Hugh Herr-What I've Learned R & I #231

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Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 26, 2015 - 03:27pm PT
The latest issue of Rock and Ice has an excellent short article by my friend and climbing partner Hugh Herr. I climbed with Hugh right before and after he lost his lower legs and his perspective on climbing and the deeper challenges in life has always been astounding.

Hugh after we did Astroman in an afternoon. I think he was sixteen.
11worth

Trad climber
Leavenworth & Greenwater WA
Nov 27, 2015 - 07:58pm PT
Steve,
A climbing friend from Seattle, Charlie Lieu, did the interview and wrote the article. She was a classmate with Hugh. I am anxious to read it.
I remember watching Hugh climb City Park at Index back in the day.
Jim
Charlie-Ann

Trad climber
Edmonds, WA
Nov 27, 2015 - 08:09pm PT
LOL, I'm not a classmate of Hugh's, I was a grad student at MIT the first year he was a professor there. :-)

I'm a huge fan of Hugh as a technologist... didn't realize until much later that he was an elite level climber. Feel so grateful to have had the opportunity to write the profile. The digital version should be up at some point... I'll post the link when it's available.
11worth

Trad climber
Leavenworth & Greenwater WA
Nov 27, 2015 - 08:15pm PT
Sorry Charlie, my mistake
MisterE

Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
Nov 27, 2015 - 08:50pm PT
Steve, my first real climbing mentor, Zoltan Farkas, was mentored by Hugh Herr. I remember him doing pinch pull-ups on the rafters of his basement apartment in Ballard in the early 90's.

He still is a carpenter in Seattle - you may have run into him...

Erik
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 27, 2015 - 09:24pm PT
Erik- I remember Zoltan's name coming up BITD. Small world.

Charlie-Ann- You did a fantastic job of capturing Hugh's essence in this article.

Very well done!


Jim- What do you recall about Hugh's second free ascent of City Park?
MisterE

Gym climber
Small Town with a Big Back Yard
Nov 27, 2015 - 10:30pm PT
Thanks for the nod, Steve - and Charlie-Ann: his accomplishments and technological achievements are of the highest order. Looking forward to reading the article.

Zoltan was a serious 3X Black-belt before climbing and meeting Hugh, if memory serves correctly.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 27, 2015 - 10:37pm PT
Zoltan introduced Hugh's brother Hans to hang gliding too if I recall correctly.
slabbo

Trad climber
colo south
Nov 28, 2015 - 09:15am PT
The poster above Stage Fright was first done in 1985 about 20 days work. I think it had it's first ground up ascent last year. Still no onsite.


Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2015 - 02:13pm PT
Thanks slabbo- We were wondering about the current state of affairs with Hugh's best lead. Pretty tall order to onsight 5.12+ X!
Jon Clark

climber
philadelphia
Nov 28, 2015 - 06:50pm PT
Re: Stage Fright

Didn't Hugh work the route ground up leaving the gear in for each attempt? He didn't work it or inspect on TR did he? According to Handren's guide someone snaked his gear at some point so he replaced what was taken on TR (which he previously placed on lead). A pretty badass and admirable effort.

Can Slabbo offer any more insight on Hugh's route?
slabbo

Trad climber
colo south
Nov 29, 2015 - 11:48am PT
He did start placing gear on rap every day after the theft. I doubt Hugh did any dogging (it's not a good route for that).

He never tr'd it to my knowledge...I don't think he ever even got all the moves until the F/A !

A very impressive route for sure..I never got close to getting enough gear in.

Jimmy Surette " it's like Genesis (eldo) except without the bolt"
Funk 29

Trad climber
Wallowa, OR
Nov 29, 2015 - 11:58am PT
What a hero.
He did quite a few of the FA's in Lancaster County where I grew up. I would love to meet him some day.

I heard him interviewed on NPR a few years ago and was so inspired by his professional career as well.

Where can I find the Interview.

Matt Barley
slabbo

Trad climber
colo south
Nov 29, 2015 - 12:02pm PT
Hugh did a ton of impressive ascents in NH in the '80's hard and serious for sure.'

I think he may be better at his current obsession than his previous (climbing ) one..that's pretty tough to do.
Lorenzo

Trad climber
Portland Oregon
Nov 29, 2015 - 12:05pm PT
http://www.npr.org/2011/08/10/137552538/the-double-amputee-who-designs-better-limbs

He's done at least a couple TED talks as well
rick sumner

Trad climber
reno, nevada/ wasilla alaska
Nov 29, 2015 - 12:41pm PT
Herr's life story is an inspiration to say the least.
Charlie-Ann

Trad climber
Edmonds, WA
Dec 3, 2015 - 12:50am PT
Recent WIRED Cyborg Nation episode on Hugh's work -- https://youtu.be/a2z8CE2vomY
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2015 - 08:52am PT
At the time of his accident Henry Barber called Hugh "the best climber in the East" which is very lofty praise indeed.
slabbo

Trad climber
colo south
Dec 3, 2015 - 01:57pm PT
Well that seems about right..the flash attempt on Supercrack, sticky Bun Power..etc
duncan

climber
London, UK
Dec 8, 2015 - 06:15am PT

A repost but seems appropriate here. Hugh Herr on Pegleg, Needles, June 1984. Hugh thought the route had his name on it.
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