The "Cringe"

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Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 24, 2007 - 12:27am PT
How come you never hear anything about the Crisomed Cringe anymore. 30 years ago that was a Hum Dinger. Gotta still be a classic, good for a journeyman's pump.

JL
Watusi

Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
Feb 24, 2007 - 12:30am PT
That was one of the greats John...A true classic to be sure!!
JuanDeFuca

Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
Feb 24, 2007 - 12:42am PT
Is that at Donner?

JDF
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Feb 24, 2007 - 12:44am PT
well I have certainly not been on it... but it is still a sought after send in the Valley. When we encountered the Offwidth Angel she was heading off to catch up with her friends that were jumping on the Cringe.

In fact, I remember her answering her friends question about borrowing some gear: "sure, the rack is in the back of the car, it's unlocked." She obviously lead a graced life.

As far as I know, they wouldn't have had all that much of a problem with it... the friend had led Generator Crack on sight. They were way honed. Ah youth.
JuanDeFuca

Big Wall climber
Stoney Point
Feb 24, 2007 - 12:46am PT
What is that mega hard climb that Yaniro did at Donner?
What happened to Yaniro?

JDF
Watusi

Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
Feb 24, 2007 - 12:48am PT
That would be "The Grand Illusion" Juan.
Last I heard Tony is as stout as ever!!
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Feb 24, 2007 - 12:58am PT
flashed it. '88. almost died, too. got screwed up in the thin crack section at the start, botched the sequence, so when i got to the long enduro hands section i was already pumped like a three dollar hooker. fired through the undercling without stopping for pro -- having "silk bannana" dialed actually helped here -- and then almost pitched exiting out over the undercling. great route, even better times. and then there was fish crack........


Jeebus!

Its a sad day in hell when Crowlley knows more about route locations than ST regular elite!


seriously deluded.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Feb 24, 2007 - 01:33am PT
you just implied i ain't "elite."

i'm gonna dispatch the hidden valley mutant hitsquad ninja killsquad out to smoke your ass.

enjoy your last breaths, fool. asdf to the core.
Walleye

climber
Yosemite Valley
Feb 24, 2007 - 10:08am PT
Over the years I've met a few 5.12 climbers who aspired to do the Crimson Cringe. I always suggested a "warmup" on Free Press to get the blood flowing. You'd be suprised how many "5.12" climbers left the Cascade Creek Area fully demoralized after being fully shut down on a 10a offwidth he he.....
Neil

Gym climber
Here and there
Feb 24, 2007 - 10:20am PT
What is this thing all about? I googled it but a good route description didn't come up.
Levy

Big Wall climber
So Cal
Feb 24, 2007 - 11:08am PT
The "Cringe" is one of my favorite routes in Yosemite. I've done it twice and the first time I thought it overgraded at 5.12A (more like Josh 5.11C)but when I went back a few years ago, it seemed closer to .11D/.12A.

I agree w/ BVB in that underclinging training like Silk Banana or even Diamond Dogs is helpful for the end which had a bolt added to the exit moves onto knobs. This section used to be runout and the site of spectacular 40-50 footers. Do it the old way and skip the cheater's bolt.

Unfortunately, due to the water levels at Cascade Falls, you have to be there in times of low water or it's kind of epic to get on it in dry shoes.

Has anybody tried the grassy seam to the left of the cringe?

Levy
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Feb 24, 2007 - 11:54am PT
here's a great picture of the route...

http://www.rayjardine.com/adventures/climbing/cringe/cringe.shtml

by the man hisself

all you need to know is that it is 5.12 and it's within a short jaunt from the tourist parking spot at lower Cascase Creek...

You can do a Google search and come up with some cool links, like this one in Japan
http://homepage3.nifty.com/cliff/area/trad.htm :


Even closer is Fish Crack (from the same URL):


where you can see the Cringe on the wall in the background... oh, and Free Press awaits you on the other side of that buttress!

susan peplow

climber
www.joshuatreevacationhomes.com
Feb 24, 2007 - 12:09pm PT
Crimson Cringe at Cascade Falls. Last time Russ and I went to go look at it the water level was just too high to cross with ease. Guess it will have to wait for another day.

By the way, who's buying that story of the water level? Largo?

~Susan
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Feb 24, 2007 - 01:16pm PT
OK, Grand Illusion is not at Donner (somebody get the bacon out for Watusi).
But Sugarloaf is in the Tahoe area, so I guess you get a granny point for that one.

As for a bad-ass Yaniro route at Donner, that's still a question. Star Wars Crack? Wasn't that Fry? How about Babalon?

And for the Cringe, me thinks that's the most beautiful crag crack in the Valley (crag being something you can do in a pitch or two).
Just check out those photos!

Should somebody chop the cheater bolt??
WBraun

climber
Feb 24, 2007 - 01:20pm PT
Cheater bolt?

Where is cheater bolt?
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Feb 24, 2007 - 01:26pm PT
The bolt above the undercling, added in the late part of last century.
WBraun

climber
Feb 24, 2007 - 01:33pm PT
That bolt was put there originally by Jardine on the FA. It was pulled by Bachar along with the anchor bolts at the start of the undercling.

The "so called cheater bolt" was then replaced 3 or so years ago by a local because that local fell on the underling and took a big fall.

Need more history?
myballs yourchin

climber
Feb 24, 2007 - 01:39pm PT
Alan Watts did the FA of Star Walls Crack
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 24, 2007 - 01:44pm PT
As the song goes, "Anything you can do, I can do better. I can do anything better than you."

Jardine had his gizmos. Bachar had his nerve and a little oneupmanship was always central to the Valley freeclimbing game, hence the classic JB burnoff.

Needless to say, that route done without camming units is a much stouter proposition. Clearing out unnecessary belays to create more challenging and continuous pitches is the core of the historical bolt schizm as Werner just pointed out.
k-man

Gym climber
SCruz
Feb 24, 2007 - 01:44pm PT
Thanks for that history lesson Werner! Always helps when you get the fax.

Still, the bolt next to the crack seems out of place. I remember a bomber 3 1/2 Friend at the start of the undercling. But heck, clipping that bolt was still a no-brainer.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Feb 24, 2007 - 02:20pm PT
If I was a bettin' man I'd say that's Yaniro in the pics posted by Ed H.

Also, that Japanes link is a nice lil' tic list...
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Feb 24, 2007 - 02:30pm PT
I tried to follow it on TR in fall'79. I was happy with my progress, but deemed it unfathomably hard.

One guy in our group (which included Kevin Bein and Barbara Devine, BTW, who of course cruised it by the time the TR was set up)
fell off repeatedly and finaly beat his hand on the rock, drawing blood and yelled, "Godamit when will I ever get good?"

We were embarassed for him.
WBraun

climber
Feb 24, 2007 - 02:35pm PT
Maybe Largo remembers that morning when I had to lead the Cringe in the hot sun to fix a rope for his video camera?
Bruce Morris

Social climber
Belmont, California
Feb 24, 2007 - 02:50pm PT
Remember that the late Gary Sacher used to come up from the Bay and lead the "Cringe" every weekend in the late 70s/early 80s.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Feb 24, 2007 - 03:00pm PT
Bruce, I think Gary's last name started with a "Z"?
Shoot, he's gone too?
Man we're a bunch with a short fuse.
Bruce Morris

Social climber
Belmont, California
Feb 24, 2007 - 03:54pm PT
Dunno, Roy. Have to ask Mike Arechiga when I see him at Planet Granite. Mike knows for sure. Gary S[Z]acher, of the Sacher Mantel at Castle Rock, left us last year due to liver failure (about 6 weeks). Not too pleasant. I'll check with Mike soon about the spelling since I want to spell the name of his mantel correctly in the new Castle Rock Guide. What was that W.B. Yeats said about his own "Tragic Generation" dedicated to moments of vivid intensity?
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2007 - 05:27pm PT
Wow, too bad about Gary Sachar (Zachar??). A very good fellow and great crack climber in his day.

I remember Warner leading the Cringe so we could film Suzuki on it and Warner had to follow it yet again. My first time up was with Lynn H. and she pulled bomber hand jams through that rattler section before it arches left. The thin lower section is what give you the flash pump. There's probably no move on the thing harder than .10C but there's 200 of them.

JL
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Feb 24, 2007 - 05:30pm PT
"How come you never hear anything about the Crisomed Cringe anymore."

Actually, JL may have been trolling. You don't think he'd mis-spell "Crimson", do you? There's probably some little known unrepeated route called "Crisomed Cringe".

The Crimson one is well beyond me. But nice to look at, in a pretty area.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Feb 24, 2007 - 06:29pm PT
didn't barber atually name fish crack "cold turkey", but his name never stuck?
WBraun

climber
Feb 24, 2007 - 07:57pm PT
bvb, yes
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 24, 2007 - 08:19pm PT
The Fish Crack was another classic Henry Barber heist. The thing used to sport at least two fixed pins which made it a much more reasonable proposition as a rounded layback problem on lead.

Hugh Herr tried to do it before he lost his feet to frostbite and had to hang to get it. Two years later, the amazing Hugh sent it with mechanical feet! Hugh's climbing ability greatly outpaced his skill with hardware back in those days and I followed his lead cleaning each placement with a stout downward pull followed by a "Hugh, you're a lucky boy." It isn't easy to protect on the lead due to its shallow, flaring nature.

One of these days, the Fish is going back into Cascade Creek as the entire feature is detached; Fish Crack left side, Free Press right. It seems that every time I was up top, the anchors were different and it didn't take long to figure out where the old ones went. They kept loosening and falling out!
WBraun

climber
Feb 24, 2007 - 08:29pm PT
Yeah Steve

Henry is a F'cking thief. You hear that Henry. You are a prick for stealing that climb.

Me and Kauk didn't clean out that climb 2 days earlier so that you could just waltz up there azzhole.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 25, 2007 - 02:09am PT
Some things are just too good to be true no doubt! That puts the stink back in the old Fish Crack. I had a feeling something was up with that particular line. Bummer!
Jobee

Social climber
El Portal
Feb 25, 2007 - 01:10pm PT
Good morning Werner...remember the bolt was replaced by our local comrad "after the whipper" and if my memory is correct it was re-chopped "yet again" by an "interestingly kooky local" (Brian Knight a.k.a. Mr. Way) then our friend went up and replaced it and there she sits ready to clipped or not!

Werner, did'nt Lydia P. take the same fall and hurt her ankle? -she was soooo wicked strong!

Hey Largo, you must come up here again and get on the circuit..it's never to late to get massively pumped on 5.10

jow

p.s. "clippin instead of whippin"!
Off White

climber
Tenino, WA
Feb 25, 2007 - 01:21pm PT
I can't tell ya'll how wonderful it is to get the history from the horses mouth.
dank

Trad climber
the pitch above you!
Feb 25, 2007 - 01:34pm PT
saw a dood on the "cringe" last fall...completely done with the crack...gear all used up...totally smoked...just restin' and lookin' like he wanted to quit and come down...i didn't even want to hang around and watch the ending...didn't seem fair
Bruce Morris

Social climber
Belmont, California
Mar 8, 2007 - 01:22am PT
Roy and Largo, you're both right, Gary's last name was Zacher (not Sacher). So his V4 mantle at Castle Rock around the bulge from the "Spoon" should be called the "Zacher Mantel". I wonder how many times he led the "Cringe"? Asked Mike Arechiga tonight (March 7th) and got the correct spelling. Think Gary used to run a demolition crew down in the Bay Area that also employed quite a few Yo climbers, including John Barbella, during the off season. Recall an incident in which they dropped a compressor into the Bay mud during one of their projects under Gary's supervision. He made them retreive it. Of course, it turned into a major epic.
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder
Mar 8, 2007 - 01:29am PT
I followed Alan Watts when he did a redpoint of the Cringe and got so pumped it made me sick. The first part of the route looks like it's manufactured pin-scars.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Mar 8, 2007 - 02:36am PT
Looks beautiful and I hear Werner cruises it.

A friend of mine went up there and wore one type of shoe on the right for the crack and one type of shoe on the left for the face.

Peace

Karl
bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
Mar 8, 2007 - 03:07am PT
A bit more on Crimson Cringe history.....

Ray Jardine originally led the route in four pitches which probably explains the anchor bolts that some felt were extraneous.

Bruce
bachar

Trad climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Mar 8, 2007 - 10:41am PT
Why did I chop the bolts I did on the "Cringe"? Fair question!

I chopped three bolts on the "Cringe". Two were at the beginning of the undercling and were intended to be belay anchors. Remember, Jardine did the first ascent in four pitches - now it is commonly done in one pitch. These bolts were next to bomber #10 and #11 hex placements - hence no need for bolts if you wanted to belay there.

The third bolt was near the end of the undercling and was placed on rappel. No one at the time was placing bolts on rappel in Yosemite - you had to place them on lead. (Later we found out Bridwell had placed some rappel bolts at the Cookie on the "Wheat Thin"). Furthermore, there already existed underclings far more run out than this in Yosemite and elsewhere.

Anyway, I don't regret chopping these bolts. Placing bolts next to easily protected cracks was considered excessive in those times. Great efforts had just been made to eliminate pitons and the destruction caused by them. I and others felt placing bolts next to cracks was a bad precedent so in the style of the day I removed them.
Peace, JB
Jobee

Social climber
El Portal
Mar 8, 2007 - 12:16pm PT
OMG...UGH! I am such a Dummy!

Got sucked into a local fairy tale about the bolt on "The Cringe"

(-admittedly it really chapped my hide when the bolt went in due to an over inflated igo, plus it was my friend who placed it and I disagreed with her decision to do so at the time).

Yesterday I got this straight from the Horses Mouth..cuz we often climb together and are still good friends.

"Yes, she did replace the bolt, she did take a huge whipper" and "No, as far as she knew, it had not been re-chopped by "Mr.Way" nor did she (RE)-replace it"!

So that makes me "THE HORSES..A..!"

I apologize...especially to (Brian..a.k.a. Mr. Way)
Where is that guy anyway..so he can kick me in the belly.

jow


James

climber
A tent in the redwoods
Mar 8, 2007 - 01:14pm PT
The rumor mill has this pegged as a "proud" yet achievable 5.12 onsight. The water level will be down and the route doable by summer. I have a pair of shoes in mind.

Nice J.B.
atchafalaya

Trad climber
California
Mar 8, 2007 - 02:43pm PT
Yaniro's crack at Donner was "Crack of the Eighties". Stout, and on Snowshed right of Panic, left of Aerial. 12(c), I think.
aldude

climber
Monument Manor
Mar 8, 2007 - 02:53pm PT
Hmmm....Carville(Tahoe Rock) credits Alan Watts with the FA on "Crack of the Eighties".
426

Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
Mar 8, 2007 - 02:54pm PT
that was Alan Watts as well iirc (C/80's). Still a bold lead on thin chit...

Youse guys might be thinking of some of the Dear John climbs Yaniro did at the leap. "ST's own" Mark Hudon and Max Jones did "The Babylon"
doughnutnational

Gym climber
hell
Mar 8, 2007 - 10:51pm PT
Gary's last name was Zaccor. His brother Scot was a very talented but not very dedicated climber who could climb the cringe in tennis shoes (not the sticky rubber approach shoes of today)without too much trouble. Anyone who had the pleasure of working with the Zaccor brothers could probably fill a few page with interesting stories. This group would include Randy Leavitt, Hugh Burton, John Barbella and Greg Child among many others.
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 8, 2007 - 11:58pm PT
"Gary's last name was Zaccor. His brother Scot was a very talented but not very dedicated climber who could climb the cringe in tennis shoes (not the sticky rubber approach shoes of today)without too much trouble."

That's just not fair . . .

JL
James

climber
A tent in the redwoods
Mar 9, 2007 - 12:10am PT
It's fair. Blessed with talent but lacking dedication, only makes 1/2 a climber.
Bruce Morris

Social climber
Belmont, California
Mar 9, 2007 - 12:59am PT
Thanks for the correction regard Gary's last name (i.e. Zaccor). Will change the name of his mantel to the "Zaccor Mantel" in the new edition of the Castle Rock guide, which is going to combine roped climbs and boulder problems. The mantel in question is just to the left of the "Spoon" at the main area and is rated about V4. Didn't know that so many people worked on Gary's crew.
bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
Mar 9, 2007 - 03:56am PT
I remember in the mid 70's Gary Z and Augie Klein hanging around such South Bay Area haunts as Castle Rock and Guadalupe Rock. They couldn't seem to get up anything. Luckily for them, they figured it all out(and pretty darn well, to boot)!

Bruce
Maysho

climber
Truckee, CA
Mar 9, 2007 - 09:28am PT
Really bummed to hear about Gary Zaccor. He and I ran in the same crew for a few years (77-82), along with Augie Klein, Bill Price, Kathy Besio, Kurt Reider, Dave Deiglemann. They all had gone to the same high school in Redwood City. (Where Kauk also attended for a couple of years, I think, they had a great outdoor program.) He was a fun hyper madman, climbing hard and working hard growing a major tree removal operation that became a booming business in demolition and removal of stuff from toxic sites, specializing in the maritime docks etc. He spent some time battling Owl Roof, succeeding one day I am pretty sure. Gary and I did an early ascent of the Crucifix and were the first party to link Mary's Tears and free the pitches that Max and Mark had just freed at the top, he scampered the wide, and I did the thin.

The Cringe was an important piece of the "hard" circuit in those days that included the Calculator, Energy Crises, Red Zinger, and Fish Crack, to get in shape for Astroman. There were not too many people who could fire those pitches back then and as teenagers we were pulling early ascents of these classics, some good years. My first good go on the Cringe was in 78, 16 years old, I had one #2 friend to add to my 3 7 hexes. I f*cked myself with the cam, at the one spot near the top where it thins down to 1.25" where you have to pull two harder jams with a wicked pump, I stuck the friend as high as I could, then could not get the rope up to it with my melting arms, in desperation I gave one final effort getting a bight of rope to the biner, gate was flipped to top load, and I fell with stacks of rope in my hand, I vividly remember the instant relief in my body of letting go of the rock overcame my fear during a 45 foot arcing plunge. Came back a few months later (put the cam in waist height) and sent it with Dave Yerian following. I want to go for it this year, maybe I can make a 28 year anniversary ascent with Yerian, he is still quite fit.

Zaccor dying is good motivation to call up some of these old friends.

Peter
the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
Mar 9, 2007 - 11:28am PT
Great post here. lot's of history and some ethics...
So i want to chime in now..
the cringe was the first 5.12 that i managed to on-sight. that was spring of 1984 and i did it with malcolm matheson aka HB...
i will always remember that day as i was nervous about trying it, i did not think i was strong enough, i borrow every # 2 friend i could get my hands on and sent it with the wicked pump going the whole way. i don't remember any bolts and i do remember the traverse at then end being a bit sporty.
I agree with John, that doing the route in 4 pitches is not an fa, and bolts next to cracks are not necessary, especially with todays modern gear.
with that note i want to open another can of worms..

COOKIE MONSTER..
i lead this route on all gear, ground up, full red point, no dogging and now it's a sport route! it has been chopped and replaced a few times. They never asked for my permission and i would have said no anyway....
now i know it is very popular, i just want to say i think it sucks and i fear for all the classics may go the way of the spineless...
if you want to step up to the game ad experience climbing at its best, then don't add bolts to existing routes.. just climb them or walk past them!
ks
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Mar 10, 2007 - 11:23pm PT
Right on Kurt!

And now for a tale of bloody adventure from a time before climbing became "critically easy" to quote RR!

Team Teutonic arrived Friendless in the Valley one season. Their sole purpose and aim, to master the Crimson Cringe. “Wolfgang, Hans und Richard,” chirped Bulwinkle announcing the formidable German roster with relish at every opportunity. The team supreme had been assembled cleverly to fit the problem at hand.

Wolfgang was Wolfgang Gullich, unknown but talented and strong, to cover the middle of the size range.

Hans, who could have been a bouncer anywhere, had the large end filled in nicely towering above his compatriots.

Richard, gaunt and missing several teeth, defined thin, wiry and tenacious. He looked like a guy who had never missed an expedition in thirty years, tough as nails. In addition to scrappiness, I figured that he was along to contribute to the requisite masochism and nationalistic flagellation necessary to achieve victory lest youth should falter.

And so it was that the Crimsom Siege began. Day after day, the eager threesome threw themselves at its parallel universe only to return more bloodied and beaten. I was in the rescue site at the time and made friends with Wolfie early on. After the third or fourth round, I chided him for being fixated on such a short route with thousand meter walls all around as a canvas. He looked at me with the desperation of a condemned man and half-sighed, “you don’t understand, we MUST climb the Crimson Cringe.” Some mysterious ancient hierarchy clearly dictated suffering and would be unsatisfied with any fun.

Oddly enough, after their entire self-mutilation vacation came to an end, I can’t clearly recall whether the old gods smiled and were sated at the bloodletting allowing the lads passage or not. Once Friends could be had by one and all, the price of submission moved elsewhere leaving to the mists of time the hard sought gains of three brave men, Friendless in the embrace of the Crimson Cringe.
Raydog

Trad climber
Boulder
Mar 10, 2007 - 11:37pm PT
Great post Kurt - it is possible you had one or two of my #2's with you that day...

I agree this is way historical and interesting.

I know Augie and KB were good friends w/ Tami Knight.

A good friend of mine is her partner now - this cat Phil Holman - an awesome artist in his own right.
Pate

Trad climber
Apr 23, 2010 - 02:44pm PT
Crimson Cringe bump
matty

Trad climber
los arbor
Apr 23, 2010 - 07:01pm PT
There is some great footage of Kauk climbing this in "Return to Balance"

more eye candy from the web:


martygarrison

Trad climber
The Great North these days......
Apr 24, 2010 - 08:24pm PT
Both times I did the Cringe I belayed at the top of the crack, right before the undercling. Not for any reason other than I was dang pumped!
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
Apr 24, 2010 - 09:13pm PT
Somewhere I have a bunch of pics of Bill Price leading the thing. Nice style for sure. However his belayer was unable/unwilling to follow so Bill rapped down cleaning pro as he went. I sat on the ground wondering, from a vector perspective, what was going to happen at the end. Well... Bill got to the last piece, his rope making about a 30-degree angle up to the rap point and hung on the piece realizing he was in a bit of a predicament. He swallowed, yanked the piece and swung left at gathering speed toward the dihedral that Free Press goes up. He hit that wall at max speed and I swear his legs compressed to a point where his knees were behind his head. I was sure something was going to crack and shatter.

Bill rapped to the ground, pulled his ropes and walked away.
Flanders!

Trad climber
June Lake, CA
Apr 24, 2010 - 09:29pm PT


The Cascade Falls routes are the best:
the Cringe and Fish Crack, and yes Walleye....the Free Press ! All good stuff,
wonder if I could even follow that stuff anymore.

Doug
Chief

climber
Apr 24, 2010 - 09:46pm PT
The Cringe is probably one of the few hard Valley classics I was able to on sight so it means a lot to me. Did it all in one pitch back in 97? before the bolt was put back at the undercling. I stood on that ledge a long time looking at the corner down left thinking, "I don't want to blow this and it could really hurt if I do."
Alexey

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Jan 17, 2011 - 07:30pm PT
Bump as interesting climbing tread and nice photos.
Where those routes "Silk Banana and "Diamond Dogs"- Levy mentioned above?
Levy wrote:I agree w/ BVB in that underclinging training like Silk Banana or even Diamond Dogs is helpful for the end which had a bolt added to the exit moves onto knobs. This section used to be runout and the site of spectacular 40-50 footers. Do it the old way and skip the cheater's bolt.
squatch

Boulder climber
santa cruz, CA
Jan 17, 2011 - 08:45pm PT
how about heading right around the corner to train on underclingon at Pat and Jack?
Alexey

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Jan 17, 2011 - 11:40pm PT
thanks, is is excellent Beta, do not delight it.
And Undercligton at Pat and Jack is really close and around the corner. Probably much harder than undercling on CC ?
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jan 17, 2011 - 11:46pm PT
I fell on it in '79, on a toprope. Since then, I've been waiting until the time is right.
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Sep 27, 2011 - 04:33pm PT
Was remembering Croft's part in Moving over Stone, where he crosses the creek and starts up the cobbles, cordless.
Alexey

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Sep 27, 2011 - 04:46pm PT
in his movie "Return to Balance" Ron climb the Cringe effortless. Started at 10:00 min

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hMHMvjmZDg4
WBraun

climber
Sep 27, 2011 - 04:51pm PT
I was there on the First real ascent of "The Cringe"

Bachar Kauk Bard, me & anyone else (I can't remember).

Jardine said it couldn't be done with hexes.

Kauk told him we'll have to prove you wrong.

Bachar and Kauk flip for the lead.

Bachar wins and says "I'll lead until I'll get pumped and then Ron can try it.

Bachar flashes. LOL

Jardine walks away ......
Alexey

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Sep 27, 2011 - 05:53pm PT
Werner, it looks like Ray Jardine was guarding all routes he climbed with the friends, waiting for Ron to show up with hexes:

For those of you who want some interesting history about hang dog flyer here goes.

I went there with Kauk to watch him do the second ascent. When out of the woods came Ray Jardine who as you know, did the first ascent. He tells Ron he’ll never do it without friends. Now at this time in history there are none. Ray is the only person that has them since he’s the inventor and they haven’t been manufactured yet. As I recall we’ve never even seen them yet.

We go over and check these things out that would later revolutionize the state of protection in climbing. Ray tells Ron that he can use the ones he brought. Ron politely declines with the understanding that since no one else has them that he’ll continue to use what’s available to everyone else, “Hexes”. Ray’s now kind of disappointed and tells Ron you’ll never do it with hexes. Just the words Ron wanted to hear at that moment. Ron is now determined to prove Ray wrong.

Ron goes on to lead the second ascent of hang dog flyer with hexes.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=66702&tn=0&mr=0
CrackAddict

Trad climber
Joshua Tree
Sep 27, 2011 - 07:06pm PT
I can maybe see hexes on the Cringe if you run the upper part out a bit, but Hangdog Flyer? Was it a Yo-Yo'd lead or did he flash it? Pretty impressive either way though.
BG

Trad climber
JTree & Idyllwild
Sep 28, 2011 - 12:46am PT
Credit: BG
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Aug 19, 2013 - 03:55pm PT
Bump!
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