Is anyone reestablishing that Half Dome route today?


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Social climber
Cincinnati, OH
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 11, 2015 - 09:51am PT
Must be such a cool opportunity

Social climber
Elk Grove, California
Jul 11, 2015 - 04:16pm PT
The next King Swing!

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Jul 11, 2015 - 05:45pm PT
It will be a real game changer if somebody makes it 5.12+ slab, instead of an aid ladder or something.

One of the great "moderate" routes in the world could be no more.

I'm glad I did it when we were only climbing up to hard 10/ easy 11!!

We tried to free as much of the Zig Zags as we could, but didn't try and hang out and work moves and stuff. We just did as best we could onsight and slipped comfortably into aid bits.

But a desperate, mandatory free section would change all that.

What is the best thing for the community as a whole?

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Jul 11, 2015 - 06:11pm PT
CoZmic's Anasazi Variation!

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Jul 11, 2015 - 07:29pm PT
It's not like it can't be fixed if someone truly f*#ks it up. I don't think anyone wants to be known forever as the person who screwed it up. Uhm.. James isn't in the valley right now is he?

Meh whatever gets done is gunna be argued about ad nauseum though...should be fun.

Jul 11, 2015 - 07:29pm PT
Cedar Wright will climb it first .....

Jul 11, 2015 - 08:26pm PT

Jul 11, 2015 - 08:58pm PT
Nice pic from the link (too much snow to be 2015)

Trad climber
Jul 11, 2015 - 11:54pm PT
What would Robins do? Got to go to the man for permission.

Funny question.... why is chipping holds somehow more offensive than a bolt ladder? Just asking.

Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
Jul 12, 2015 - 01:46am PT
paging Caldwell and Jorgeson - please report to the base of Half Dome,

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Jul 12, 2015 - 08:22am PT
It's a big wall route that has some aid climbing for the VAST majority of climbers. Keep it in the same vein.
Those earlier posts about slab climbing....the ONLY climbers who talk about slab climbing are from Cali and North Carolina.
John M

Jul 12, 2015 - 09:07am PT
Nobody has a photo?

a lot of photos on this thread..

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Jul 12, 2015 - 09:28am PT
As far as the Direct goes

Whoa, wait a minute! I've missed something...AGAIN!!
The Direct is falling off too?

Correction: IS no more.
I was talking about the 5.9 C-1 format, c'mon bro!

Boulder climber
Jul 12, 2015 - 09:59am PT
Cragman, I belive that Jerry Gallwas was 19 years old and single when he did the First Ascent of the NorthWest Face of HalfDome with Royal Robbins and Mike Sherrick. . .df

Edit, in fact I think that he was living at home and discovering the Dirtbag life of Climbing. .
the goat

north central WA
Jul 12, 2015 - 10:11am PT
With all the technology today, is there any way to glue the ledge system back on?

Trad climber
Portland Oregon
Jul 12, 2015 - 11:11am PT
Sure, there's some modern structural epoxies that might hold up to 50 years until UV degradation sets in...

Before that, though. You go to the base and start dry-fitting the shards back together. Should only be a few million of them.
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Lassitude 33
Jul 12, 2015 - 11:30am PT
With all due respect to Royal Robbins and Gerry Galwas, the pitches they established and climbed do not exist anymore. As such, it is not for them to decide how a new section of rock should be climbed.

But, I have faith that a suitable replacement of the lost pitches, in keeping with the character and popularity of the route, will eventually be established.

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Jul 12, 2015 - 11:57am PT
A "reasonable" variation should definitely be one of the considerations in my mind.

I mean, a few thousands of 5.9 guys have done it, including Royal Robbins, let's go.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jul 12, 2015 - 12:15pm PT
This is an iconic route and some thought needs to go into reestablishing it so as to maintain the original character and grade if possible at about 5.9 C3. Royal, Jerry and Mike did their best and we need to do ours now with clear focus on the lasting quality of result. At least until Big Sandy becomes Little Sandy LOL
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Jul 12, 2015 - 01:12pm PT
Bonatti Pillar.

Shlt happens.
Messages 1 - 20 of total 131 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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