The "Cringe"

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Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 24, 2007 - 12:27am PT
How come you never hear anything about the Crisomed Cringe anymore. 30 years ago that was a Hum Dinger. Gotta still be a classic, good for a journeyman's pump.

JL
Watusi

Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
Feb 24, 2007 - 12:30am PT
That was one of the greats John...A true classic to be sure!!
JuanDeFuca

Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
Feb 24, 2007 - 12:42am PT
Is that at Donner?

JDF
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Feb 24, 2007 - 12:44am PT
well I have certainly not been on it... but it is still a sought after send in the Valley. When we encountered the Offwidth Angel she was heading off to catch up with her friends that were jumping on the Cringe.

In fact, I remember her answering her friends question about borrowing some gear: "sure, the rack is in the back of the car, it's unlocked." She obviously lead a graced life.

As far as I know, they wouldn't have had all that much of a problem with it... the friend had led Generator Crack on sight. They were way honed. Ah youth.
JuanDeFuca

Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
Feb 24, 2007 - 12:46am PT
What is that mega hard climb that Yaniro did at Donner?
What happened to Yaniro?

JDF
Watusi

Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
Feb 24, 2007 - 12:48am PT
That would be "The Grand Illusion" Juan.
Last I heard Tony is as stout as ever!!
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Feb 24, 2007 - 12:58am PT
flashed it. '88. almost died, too. got screwed up in the thin crack section at the start, botched the sequence, so when i got to the long enduro hands section i was already pumped like a three dollar hooker. fired through the undercling without stopping for pro -- having "silk bannana" dialed actually helped here -- and then almost pitched exiting out over the undercling. great route, even better times. and then there was fish crack........


Jeebus!

Its a sad day in hell when Crowlley knows more about route locations than ST regular elite!


seriously deluded.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Feb 24, 2007 - 01:33am PT
you just implied i ain't "elite."

i'm gonna dispatch the hidden valley mutant hitsquad ninja killsquad out to smoke your ass.

enjoy your last breaths, fool. asdf to the core.
Neil

Gym climber
Here and there
Feb 24, 2007 - 10:20am PT
What is this thing all about? I googled it but a good route description didn't come up.
Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
Feb 24, 2007 - 11:08am PT
The "Cringe" is one of my favorite routes in Yosemite. I've done it twice and the first time I thought it overgraded at 5.12A (more like Josh 5.11C)but when I went back a few years ago, it seemed closer to .11D/.12A.

I agree w/ BVB in that underclinging training like Silk Banana or even Diamond Dogs is helpful for the end which had a bolt added to the exit moves onto knobs. This section used to be runout and the site of spectacular 40-50 footers. Do it the old way and skip the cheater's bolt.

Unfortunately, due to the water levels at Cascade Falls, you have to be there in times of low water or it's kind of epic to get on it in dry shoes.

Has anybody tried the grassy seam to the left of the cringe?

Levy
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Feb 24, 2007 - 11:54am PT
here's a great picture of the route...

http://www.rayjardine.com/adventures/climbing/cringe/cringe.shtml

by the man hisself

all you need to know is that it is 5.12 and it's within a short jaunt from the tourist parking spot at lower Cascase Creek...

You can do a Google search and come up with some cool links, like this one in Japan
http://homepage3.nifty.com/cliff/area/trad.htm :

Even closer is Fish Crack (from the same URL):

where you can see the Cringe on the wall in the background... oh, and Free Press awaits you on the other side of that buttress!

susan peplow

climber
www.joshuatreevacationhomes.com
Feb 24, 2007 - 12:09pm PT
Crimson Cringe at Cascade Falls. Last time Russ and I went to go look at it the water level was just too high to cross with ease. Guess it will have to wait for another day.

By the way, who's buying that story of the water level? Largo?

~Susan
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Feb 24, 2007 - 01:16pm PT
OK, Grand Illusion is not at Donner (somebody get the bacon out for Watusi).
But Sugarloaf is in the Tahoe area, so I guess you get a granny point for that one.

As for a bad-ass Yaniro route at Donner, that's still a question. Star Wars Crack? Wasn't that Fry? How about Babalon?

And for the Cringe, me thinks that's the most beautiful crag crack in the Valley (crag being something you can do in a pitch or two).
Just check out those photos!

Should somebody chop the cheater bolt??
WBraun

climber
Feb 24, 2007 - 01:20pm PT
Cheater bolt?

Where is cheater bolt?
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Feb 24, 2007 - 01:26pm PT
The bolt above the undercling, added in the late part of last century.
WBraun

climber
Feb 24, 2007 - 01:33pm PT
That bolt was put there originally by Jardine on the FA. It was pulled by Bachar along with the anchor bolts at the start of the undercling.

The "so called cheater bolt" was then replaced 3 or so years ago by a local because that local fell on the underling and took a big fall.

Need more history?
myballs yourchin

climber
Feb 24, 2007 - 01:39pm PT
Alan Watts did the FA of Star Walls Crack
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 24, 2007 - 01:44pm PT
As the song goes, "Anything you can do, I can do better. I can do anything better than you."

Jardine had his gizmos. Bachar had his nerve and a little oneupmanship was always central to the Valley freeclimbing game, hence the classic JB burnoff.

Needless to say, that route done without camming units is a much stouter proposition. Clearing out unnecessary belays to create more challenging and continuous pitches is the core of the historical bolt schizm as Werner just pointed out.
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Feb 24, 2007 - 01:44pm PT
Thanks for that history lesson Werner! Always helps when you get the fax.

Still, the bolt next to the crack seems out of place. I remember a bomber 3 1/2 Friend at the start of the undercling. But heck, clipping that bolt was still a no-brainer.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Feb 24, 2007 - 02:20pm PT
If I was a bettin' man I'd say that's Yaniro in the pics posted by Ed H.

Also, that Japanes link is a nice lil' tic list...
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