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Luke.d6
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 17, 2019 - 12:48pm PT
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Hey!
I am looking to do the Lotus Flower Tower this coming August. I was wondering if anyone has any topos of the route (Even just photos with the approximate route drawn in)? Especially any photos with the approximate locations of the rappel anchors when descending from the bivy ledge!
Thanks for your help!
-Luke
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Jan 17, 2019 - 12:53pm PT
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That's always been high near the top of my dream tick list.
Looking forward to seeing more beta on this one.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jan 17, 2019 - 01:04pm PT
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Uh, if you have concerns about routefinding then you better not leave the gym! 😉
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ClimbingOn
Trad climber
NY
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Jan 17, 2019 - 01:33pm PT
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What’s your email address? I can help out. The PM function on ST does not work.
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Eric Harvey
Big Wall climber
Eugene
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Jan 17, 2019 - 01:41pm PT
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Funny story:
After floating and then hiking into the Vampire spires we wrapped up the trip by hiking into climb the Lotus Flower tower. Fortunately we did not have any maps. So we hiked up to the cirque and went into one valley in the cirque shy of the correct one. Then we tried to make what we were seeing fit what we thought the tower looked like (obviously nothing matched)
We proceeded to pick out a line and climb. Lo and behold, at the top of pitch 12, or something, we crested a ridge and were able to see the Lotus flower tower. Ended up finishing the 20 some pitch route, sleeping on top of the tower and then rapping down the next day. Far better fun than having climbed the lotus flower tower.
This was neither the first nor the last adventure I have had due to lack of maps. Maps are over rated.
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johntp
Trad climber
Little Rock and Loving It
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Jan 17, 2019 - 03:10pm PT
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Dood, just do a google it and you will get all the info you need.
A beautiful route I've always wanted to get to.
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norm larson
climber
wilson, wyoming
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Jan 17, 2019 - 03:15pm PT
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It’s a fun climb. The first few pitches are tricky, the next section in the chimney is easy and not that fun, the ledge is a five star bivy and should not be missed, the upper Headwall is worth the trip. It’ll make you smile. The descent is pretty straight forward rapping. From the ledge head off skiers left. Hope you get the weather. Year we did it most did not get a chance to get on it because of endless rain. Just do it and then post a trip report for all these curmudgeons here.
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anita514
Gym climber
Great White North
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Jan 17, 2019 - 04:21pm PT
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hey Reilly, kingtut and johntp - do you guys have any real info to give, any real expertise to share, or just more of the same #irrelevant shitposting just to let people know you're still around?
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jan 17, 2019 - 04:36pm PT
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anita, if you had any reading comprehension you would see the advice in our comments.
Beside, if yer that thin skinned that rock will really eat you up.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Jan 17, 2019 - 05:04pm PT
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You go anita514. Keep it real up in here.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Jan 17, 2019 - 08:06pm PT
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#irrelevant shitposting just to let people know you're still around?
trademark of above posters. political sh#t-show is not enough but make climbing treads boring
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jan 17, 2019 - 08:20pm PT
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Luke, hope you have good rain gear,..
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Bargainhunter
climber
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Jan 17, 2019 - 09:17pm PT
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The route is straightforward. I'm sure there is more updated info., but 50 Classics has the pic and all the description that you need. It was adequate for us 25 years ago (we didn't have a topo). Routefinding is not a problem at all. Just walk to the base and start. We reached the big flat ledge halfway up as a storm broke and shivered through the night in bivy sacks. The real climbing started on the 2nd half and was above us, but in the AM we got the snail eye and bailed and still got massively hammered by rain on the raps (bolted anchors the whole way down). Our ropes got stuck on half of the 11 or so raps from the ledge requiring some creative re-climbing and penjis on slick rock to free the ropes (stuck on sticky flakes). Dying of hypothermia was a real possibility, so don't underestimate getting soaked. The Italian group leaving when we arrived in Fairy Meadow stated that they had 3 weeks of continuous rain.
You don't have to fly in. We were on a tight budget so we approached by foot and inflatable kayak. We parked our car at the Canol road at the Yukon border and traveled over rivers (South MacMillan, etc) and across the Moose Ponds to the headwaters of the South Nahanni, then descended it all the way to Nahanni Butte. We carried all of our supplies and had no radio nor resupply. We explored other tributaries for climbing potential including up the Broken Skull River to the Backbone Range. Our trip up to the Cirque from the S. Nahanni was a tame weekend side trip compared to the rest of our 2 months out. Getting back to my car involved something like 1300+ miles of hitchhiking. It was a fun summer trip for my college roommate and I, inspired after reading R.M Patterson's "Dangerous River".
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Bargainhunter
climber
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Jan 17, 2019 - 09:22pm PT
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Despite all the criticism here, Kingtut's beta of starting at the bottom and climbing to the top is spot on.
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spectreman
Trad climber
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Jan 18, 2019 - 06:57am PT
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The route is straightforward. I'm sure there is more updated info., but 50 Classics has the pic and all the description that you need. It was adequate for us 25 years ago (we didn't have a topo). Routefinding is not a problem at all. Just walk to the base and start. We reached the big flat ledge halfway up as a storm broke and shivered through the night in bivy sacks. The real climbing started on the 2nd half and was above us, but in the AM we got the snail eye and bailed and still got massively hammered by rain on the raps (bolted anchors the whole way down). Our ropes got stuck on half of the 11 or so raps from the ledge requiring some creative re-climbing and penjis on slick rock to free the ropes (stuck on sticky flakes). Dying of hypothermia was a real possibility, so don't underestimate getting soaked. The Italian group leaving when we arrived in Fairy Meadow stated that they had 3 weeks of continuous rain.
You don't have to fly in. We were on a tight budget so we approached by foot and inflatable kayak. We parked our car at the Canol road at the Yukon border and traveled over rivers (South MacMillan, etc) and across the Moose Ponds to the headwaters of the South Nahanni, then descended it all the way to Nahanni Butte. We carried all of our supplies and had no radio nor resupply. We explored other tributaries for climbing potential including up the Broken Skull River to the Backbone Range. Our trip up to the Cirque from the S. Nahanni was a tame weekend side trip compared to the rest of our 2 months out. Getting back to my car involved something like 1300+ miles of hitchhiking. It was a fun summer trip for my college roommate and I, inspired after reading R.M Patterson's "Dangerous River".
Wow! F'ing rad
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Jan 18, 2019 - 12:26pm PT
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Yea, start at the bottom and it ends at the top. Pretty sure that's the beta for that rig. Just trying to get the guy to JUST DOOO EET AND USE THE FORCE, LUKE.
Its not some frickin' obscure rig with hella route finding. Its like one damn crack the whole way. If he gets his feels all hurt or needs more beta than that he'll never send it. (Its about the mindset too).
some posters even not consistent with what they propose to others
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=2859875&tn=0&mr=0
i think it is very simple and undestandabe desire to talk about routes you dreaming of with climbers on climbing forum and getting route beta is part of it. The sad thing is, that sh#t-posters ruining this conversation, making everyone who want to talk about climbing feel uncomfortable.
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originalpmac
Mountain climber
Timbers of Fennario
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Jan 18, 2019 - 12:49pm PT
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^^^^ ha! Great link, hilarious.
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