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clustiere
Trad climber
running springs, ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 26, 2004 - 03:37pm PT
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Some that come to mind are. Hidden Treasures (to north san bernadinos) 2000 in print.
the Original Red Book Red rocks.
Red Book Supplement.
Old Guide to Cannon in Franconia Notch.
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Brutus of Wyde
climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
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Dec 26, 2004 - 04:25pm PT
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"Hidden Treasures (to north san bernadinos) 2000 in print.
the Original Red Book Red rocks."
Rare? Heck, man, those are my working copies!
A few others:
The original Desert Rats Josh guide (Hint: Damper was rated F5, a short beginner's route)
Guide to New Jack City (When's an update expected?)
Even rarer:
Brock W's topos of Calaveras Dome
Roper's Guide to Yosemite Valley
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Dec 26, 2004 - 06:36pm PT
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The original Desert Rats Josh guide (Hint: Damper was rated F5, a short beginner's route)
I´d love to see a copy of that one--even a photocopy. The original was an orange, soft cover job. Vogle, you must have a copy of that one. Can a brother get qa copy of same?
JL
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Dec 26, 2004 - 06:48pm PT
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I've got a 1978 version of "Cannon, Cathedral, Humphrey's and Whitehorse - A Rock Climber's Guide" by Paul Ross and Chris Ellms... date it by the fact that the road map shows Route 3 passing under Cannon Cliff...
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mrtropy
Trad climber
Nor Cal
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Dec 26, 2004 - 07:29pm PT
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Only 4 copis of made of a secret area on Ebbetts pass. I made them for X-mas presents this year.
Not that anybody cares.
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Brutus of Wyde
climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
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Dec 26, 2004 - 08:05pm PT
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"That JT Desert Rats guidebook is the one where JL writes the bouldering guide that essentialy says, 'When you enter you enter the Monument you will encounter endless boulders. This is here the bouldering starts. Have fun.'"
Bzzzzt. That was a much later edition.
The original guide was orange but much thinner (about 1/4" thick) and had a paper cover.
Who was there, back in the day?
Largo, I'll see if I can dig up my copy.
Brutus
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F10 Climber F11 Drinker
Trad climber
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Dec 26, 2004 - 11:46pm PT
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I've got the old JT Wolfe guide sittin with the Wilts Taquitz guide and Roper Valley guide, among others, if anyone is interested? Also the 76 Roper High Sierra guide was great for getting on good stuff in the backcountry
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Dec 27, 2004 - 12:00am PT
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Hombre, the original Desert Rat guide was even before my time and I´m like 75.
Love to see a photocopy of that one, as well as any of Wilt´s early Tahquitz guides.
JL
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F10 Climber F11 Drinker
Trad climber
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Dec 27, 2004 - 12:16am PT
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JL trying to dig up one of your hand drawn topos for the Throne in mex, that I've hung on to over the years
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Dec 27, 2004 - 01:03am PT
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I have a copy of the 6th edition (1979) of the Wilt's "Tahquitz and Suicide Rock" guide, American Alpine Club Climber's Guide... no letter grades (!)
"44. Paisano Overhang Class A3 or 5.12
FA: January 1968; P. Callis, C. Raymond
The three- or four-inch crach which forms the Paisano Jam Crack extends entirely through the pinnacle, providing another route on the exhilarating, exposed East Face. Early ascents were made using three- to four-inch bongs for aid under the ten-foot roof and for the first ten feet on the east face of the pinnacle. Above 5.7 climbing leads to the summit.
The first free ascent by J. Long in 1973 has rarely, if ever, been repeated by other climbers. Two four-inch bongs were driven for protection, their placement being almost as challenging as the climb itself."
Proud!
John, I can copy it it that is sufficient... email me a snail mail address...
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Old5Ten
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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Dec 27, 2004 - 01:46am PT
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a few obscurities sitting on my shelf-
1965 guide to leavenworth by beckey and bjornstad
1988 a climber's guide to tollhouse rock and vicinity (by haymond?)
1979 poorperson's guidebook: free climbs of devils tower by horning and marriott
note a guide, but still a fine read-
1956 belaying the leader by leonard, wexler, siri, wilts, brower, harris, and pridham
old5ten
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Gunkie
climber
I don't get mad, I get stabby -- Fat Tony
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Dec 27, 2004 - 04:32pm PT
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"I've got a 1978 version of "Cannon, Cathedral, Humphrey's and Whitehorse - A Rock Climber's Guide" by Paul Ross and Chris Ellms... date it by the fact that the road map shows Route 3 passing under Cannon Cliff... "
I've got that one (red cover).
I also have the 1972 Shawangunk Rock Climbs (blue) by Dick Williams in MINT condition. Hey, Stirrup Trouble is actually 5.6 A3!
I have the Dick's red book (Gunks guide, 2nd edition) from 1980 in mint condition. I also have a very beat-up version :) And Stirrup Trouble is now 5.10 [very solidly 5.10].
How about the 1976 Adirondack Rock and Ice Climbs by Thomas Rosecrans? I have it. Does anyone else?
I have the 1982 hardback TRAPROCK Connecticut Rock Climbs by none other than Ken Nichols himself. That's a classic. It's Ken Nichols personal ego trip in print. 1000's of climbs, majority of FA's by Kenny and his posse.
I've got others...
I am an old coot. Angry too.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Dec 27, 2004 - 04:53pm PT
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got the red Williams guide, totally beat up, "'gunks rigged", never part with it...
1992 Jim Thornburg "Bay Area Rock Climbing" pamphlette... Potlicker Press.. already out of print (there is a new Falcon guide)
1983 "Rock Climbs of Tuolumne Meadows" Reid & Falkenstein
1971 Roper's Guide to YV
1979 Climber's Guide to Devil's Lake... with the funky ratings, Widule & Swartling
1982 Hudson Valley Ice Climbs, by Rick Cronk... another pamphlette,
1972 "A Climber's Guide to the Adirondacks Rock and Slide Climbs" by Trudy Healy
and some other stuff...
old, but not angry
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Blowboarder
Boulder climber
Sandpoint, Idaho
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Dec 27, 2004 - 05:09pm PT
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I've got Gary the Hermit's hand drawn spiral bound with knittin yarn guide to North Central Washington...
....but really, WGAF?
MY2¢
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Gunkie
climber
I don't get mad, I get stabby -- Fat Tony
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Dec 27, 2004 - 09:51pm PT
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I am looking for the 1964 (??) Art Gran guide to the Gunks. If anyone has it and wants to sell....
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Dec 28, 2004 - 10:06am PT
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I've got a few copies of "Climbing Guide to the Humboldt County Coast" kicking around if anyone is interested. Of course, those bastards at Falcon Press stole all my info so you can find the same crap in the Northern California Falcon Guide.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Dec 28, 2004 - 03:49pm PT
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so what's the scoop on the Copyright laws? it seems for some of the work published before 1 Jan. 1978 that the duration of the copyright is not less than 28 years... coming up on 2006 for that stuff to go into the public domain.
http://www.copyright.gov/
But many of these old guides may have passed into the public domain already. Anyone savy on this? if it is the case, these guides could be made available on the web without violating the author/publisher/whoever copyright.
We could, collectively, make our "treasures" available to whomever in this media.
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Mungeclimber
Social climber
N. California
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Dec 28, 2004 - 04:02pm PT
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I wasn't sure if we are posting what we have for fun, or posting what we have and want to trade or sell, etc.
For Fun: 1955 Pinnacles N.M. guide by Dave Hammack- only .50 cents for the original price. Wow!
For etc.: Jody, if you are looking for the blue bound Wilts guide to Tahquitz, I actually have a second copy. I think they are still in press to be honest. every once in awhile I see them in a shop somewhere.
Looking for: Copy of the Roper Guide Pinnacles N.M. to buy.
Cheers,
Munge
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Dec 28, 2004 - 04:07pm PT
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I'm posting what I have for fun mostly. My guide isn't that old nor is it probably that rare. Still, I do have about a dozen old copies. If anyone really is interested I'd trade you for a beer or somesuch.
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Nibs
Trad climber
Humboldt, CA
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Dec 28, 2004 - 04:59pm PT
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Nature - last time I checked the Falcon Guide to Northern California was pulled from the market. I had to get mine from an ABE.com search (just trying to get info on Trinity Alps backcountry climbs - there wasn't much). Northern Mountain Supply and Adventure's Edge refused to carry it even when it was in print because of the direct rip off of the Moonstone/Patricks Point guide (you write that??). Further rumor has it that the guide was pulled due to a lawsuit for including Natural Bridge area out in Hayfork - the site of an Indian massacre.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Dec 28, 2004 - 05:06pm PT
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The blue Wilts guide (1979) is still available from Chessler Books (Mike Chessler bought up all of the AAC's vast supply). Chessler sells these on eBay pretty regularly. They are common and cheap.
The varius Tahquitz Guides are as follows:
1. Jim Smith's Tahquitz Guide (1937) mimeo with 6 routes listed. Only one original copy known.
2. William Shand, A Climber's Guide to Tahquitz Rock (1943) 9 page mimeo listing 20 routes. This is before the decimal rating system, routes are rated Easy, Moderate and Hard Class 5.
3. So. Cal RCS. Revision Sheet No. 1 (A supplement to Shand's duide. 2 pages mimeo.
4. Chuck Wilts, Don Wilson, Climber's Guide to Tahquitz (1956) 39pp. This is the first guide to use the new decimal system (devised at Tahquitz Rock by Wilts, Robins and Wilson). The first Wilts guide and pretty darn scarce.
5. Chuck Wilts, A Climber's Guide to Tahquitz Rock (1962) 92 pp.
6. Same, Supplement to ...... (1965) 12pp.
7. Wilts, Pat Callis & Charlie Raymond A CLimber's Guide to Tahquitz, Including a Guide to Suicide Rock (1970) AAC publisher, 132 pp. Rust colored cover stock.
8. Same, 2nd printing. Identical to above except smooth orange cover stock.
9. Chuck Wilts, 1971 Supplement, ...... (1971) 16pp.
10. Wilts, Callis & Raymond (1973) AAC publisher. 156pp
11. Wilts, 1974 Supplement to ...... (1974) 21pp loose pages to be inserted in #10.
12. Wilts, A Climber's Guide.... (1974) Self Published. 156pp + 12 pp supplement. Similar to #10, but no longer AAC and other differences.
13. Wilts, A Climbers Guide..... (1979) 208pp. The blue covered guide referenced above.
14. - 21. Various topo and other guides since including supplements.
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Dec 28, 2004 - 05:12pm PT
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Hey Nibs,
Wow, interesting information. I do have a copy of the Falcon guide for northern california. You are correct - it is a direct rip off from the Moonstone/Patricks Point guide and yeah, I wrote the original. And you want to know the hillarious part. Look through the part where they stole my work. Every other reference to me, including in the notation in Appendix A is wrong - half the the time they cite my name as "David W. La Farge" (it would be Douglas, thankyoubeerymuch). Those knuckleheads can't even get a ripped off citation correct.
I didn't realize NMS and Adventure's Edge refused to carry that guide. I suspect it was for more than the fact that they ripped me off. Either way, I guess I owe Larry and Scott a bit of a "thank you".
The funny thing is that book came up in converstation over the weekend. We were discussing how Falcon had ripped off a bunch of stuff for the Arizona guide (in southern AZ).
I never made a big deal out of it but I am glad I never took them up on the offer to write the northern cali edition.
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10b4me
Trad climber
Where Fair Oaks meets Altadena
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Dec 28, 2004 - 06:15pm PT
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How about Roper's guide to the High Sierra?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Dec 28, 2004 - 09:21pm PT
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Roper's High Sierra Guide is still in print I believe... or at least around in inventories enough to be fairly easy to acquire.
The Starr guide might be an intersting find
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Melissa
Big Wall climber
oakland, ca
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Dec 29, 2004 - 12:42am PT
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If there's an OOP guide or other book that you want, keep checking amazon.com. I've found a few there before. Sometimes they're really cheep too b/c the used bookseller that's selling it, doesn't know what it is.
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Fungus Amongus
Big Wall climber
Single Cell
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Dec 29, 2004 - 02:44am PT
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Looking for a copy of Spencer's book (So. Yosemite Climbs).
Copies are hard to come by.....maybe I should look to Garcia for his version: So. Yosemites Slimes :P
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Nate D
Trad climber
San Francisco
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Dec 29, 2004 - 12:30pm PT
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The Spencer SoYo guide isn't terribly rare, although out of print. I'll never part with mine - it's kinda bursting at the seams, if you know what I mean...
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steelmnkey
climber
Phoenix, AZ
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Dec 29, 2004 - 01:04pm PT
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Ah...nice topic.
The original (at least the one I think was first) orange cover 1/4" Desert Rats Guide to Josh was published in 1970. Various editions followed with the expandable post binding system that allowed pages to be added. I had a friend that said when he was there in the '70's, the guys who wrote it used to come through the campgrounds in Josh selling supplement pages that you could put in your book.
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Nibs
Trad climber
Humboldt, CA
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Dec 29, 2004 - 01:55pm PT
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Nature -not sure if Larry or Scott are the ones to thank regards refusing to carry the Falcon Nor Cal guide. I think credit belongs to the climber/sales people. I received quite the chilly reception from them in both stores when I inquired. But I still went after it because I heard it contained climbs in the Trinity Alps. Other than a couple of routes on Ycatapom Pk, the rest was very disappointing. I have to dig the guide back out to see if in included Stone House. The beta I have on that I think came from an AAJ... rumors of a draft Trinity guide have been floating around for years – those backcountry climbs are a well kept secret.
I have a copy of your guide -thanks!! Almost posted to the "best beachside crags" thread when you mentioned Moonstone Beach to counter with Patricks Point Wedding Rock area.
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Nibs
Trad climber
Humboldt, CA
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Dec 29, 2004 - 03:50pm PT
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Speaking of the Trinities, a rare guidebook is the Sierra Club Bulletin (SCB), 1936 "Trinity Alps - Recent Observations." It has route descriptions for all of the major peaks. Very cool scramble described for Sawtooth Pk that I will check out next summer when scouting climbs near Morris Meadows.
Was hesitant to mention, but now that I have them all, the SCB's from the '30's are amazing. They document the development of roped climbing in the Sierra - the inclusion of a "climbing notes" section often written by Glen Dawson and Richard Leonard with additions by Norman Clyde; "On the Use and Management of the Rope in Rock Work," by Underhill (1931), "Mount Whitney by the East Face," also Underhill (1932), early women rock climbers: "North Palisade" by Helen Le Conte, and "Mt Humphreys" by Marjory Bridge (Marjory was hard core!) - 1934, "Climbers Guide to the High Sierra - Part 2" by Walter Starr (1938). And there is SO MUCH MORE. I have gotten many great trekking and climbing ideas from these issues... sorry to those that already know about these, but they are a fairly recent acquisition and prized possession that I had to share. working on collecting the '40's now...
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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The most entertaining part of the 70 (orange) John Wolfe guide, J Tree is the little treatise on dealing with tourists and their proper latin clasification. Got lured into doing the Damper in my first season of leading by that one!
Nomad's in J Tree has managed to lay their hands on some of the 79 Willits' Tahquitz guide if you are looking for one. Those that learned in the topo age have no appreciation for the concept that part of route finding skills was knowing the Latin name for various pine tree species.
My favorite Wilits description is for Magical Mystery Tour, at the time a new Evans, Sorensen et. al. route.
"With a name like this it is inapropriate to say more than that the route ascends the difficult buttress between the Sahara Terror and Hoodunnett"
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Jody brags:
I just found copies in my library of the following guides:
Climber's Guide to Tahquitz Rock
Chuck Wilts and Don Wilson-1956
This is the first Wilts guide and it is where the decimal rating system (devised by Wilts, Wilson and Robbins) is first introduced to the climbing public. One of the most historical guides around and quite scarce (only 200 were originally printed). Worth more than the others listed (including the Starr guide you can't find) by many multiples.
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clustiere
Trad climber
running springs, ca
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2005 - 12:03am PT
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A Climbers Guide To THe Adirondacks Rock and Slide Climbs by Trudy Healy. Dedicated to Fritz Weissner and Jim Goodwin
The Climbers Guide to The High Sierra by Steve Roper
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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i got copies of:
schnieder's first sport climbing guide to tuolummne "man...i sure do love all these bolts!"
alan nelson's three-ring binder first-ever guide to tuolumne
all the valley guides from the green roper guide, to the first couple of meyers topo guides, to the meyers and reid pale blue guide (still my favorite)
1st edition roper's guide to yosemite
all the josh guide's starting with the '72 desert rat's guide
and, of course, the '76 scumbag digest guide to mission gorge
the '78 scumbag guide to san diego county crags and boulders
plus a heaping helpin of other junk....
still sorting through the huge archival library of material that duecey put in my care when he left for pagosa...that shit'll be in a special collections library someday.....
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Watusi
Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Man I still have my dog-eared and tattered JT guide...('72?) Gotta go check...
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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I have a photo copy of the topo and guide to Stawberry Peak, Angeles Crest in Southern California. It was written and drawn by Mendenhall and others. I will try and dig it up. I think there were 6 or 7 routes up the N. Face I think it was written in the 40's. I went up there with copy in hand about 10 years ago and went home with a few horror stories of long runouts and loose rock. It was still a fun day to be climbing a piece of history even if the rock was crap. BTW I left a yellow TCU in a crack on one of the routes on the center of the face. If anyone finds it I would like it back :}
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Watusi
Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Yowza Bob! Is there even any way to get a copy of the ol' Scumbag Guide anymore? Does Doug even have manuscripts from those ancient days?
p.s. I just got a chance to see it again at Al Bartlett's, and his was looking worn...
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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I got that old orange J-Tree guide. But dang if I didn't take out all the Oliver Moon essays to make room for Vogel's first JT Guide, the one that fit into the "expandable" orange book.
Sumner used the same printers for his old Tahoe book, that's a cool [green] one.
Somebody once offered my buddy $100 for my Arizona book, too bad I wan't there to sell it!
Is Vogel's book on rare books rare??
:- k
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lad
Trad climber
near Fresno, CA ( land of fruits, nuts and flakes)
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hey Largo and those hailin from SoCA.. - here's an obsure one for yah: Hunk Guide to Orange County Bouldering..
I still have a copy of the Tuolumne underground guide - back when Rock N Ice (Fullerton, CA) was in existence. That guide unleashed my reckless ambition like no other - LOL, (when in doubt, run it out).
Jody: I have Starr's Guide - is that considered rare?
I also have the old Wilt's guide to Tahquitz/Suicide (orange). It was well used in its time ;)
cheers
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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I have a copy of "San Luis Obispo Happy Climbs" by James "Blench and Dwight Kroll, 1978
I think Randy said these were worth some money a few years back, I wonder what it would go for today. Randy?
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Eric Chisholm
Trad climber
Sebastopol, CA
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I have a copy of Roper's "Climbers Guid to Yosemite Valley"
Printed July of 72 (second printing), any one know if is a rare one?
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Yosemite Climbing Association has a copy of two of what I beleive are some of the rarest guidebooks anywhere. One is the "Mountain Records of the Sierra Nevada". This was compiled by Richard M. Leonard and the Committee on Mountain Records, Sierra Club, May 1, 1937. I think there were only 50 copies made and it includes a Yosemite Valley section. The other is "Comments Upon and Record of Ascents of Major Peaks of the Sierra Nevada" by Walter A. Starr, Jr. - 1928-1932. Both of these guidebooks were donated by Kenneth Adam (first ascent of Royal Arches)who recently passed away at the age of 88. These books will be in the Museum once we have a building and I will scan them so that people can read them. It is important to make sure that this history is preserved and kept in one place.
Ken Yager
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steelmnkey
climber
Phoenix, AZ
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Okay, too much time on my hands...this isn't a consumate collection by any means, and I left out some second/etc editions, but I think it's a fairly decent coverage of the history of Joshua Tree guidebooks...
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steelmnkey
climber
Phoenix, AZ
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Again, not a full showing of all the books, but a pretty good sample. The '62 guide states that it's a third edition. The 2001 guide says that it's the 11th guide, so I'm missing four. Randy could probably cite which...
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ron gomez
Trad climber
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I have an old copy of a hand written guide book to Tuolumne by Vern Clevenger anyone ever heard of this one? A gem,very vague but it does do the job, I use to use it. Also have a Tahguitz guide that is in a two ring binder, I don't the author or when it was put together, all hand drawn topos of routes, have a Yosemite guide that is much the same format...hand drawn topos with no discription. Probably got them at either Rock N Ice in Fullerton, Mountain Affair in Laguna or Ski Mart in Newport, does it ring a bell with anyone?
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pocoloco
Trad climber
Idaho
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Climber's Guide to the Adirondacks (Trudy Healy) 1971
Cannon, Cathedral, Humphrey's & Whitehorse (Ross, Ellms) 1978
Adirondack Rock and Ice (T. Rosecrans) 1976
Seneca Rocks (Webster, Pleiss) - red cover, 1976
Seneca Rocks (Webster) yellow cover, 1980
Shawangunks Rock CLimbs (R. Williams) 1980
Southern Rock (Chris Hall), 1981
Basic Rockcraft, Royal Robbins, 1971
Advanced Rockcraft, Royal Robbins, 1973
Found Roper's Guide to YV, 1971, of all places, at a used
bookstore in Florida, a few years ago.
The oldest and possibly rare(?) I have: Pittsburgh Area Climber's Guide, Ivan Jirak, 1971
Just an observation about these guides as I'm turning into an old fart: they are not cluttered with all of the 5.10+ to 5.14 routes that started in the 80's, running between all the old traditional lines that I cannot even begin to dream about ever doing. I need to tear out pages or copy the newer guides for the climbs I can do (I find one about every 5th page now). I probably won't have too may current guides to talk about when someone brings this thread up again in 30 years!
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Chicken SkinnerYosemite Climbing Association has a copy of two of what I beleive are some of the rarest guidebooks anywhere. One is the "Mountain Records of the Sierra Nevada". This was compiled by Richard M. Leonard and the Committee on Mountain Records, Sierra Club, May 1, 1937. I think there were only 50 copies made and it includes a Yosemite Valley section. The other is "Comments Upon and Record of Ascents of Major Peaks of the Sierra Nevada" by Walter A. Starr, Jr. - 1928-1932
Actually a few copies of these are known, but the Starr "Comments" is by far the scarcer. I have a copy of the Lennard Guide (marked #14). Neither of these are very informative as guidebooks, but very cool nonetheless.
Beginning in 1937, The Sierra Club Bulletin serialized "A Climbers's Guide to the High Sierra" which were all separately published as "reprints" and are all very neat, particulalry "A Climber's Guide to Yosemite" by Lennard & Brower. It had a nice B&W photo on the cover.
All of these were later combined and updated a bit and reprinted in a single guide A Climber's Guide To The High Sierra, Preliminary Edition [1949] Edited by Brower, 118pp.
BTW: Pat, the Happy Climbs guide is a classic a certainly worth some money; the amount depending on condition.
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Scared Silly
Trad climber
UT
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One of the early alpine guides is the Coulter & McLanes for the Tetons (circa 1947). Not sure how many were printed. A friend who was working as a ranger in the Tetons in the 60's was given the offical NPS copy after Ortenburger's '65 guide came out. He also got Ortenburger's '56 guide as well which has lots of notes from climbers on new routes.
On those same lines is Fryxell's book "Tetons and Peaks and Their Ascents" (circa 1932, 2nd ed 1972?). Not so much a guide book but more on the history. I have seen more copies of Fryxell's book than Coulter&McLanes.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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The Coulter & McClane guide is a classic and considered to be perhaps the first "real" guidebook to a US Climbing area. Sure other areas had earlier guides, but most were mimeo type guides or reprints. This was a very nicely produced little guide.
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Scared Silly
Trad climber
UT
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The Coulter&McLane guide was followed by Beckey's guide a couple of year latter which was a hardbound book. Talk about a volume for that time. Of course let us not forget our neighbors to the North. Thorington was doing guides to Canadian Rockies starting in 1920s. These guides were all published by the AAC as nice small hardbound guides that could fit into your pocket.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Dec 12, 2009 - 01:09am PT
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"Those that learned in the topo age have no appreciation for the concept that part of route finding skills was knowing the Latin name for various pine tree species."
very interesting. I sort of knew this was the criteria, but only tacitly.
another kewl thread
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Dec 12, 2009 - 04:50pm PT
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Like many threads, where are the pictures?
Here are a sampling of some of the guides discussed:
Gran Gunks Guide (in DJ) & Coulter & McLane Tetons Guide
Conn Guide to SD Needles & Stanford Univ. Climbing Guide
First Devls Tower Guide & 1956 Tahquitz Guide (where Decimal Rating System first introduced)
First Pinnacles Guide & Brower's edited guide to High Sierra (compiles all the Sierra Club Bulletin Reprints)
Now that we've moved, I actually have access to my old guides. Kinda Fun on a rainy day like this (No MtB or Cragging).
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Dec 12, 2009 - 04:55pm PT
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I have a photocopy of Jim Baldwin's original guide to Squamish, written in late 1962. It exists in handwritten form - Hamie has a copy, possibly the only copy. The typewritten version is eight looseleaf pages, and there are probably few copies in existence.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Dec 12, 2009 - 05:04pm PT
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The Original Red Roper Guide. Pretty common, but nice book and photos.
A much cooler and a scarce guide to GPA by Bruce Morris. One of my favorite guides to the Valley. The grammatical error in the title makes it even more special.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Dec 12, 2009 - 05:13pm PT
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Can't find my new Louie Anderson Riverside Quarry Guide, but here is a blast from the past and as dramatic of a contrast of how climbing has changed. Another favorite guide (for so many reasons).
Listed 25 routes (including Agony Arch). Mostly hard and dangerous aid routes with real ground fall potential. Now the area is a premier sport crag with hundreds of quality sport routes up to 200+ feet long.
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Dec 12, 2009 - 06:17pm PT
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Randy,
Nice ones.
My favorites are a couple of guides to Chamonix written by Edward Whymper of FA Matterhorn fame. They are from the turn of the century (20th) and give you a flavor climbing in the Alps at that time. They provide advice on how to choose a good guide from the local Chamoniards and includes a map of the town back then. I got them from Chessler several years ago.
Rick
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Geno
Trad climber
Reston, VA
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Dec 12, 2009 - 07:24pm PT
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Dec 12, 2009 - 07:28pm PT
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Wilt's predilection for detailed tree references led to some animated discussions over what kind of tree it was and were we in the right place.
Wolfe's suggestions for dealing with turons.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Dec 12, 2009 - 07:36pm PT
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My favorites are a couple of guides to Chamonix written by Edward Whymper of FA Matterhorn fame.
Posted above but the link is dead...
Some more fun...
Randy, you're killin' me...
-Brian in SLC
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Scared Silly
Trad climber
UT
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Dec 12, 2009 - 09:41pm PT
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Over the summer I picked up a copy of Gran's book for less than $40. That was a score. More recently, I found another copy of one of the six early Sierra Club Reprints for the Sierras. I have now have two copies of the last one. It will probably end up at the museum.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Dec 12, 2009 - 09:56pm PT
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rarest of the rare -- SCUMBAG DIGEST!
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Dec 13, 2009 - 12:44am PT
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Then there's this. Seems like I kinda think the author posts 'round here sometimes...
The one every one 'round here wants:
Couple from Tejas...
-Brian in SLC
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Geno
Trad climber
Reston, VA
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Dec 13, 2009 - 05:57am PT
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Brian, Those are great.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Dec 13, 2009 - 06:39pm PT
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Brian. the Carolinas guide by Buddy Price is one of the best of the best. Described as one of the most illiterate climbing guides, it has many other charms as well as scarcity.
Pulled open a box and found these near the top:
Wide Fetish anyone:
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Dec 13, 2009 - 08:29pm PT
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Not so obscure...
One from the right coast:
Couple of local ones:
Wish I had the original (non-photo copy):
Head nod to golsen!
Was headin' to the Dolomites a few years ago, looking for beta. Developing the "hit list" and was hoping to hit the "Via Miriam" in the Cinque Torre. Had read her book, "Give me the Hills". Got this from a bookseller:
Open it up, and, it has Robert Underhill's bookstamp in it. What are the odds? Interesting that the Dolomites were in Austria when the guidebook came out too...
Cheers,
-Brian in SLC
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Pate88
Trad climber
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Dec 13, 2009 - 08:51pm PT
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Pate88
Trad climber
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Dec 13, 2009 - 08:52pm PT
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brotherbbock
Trad climber
Alta Loma, CA
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Dec 13, 2009 - 08:55pm PT
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Here are a couple of Desert Rat guides I inherited from my pops. The orange one was printed in 73, and bound with yarn.
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Pate88
Trad climber
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Dec 13, 2009 - 09:06pm PT
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South Platte- Colorado's most neglected premium granite.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Dec 13, 2009 - 09:35pm PT
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5.10 is one of my Favorite Boulder Guide Books.
Since a couple early Josh Guides were posted, here are a few choice items:
Notice the Cover Shot of The Magnificent Maria leading Solid Gold.
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Pate88
Trad climber
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Dec 13, 2009 - 09:39pm PT
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Not as old as the above- but my first Josh guidebook.
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Klimmer
Mountain climber
San Diego
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Dec 13, 2009 - 09:56pm PT
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The San Diego County Classic:
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Dec 13, 2009 - 10:00pm PT
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Scum Bag Digest is an all time classic (and a good little guide too).
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Klimmer
Mountain climber
San Diego
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Dec 13, 2009 - 10:14pm PT
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Word.
Something about Doug White's writing and BVB's illustrations, quality and irreverent at the same time. Truly it is like a time bottle for the 70s to me. So many good memories. I miss the 70s.
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F10
Trad climber
e350
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Dec 13, 2009 - 11:16pm PT
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From the San Diego County Guide, "thanks to"
John Straight RIP
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Dec 14, 2009 - 12:03am PT
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A couple from the home country...
A few more random ones:
Steelmonkey must be asleep...!
-Brian in SLC
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Dec 14, 2009 - 02:17am PT
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Dec 15, 2009 - 11:55am PT
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Someone asked about the Sierra Club Reprints. Here is one of the coolest of them. A Climber's Guide To Yosemite:
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Pate88
Trad climber
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Dec 15, 2009 - 12:51pm PT
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my tik-list guides from college
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Pate88
Trad climber
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Dec 15, 2009 - 12:52pm PT
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grover
Trad climber
The Gar, BC.
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Dec 15, 2009 - 01:39pm PT
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Some vintage guides indeed!
Brian what year is the Glen guide from?
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Mattq331
Mountain climber
Superior/Boulder/UK
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Dec 15, 2009 - 02:08pm PT
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A few from back home...
So looking at these old guides - and some modern ones as well - off my shelf, I am struck by the fact that UK guidebooks are usually 4.5" x 6.5" and are plastic covered. Even the Moulam guide from 1958 is that size (although it is cloth bound). They fit nicely in a bum pocket, or inside jacket pocket.
Whereas my US guidebooks are generally 6" x 9", with a delicate cover and thick enough to have their own postcode. So why is that? Bigger bums?
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DanaB
climber
Philadelphia
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Dec 15, 2009 - 02:37pm PT
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I have a lot of 'Gunks guides, a 1964 Gran 'Gunks guide, all the Williams 'Gunks guides from 1972 to the most recent (including the two Select guides), all of the Ivan Rezucha 'Gunks supplements, all of the Swain 'Gunks guides, and a Joe Kelsey 'Gunks supplement. Had an opportunity a few years back to buy a set of The Eastern Trade and didn't - dumb.
Tossed out quite a few guides through the years that I now wish I had kept.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Dec 15, 2009 - 03:11pm PT
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Pate88 -- Do you have the Boston Rolls guide that fits into the back sleeve? A rare little underground guide.
Mattq331. Nice British guides. I have a few (including that "Tree-Mud-Rock" Tremadoc Guide), mostly from a climbing trip in 82.
The publication of British guides were dominated by a few publishers and climbing club presses. The format was largely dictated by the publishers which explains the uniformity of guides at any particular time frame.
In the US, many guides have been self published affairs and latter a number of different commercial presses have somewhat standardized things. Also, the demands placed upon a Stannage Guide are far different than one to a place like Josh. The 6x9 format with beefier bindings and covers were primarily the innovation of Chockstone Press/George Meyers.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Dec 15, 2009 - 03:12pm PT
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Whereas my US guidebooks are generally 6" x 9", with a delicate cover and thick enough to have their own postcode. So why is that? Bigger bums?
Nah, better weather, and, better teeth.
Ha ha.
Niagara Glen guide above is 1991.
-Brian in SLC
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bc
climber
Prescott, AZ
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Dec 15, 2009 - 03:47pm PT
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Hey Brian, I've got a copy of Desperate Grace, too!
Lookingsketchythere, I've got the same Riverside Quarry Guide as well.
Here's a couple more...
I found these while working at the old Carson REI.
I picked this up at a used book store in Long Beach (Acres of Books?).
It has no name inside, but the route notations have the name Bill followed by the people he climbed with. Don and Barb O'Kelley, G.M., D. Davis, S. Godshall are among the partners listed. Anyone know who Bill might be??
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Dec 15, 2009 - 03:52pm PT
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the line drawing of keith brueckner on the cover still cracks me up.
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Dec 15, 2009 - 04:10pm PT
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I used to have one of the Bastille Buttress Guides - a very cool one route guide. But never have seen the Lone Pine Peak route guide. Wow.
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Pate88
Trad climber
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Dec 15, 2009 - 04:27pm PT
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lst- i did have that little extra, total classic. unfortunately it did not survive the at least 12 moves in local i've had since the mid 80's when i first got that guide. hard to believe i still have the Boston Rocks one.
a little side story to that guidebook, Dave Breshears is a friend of my mom's. he told her that a long time ago, i think in his 20's when he first began climbing, that he was on a bolder in the Hammond Pond area and a hold broke, causing him to fall backwards and hit the back of his skull on a rock. he was really badly hurt, i think he was in a "minor" coma if there is such a thing, and went through pretty intense rehab to bounce back.
maybe that's why he can do Everest w/ no O's- he's already got the brain damage!
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Pate88
Trad climber
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Dec 15, 2009 - 04:31pm PT
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This one is more of a guidebook for the road of life.
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Reeotch
Trad climber
Kayenta, AZ
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Dec 15, 2009 - 04:34pm PT
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I have a PRISTINE copy of Roper's guide to Yosemite Valley, still has the Sierra Club membership form in it.
What's it worth to ya???
Also, the little red Red Rocks guide (in excellent, not PRISTINE, condition)
Anyone interested in either of these?
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bc
climber
Prescott, AZ
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Dec 15, 2009 - 05:09pm PT
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Bummed that it got burned. I can't remember how that happened.
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Klimmer
Mountain climber
San Diego
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Dec 15, 2009 - 06:10pm PT
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I have a copy of FRED BECKEY'S BLACK BOOK, should I post it up?
(He-he, just kidding)
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Dec 15, 2009 - 06:15pm PT
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Wasatch Granite...Dave still works at REI here.
-Brian in SLC
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Dec 15, 2009 - 07:25pm PT
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Wouldn't mind a copy of this
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MisterE
Social climber
Across Town From Easy Street
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Dec 15, 2009 - 07:35pm PT
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Scott Hopkins and I only released 200 copies of this one:
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bc
climber
Prescott, AZ
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Dec 15, 2009 - 08:11pm PT
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Oplopanax, That's a really hard cover to read. Gold print in tan doesn't translate well. What guide is this?
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JimC
climber
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Dec 15, 2009 - 08:13pm PT
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Here's some old school guides from the Northeast.
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thedogfather
climber
Midwest
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Dec 15, 2009 - 08:36pm PT
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I had an older Oklahoma book but gave it to Andy Chasteen a few years back. I believe it was by Jon Frank.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Dec 15, 2009 - 08:50pm PT
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bc it's the second edition of this one
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Dec 15, 2009 - 08:53pm PT
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I think the tan one is a Coast Ranges guide? Can't see the author's name.
Speakin' of up yonder:
Couple from across the puddle...
Here's a pair of Vallot guides:
Both are inscribed, "B. Washburn 1929". Bit late for the "Amongst the Alps with Bradford" but, what the hey...
Cheers,
-Brian in SLC
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Pate88
Trad climber
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Dec 15, 2009 - 10:39pm PT
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Brian, I thought my meagre little pile of first editions I've purchased from Chessler books was kind of impressive, but MAN, you have some gems. Very nice.
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Nate Smith
climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Dec 16, 2009 - 01:22pm PT
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Nice photos Brian. If any guidebook authors want to do a trade, I'll swap copies of my guide Uinta Rock.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Jan 25, 2010 - 10:25pm PT
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Beat this!
The only guidebook your deservedly humble correspondent was
allowed to grace the frontispiece of.
Of course they mispelled my name as usual.
You can just make out the de rigueur 'Hot Henry' hat I sported for the occassion.
Oh, this is reallly rare:
Hey, it's got a rock!
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Jan 25, 2010 - 10:37pm PT
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Wow, another Oldie but goodie thread.
Pate88--Shipton's book is a classic--I wish I'd have bought
one--I read the one from my local library.
Just picked up a mint copy of Roper's guide (green) to
the Valley at the local thrift store for $1.99. . . to go
with my used copy.
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Tricouni
Mountain climber
Vancouver
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Apr 18, 2010 - 07:31pm PT
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Does anyone know if Randy Vogel ever did more in his "Climbing Guidebooks of the United States" series? All I've heard of is Part 1. California and Arizona.
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Gary
climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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Apr 19, 2010 - 05:39pm PT
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I have a copy of Mike Baca's guide to Christmas Tree Pass, printed on photo paper. RJ Secor sold it to me for a dime.
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Forest
Trad climber
Denver, CO
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Apr 19, 2010 - 07:16pm PT
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Well, it's not so old, but from a pure practicality standpoint, Bob Kerry's Backcountry Rockclimbing in Southern Arizona has been out of print for almost 10 years now, and given that there's nothing else to replace it, that's pretty sad. Fortunately, he was nice enough to let climbaz scan it in and post in on the web, so everyone can at least get at the info: http://www.climbaz.com/Backcountry/backcountry.html
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Apr 19, 2010 - 10:04pm PT
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I have that Fowler guide to San Juan ice climbs.
Think I might even have a later version as well.
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Off White
climber
Tenino, WA
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Apr 20, 2010 - 04:05am PT
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1980 - first buildering guide to the slime shrouded concrete campus in Olympia, WA
I've got the six page xerox guides to the West Stronghold in AZ floating around somewhere too, an artifact from the Spring 86 Beanfest, the first one held on that side of the Dragoons.
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Seamstress
Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
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Apr 21, 2010 - 01:20am PT
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I seem to accumulate guidebooks to the same area. My Gunks collection goes back to Arthur Gran's 1964 guide which has High E at 5.7.
The White Mountains are well represented in my collection. Besides the Ross guide above, I start with Cote's 1969 guide to Whitehorse and Cathedral. It says I can get additional copies for $1.50. I also acquired a '72 Cote guide to Mt. Washington Valley with Henry Barber's '73 addendum stapled into the front. All of Hot Henry's FA's were then written on top of the earlier ratings. Of course, we have all the Webster Guides and the Select.
There is the Reppy guide to Traprock which precedes the Nichols bible, followed by Ragged and Free - a guide sold by folks trying not to put more money into Mr. Nichols pockets while he was making friends. I have the working copy to Whitestone and to Chatfield Hollow that then ended up as with Mr. Fasulo. Dave Fasulo and Harlan's East Coast guide covers the same area. I enjoy watching the names and ratings change over the years. No Connecticut collection would be complete without the working copy of Sleeping Giant or the Climbing Guide for the Monks.
In contrast, the guide to Naturita by Charlie Fowler just looks ancient, but is dated 1990. There is no date on John Page's guide to the Needles. I still don't know where Spire Rock is, but the 1982 Guide is quite polished.
There is the early edition to the Teton Guide that I used in 1992. The paragraph on the Exum was pretty useless for staying on route. Hopefully line drawings were added later....
I have three different guides for Ozone. These aren't old, but the earlier two pre-date the first book "published".
I don't think any guides to Yosemite or Joshua Tree would have been rare. I have more guides to Yosemite than routes I have actually done. That is sad. However, there are lots of routes checked off in the JTree books.
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Prezwoodz
climber
Anchorage
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Apr 21, 2010 - 01:49am PT
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If your from Alaska there all seemingly rare and hard to find. Heres a few that come to mind.
Thin White Line - First climbing guide for the Seward Highway, Paul Denkwalter and Dave Whitelaw. The front cover says 80 not so classic climbs of the Seward Highway. I have one sitting in my office but alas I must return it to the rightful owner.
First Steps - 80s Hatcher Pass guide or early 90's I don't remember. I have never actually seen a copy of it, just copies of a copy. Pollard and Whitelaw
Fat City, Urban Ice 1989 - Local ice guide that was another Pollard, Whitelaw and Davis. Ive seen this one go for over $100. I just bought one 2 minutes ago for $26 and I am stoked! By the way for anyone curious about the progression of guidebooks in Alaska this is still the most current guidebook for the area.
Blue Ice and Black Gold by the late great Andy Embick, 1989. This is a great ice guide that included many climbs in Valdez.
The Scar - Climbing guide for the Seward Highway. Its only about 6 years out of print but its already selling for $70 or more online. I saw one for $189 on amazon for a while...
My guide is pretty much the next one in the line. It was only about 12 years after the previous and the first for many areas.
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book_j
Sport climber
CA
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Jul 25, 2010 - 01:00am PT
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Hi. Does anyone know if this copy of Steve Roper's book is a rarity? It's a hardback from 1964, pretty mint. Trying to decide whether or not to hang on to it.
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Jeremy Handren
climber
NV
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Jul 25, 2010 - 01:08am PT
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Common as muck mate, I'll take it off your hands for a fiver.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 25, 2010 - 01:10am PT
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If you decide to part with it let me know first!
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Jul 25, 2010 - 01:18am PT
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That Roper guide is only semi rare if it comes with a minty dust jacket...
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Jul 25, 2010 - 01:47am PT
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[1964 Roper Yosemite guidebook:]
It depends on what you mean by rare.
There are 2 listed on abe.com for $35 each.
When I think of "rare", it is something which exists, but you cannot find any for sale, even if looking for a year or so (and you know the best places to look).
Other people feel "rare" is something they haven't seen before. But often they have never looked for it....
In coin collecting, there is a scale for rarity, starting with common, proceeding to scarce, and finally rare. The word rare is not used until there are 75 or fewer known of the item.
I'd say the Needles guidebook (Moser, Vernon and Paul) is more rare than the 1964 Roper Yosemite guide. Whether it meets a "one year of searching" type threshold, I'm not sure.
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edejom
Boulder climber
Butte, America
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Jul 25, 2010 - 03:49pm PT
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Old as I got--for Brian in SLC , HardRock , Hooblie , etc...
Dwight Bishop (RIP) on the last cover
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Jul 25, 2010 - 07:32pm PT
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Is that David Vaughan on that last ice guide the same Brass Nuts from here?
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edejom
Boulder climber
Butte, America
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Jul 25, 2010 - 07:59pm PT
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I don't think so, steel...--David V. still lives in Bozeman up the Gallatin River Canyon.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jul 25, 2010 - 11:07pm PT
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scumbag digest forever!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 17, 2010 - 02:49pm PT
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Bump for classic guidebooks!
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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Dec 17, 2010 - 03:41pm PT
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Is that David Vaughan on that last ice guide the same Brass Nuts from here?
Cover photo is of an ol' climbing bud of mine, Dwight Bishop. Photo by a long time dirty soxer and another climbing partner of mine, Edson Dyno, aka, spock, aka Edson Ramjet.
Ron's in his third edition of the Big Sky Ice guide, now?
I have two later copies of Dwight's Butte guide, but, not that one posted. Love to have it, if anyone has a spare!
Geez, I don't even have copies of the last two Bozeman guides (the two current competing ones from different publishers).
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groundup
Trad climber
hard sayin' not knowin'
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Dec 17, 2010 - 04:43pm PT
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Does "one of a kind" count?
I've been able to go through some of Harvey Carters notebooks from the 50's 60's and 70's. There are climbs in there from all over the western US on rocks that some dedicated souls are just now rediscovering. Plus notes about Beckey, Bjornstad, Kor, Kennedy, and tons of other partners.
Bjornstad’s original "Desert Rock" is getting hard to find.
"The Brown Book of Lies" from the South Platte of Colorado, hand bound and looks like it was just photo-copied.
"For Turkeys Only" isn't too rare yet but getting there.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Dec 17, 2010 - 05:30pm PT
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Hey Largo,
I don't know if you ever got pictures of the original Desert Rat Josh guides from Randy or not, but I have them all. Email me and I'll send you some pictures if your still interested.
Take care,
Rob
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Dec 18, 2010 - 02:17pm PT
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I still say my Guide to the Dome of the Rock from the previous page is the
rarest guide posted yet.
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edejom
Boulder climber
Butte, America
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Dec 18, 2010 - 02:21pm PT
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Brian in SLC, I would've sent you an extra one of mine had you said something earlier--I gave my other one to TKingsbury.
As for the two new "Bozeman" guides, I would forego the FA Press (out of business) one, and just pick up the Dockins/Kalakay new edition. A far better guide with a large history section, FA'ers listed, dates, etc...
The FA Press version was an effed-up swan song that is mostly fluff with ALOT of inaccuracies (not to mention the bad juju that it stirred up around these parts).
Either way, just my subjective opinion, but the value and information in the D/K guide is priceless...
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Dec 18, 2010 - 02:24pm PT
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Some fun guides:
An old Tahoe guide (copyright 1976)
The Gagner Pinnacles Guide (complete with life-time electrical-tape-binding guarantee)
Some ol' Central AZ Guide
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Dec 18, 2010 - 02:31pm PT
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I like to collect La Siesta Press guides, this one from 1982.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 18, 2010 - 02:40pm PT
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Who is on that Stoney guide cover shot?
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Dec 18, 2010 - 02:40pm PT
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Dec 18, 2010 - 02:47pm PT
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Steve, sorry but I couldn't find a cover photo credit.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Dec 18, 2010 - 02:54pm PT
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I have great memories of good friends and campfire sessions.
Sumner in his tee-pee all summer long, and a very fine couple.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Dec 18, 2010 - 03:07pm PT
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I love it. They tell where the climb is and the grade. The rest is up to you.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Dec 18, 2010 - 03:26pm PT
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Copyrights 1973 & 1997, respectively.
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Rockin' Gal
Trad climber
Boulder
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Dec 18, 2010 - 07:32pm PT
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The only guide I have that I didn't see listed here is the Climbers' and Fishermen's Guide to Gibraltar Rock, Wisconsin. By Roger Wiegand and Jay Stewart. Second and final edition February, 1972. Edited and Retyped 1984, Michael Wilsonn, Chicago, IL.
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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Climbing Bump
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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A Climber's Guide to the Squamish Chief, 1962, by Jim Baldwin. The original handwritten version. There may only be one copy in the world.
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giegs
climber
Tardistan
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Jul 28, 2011 - 06:13pm PT
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Not rare by this crowds standards, but I found it for a song in Bookmans earlier today. Looks as though it's never been outside.
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Butoou
Sport climber
Malibu
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Jul 28, 2011 - 11:22pm PT
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Does anybody have the first guide book to the Santa Monica Mountains? Dave Katz "Getting High in LA"
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sibylle
Trad climber
On the road again!
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Jul 29, 2011 - 01:41am PT
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I have various older guidebooks, including duplicates of a number if them since I inherited my father's extensive library. I'd post photos but can't get the "photo" button to work today - I use a Mac, and have tried both Safari and Firefox. any suggestions about how to get photos to post?
I have:
Starr's Guide to the John Muir trail and High Sierra Region
Hervey Voge, Climber's guide to the High Sierra, 1965
Kamps -- Needles , 1971
Ament, Eldorado, 1978
Dexter et al. , Lake Tahoe, 1976
Ortenburger, Tetons, 1965
Wheelock, Whitney, 1960
toula, Cheap Way to Fly
Warren Harding - SIGNED - Downward Bound
plus many more
some of Europe that were my Dad's
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Jul 29, 2011 - 01:45am PT
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Sybelle, neat to have a downward bound signed copy.
Butoou, I think I still have my copy. Never really used it, so I may have traded it to a friend living down there.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Nov 23, 2011 - 09:35pm PT
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Nov 24, 2011 - 02:11am PT
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Not sure just how rare but not super common.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Dec 17, 2011 - 11:53pm PT
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Feb 13, 2016 - 09:21am PT
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I was cleaning out a bookcase today and found the first proof from the that Troy made of Sport Crags of Southern California. As well as the old Tahquitz Suicide guide.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Feb 13, 2016 - 09:41am PT
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Also found my notebook that I used to keep track of new climbs we did at Williamson. At the time I called it Eagles Roost because that is what my dad called when he climbed there in the 60's. I also added ice routes I had done up to that point.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Outside the Asylum
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Reilly: I still say my Guide to the Dome of the Rock from the previous page is the rarest guide posted yet.
And if you actually try the climb, a guaranteed stoning will ensue.
Anyone have the guidebook for the pyramids in Egypt?
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Jkruse
Trad climber
Las Cruces, NM
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Came across a first edition of Bjornstad's "Desert Rock" at a local used book store mistakenly placed in the geology section. Paid $10 for it, needless to say I was very excited.
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SilverSnurfer
Mountain climber
SLC, UT.
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copyright 1989 "El Cheepo Guide books"
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sDawg
climber
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Wow. I have the 8th edition of Owens River Gorge Climbs, an early edition of Bay Area Rock by Jim Thornburg, and a Don Reid guide to Yosemite Bouldering that all have flimsy paper covers and 2-staple spines. Must be super old, right? I opened them to find the publication dates were 1999, 1992, and 1998, respectively! Guidebooks have come a long way in the last 20 years and when we complain about how crowded the crags are, remember all we have to do is find a place where the guidebook still looks like one of these and it will undoubtedly be empty.
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