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Mimi
climber
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Mar 14, 2007 - 03:20pm PT
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"That would be Fern Hill, E2 5c, Cratcliffe Tor."
Yes Cratcliffe Tor! What a beautiful place. I knew someone would recognize that climb. Thanks Mr. Cox.
Cheers,
Mimi
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Raydog
Trad climber
Boulder
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Mar 14, 2007 - 06:09pm PT
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I know Stan!
I rode w/ him from the valley to the Tetons in like '77, pretty sure it was '77. He'd done a fairly fast ascent of the Nose as I recall and freed some impressive stuff up there. I remember him
telling Tom Kimbrough and I about it.
I think he was guiding in the Tetons back then.
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Nohea
Trad climber
Aiea,Hi
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Mar 17, 2007 - 05:47am PT
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A hell of a Guy!
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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I met Stan at Granite mountain in the late 70s. He walked right up to us Coloradans with his toothy aw shucks grin and simply said "Howdy". We hit it off and did some wonderful climbing together like the second ascent of Cinnamon Girl at Granite Mountain. Last time I saw him, years ago, he was sporting a surprising beer belly. He fondly referred to it as Billy Ballast. Said it kept him from floating away. He could still crank like a fiend though. No surprise that after climbing and kayaking he turned to surfing. Stan the Man has mad skills.
Edit to correct. I meant King Pin not Cinnamon Girl.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Nov 18, 2017 - 05:46pm PT
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I did talk to Bloom at length about those routes a tone of the ic sushi feasts and those routes are, all in the book now.
More Bandito stories!
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Happy Cowboy
Social climber
Boz MT
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Nov 18, 2017 - 06:35pm PT
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
Wilds of New Mexico
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Nov 18, 2017 - 07:31pm PT
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Well I opened this thread and see that I already posted up- in 2006! I stand by my original statement! I first met Stan in like 1988. I offered to help my outdoor adventure class teacher at NAU with the rock climbing segment of our class and ended up meeting Stan, who had been hired to teach our group. I met him out at Mt. Elden and helped set up top ropes. We bouldered and talked some before the class arrived and Stan invited me to Alpine Pizza the following Thursday night. Alpine was a major climber and mountain biker hang and Thursdays were the big night.
So the following Thursday I rode my bike from my dorm over to Alpine and used my fake I.d. to buy some beer. I sat at the table of climbers and basically had my life changed- total free spirits telling stories of Zion walls, El Cap epics, Sedona horror shows and hard Paradise Forks climbing. I had been scratching around top roping and terrifying myself leading with hexes and tri-cams with whoever I could find in my dorm that had a car and some willingness to go out. It was so inspiring to get a window into the bigger climbing world.
During that first night at Alpine I heard Stan playfully chide the other climbers that the Mushroom hadn’t seen a second ascent. I mentally filed that away, worked my way through N. AZ climbing and did the likely second ascent. One of the last things I did before moving on from Flagstaff was a new route on the Mushroom (which I referred to in my other post on this thread).
So anyway, Stan I’m sure wouldn’t remember any of this but he was a major influence on me.
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Happy Cowboy
Social climber
Boz MT
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Nov 19, 2017 - 04:31am PT
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Stan juggling near Island Lake
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