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Shaneguy
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 29, 2016 - 10:25am PT
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Hey guys, did my first big wall last weekend (South Face- Washington Column) and found that my mouth gets very dry when climbing and jugging, most likely because I'm a mouth breather... Ended up going through my Camelback very quickly.
Any recommendations on how to prevent that, other than shutting my trap? I've heard of Jolly Ranchers and small pebbles, does this really work?
Thanks,
Shane
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Impaler
Social climber
Oakland
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Sep 29, 2016 - 10:27am PT
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Use lots of lip balm and bring more water than you think you need. I end up licking my lips a lot especially if it's windy and also get dehydrated quickly. I ALWAYS have chapstick with me and it definitely helps. Also don't gulp down too much water at a time. Take a few sips here and there, then you'll never get too parched.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Sep 29, 2016 - 10:36am PT
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I heard of the jolly rancher trick... one time when I was extremely dehydrated on a climb, I found an old cough drop (Ricola?) stuck to the bottom of my pack. Tried using it, and it welded onto the roof of my mouth and I didn't have enough spit to get it off! Took a long time to work through that one.
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Sep 29, 2016 - 10:40am PT
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More water. I carry a small water bottle on my harness when aid climbing but it sounds like you already have that covered with the camelback. Electrolyte replacement tablets in the water also help, at least they help me. But the bottom line is that everyone gets cotton mouth at some point, just do your best to stay hydrated.
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Escopeta
Trad climber
Idaho
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Sep 29, 2016 - 10:55am PT
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I heard of the jolly rancher trick... one time when I was extremely dehydrated on a climb, I found an old cough drop (Ricola?) stuck to the bottom of my pack. Tried using it, and it welded onto the roof of my mouth and I didn't have enough spit to get it off! Took a long time to work through that one.
LOL
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Sep 29, 2016 - 10:55am PT
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Cut back on the weed.
Jolly ranchers do help. Regular Small sips do help. Lip balm helps. Try to breathe in thru the nose and out thru the mouth when you think of it like jugging. Hard to focus on breathing when leading.
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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Sep 29, 2016 - 10:58am PT
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Hydrating like crazy for 5-7 days before you head up is really key. No soda....minimal coffee and tea those few days before. I know, super tough to do, but you need your kidneys to be primed and functioning well. Don't think of thirst as a throat, mouth and lip thing....that's where we feel it, but it starts in the kidneys!
I bonked from severe dehydration on Lurking Fear a couple years ago. Parched, over-sweating then stopped sweating, then ringing in my ears, then stomace ache and full on barfing on my partner at the belay. Not a fun thing.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Sep 29, 2016 - 11:00am PT
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The bartender at Dusty's Saloon outside Pecos saw a cowboy ride up and tie
his horse to the hitching post. Then he saw him walk to the back of his
horse and lift his tail up and it looked like he kissed the horse on the ass!
He walked into the saloon and ordered a whiskey. The barkeep thought better
of asking him about what he thought he saw him do as he didn't look like
somebody he wanted to get overly friendly with too soon. After about 8 more
whiskeys he actually became relatively friendly with the barkeep so he
took a chance and asked him
"When I saw you ride up I coulda swore you went back and kissed yer horse on its azz."
"Yup, I shore did. I got a bad case of chapped lips."
"How does kissing yer horse on its azz help?"
"It don't, pardner, but it shore keeps you from lickin' 'em."
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anita514
Gym climber
Great White North
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Sep 29, 2016 - 11:07am PT
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Reilly - is that what you do on all the walls you climb?
OP: I get the same way. Water doesn't really do much but I still drink as much as I can. Gatorade mixes help too. I'm going to try those gummy Shot Blocks in a couple weeks.
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16 ounces
climber
homer, alaska
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Sep 29, 2016 - 11:09am PT
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fwucking hard candy, man.
it's everywhere.
it's even in the pocket of the
girl who i just fornicated with,
but shouldn't have.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Sep 29, 2016 - 11:15am PT
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No, Anita, only the ones I bring a horse's azz on.
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i-b-goB
Social climber
Wise Acres
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Sep 29, 2016 - 12:11pm PT
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Don't haul!
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Sep 29, 2016 - 01:24pm PT
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Here's a formula that got us through our first three El Cap walls (temperatures averaging in the low 100's).
One liter of water during the heat of the day. One liter of water during the night. One master cylinder of malt liquor on first bivouac (optional).
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snakefoot
climber
Nor Cal
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Sep 29, 2016 - 01:31pm PT
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quit talking so much ya wuss. eat canned peaches and other fruits with water and no added sugar, leave the granola and fn dry bagels at home.
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Dennis Hennek
climber
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Sep 29, 2016 - 01:58pm PT
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Take more water.
Air gulping from shaded cracks also
helps.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Sep 29, 2016 - 02:04pm PT
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Beer
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Splater
climber
Grey Matter
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Sep 29, 2016 - 03:35pm PT
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If you finish your camelback in 6 hours,
try to finish the wall in less than that.
And / or, do not climb in hot weather.
there was that time we were so dehydrated,
way past the last brown piss,
that it might have been better to recycle
some of that piss back when it was only light yellow.
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Sep 29, 2016 - 04:51pm PT
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What Lauria said.....fer sure! Words of wisdom from loads of experience. The master cylinder is NOT optional.
Peace
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
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Sep 29, 2016 - 06:50pm PT
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