A special post just for the Warbler: Hazel Findlay FA

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Matt's

climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 8, 2017 - 11:33am PT
Hazel Findlay makes first ascent of Tainted Love, 5.13D R, Squamish.

A quote that should be of special interest to the Warbler, since its consistent with all of his notions of gender:

"Speaking to Hazel and Neil Dyer, the proposed grade is 5.13d R. Sounds spicy! To fill in a little history on the route, Squamish-local Neil Dyer originally top roped the route in 2015 but couldn’t find the headspace to lead the rig. According to Neil, leading the route is a real challenge with all the small gear and requires the climber to run it out to save energy and stick to the sequence. He reported that Hazel made a proper fight in the conditions it was sent and showed true tenacity in her head game. Neil reported it was one of the most difficult belays he had given and his legs were shaking at the end of it all."

http://squamishclimbingmagazine.ca/recent-news-hazel-findlay-makes-first-ascent-covetted-tainted-love-5-13/

Credit: Matt's
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Aug 8, 2017 - 11:37am PT

I did it! Whoop. So desperately... In the heat and the smoke. This route has the ability to completely wipe your memory of beta (since there are almost no holds and only one obvious feature). I feel like it was a team ascent with Neil Dyer inspiring me to go up there and belying me a tonne. We called it 'Tainted Love aka Northern Soul' after the song and the feeling of loving something like climbing but also kind of hating it sometimes (when your legs are burning and you feet hate you and you've forgotten whether to stem or to bridge.) I'd say it's 5.13d R placing the gear, 8b, or E8 6c. It's all on gear and placing the gear is definitely cruxy (tiny wires). I really hope someone repeats this thing because the climbing is crazy cool and I feel like this kind of technical but powerful climbing is a dying art.
Jon Beck

Trad climber
Oceanside
Aug 8, 2017 - 11:39am PT
But can she find the descent trail without supplemental testosterone?
Matt's

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2017 - 11:50am PT
No Jon, she is still lost on top of the chief...she's waiting for the warbler to rescue her
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Aug 8, 2017 - 11:59am PT
Thanks for thinking of me, I'm glad my efforts to debunk third wave feminism and the associated gender denial are not going unnoticed.

Bother me when women start consistently doing stuff harder than the top men, that's the crux.

I know women can climb hard, almost as hard as men

BIG almost

I wonder if she toproped it extensively first, got the detailed beta from Neil on the moves and all the gear placements?

Nah...

It's a trad route!

Still behind cutting edge male accomplishments, but impressive!
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Aug 8, 2017 - 12:04pm PT
Yes, I would think the word "art" applies to a climb like that. Placing widely spaced, tiny stoppers while negotiatng extreme terrain is a fair step up from gunning to the next pre-hung quick draw a body length away. It goes boys!
Naitch

climber
Blue Ridge Mts, Shenandoah River
Aug 8, 2017 - 12:09pm PT
Hats off to Hazel!
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Aug 8, 2017 - 12:23pm PT
I wonder if dainty girl fingers are an advantage on that route too....?

😀😆✌️
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Aug 8, 2017 - 12:24pm PT
Fuc%in A ..... 13D R

Climbers are doing the most amazing things today.

Hats off.

Respect
moosedrool

climber
Andrzej Citkowicz far away from Poland
Aug 8, 2017 - 12:30pm PT
Yep, women are almost equal to humans.

And humans are almost equal to moose.

Carry on.

Moose
Matt's

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2017 - 12:41pm PT
So, Warbler, to summarize:

1) its not a trad climb because she top-roped it first, probably
2) she stole all the beta from the dude Neil, probably.
3) no one else could do the pure stemming route because they didn't have small girl fingers like her
4) 13D R is not cutting edge anyways

Am I missing anything?
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Aug 8, 2017 - 12:42pm PT


i'm gumby dammit

Sport climber
da ow
Aug 8, 2017 - 12:54pm PT
So, Warbler, to summarize:

1) its not a trad climb because she top-roped it first, probably
2) she stole all the beta from the dude Neil, probably.
3) no one else could do the pure stemming route because they didn't have small girl fingers like her
4) 13D R is not cutting edge anyways
You forgot
5. In order for women to climb as hard as men they must consistently climb harder than men.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Aug 8, 2017 - 01:04pm PT
Lol!

This is getting good fast!

My comment about trad climbing went over your head, Matt, the term trad is one of my pet peeves. I'm guessing you haven't been climbing for fifty years, like I have, so your concept of "traditional" climbing is different than mine, whatever,

If the pitch is all stemming, more power to her. I've stemmed a few corners, and sometimes I use the crack too. The dainty fingers comment was mostly a troll to rile the heforshes and their feminist heroes, er, heroines.

Which is it these days Matt? I'm sure the distinction has been debated in gender studies

I'm a little behind the times where that's concerned...

Didn't say it wasn't cutting edge, just behind male climbers' hardest sends.

That don't matter to me until feminist climbers claim women climb as hard as men across the board, and the only reason that bothers me is because it's bs, and I don't like bs where climbing is concerned. There's enough BS in day to day life, climbing has always been an escape from that.

To me, anyway

As far as women doing stuff "consistently harder" goes, my point is that fluke Ascents by women of things the top men have been unable to do are not proof the genders are equal in cutting edge climbing situations. There's nearly always a climber who can climb a particular route that no one else can - that's where the true edge of the cutting edge lies.

Again, I don't really give a rat's ass about who's climbing what at that level. But for women to claim equality in that airy realm of climbing, they have to outclimb men on 50% of cutting edge routes, if you wanna get technical about it. That would balance out to truly equal performance.

Maybe it'll happen someday. I doubt I'll see it.
Matt's

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2017 - 01:27pm PT
My comment about trad climbing went over your head, Matt, the term trad is one of my pet peeves. I'm guessing you haven't been climbing for fifty years, like I have, so your concept of "traditional" climbing is different than mine, whatever,

the different definitions of "trad" are irrelevant. I was simply pointing out that one of the many ways you trivialized this climb was by assuming that she top roped it first.


Which is it these days Matt? I'm sure the distinction has been debated in gender studies

Not sure what question you're asking me-- what does the "it" refer to?
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Aug 8, 2017 - 01:42pm PT
Is "IT" PC to call a female a heroine instead of a hero, since we're all equal an sh#t?

She said he belayed her "a tonne".

Maybe she didn't toprope it, or hang, or preplace gear on aid while she was working it, or yoyo it, or preview it on rappel.

Y'know, traditional style!
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Social climber
SLO, Ca
Aug 8, 2017 - 01:48pm PT
Awesome looking route! I went through a period of leading hardish (5.11/ easy .12) stem box climbs at Paradise Forks- lots of small gear, powerful stemming- physically and mentally challenging for sure. I can't imagine cranking that up to 5.13d R. Impressive!
Matt's

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2017 - 01:55pm PT
Is "IT" PC to call a female a heroine

She said he belayed her "a tonne".

Maybe she didn't toprope it, or hang, or preplace gear while she was working it, or yoyo it, or preview it on rappel.

Y'know, traditional style!

She never claimed to do it in "traditional" style. She (and her partner) just said it was the first no-falls lead of the route. Judging from the instagram picture, it doesn't look like the gear was pre-placed, but who knows.
i-b-goB

Social climber
Wise Acres
Aug 8, 2017 - 01:59pm PT
Maybe she didn't toprope it, or hang, or preplace gear while she was working it, or yoyo it, or preview it on rappel.

Y'know, traditional style!

...ie. un-Tainted!

Either way hella gem stem!
Oplopanax

Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
Aug 8, 2017 - 02:13pm PT
"traditional" refers to dudes with short-shorts with their nutsack hanging out and tight shirts doing runout hand drill 5.11 in California. way homo.
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