How crowded are the crags?

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DAN DUANE

climber
SAN FRANCISCO, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 17, 2015 - 03:17pm PT
Rip Van Winkle, here--I climbed from 1987 to 1992 then pretty much dropped out. Now the crags are calling me again and I'm dreaming of a comeback. But I'm hearing a lot of chatter about crowds, long lines at trade routes, that kind of thing. Talking northern California, here--Lover's Leap, the Valley, the Meadows. I'm curious in particular about the kinds of routes that people now call "trad." So ... opinion? What's it like out there? How bad is it (or not)? What do you have to do beat the crowds on the classics, these days?
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 17, 2015 - 03:19pm PT
Crowds are about the same as always. Queues for The Line at Lover's Leap and Nutcracker in the Valley, and other long time popular routes.
Byran

climber
San Jose, CA
Apr 17, 2015 - 03:21pm PT
It's pretty gnarly out there. Probably best to just rent a movie and stay home.




From a MP user

DAN DUANE

climber
SAN FRANCISCO, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 17, 2015 - 03:22pm PT
I recall there being a party or two in line for those routes on weekends, but I'm hearing reports of lines much bigger than that. Seven parties on Nutcracker at once, seven more waiting; that kind of thing. Incorrect? Exaggerated? I read an Astroman trip report that sounded like the entire route was an Everest-style gong show (not that I've ever done Astroman).
SweetWilliam

Boulder climber
TheSand,Man
Apr 17, 2015 - 03:31pm PT
dang man thats a lot of peeps. I think I been there the black car door in redrocks its routes on both sides and a grip o peeps up in there.

lsat time at the leap there was a lot and in the gorge a ton but they all go to the same thing and wait, I don't get it theres a lot of stuff and they all line up and don't even get to climb much.
jonnyrig

climber
Apr 17, 2015 - 03:42pm PT
Don't worry about it. Get out there. If your favored route has a line, move on to something else.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 17, 2015 - 03:59pm PT
Seven parties on Nutcracker at once, seven more waiting; that kind of thing. Incorrect?
May have happened once or twice, but not normal.
It's still possible to hop on the route with no queue, by going at the right time.
tolman_paul

Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
Apr 17, 2015 - 04:08pm PT
If they're calling, you must answer...

I haven't been climbing in Norcal since leaving 18 years ago, but from the few times I've been in the area and visited climbing areas, Pinnacles, Yosemite and the Meadows, I'd say it's not that much different. On a busy weekend popular lines are going to be packed, go more off season or mid week and you'll have a totally different experience.

Heck, last time I went to the pinnacles to spend the morning hiking through the high peaks, I had the entire park to myself (mid week in mid November) Last time I wandered up to the base of Fairview dome there were a few parties on the Regular route, no different then when I'd climbed it 20 years previously.

Don't know if you got out of climbing just prior to it getting crazy poplular but it seems somewhere in the early to mid 90's it went from going out to the crags and seeing a few other climbers, and going out and it seemed like seeing a line hanging from every route.
mouse from merced

Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
Apr 17, 2015 - 04:25pm PT
If yo looking for mo info, go see fo yo self. :0)

Just git out there and talk it up with the rest of the Q who want to do the same classic climbs as you.

I've enjoyed your puglished work, DD. Welcome back to the fold.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Apr 17, 2015 - 05:28pm PT
Tons of hawt women out climbing... that will be a change for you.

But don't worry, if you wish to avoid the hordes.....just walk a bit uphill.

I climb all over the place, its still pretty rare thing to run into others.....

If Mouse says your cool.... you are.

Welcome back

phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
Apr 17, 2015 - 08:11pm PT
There is a huge difference between climbing on the weekend and on weekdays.
My friend and I spent an entire day at Conan Corridor in J Tree last Friday and did not see another person all day.
On the following Monday we spent a perfect weather day in the shade at New Jack and saw only one other party.
Both of those places would be packed on a Sat. Or Sun.

In general I think sport climbing areas and "popular" routes with short approaches are all crowded on weekends.
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Apr 17, 2015 - 08:13pm PT
Somewhere along the line, about a decade ago, I picked up your book Looking for Mo and enjoyed it :)
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Apr 17, 2015 - 11:40pm PT
Books that deserve to be linked </;+D

http://books.google.com/books/about/El_Capitan.html?id=YlZNTSUJKKoC

and also

http://books.google.com/books/about/Looking_for_Mo.html?id=zfJsHSUNtzAC

GREAT READING - WELL WRITTEN - SO MUCH SO THAT IT MAY LEAD SOME TO SUFFER FROM FEELINGS OF INFERIORITY!
Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
Apr 18, 2015 - 12:24am PT
Castle Crags? never seen any people waiting up there,
overwatch

climber
Apr 18, 2015 - 10:34am PT
Gotta get to castle crags, that place looks like an adventure.

As per dogs and dogshit aren't dogs required equipment these days?
DAN DUANE

climber
SAN FRANCISCO, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2015 - 11:31am PT
Thanks, gents! Much obliged. Encouraging
Josh Nash

Social climber
riverbank ca
Apr 18, 2015 - 04:42pm PT
learn to embrace the pre dawn start.
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Apr 18, 2015 - 05:53pm PT
Climb one or two star routes. I can't tell the difference between a five star and one star with a gun to my head, they're all fun!
apogee

climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
Apr 18, 2015 - 05:54pm PT
"Dogs and dog sh#t everywhere"

Kindly leave your pup at home (if this applies to you)
Da-Veed

Big Wall climber
Bigfork
Apr 18, 2015 - 07:19pm PT
Base of the Zodiac last year.
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