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mikeyschaefer
climber
Sport-o-land
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 7, 2019 - 12:30pm PT
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Hey all- I thought I’d throw this out to the supertopo community and see what happens.
Cheyne Lempe and I are developing a film project with Patagonia and we are searching for stories and characters. We’re looking for people to profile who have an unusual, unsung story behind their climbing. They didn’t learn to climb in a gym. Maybe they are from an unusual spot near one of the great crags (El Portal, CA; Slade, KY; Moab, UT; Clanwilliam, ZA; Vinales, Cuba, etc.. ). They don’t have to climb crazy hard but they need to be super dedicated and be intimate with their local crag. Ideally these climbers are engaged in their local community and are making a positive impact by being a local advocate or just a good ambassador. These people are the super locals of the crag or area and are probably fairly obsessed with climbing.
If anyone knows someone that roughly fits this description I’d love to be put in touch with them.
Feel free to email me at mikeylikesrocks at gmail if you have any questions or an idea.
Thanks!
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Trashman
Trad climber
SLC
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Karl and Kiefer(Sp?) Kelley in Moab
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jack Fieldhouse in Squamish.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Mikey, I think Dan McDevitt match your description. All live dedicated to climbing, last 30 years[ maybe more] in El Portal [ except of recent one] besides that he developed so many stellar routes in the Valley - the hole Fifi Buttress mainly developed by him and his friends. He is keeping low profile, modest, but still everyone know him and he knows everyone., so it will be some stories. I think you can make an interesting character of him in your movie
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Jim Clipper
climber
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todd gordon? may not fit the description entirely, but he seems to deserve some celluloid immortality, and he may be someone that the up and coming climbing community needs to hear about.
i'm sure that most everyone has a story about Rancho Gordon.
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hellroaring
Trad climber
San Francisco
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I nominate Brad Young the Pinnacles & Sonora Pass guidebook author. I believe he’s climbed over a 1000 routes at Pinns & he’s still putting up numerous new routes there...
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d-know
Trad climber
electric lady land
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Hit up the guys at IME in slc.
A wealth of knowledge and ready
to share about the Wasatch region
and many more areas in Utah.
Rock warriors 4 real.
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Andy Genereux has established untold numbers of routes in the Cdn Rockies.
He has been a major force in the Ghost River area in particular, establishing many of the area classics including numerous multi pitch climbs.
What is unusual is that he has put up many pitches and climbs ground up drilling on lead using a solo self belay system. This includes pitches up to 5.11.
One story involves Andy drilling ground up (this time with a partner). He was drilling without hooks on a difficult pitch hanging onto a small flake for stability. The flake cut loose while halfway through the drilling. Andy was now hanging from the drill while it was turning back and forth, his finger still on the trigger. The gear sling was around his neck strangling him while he was trying to extricate himself from the situation.
He survived and came back to establish the pitch another day.
The name for the route? Hang em High ( it was on a cliff with a lot of Western/cowboy theme names).
Andy also acquired the name The Human Hilti after he rapped, cleaned, and drilled 28 bolts by hand in a single day before he acquired a power drill.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Oh, guidebook saga! Movie episode can be done in Hollywood stile like Western/thriller/ suspense about Yosemite Vally guidebooks. At one side Eric Gabel , Clint Cummings and Ed Hartouni and on another side Erik Sloan. All four are very interesting and very different characters. All dedicated to climbing but with very different view and perspective. They inherited old 1994/2005 manuscript from Don Reid, started working together and then split. Perfectionism and careful development vs. DoingAndDoing no big matter how but Fast. So far- there is no clear cut answer what way is better, and the crowd of supporters and mockers are split too. Another Oscar is possible
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
moving thru
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Are you looking for a particular age group or all ages?
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Ron Skelton , 78 years old , El Portal local. Every year Ron climbing or trying on his B-day his favorite route Crack -a- Go-Go. About ten years ago he had to skip some B-day climb, because he was fighting with cancer. He won. And climb this very hard route again and again. I know he made it last year on his 77 B-day. I do not know about 2019. I think his story fascinating
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=779637&tn=0&mr=0
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mikeyschaefer
climber
Sport-o-land
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 7, 2019 - 03:51pm PT
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Some solid ideas already!
I haven’t seen Skelton in a long time. Didn’t realize he is still climbing. That is great to hear!
We are looking for all ages, sexes, backgrounds and abilities. Just want people that have lived and breathed climbing. Ideally climbing has had a very positive affect on them.
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
Wilds of New Mexico
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I wonder if Julie De Jesus is still out there climbing? Awesome person, I think she learned how to climb on those 80s era manufactured routes under L.A. freeway overpasses, obviously pre-gym. A climber's climber, good at trad, bouldering and sport and just loved to climb. She was in some 90s era bouldering movies so maybe not totally an untold story. We lived in the same house in Flagstaff BITD.
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Hey Mikey tell Cheyne Scott Jett (Micronut) says hi.
I'd try to find some folks from the eastside who are local crushers. I know I'm always inspired by the stuff Amy Ness and Myles Moser (are they locals?) do over on the east side....and there have to be some quiet crushers who ski, climb and paddle all kinds of gnar while living quietly in the shadow of the big hills over there. Good luck and let us know as you unearth these characters. Sounds like a fun project.
Scott
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RURP_Belay
Big Wall climber
Bitter end of a bad anchor
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Andrew Burch, San Diego
"Coach" Jason Lakey, Bishop, CA
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ecdh
climber
the east
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Just a US thing or can the outside world join in?
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silverplume
Trad climber
Boulder
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He's of the older generation, but Rob (Robert) Kelman is about as obsessed with climbing as anyone I've ever met, and he's gotta be 88 or 89 now. He wrote *the* guide to Vedauwoo and is a freak for off-widths. There are legendary stories about his obsessiveness with climbing every route in a given grade in Vedauwoo before moving on to the next higher grade. I know he's still climbing in the front range region (he lives in Loveland), but I don't know how frequently these days. Up until a summer or two ago he was still getting after it several times per week, including becoming the oldest person to climb Devil's Tower.
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Mikey,
I'm 72 and have been climbing for 52 years. I taught in local high schools here in New England till I retired. I just started filling in for a teacher who will be absent for 3 months, and realize now just how difficult teaching in a public school is today, compared to 12 years ago, when I retired. I came home exhausted today.
A few years ago, I climbed a bit in the Valley with Rob Pizem, who just exuded enthusiasm. He really impressed me because he also was passionate about his chosen profession-teaching, and is really making a difference in kids life's. I think he is a great role model as a climber, and a human being.
https://www.climbing.com/people/the-life-of-rob-pizem-full-time-jobs-family-time-and-first-ascents/
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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What’s Bird Lew up to these days?
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
moving thru
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A few for the short list:
Bill Lundeen....been on the East Side forever, climbing as well as skiing. Bill kept Tioga Pass Resort alive for many seasons.
Pete Jones and Jess Francois, Lee Vining. Founders of new climbing areas, routes/first ascents and lots of input into the community. Jess, a good climber, has won the Tioga Pass run more than once, I think, and Pete's visited the Mono Lake Islands. They've done major exploration in the area as well as other places.
Unsung hero, at least to many, Mike Waugh, Tuolumne.
And I don't think anyone has done an in depth story on Mari Gingery or Mike Lechlinski. Researching for a book showed me these two did much no one knows about.
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kunlun_shan
Mountain climber
SF, CA
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Bill Lundeen
I second that. Great climber, generous spirit!
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Herb Laeger
Todd Gordon
(Here@ Taco)
G_Gnome
John Kelly
Vitaly....
Tradmanclimbs: Nick Goldsmith,,,
especially Ice, Vermont(Lake Willoughby)
· Pomfret VT
2a) Kingtut = John Tuttle
&
1~a!)Clint Cummins
&
1.5a)Roger Brown
3a)Lord C'Mac,DoH!~Chris McNamara!,
https://web.stanford.edu/~clint/yos/longhf.htm
&:
Yeah Big waller
& mighty-mite= Mark Hudon(with a Max Jones cameo?)
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
moving thru
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kunlun_shan, yeah, Bill is off the charts.
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johntp
Trad climber
Punter
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It may be considered blasphemy on this forum, but Duane Raleigh and Mark Herndon (BASE104). Doods have some stories.
A taste: Duane was rapping a desert tower after a solo. It's been published before. For whatever reason his anchor failed (I think) and he was sailing down the wall. The rope go caught in a thin crack or hooked a horn, don't remember which.
Mark took a 100 foot skid on a slab at Quartz (also published before).
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julie de J
Boulder climber
Bishop,CA
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Hi Mikey. This is Julie de Jesus. My friend told me I was mentioned on supertopo. Although I'm still climbing (homeless, jobless and living in my RV parked in my friend's driveway, which sucks right about now btw) and just finished a round the world climbing trip, I can't deal with being in media on any level whatsoever. That being said, I nominate Jason Lakey from the Eastside who just forgoed his entire Patagonia objective to save the life of one of the Japanese Giri-Giri team. The story is really amazing and he is a true hero and inspiration to all of us on the Eastside.
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klaus
Big Wall climber
6th and Mission
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Mr. Way
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Capt.
climber
some eastside hovel
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Jason Lakey for sure. Solid individual and highly respected in many aspects aside from solely climbing. Total bad-ass nice guy.
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joe boy
Trad climber
california
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Mark Nicholas, Bay Area and Tahoe
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Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
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Burt Bronson!
Actually, We are looking for all ages, sexes, backgrounds and abilities. Just want people that have lived and breathed climbing. Ideally climbing has had a very positive affect on them.
IMHO you came to the right place.
I look forward to what you guys end up with. Sounds like a great storyline.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Roger Briggs tops everyone for the criteria, but I’m not sure who is going to pay to see a movie about him other than a few hundred of his friends. It sounds like a good idea for a 5 minute side story in a better movie.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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I would second Karl, Michelle and son Keifer Kelly in Moab. Truly awesome dedication and super positive contributions to IC and the Mosb area.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
moving thru
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Second that sketchy. First one to take me climbing after Dan passed into the heavenlies. Actually he's literally introduced hundreds, if not even thousands, to climbing in his lifetime! :)
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Levy
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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Mike Lechlinski & Mari Gingery
Erik Eriksson
Todd Gordon
Vitally
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steve s
Trad climber
eldo
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Swilliam Russell...".enough said.
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originalpmac
Mountain climber
Timbers of Fennario
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Logan Tyler in Ouray. Born and raised there, cranks the occasional 5.13, used to coach the Ridgway school climbing team and is currently opening an indoor bouldering wall I believe with the intention of starting a kids climbing camp. Also makes sweet downhill longboards and runs a kids skate camp. He is an all around great dude, a righteous brother and one of my best friends.
Cheers dude!
Pierce Adams
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Yeti
Trad climber
Ketchum, Idaho
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Reid Dowdle....Sawtooth
Brad shilling....City of Rocks
Joe Kelsey, of course.....Wind River Range
Pat Callis....Gallatin Canyon
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d-know
Trad climber
electric lady land
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Yeti, Brad is a good one.
Reminded me of
Carol Kotchek
and another one
Named Stan.
Can't remember his
last name.
Fun times though.
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Rollover
climber
Gross Vegas
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Stan Caldwell^^
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d-know
Trad climber
electric lady land
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Yes Rollover!
Thank you.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Dave Evans. Tucker Tech
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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Harpole
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10b4me
Social climber
Lida Junction
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Todd Gordon. An amazing and generous spirit who is still at it.
I agree
Note, I'm sorry to hear about Clint's medical problem.
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tornado
climber
lawrence kansas
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Tucker Tech and Todd Gordon
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Mar 10, 2019 - 12:42am PT
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Scott frye...at one time he had done more 5.13d/14as in different states than anybody. people are still trying to send his testpiece steep climb at donner and not many succeed.
Erik erikson . over 6o different el cap routes, way solid ice climber, and 8000 meter peaks without sponsorship.
eric kohl . possibly the best aid climber on the planet. he has done more solo fa's of big walls in the valley than all other climbers combined, probably. his list goes on and on and on.
Lonnie Kauk - has been crushing in the valley and tuolumne for years, brought 5.14 to the tioga crag, and many 5.13's there
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domngo
climber
Canada
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Mar 10, 2019 - 10:36am PT
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Maybe Mena @ Mogote Adventures fits the bill?
Recently back from Vinales and was fortunate to run into him and arrange for a day of climbing with my lady (her first day on real rock). Local cuban of the current generation putting in work around the country. They just wrapped up a climbing gathering in the Holguin region and development in cuba still seems to be proudly sprouting along.
Besides being a chill as f*#k human (see definition for cuban) he's aiming to start up a youth-based climbing adventure program in the area.
Bumped into him after sitting in the front patio on the main strip for dinner on our first night and slyly scanning the masses of tourons for salty rock rats - stuck out for sure! He was unbelievably stoked when I told him I had some climbing movies on a thumbdrive to pass along...I was pretty pleased to leave some of my rack/rope behind with him and save the checked baggage for good rum n cubanos ;)
Tell him I said beuno
Also some names that come to mind here on this continent:
Jon Rigg - squamish. crusty waller rat spreading love like a carebear
Kevin Mclane / Tony Mclane - Pops and young chops - can you say squamish?
Petey Zabrok - What a hoser......lol ;)
Dom
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Zclipper69
Trad climber
mill valley
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Mar 16, 2019 - 02:29am PT
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Not sure if said before, but Mike Massey of Index.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Mar 16, 2019 - 08:13am PT
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Jason Lakey for sure!
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Mar 16, 2019 - 08:28am PT
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Alden Pellet. one of the most amazeing and bold ice climbers you have never heard of and a bundle of energy, encouragement and inspiration for many of us here in the north east.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Mar 16, 2019 - 11:21am PT
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The best stories, cannot be told!
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Cogged
Social climber
Merced, Ca
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Mar 16, 2019 - 05:11pm PT
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+1 for Coach. Jason is a kind soul and I've learned a lot from him.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Sport climber
moving thru
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Mar 16, 2019 - 05:59pm PT
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mikeyschaefer, what are your parameters when you ask for "locals" stories?
After all the posts on this thread, are you expanding your story search area?
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Camster (Rhymes with Hamster)
Social climber
CO
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Mar 16, 2019 - 06:10pm PT
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Vitaliy M is not only an amazing climber, he's delving into the climbing ecosystem around him in many, many ways. Todd Gordon, for sure. Jeff Achey---his passion is as strong as ever.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Mar 16, 2019 - 11:48pm PT
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That cam burns guy.....
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 17, 2019 - 09:47am PT
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I don't do this stuff.
Plus I never was a climber to begin with.
I just did it for the exercise.
I'm just a st00pid smokin duck ......
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Scoop
Mountain climber
Truckee, CA
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Mar 18, 2019 - 09:10am PT
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Hansi Standtiener, Eric Perlman, Max Jones and Gary Allan on Donner Summit.
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Mar 18, 2019 - 10:35am PT
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Jerry & Sigrid Anderson
Long Time Sleepy SoYo Locals
Clint would be interesting too.
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bob
climber
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Mar 18, 2019 - 02:39pm PT
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Sean Kriletich. Whew, that dude......... great human being. Great climber. Totally unknown, but I think you know Mikey. Pacific Ocean Wall solo when he was a teen just as an example.
He’s done so much for people outside of climbing.
Also, Jake Whittaker.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Mar 18, 2019 - 03:07pm PT
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Gordo and Tucker, Robert Fonda if Hildi is ok with it.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
Nothing creative to say
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Clint Cummins
Brad Young
Ron Skelton
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