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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 23, 2006 - 02:18pm PT
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Mimi and I were having a nice converstation about Stan in another thread. Problem is, we commited a thread hijacking of LEB-proportions.
In the Snell's Field thread I asked if they had any photo's.
Mimi responded:
Sorry, my old boyfriend has all of my Europe slides. If you're in Flag, you prolly know him, Stan Mish. Give him my best would ya? Now that I've got some dough, I need to get those things copied
My response:
Yup, I certainly do know Stan. Next time I see him around I'll say hello for you. Funny thing is, I see him boating more than climbing.
Mimi's response:
Stan got into hang-gliding and owns a few records I think. He injured his shoulder boating and I think that affected his climbing so he stuck to boating. Plus, climbing's hard and scary, so he's prolly having way more fun boating.
My response:
I didn't know about the hang gliding. I met Stan years ago when he owned the climbing gym. I'd run into him out at Winslow Wall - he'd be in his kayak must toolin' around. He put up a few climbs out there. One starts off a crack climb then busts into .10 face on crispie edges. He put in one bolt on the climb which was mostly useless due to the old-skool Bandito's aluminum hanger (with No Gud) stamped on it. He couldn't remember what he called it (if he did) so we came up with a name for the route - Stan's the Man.
He use to give us a hard time: "This place use to be a worthy trad climbing area until it went to the dogs (us)". He was mostly kidding and really appreciates the time/energy we put in out there.
The canyon at Winslow Wall floods every once and a while. I blame the drugs/booze as somewhere along the way I agreed to boat the entire stretch of east clear creek from the Blue Ridge Rez on down with him the next time it floods.
Maybe it's time for a Stan Mish appreciation thread. BVB probably has a story or two he could share...
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BVB: bust out some photo's and stories.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Dec 23, 2006 - 02:36pm PT
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Not my own, Mish photo from the original Phoenix Rock guide.
Classic Banditos shot by Dan Langmade, though.
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Mimi
climber
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Dec 23, 2006 - 02:40pm PT
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Ha! I have a color print of this pic but it's buried. That about sums up Stan Mish. What a character. A true desert rat.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Dec 23, 2006 - 03:08pm PT
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I have climbed a number of the Bandito routes;.....those boys got down to the business end of the stick. Stan and his friends did some of the best and most unusual climbs on the planet, in the most bizarre and wonderful settings on earth. Pain and simple;...The Banditos RULE!
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2006 - 03:25pm PT
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were the routes sporting a few of these little gems?
The one on the right has "No Gud" stamped on it. I swapped out this hanger for a "real" hanger on Stan's The Man.
The others are stamped "Bandito" and came from a collection of stuff Deuce sent me.
Yo! Deuce, tell us some Bandito stories!
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Dec 23, 2006 - 03:50pm PT
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ALL the Bandito routes have them hangers. I have two of those bolt hangers....one fell out when I climbed Mexican Hat, and the other I found at the base of a Bandito climb;....one I placed on a climb in Joshua Tree for a treat when one does the climb.........the hangers are happening, arent' they?
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Dec 23, 2006 - 04:15pm PT
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Carob Corner and Ethnic cleanser on disappointment cliffs, Indian creek each sport a bandito hanger in their respective anchor mix.
You'll have to look for the plaques since the last guidebook author apparently didn't walk the cliff.
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Mimi
climber
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Dec 23, 2006 - 04:26pm PT
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Another saying on the strap hangers was Bad Bolt. That was always sure to get climber's attention!
Weren't the original Banditos Stan, Dan Langmade, LB (Glen Rink), Dave Hodson, and Dave Black? I'm sure there are others that gained acceptance to the clan over the years. Owning at least one Harley was strongly encouraged. You also had to climb something illegal to be an official member. I still have my old homemade pile jacket Stan made me with the Bandito logo on it.
I remember climbing with Dan on an FA of one of the various pinnacles in the Superstitions when he placed an Easy Rider or somesuch mag on the summit for laughs.
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nature
climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2006 - 04:33pm PT
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I really have no idea on the history of the Banditos. I just figure since Deuce was around at that time he'd have a few good stories. Maybe John was too much of an upstanding citizen to get in the "club".
Hey Jaybro, are you saying that The Doctor (Bloom) left those routes out of the latest IC guide? It's possible he didn't walk that section. I would be a bit suprised if that is the case (but in looking at the guide it does appear that way). Any chance they are one of those "unknown" climbs listed for that cliff? Dave is one of my main climbing partners - he put in a ridiculous amount of time into compiling his info.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Dec 23, 2006 - 04:37pm PT
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I think we left a 'bad bolt'and a 'no gud' on those IC climbs. Two watered down bandito wannbes; Quinlan and myself, but steve Had been entrusted with the hangers.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Dec 23, 2006 - 04:45pm PT
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nanachro, No I talked with him about that (in a drunken stupor @ the last PBC, so I Know, I got all that facts straight, haha) those aren't the "unknowns" and he didn't know about them, or 'The Rainbow Sign' in Donelly, for that matter.
I like his book, but it's weird that Indian Creek has so far eluded the kind of comprehensive guide that other places have gotten,(entire areas visible from the road are missing) not that that's entirely a bad thing.
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Flex
Trad climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Dec 23, 2006 - 06:06pm PT
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Stans is THE man. For those of us in Flag he is an awesome resource. I can always count on him for some beta to some obscure spot no-one has visited in ages. I'm always amazed by the stories that float around about him & The Banditos in general. The one about them in the Black Canyon in a recent Climbing mag story was classic!
Nature - I think I was there at the Winslow Wall for the FA of "Stans the Man"-June or July 2000? Gloria belayed and followed. I remember as it was my 1st time there and I got poison ivy all over!
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Dec 23, 2006 - 07:37pm PT
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I could be thinking of something else, but wasn't that like Baillie, Karlstrom, Lovejoy and Baxter in the Black Canyon article (Dragon Route)? That's the Granitica Syndatico boys if so, not Banditos.
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Flex
Trad climber
Flagstaff, AZ
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Dec 24, 2006 - 10:08pm PT
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steelmnky-the mag article had a big piece on the FA of the Dragon Route by the Syndicato, but it also had a side piece about the Banditos nearly nabbing the FFA of Staratosfear. It was a great piece involving dropped gear, raw potatoes for bivy food, delusions, etc..a good read for all.
I wish more of those Bandito hangers were still around, they've been disappearing like glaciers. I had an experience(!) with one on my very first trad lead-Queen Victoria Spire in Sedona. I reached the 1st pitch belay to see a nasty 1/4-incher bent & protruding out of the rock, and next to it was a Bandito hanger with NO GUD stamped on it. I was at loss, so I placed a hex, wedged my body as best I could and told my partner he was ON BELAY!
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deuce4
Big Wall climber
the Southwest
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Dec 26, 2006 - 10:36am PT
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I think I became a "honorary" Banditio, due to climbing a bunch of FA's with Dan Langmade, who of course was a full-fledged Bandito. Hence, the first ascents in the desert I climbed with Dan became official "Bandito" ascents.
One story I remember is when Dan, Carl Tobin and I were climbing the FA of the Stagecoach. Dan led the first pitch, I followed, then Carl last. Of course, Carl's main responsibility was to carry up the semi-pornographic "Easy Rider" magazine as an offering to the summit. He "forgot" the mag, and because of it, missed out on his chance to become an honorary member.
Dan once told me that the inspiration for their motorcyles was from seeing me and my BMW in Yosemite in 1984, but I think he had remembered the past differently than other Banditios, or maybe it was just chummy conversation after a memorable banditio ascent.
Flying over Monument Valley with Dan and Bill Hatcher once in Dan's little Cessna was a spectacular experience. The weather was rough, and after we landed, he told Bill and I that at times he wasn't sure if we were going to make it.
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Dec 28, 2006 - 03:10pm PT
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My first bandito route was Shangra-la. A copy of "Easy Rider" on top, the "No Gud" bolts and the whole bit. Classic. Stan is always so positive. I remember running into him at the hardware store once when I had a bunch of bolts in my hand. Me and Crater Dave were working on a new route on the south side of the Mushroom and I was buying bolts for anchors and such. Stan and John M. did the FA of the original route so I was psyched to run into him. He said "that's the big side- rad!" and wished us luck. I took it as a good omen. I ran into an old in friend in Flag recently and she told me he is surfing these days. Awesome!
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deuce4
Big Wall climber
the Southwest
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Dec 28, 2006 - 04:49pm PT
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ah, yes, the Mushroom. That was a terrifying ascent with Stan. When we were on that baby, we got caught in a wicked lightning storm on the last pitch. Horrendous. Lightning was hitting the summit, and we were just below it. Went on for nearly an hour. I was leading at the time, so I clipped both aiders together and hung the rack as far below me as possible.
That was a fun one with Stan the Man (after it was all over, of course).
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Dec 28, 2006 - 09:13pm PT
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yep, stan's spry for his age and still gets out and about. here he is spotting ace photog merock on a bitchin' prob at the draw. i beleive stan hucked a lap or two on it directly afterwards.
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Mimi
climber
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Found these prints from the old slides. Pardon me for not recalling the names of the climb nor the crag but surely someone will recognize it; gritstone somewhere in England. I stuffed myself in the very back of this v-shaped formation to take the pics. You can see the wild stem Stan's pulling to get started. Stan really enjoyed this one.
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John Cox
Trad climber
London, England
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Mar 14, 2007 - 02:41pm PT
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That would be Fern Hill, E2 5c, Cratcliffe Edge,
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