BAN 80 METER ROPES

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Mungeclimber

Trad climber

Nothing creative to say

Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 15, 2016 - 05:05pm PT

45 to 50 then 55 then 60 and now the damn 70 meter rope has taken over.

Carry less. Shorter pitches. Better communications. Less crag toproping.

Its Bad Climber's idea. Blame him for another climbing related thread. :)

Alexey

climber

San Jose, CA

Jul 15, 2016 - 05:10pm PT

The moon does not heed the barking of dogs.

Josh Higgins

Trad climber

San Diego

Jul 15, 2016 - 05:11pm PT

Argument for the 80m rope:

You can rap a lot of the routes on the Incredible Hulk with an 80m rope.
Linking up The Vampire at Tahquitz in 2 pitches.
Not bringing a 2nd rope on long sport pitches/extensions.
Training weight while hiking to the crag.

Nuf said...

Josh Higgins

donini

Trad climber

Ouray, Colorado

Jul 15, 2016 - 05:13pm PT

Ha, ha...I find 70 meter ropes to be the odd ones out. I use 60 meter for all of my multi pitch trad...I don't find, in most cases, that the extra weight of 70 m is worth it.
I have an 80 meter rope that is excellent for Indian Creek and sport climbing where you climb to anchors and lower off.

bluering

Trad climber

Santa Clara, CA

Jul 15, 2016 - 05:13pm PT

It's free country under the governance of a free-market system. If it sells well, people that are stupid and without common sense will buy it.

If not. There's hope...

zBrown

Ice climber

Jul 15, 2016 - 05:14pm PT

The Tubes said it best.

"Hang myself when I get enough rope
Can't clean up, though I know I should"

donini

Trad climber

Ouray, Colorado

Jul 15, 2016 - 05:26pm PT

I believe an 80 cubit rope was used.

NutAgain!

Trad climber

South Pasadena, CA

Jul 15, 2016 - 05:58pm PT

I'm fine with 70m ropes for long 1 pitch sport climbs to rap back down or do long topropes.

But multipitch, it's super-annoying to have double 60m ropes and deal with 10+ raps set up for a single 70m rope.

So 80m is fine for longer sport climbs or top-roping, but don't screw up rap spacing on multipitch stuff.

And then of course there's the issue of rope drag, ropes getting stuck, and partner communication... what about rope stretch and the second decking when falling after the first 10-20 feet?

overwatch

climber

Arizona

Jul 15, 2016 - 06:00pm PT

Support your rope makers and get at least two of each. You should be able to fix a minimum of 2500 feet at any given time

madbolter1

Big Wall climber

Denver, CO

Jul 15, 2016 - 06:14pm PT

It takes at least 80m to properly snare and tie up a charging Nephili.

wilbeer

Mountain climber

Terence Wilson greeneck alleghenys,ny,

Jul 15, 2016 - 06:27pm PT

Totally Agree.Munge.

edit; It is basically a backpacking trip to where I get to climb,go light,keep it simple.

JEleazarian

Trad climber

Fresno CA

Jul 15, 2016 - 06:57pm PT

I remember Chouinard griping in the early 1970's when we started moving from 150-foot ropes to 50 meters. Le plus ca change, le plus c'est la meme chose. (sorry for the lack of diacritical marks, I'm in too much of a hurry to do my French correctly).

John

healyje

Trad climber

Portland, Oregon

Jul 15, 2016 - 07:09pm PT

Be careful of running longer pitches together with skinny 70s and 80s. A good friend broke her ankle / foot falling as a second not far above the ledge she had belayed from after her partner had led out nearly the full length of the 70 they were climbing on. It turns out the rope stretch was such that she might as well have been free soloing when she fell.

Ghost

climber

A long way from where I started

Jul 15, 2016 - 08:08pm PT

Well, yeah, sure, all you weenies mumble on and on and on about how many meters is just right for whatever it is...

But that's weenie talk. The real climbers here don't care about your stupid stretchy lead ropes.

60 meters is the right length for a static rope, and that's the end of the discussion.