climbs by Thomas Rosecrans? I have it. Does anyone else?

I have the 1982 hardback TRAPROCK Connecticut Rock Climbs by none other than Ken Nichols himself. That's a classic. It's Ken Nichols personal ego trip in print. 1000's of climbs, majority of FA's by Kenny and his posse.

I've got others...

I am an old coot. Angry too.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Dec 27, 2004 - 04:53pm PT
got the red Williams guide, totally beat up, "'gunks rigged", never part with it...
1992 Jim Thornburg "Bay Area Rock Climbing" pamphlette... Potlicker Press.. already out of print (there is a new Falcon guide)
1983 "Rock Climbs of Tuolumne Meadows" Reid & Falkenstein
1971 Roper's Guide to YV
1979 Climber's Guide to Devil's Lake... with the funky ratings, Widule & Swartling
1982 Hudson Valley Ice Climbs, by Rick Cronk... another pamphlette,
1972 "A Climber's Guide to the Adirondacks Rock and Slide Climbs" by Trudy Healy

and some other stuff...

old, but not angry
Blowboarder

Boulder climber
Sandpoint, Idaho
Dec 27, 2004 - 05:09pm PT
I've got Gary the Hermit's hand drawn spiral bound with knittin yarn guide to North Central Washington...


....but really, WGAF?

MY2¢
Gunkie

climber
I don't get mad, I get stabby -- Fat Tony
Dec 27, 2004 - 09:51pm PT
I am looking for the 1964 (??) Art Gran guide to the Gunks. If anyone has it and wants to sell....
nature

climber
Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 28, 2004 - 10:06am PT
I've got a few copies of "Climbing Guide to the Humboldt County Coast" kicking around if anyone is interested. Of course, those bastards at Falcon Press stole all my info so you can find the same crap in the Northern California Falcon Guide.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Dec 28, 2004 - 03:49pm PT
so what's the scoop on the Copyright laws? it seems for some of the work published before 1 Jan. 1978 that the duration of the copyright is not less than 28 years... coming up on 2006 for that stuff to go into the public domain.

http://www.copyright.gov/

But many of these old guides may have passed into the public domain already. Anyone savy on this? if it is the case, these guides could be made available on the web without violating the author/publisher/whoever copyright.

We could, collectively, make our "treasures" available to whomever in this media.
Mungeclimber

Social climber
N. California
Dec 28, 2004 - 04:02pm PT
I wasn't sure if we are posting what we have for fun, or posting what we have and want to trade or sell, etc.

For Fun: 1955 Pinnacles N.M. guide by Dave Hammack- only .50 cents for the original price. Wow!

For etc.: Jody, if you are looking for the blue bound Wilts guide to Tahquitz, I actually have a second copy. I think they are still in press to be honest. every once in awhile I see them in a shop somewhere.

Looking for: Copy of the Roper Guide Pinnacles N.M. to buy.

Cheers,
Munge

nature

climber
Flagstaff, AZ
Dec 28, 2004 - 04:07pm PT
I'm posting what I have for fun mostly. My guide isn't that old nor is it probably that rare. Still, I do have about a dozen old copies. If anyone really is interested I'd trade you for a beer or somesuch.
Nibs

Trad climber
Humboldt, CA
Dec 28, 2004 - 04:59pm PT
Nature - last time I checked the Falcon Guide to Northern California was pulled from the market. I had to get mine from an ABE.com search (just trying to get info on Trinity Alps backcountry climbs - there wasn't much). Northern Mountain Supply and Adventure's Edge refused to carry it even when it was in print because of the direct rip off of the Moonstone/Patricks Point guide (you write that??). Further rumor has it that the guide was pulled due to a lawsuit for including Natural Bridge area out in Hayfork - the site of an Indian massacre.
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