Sloan-ification of the Nose rap route

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Matt's

climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 1, 2016 - 12:27pm PT
apparently, Erik Sloan is setting up a 60M rap route for the nose:

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/new-bolts-on-the-nose-el-capitan-one-60m-rope-rapping-from-sickle-and-dolt/112114571

JLP

Social climber
The internet
Sep 1, 2016 - 12:43pm PT
Meh - it's already been done on the Salathe, nobody gave a sh!t...
looks easy from here

climber
Ben Lomond, CA
Sep 1, 2016 - 01:26pm PT
Is the intent for rescue/bailing, recreational rapping, or an alternative descent to the East Ledges?
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Sep 1, 2016 - 01:38pm PT
Oh man, the commitment of climbing the Nose will be brought down to that of following up on the promises made to your tinder dates! Now, one will be able to rap it with a 60m rope instead of a 70! where is this world going?! This generation of sport climbing wankers is taking over and the whole experience of climbing will be reduced to that of sending a pink v0 in the gym, FOR EVERYONE! SOMEBODY send the bolt police to chop the bolts and parade the torso of the Yosemite Parasite on Main Street in order to save El Cap from becoming the road-side crag the future generation wants it to feel like! No one wants the experience of climbing the Nose to be as sterile as Burchey before the vasectomy reversal! FIGHT FOR YOUR RIGHT TO RAP WITH TWO ROPES!

Use the #fightsloanification to connect to the other like minded internet warriors. And follow me at @mtngangsta while you're at it.
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
Sep 1, 2016 - 01:44pm PT
Nice writing Vitaliy. Keep it up.
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Sep 1, 2016 - 01:55pm PT
Not nice writing
Heartfelt tho.

It is just sad. We could have bolted anything but saw the chalk plumes grow on things like Killa pillar ? Was that it?
We saw that to strip very hard climbing down to a set of moves with a guaranteed outcome based on others work
was in no way as inspiring as doing it yourself with a 50/50 chance.
More than unfulfilling, it rubbed us the wrong way, it was cheating to top down bolt or create convince when the point was to do it free & clean .....striving for better style.








Honestly V?
My taste in music is not limited to anything,
YouTube Bad Brains or The stimulators,

but regegitating noise
screeching, turned up and down for vibrio Effect...

I did not make it through your share!
I mean I stopped it at 2:58, not 3 minutes in!
I'm impressed -that's some twisted visuals too!

I've been known to. . . .
Ho I've said to much...


V V V V V
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Sep 1, 2016 - 02:31pm PT
Please lets unite to make sure the experience of climbing El Cap will be kind of like this:

[Click to View YouTube Video]
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Sep 1, 2016 - 03:01pm PT
If he wooted me in front of Degnans I'd spit in his face.
Escopeta

Trad climber
Idaho
Sep 1, 2016 - 03:12pm PT
Locker, what was it I said a bit ago about climbing ethics being dead?
BLUEBLOCR

Social climber
joshua tree
Sep 1, 2016 - 03:25pm PT
Hey Sloaner, would it be cool if i glued on some holds under your RAPe Route?

I'll make it 5.8 and color tape it for ya😜
clinker

Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
Sep 1, 2016 - 03:28pm PT
Real men use 50 meter ropes anyway.
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Sep 1, 2016 - 03:43pm PT
Turning it into 20 Gunks climbs stacked on top of each other?

You will be left with what you deserve, a train of slobs pulling on anything to check it of the bucket list.


And I have the force es of god on my side I've seriously invited E Sloan to Come to Conneticut
And bolt up the trapp rock or loads of 5.8 @ND then some...



why not
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Sep 1, 2016 - 03:45pm PT
HaHaHaHaHaHa! Nice spray, Sholly! How about I take you both on?
I actually wouldn't spit on him because I try to be nice to LGBTW people.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Sep 1, 2016 - 03:55pm PT
You guys should take this beef to the NPR!
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Sep 1, 2016 - 03:56pm PT
HERE YOU GO VITALIY!!

[Click to View YouTube Video]
anita514

Gym climber
Great White North
Sep 1, 2016 - 04:26pm PT
Wow Reilly, your posts are the best!!!!!!!!!!! said no one ever.

Reading SuperTopo you'd think Erik was the most hated person ever. I was expecting to see all these people running after him, carrying their laptops and waving their fists in the air.

Maybe I'll see them this fall.
Lurkingtard

climber
Sep 1, 2016 - 04:30pm PT
More holes for America's largest peg board.

Gud training for that ninja show and the Olympics.





mcreel

climber
Barcelona
Sep 2, 2016 - 05:36am PT
Well, even after it has been dumbed down, I still have respect for anyone who can get up it in <24 hours.

I personally would think long and hard about modifying one of the greatest rock climbs in the world.
Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Denver CO
Sep 2, 2016 - 06:04am PT
+1 for chopping it. There is already one 'hardest route in the world' on el Cap (Dawn Wall) and it would be disappointing see to El Cap grid bolted with sport climbs. I think power drills are banned, and if one is used in this misguided plan, then YOSAR should rap in on 70 meter ropes and bust their asses.

I agree about the east ledges descent though. Some extra gear might be a good idea. It's been 25 years since I descended it, lol, but I don't think my ropes always reached the next anchor, and I remember having to move the haulbag across ledges while I was unclipped. There's no reason for that route to be dangerous.

[Click to View YouTube Video]
WBraun

climber
Sep 2, 2016 - 07:12am PT
then YOSAR should rap in on 70 meter ropes and bust their asses

YOSAR can't bust anyone.

Only law enforcement can ......
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