Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
|
Jul 12, 2015 - 03:21pm PT
|
If I can reach my goal of $5000 on Jumpstart Funding,
I will do it and you can watch me drill with live streaming on the web!
At the $250 level, I will stamp your initials in one of the bolt hangers!
|
|
BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
|
|
|
Jul 12, 2015 - 03:45pm PT
|
Locker, let's us go put a nut in it, and call it 5.7, many would be stoked;D
|
|
BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
|
|
|
Jul 12, 2015 - 04:08pm PT
|
maaaannnnn that sound SO WRONG!^^^^^^;^)
haha! We could call it; "The Irregular Route".
|
|
Psilocyborg
climber
|
|
|
Jul 12, 2015 - 07:54pm PT
|
Done, and done. Like a thief in the night!
|
|
coolrockclimberguy69
climber
|
|
|
Jul 12, 2015 - 08:55pm PT
|
just bolt on a big traversing peg board and be done with it
no stupid A0 bolt ladder and no lame ass slab stinkbug action
add two (2) 1" dowels to the rack per wall jockey, rigged so you can clip them off
you ppl are overthinking this
|
|
ß Î Ø T Ç H
climber
|
|
|
Jul 12, 2015 - 11:08pm PT
|
I am more concerned about the soloing of it.
Is Honndo's the first and last FS?
|
|
Curt
climber
Gold Canyon, AZ
|
|
|
Jul 12, 2015 - 11:21pm PT
|
1. Who gets to establish the new pitches on the Regular Route?
Who ever gets around to it first.
Curt
|
|
Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Denver CO
|
|
|
Jul 14, 2015 - 06:29pm PT
|
Whatever happened to Royal Robbins?
|
|
ecflau
Gym climber
CA
|
|
|
Jul 14, 2015 - 07:35pm PT
|
Nanook (Erik) - thanks for your reply... I'm glad to hear that it may be kept at a moderate grade, so gumbies like me can still climb it. Its been my dream for the past few years to do Half Dome and I really wanted to do it this fall or next spring, but if its runout 5.12 slab I'm screwed...
|
|
son of stan
Boulder climber
San Jose CA
|
|
|
Jul 14, 2015 - 09:00pm PT
|
Can't decide which helmet will protect me from that big 'hang fire' driveway
sized slab, if it releases at the wrong time.
|
|
JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
|
|
|
Jul 14, 2015 - 10:36pm PT
|
Bullwinkle, Gallwas' Gallop was put up in 1953 by Jerry, Wilts and Robbins, so he would have been awfully young then. Of course, Guido was rather young on the FA of Coonyard, too, so it's possible but, in my opinion, unlikely, that he was still a teenager in 1957.
As for who puts up other options to get to the upper part of the route, Curt has it right.
John
|
|
ß Î Ø T Ç H
climber
Shittawk WA
|
|
|
Jul 14, 2015 - 11:20pm PT
|
The variation should go left onto easier ground, and come back to join the pitches above the rockfall, like nothing ever happend.
|
|
Roger Brown
climber
Oceano, California
|
|
|
Jul 15, 2015 - 08:55am PT
|
Clint,
If you drill a bolt ladder, and maybe you should, we can all rest assured it will be hand drilled in good style. The route will be repaired and then the free climbers can then free your bolt ladder. I vote for Clint.
|
|
AP
Trad climber
Calgary
|
|
|
Jul 15, 2015 - 09:08am PT
|
Maybe its time for Ray Jardine to come out of retirement to do a chipped traverse line.
|
|
Tamara Robbins
climber
not a climber, just related...
|
|
|
Jul 15, 2015 - 12:42pm PT
|
I'm running late returning to work after lunch, but thought I'd share what I wrote in response to something on climbing.com regarding the slab fall. For the record, I'm not speaking for dad here.... just sharing my opinion ;)
"Possibilities in climbing have been totally expanded and rewritten by today's generation in the sport. Several decades ago it was incomprehensible that free solos of the sort we're seeing could happen. It seems to me that leaving challenges like this open and available for future threshold-pushers would be an appropriately humble approach (no pun intended....). IMO, that route (or, pitch) is GONE. To try and bolt to recreate it really goes against the precepts it was formed on.... the idea of clean climbing...."
|
|
Bruce Morris
Social climber
Belmont, California
|
|
|
Jul 15, 2015 - 12:52pm PT
|
Before drilling a bolt ladder, someone needs to go up there and see if the slab traverse goes at a modest standard, say 5.10b/c. Until someone goes up there and checks out the free climbing possibilities, it's all speculative.
"Not an image of the thing, but the thing itself"
 Ezra Pound (after T.E. Hulme)
|
|
limpingcrab
Trad climber
the middle of CA
|
|
|
Jul 15, 2015 - 01:08pm PT
|
Dyno
|
|
Stephen McCabe
Trad climber
near Santa Cruz, CA
|
|
|
Jul 15, 2015 - 01:13pm PT
|
Dyno. ha. good one.
I don't think I have the best resolution photos, but if the traverse doesn't work well, people might even look at going way down and right, up cracks and then back left to the chimneys, once the dust settles.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!