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mikeyschaefer
climber
Sport-o-land
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 7, 2019 - 12:30pm PT
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Hey all- I thought I’d throw this out to the supertopo community and see what happens.
Cheyne Lempe and I are developing a film project with Patagonia and we are searching for stories and characters. We’re looking for people to profile who have an unusual, unsung story behind their climbing. They didn’t learn to climb in a gym. Maybe they are from an unusual spot near one of the great crags (El Portal, CA; Slade, KY; Moab, UT; Clanwilliam, ZA; Vinales, Cuba, etc.. ). They don’t have to climb crazy hard but they need to be super dedicated and be intimate with their local crag. Ideally these climbers are engaged in their local community and are making a positive impact by being a local advocate or just a good ambassador. These people are the super locals of the crag or area and are probably fairly obsessed with climbing.
If anyone knows someone that roughly fits this description I’d love to be put in touch with them.
Feel free to email me at mikeylikesrocks at gmail if you have any questions or an idea.
Thanks!
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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Karl and Kiefer(Sp?) Kelley in Moab
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jack Fieldhouse in Squamish.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Mikey, I think Dan McDevitt match your description. All live dedicated to climbing, last 30 years[ maybe more] in El Portal [ except of recent one] besides that he developed so many stellar routes in the Valley - the hole Fifi Buttress mainly developed by him and his friends. He is keeping low profile, modest, but still everyone know him and he knows everyone., so it will be some stories. I think you can make an interesting character of him in your movie
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Jim Clipper
climber
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todd gordon? may not fit the description entirely, but he seems to deserve some celluloid immortality, and he may be someone that the up and coming climbing community needs to hear about.
i'm sure that most everyone has a story about Rancho Gordon.
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hellroaring
Trad climber
San Francisco
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I nominate Brad Young the Pinnacles & Sonora Pass guidebook author. I believe he’s climbed over a 1000 routes at Pinns & he’s still putting up numerous new routes there...
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d-know
Trad climber
electric lady land
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Hit up the guys at IME in slc.
A wealth of knowledge and ready
to share about the Wasatch region
and many more areas in Utah.
Rock warriors 4 real.
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Andy Genereux has established untold numbers of routes in the Cdn Rockies.
He has been a major force in the Ghost River area in particular, establishing many of the area classics including numerous multi pitch climbs.
What is unusual is that he has put up many pitches and climbs ground up drilling on lead using a solo self belay system. This includes pitches up to 5.11.
One story involves Andy drilling ground up (this time with a partner). He was drilling without hooks on a difficult pitch hanging onto a small flake for stability. The flake cut loose while halfway through the drilling. Andy was now hanging from the drill while it was turning back and forth, his finger still on the trigger. The gear sling was around his neck strangling him while he was trying to extricate himself from the situation.
He survived and came back to establish the pitch another day.
The name for the route? Hang em High ( it was on a cliff with a lot of Western/cowboy theme names).
Andy also acquired the name The Human Hilti after he rapped, cleaned, and drilled 28 bolts by hand in a single day before he acquired a power drill.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Oh, guidebook saga! Movie episode can be done in Hollywood stile like Western/thriller/ suspense about Yosemite Vally guidebooks. At one side Eric Gabel , Clint Cummings and Ed Hartouni and on another side Erik Sloan. All four are very interesting and very different characters. All dedicated to climbing but with very different view and perspective. They inherited old 1994/2005 manuscript from Don Reid, started working together and then split. Perfectionism and careful development vs. DoingAndDoing no big matter how but Fast. So far- there is no clear cut answer what way is better, and the crowd of supporters and mockers are split too. Another Oscar is possible
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
moving thru
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Are you looking for a particular age group or all ages?
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Ron Skelton , 78 years old , El Portal local. Every year Ron climbing or trying on his B-day his favorite route Crack -a- Go-Go. About ten years ago he had to skip some B-day climb, because he was fighting with cancer. He won. And climb this very hard route again and again. I know he made it last year on his 77 B-day. I do not know about 2019. I think his story fascinating
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=779637&tn=0&mr=0
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mikeyschaefer
climber
Sport-o-land
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2019 - 03:51pm PT
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Some solid ideas already!
I haven’t seen Skelton in a long time. Didn’t realize he is still climbing. That is great to hear!
We are looking for all ages, sexes, backgrounds and abilities. Just want people that have lived and breathed climbing. Ideally climbing has had a very positive affect on them.
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
Wilds of New Mexico
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I wonder if Julie De Jesus is still out there climbing? Awesome person, I think she learned how to climb on those 80s era manufactured routes under L.A. freeway overpasses, obviously pre-gym. A climber's climber, good at trad, bouldering and sport and just loved to climb. She was in some 90s era bouldering movies so maybe not totally an untold story. We lived in the same house in Flagstaff BITD.
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Hey Mikey tell Cheyne Scott Jett (Micronut) says hi.
I'd try to find some folks from the eastside who are local crushers. I know I'm always inspired by the stuff Amy Ness and Myles Moser (are they locals?) do over on the east side....and there have to be some quiet crushers who ski, climb and paddle all kinds of gnar while living quietly in the shadow of the big hills over there. Good luck and let us know as you unearth these characters. Sounds like a fun project.
Scott
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RURP_Belay
Big Wall climber
Bitter end of a bad anchor
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Andrew Burch, San Diego
"Coach" Jason Lakey, Bishop, CA
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ecdh
climber
the east
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Just a US thing or can the outside world join in?
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silverplume
Trad climber
Boulder
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He's of the older generation, but Rob (Robert) Kelman is about as obsessed with climbing as anyone I've ever met, and he's gotta be 88 or 89 now. He wrote *the* guide to Vedauwoo and is a freak for off-widths. There are legendary stories about his obsessiveness with climbing every route in a given grade in Vedauwoo before moving on to the next higher grade. I know he's still climbing in the front range region (he lives in Loveland), but I don't know how frequently these days. Up until a summer or two ago he was still getting after it several times per week, including becoming the oldest person to climb Devil's Tower.
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Mikey,
I'm 72 and have been climbing for 52 years. I taught in local high schools here in New England till I retired. I just started filling in for a teacher who will be absent for 3 months, and realize now just how difficult teaching in a public school is today, compared to 12 years ago, when I retired. I came home exhausted today.
A few years ago, I climbed a bit in the Valley with Rob Pizem, who just exuded enthusiasm. He really impressed me because he also was passionate about his chosen profession-teaching, and is really making a difference in kids life's. I think he is a great role model as a climber, and a human being.
https://www.climbing.com/people/the-life-of-rob-pizem-full-time-jobs-family-time-and-first-ascents/
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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What’s Bird Lew up to these days?
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
moving thru
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A few for the short list:
Bill Lundeen....been on the East Side forever, climbing as well as skiing. Bill kept Tioga Pass Resort alive for many seasons.
Pete Jones and Jess Francois, Lee Vining. Founders of new climbing areas, routes/first ascents and lots of input into the community. Jess, a good climber, has won the Tioga Pass run more than once, I think, and Pete's visited the Mono Lake Islands. They've done major exploration in the area as well as other places.
Unsung hero, at least to many, Mike Waugh, Tuolumne.
And I don't think anyone has done an in depth story on Mari Gingery or Mike Lechlinski. Researching for a book showed me these two did much no one knows about.
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