The Jewel in the Lotus Jim McCarthy Ascent 1969

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Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 25, 2014 - 09:54pm PT
As we have the estimable Jim McCarthy around at present, his account of the first ascent of the fifty classic Lotus Flower Tower with Tom Frost and Sandy Bill as it appeared in the 1969 Ascent magazine.





This is one of my favorite accounts of a great rock climb and Sandy Bill wrote another contender.

More to follow.
nature

climber
Boulder, CO
Jul 26, 2014 - 06:54am PT
more bump...

If I had it to do all over again I would have spent a month in the Cirque instead of the Vamps.
kaholatingtong

Trad climber
Nevada City
Jul 26, 2014 - 09:28am PT
mmm, wishing a climb will never end, hehe, know the feeling. thanks for sharing.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Jul 26, 2014 - 09:58am PT
Wow wow wow!!



What an awesome story, thanks Steve!
Welcome to supertopo Mr McCarthy!!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 26, 2014 - 10:15am PT
If this article has you stoked then you would certainly enjoy reading the rest of the 1969 Ascent compliments of Tarbuster Roy, who bids you rejoice!

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=850918&msg=863685#msg863685
Peter Haan

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
Jul 26, 2014 - 11:54am PT
Now that this amazing route is free, I understand the new challenge is standing on your toes all day on nubbins for a thousand feet. (per Tom Davis).
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 26, 2014 - 12:17pm PT
That and finding the crux section dry apparently...

Interesting cracks that flare to the inside unlike most according to Tom Frost. Mighty cold up there in the winter.
jstan

climber
Jul 26, 2014 - 01:13pm PT
As Jim told it when he got back to the Gunks, "It was nice. There was only one damn roof on the route."
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2017 - 07:29pm PT
McCarthy Bump...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 17, 2019 - 06:29pm PT
Anita Bump...
norm larson

climber
wilson, wyoming
Jan 18, 2019 - 07:36am PT
We brought Jim a small piece of rock from the summit and gave it to him after our ascent of this route. Wonder if he hung on to it?
EdwardT

Trad climber
Retired
Jan 18, 2019 - 07:50am PT
Looking for Cirque pics, I came across this trip report. Mostly non-climbing. Still a good adventure.

https://rab.equipment/eu/basecamp/on-the-hill/jacob-cook-the-cirque-of-the-unclimbables/
Messages 1 - 12 of total 12 in this topic
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