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Scouz
Sport climber
QC
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 16, 2016 - 12:46am PT
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Hi, I'm Seb and going to Cali for work, my climbing partner Ben and I have the 25th of Oct 2016 off and we want to climb Cathedral Peak. we have no trad and multi pitch experience but really want to do this climb. I love climbing, I have the gear it takes but lack experience. I sport climb and top rope single pitch only... Suggestions ? Is there partner programs or guides ? Thank you :) Seb
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Yinzer
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Oct 16, 2016 - 02:42am PT
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Scouz
It's going to be a long drive wether you are coming from SF or Los Angeles. It is also possible that the access road (hwy 120) could be closed for weather / just general laziness and 'season' being over.
check out this link for most info: https://www.mountainproject.com/v/cathedral-peak/105835696
my wife and I loved the climb, it was our first longer trad climb. I saw photos from friends there recently (last week) and I think the highs were around 32 (f) ... If you get the chance for a late-season send... dress warm.
<3
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Reeotch
climber
4 Corners Area
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Oct 16, 2016 - 04:35am PT
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Oh Yeah!
Yer Gonna Die!
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Oct 16, 2016 - 04:35am PT
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Scouz, a bit late in the season, but then I live in Ireland now and so I do not know what the conditions will be like. Highway 120 may be closed if it starts snowing. If you go, be prepared for poor conditions that may develop while you hike in/out or on the climb.
Otherwise, it is a great climb, for any level of climber. There are several (if not more) ways up the Southeast Buttress, so if you go off route, you probably won't be as such. The summit offers astounding views. If the weather is good and you have the time Eichorn Pinnacle (North Face 5.4 1 pitch, West Face 5.9 5 pitches) is well worth it, it is just a few hundred feet from Cathedral. It is a gas, both routes.
The hike in from 120 is not bad. I used to run it a lot and then climb the SE Buttress/Face.
But again, beware the weather.
EDIT
we have no trad and multi pitch experience
When I write "for any level of climber", perhaps this may not be the first multi-pitch trad route you want to climb, especially considering that the conditions may not be ideal. Do you have much outdoor/mountain experience? If a storm moves in or it starts snowing, you may have difficulty getting out of the Meadows if they close 120.
In years past, before the drought, late October was usually around the time that Highway 120 closes. First snows/storms and such.
If you get to Yosemite and conditions do not seem ideal or safe, consider the Valley, loads of good first time multi-pitch climbs there to get experience on. Cathedral Peak will always be there for later times.
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Oct 16, 2016 - 06:39am PT
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Late Oct. can be wonderful, but it all just depends on the season. We've been getting a few storms but not super heavy. Sonora Pass was closed when I drove up to Bishop this last Thursday, although it has probably been reopened. Fresh snow is on the highest peaks. If conditions are good, I'd go for it.
But get a guide! Yosemite and Bishop both have world class guiding services. Hell, you could even get Peter Croft from here in Bishop if he isn't booked. It would be like getting a private golfing lesson from Tiger Woods only Croft is a really nice guy and doesn't cheat on his wife with Perkin's waitresses!
Seriously, employ a guide.
BAd
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Oct 16, 2016 - 06:41am PT
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Tioga Road (Highway 120 through the park)
Call 209/372-0200 (then 1, 1) to check on the status of Tioga Road, which may close due to snow this weekend.
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Stewart Johnson
Mountain climber
lake forest
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Oct 16, 2016 - 06:44am PT
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please don't climb here anymore
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10b4me
Mountain climber
Retired
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Oct 16, 2016 - 08:16am PT
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My recommendation would be to improve your skills. Learn to build anchors, and do easier fifth class climbs. Also, learn rope management.
October is great because there aren't many people on the route, but weather can shut you down.
Bottom line is that the peak will always be there. Come back when you have the experience.
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couchmaster
climber
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Oct 16, 2016 - 08:16am PT
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Hiring a guide is a great idea. You don't say what level you climb at, but having a solid anchor which you built yourself which will not fail under any conditions is a prerequisite for safe climbing. Being able to built if fast is a bonus. In the event you are up there and the weather changes so you must bail, a guide will get you back down alive. Furthermore, tell the guide you were looking to learn those skills and a good one will take some time you further your education on that so that you have a fun and productive day.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
Boise, ID
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Oct 16, 2016 - 10:41am PT
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It's an easy route, but people have died on it.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Oct 16, 2016 - 10:58am PT
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Also, the class 3/4 north face descent route might be sketchy this time of year.
A guide would help your skillz immensely.
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Oct 16, 2016 - 11:15am PT
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I agree with the suggestions that, if you are determined to climb it and the conditions are ideal or at least okay, somebody who knows the route and the descent would be will worth your time if you are inexperienced.
And because it is easy to get off route and onto more difficult terrain, you'd want to be experienced in that. It sounds like you aren't. I'd go with a guide or head to the Valley for some easier multi-pitch routes to hone your skills and experience.
Cathedral Peak ain't go nowhere.
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chainsaw
Trad climber
CA
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Oct 16, 2016 - 11:34am PT
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Easy routes often have plentiful "bad" protection. Many loose flakes and blocks make easy climbing but finding solid gear on that terrain is tricky. Place gear behind some loose rock and it will fail. You can also easily pull rock down on your partner(s). And handholds break on that stuff. Because there is so much offroute climbing that goes at 5.4 it is easy to get onto dirty or loose untested holds that are not well travelled. In some ways, the crud that makes up a 5.4 is the most dangerous for beginners. And rappels are part of the descent. Plus, the weather is going to heck. They could close the road while you are on the route, stranding your vehicle. Too many objective additional hazzards this time of year. Go back next summer and bag it after you practice with your gear. Hats off to you choosing such a great route. If you want, I will take your party up it next season after we review some anchor and rope stuff/ rappel in the gym.
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enjoimx
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Oct 16, 2016 - 12:34pm PT
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With your claimed level of experience you will almost certainly epic on cathedral peak in late October. I promise you.
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kaholatingtong
Trad climber
The real McCoy from somewhere over the rainbow...
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Oct 16, 2016 - 12:40pm PT
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Tioga is closed... Probably snowed on Cathedral lastnight... and good chance of more in the near future... maybe next year...
I highly recommend Cathedral however, something spectacular to go back for
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Karen
Trad climber
Prescott, AZ ~
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Oct 16, 2016 - 02:12pm PT
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Getting off the summit was the crux for me, freakin' scared me, super exposed 3/4 ....
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Scouz
Sport climber
QC
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 16, 2016 - 09:10pm PT
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Hi and Thank you for all the help, the 120 is closed so Guess It will be for a different time, its true that I need more experience I have no doubt :) This will give me time to learn some skills and see if next year were i'm at in the progression of things.
I still want to pass the day at Yosemite. maybe climb a sport route on the easier side, I just want to enjoy a nice fall day climbing. any recommendations ?
I have 3 days off when we are in Los Angeles (7-9 of Nov) and thinking to go to joshua tree park and maybe getting a trad class, any recommendations on this ?
Thank you again for your time and advice
Scouz
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Oct 17, 2016 - 06:43am PT
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Good point, Karen, about the down climb. When I did it for the fourth time last year with a guy in his late teens, I did belay him down the top section for a bit. It's solid rock but a few high-stakes positions. Take care, folks!
Super high winds across the East Side last couple of days. The season is changing fast.
BAd
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