Is anyone reestablishing that Half Dome route today?


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Social climber
Cincinnati, OH
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 11, 2015 - 09:51am PT
Must be such a cool opportunity

Social climber
Elk Grove, California
Jul 11, 2015 - 04:16pm PT
The next King Swing!

Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
Jul 11, 2015 - 04:21pm PT
I'm going up there next week with my jackhammer and chiseling some hand and footholds thru the
blank section!

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Jul 11, 2015 - 05:45pm PT
It will be a real game changer if somebody makes it 5.12+ slab, instead of an aid ladder or something.

One of the great "moderate" routes in the world could be no more.

I'm glad I did it when we were only climbing up to hard 10/ easy 11!!

We tried to free as much of the Zig Zags as we could, but didn't try and hang out and work moves and stuff. We just did as best we could onsight and slipped comfortably into aid bits.

But a desperate, mandatory free section would change all that.

What is the best thing for the community as a whole?

Social climber
Jul 11, 2015 - 06:02pm PT
I wish there wuzza way I could LIKE Cozmik's note.

Jim Brennan

Trad climber
Jul 11, 2015 - 06:10pm PT
That section is plumb. No slab climbing need apply.

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Jul 11, 2015 - 06:11pm PT
CoZmic's Anasazi Variation!

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Jul 11, 2015 - 07:29pm PT
It's not like it can't be fixed if someone truly f*#ks it up. I don't think anyone wants to be known forever as the person who screwed it up. Uhm.. James isn't in the valley right now is he?

Meh whatever gets done is gunna be argued about ad nauseum though...should be fun.

Jul 11, 2015 - 07:29pm PT
Cedar Wright will climb it first .....

Jul 11, 2015 - 08:26pm PT

Jul 11, 2015 - 08:58pm PT
Nice pic from the link (too much snow to be 2015)

Trad climber
Jul 11, 2015 - 11:54pm PT
What would Robins do? Got to go to the man for permission.

Funny question.... why is chipping holds somehow more offensive than a bolt ladder? Just asking.

Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
Jul 12, 2015 - 01:46am PT
paging Caldwell and Jorgeson - please report to the base of Half Dome,

Trad climber
June Lake, California....via the Damascus Road
Jul 12, 2015 - 03:50am PT
Yesterday morning, my good friend and next door neighbor brought her visiting sister over to the house to meet me.

She had heard about the rockfall incident on the NW face, and my neighbor had told her that I had done the route in years past, so she had a few questions for me....reason being, at the time of the first ascent, she was married to Jerry Galwas.

We chatted for almost an hour, with her filling me in on some delightful details of that event all those years ago.

She keeps in regular contact with Jerry, and said she was looking forward to hearing his thoughts about the loss of the two pitches.

I'm hoping she will share his thoughts with me as well. If that happens, I will post up here.

And by the way, we bivied on Long Ledge.
Robert L

Jul 12, 2015 - 05:07am PT
How do you locals see this? Does the first team on the line have rights to the project until they relinquish it? How is the baton handed-over? As soon as they retreat? Or only if they pull their ropes and verbally offer it up to others?
The Warbler

the edge of America
Jul 12, 2015 - 07:00am PT
Honnald has done the Regular Route in the best style possible, maybe he should have the honor of re establishing it. If he wants to.

As far as the Direct goes, it can't be Todd, who did the FFA. Robbins did the first of both routes, out of respect for that, he should have a strong input as to what gets done, or at least have the opportunity to say he doesn't care

Seems obvious what to do. If I was doing it, I'd find the easiest possible free way to climb on each route, and insure that it could be climbed safely at the rating level of each route when they were first climbed using aid, or establish two different ways to go that satisfy those requirements.

Sounds like the section that fell is around the Robbins Traverse / Grand Terrace level, that might mean the bottom has fallen out of that whole gargantuan stack of flakes which make up many pitches of both routes, could be Dicey...

Nobody has a photo? Where's Ansel Evans and his big glass?
Dingus Milktoast

Gym climber
Maestro, Ecosystem Ministry, Fatcrackistan
Jul 12, 2015 - 07:25am PT
One of the great "moderate" routes in the world could be no more.

Correction: IS no more. The route is gone. Only a new route can supersede it. The old one ainta coming back.


Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jul 12, 2015 - 08:22am PT
It's a big wall route that has some aid climbing for the VAST majority of climbers. Keep it in the same vein.
Those earlier posts about slab climbing....the ONLY climbers who talk about slab climbing are from Cali and North Carolina.
John M

Jul 12, 2015 - 09:07am PT
Nobody has a photo?

a lot of photos on this thread..

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Jul 12, 2015 - 09:28am PT
As far as the Direct goes

Whoa, wait a minute! I've missed something...AGAIN!!
The Direct is falling off too?

Correction: IS no more.
I was talking about the 5.9 C-1 format, c'mon bro!
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