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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Apr 18, 2015 - 07:48pm PT
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No waiting around here . . . just don't forget your A-game and your brain bucket.
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overwatch
climber
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Apr 19, 2015 - 07:59am PT
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That Zodiac picture...just PTPP's stuff
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tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
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Apr 19, 2015 - 11:21am PT
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At least four parties on Snake Dike yesterday
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Rolfr
Trad climber
La Quinta and Penticton BC
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Apr 19, 2015 - 06:02pm PT
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Just pull out the plug and climb harder routes, there won't be any crowds. Stay away from the multi pitch routes under 5.10 .
It goes to prove the old adage, if climbing was easy , every one would do it. Do some thing that challenges you and there won't be any crowds and you wouldn't give a F anyways
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eagle
Trad climber
new paltz, ny
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Apr 27, 2015 - 08:41am PT
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THE GUNKS IS MAD CROWED THESE DAYS
PEOPLE COMING FROM MILES AROUND
BEST GO ON A WEEKDAY OR IF YOU'RE BOLD ENOUGH, HEAD OUT TO THE BANK, AKA MILLBROOK. THERE IS USUALLY NO ONE THERE AND THERE ARE A HANDFUL OF AWESOME CLIMBS UNDER THE 5.9 GRADE BUT, LIKE THE OLD SAYING GOES AND STILL STANDS TRUE TODAY.......DON'T GET HURT AND IF YOU DO RESCUE WILL TAKE SOME TIME AND BY THEN YOU MIGHT BE DEAD BRING YOUR CELL PHONE
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Apr 27, 2015 - 09:32am PT
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It can get bad. I've had some frustrating days at Joshua Tree where I had difficulty finding anything .10 and under that didn't have a party or TRs on it. Really. We drove the stretch of road between Trash Can Rock and about Dihedral Rock, and everything had someone or at least ropes on it. No joke. Another time, the wife and I waited for someone to finish the Jam Crack, and then we ran up and down it in about 30 minutes, and by the time we were done a crowd of FIVE parties had assembled at the base. Crazy. I mean what's going on in the head of that fifth party who shows up, sees the four parties ahead of them and still decides to wait? I don't get it.
Having said that, I was at Josh about a month ago and it was relatively deserted, so go figure. Remember that lots of newer climbers are either lazy or unfamiliar with the crags. As long as you avoid the trade routes and other conveniently located crags, it gets much better. You may have to try several times to get on that much anticipated classic, but you get your mileage in and find some fun new climbs in the process.
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Ksolem
Trad climber
Monrovia, California
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Apr 27, 2015 - 11:43am PT
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It's really easy to avoid crowds if you don't mind wearing out some shoes. And some good but uncrowded spots are not even very far off the road, you just have to keep your ear to the ground and chat up the right people, or go find some spots on your own. Of course this means that some days you'll do a lot more walking than climbing but what the hell...
No crowds here. 20 min. from the parking lot.
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melski
Trad climber
bytheriver
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May 11, 2015 - 12:25pm PT
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cant find a parking space at smith rocks on the weekend,,incase you havent noticed thewhole west has more lines every where you go nowdays,,there should be a new app. for this issue,,,
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Seamstress
Trad climber
Yacolt, WA
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May 11, 2015 - 12:51pm PT
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Crazy parking at Smith this past weekend - cars lined up for a half mile beyond the park. The park is also used for hiking, biking, and running. The trail and road running races this weekend consumed a lot of parking. The lines were ridiculous for routes on Saturday afternoon. Sunday was better, with generally a wait of 30 minutes to get on a climb. The number of raptor closures is also putting pressure on the formations that remain open.
I have started to look at the Mazamas calendar to avoid weekends when they will be there as they show up with massive groups of 60 people. Colleges are also sending lots of people in vans for their big field day, generally groups of 15 - 20 people. Commercial guiding isn't an issue. The clubs and colleges do tie up many routes. In particular, the Mazamas are very proficient at rotating their people between routes and never allowing others to climb. They are remarkably efficient, arriving well before other users and coordinating their activity.
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EP
Trad climber
Way Out There
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May 11, 2015 - 12:55pm PT
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Never waited for routes at Dome Rock or the Needles.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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May 11, 2015 - 01:16pm PT
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Thirteen at once on ancient art today, but that's work... Rarely anyone on most of the climbs I do for me..
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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May 11, 2015 - 01:19pm PT
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Don't show up at 10AM on a Saturday on a 50 crowded classic and complain about the crowds.
Go to a crag with a few options lined up and pick the one with no one on it.
A climb like Snake Dike is asking for trouble. A long approach (people won't turn away they'll just line up) to an easy (many more moderate than advanced climbers), classic (it's a super well known classic), fun climb (very fun so people repeat it despite the drawbacks), to a spectacular summit (worth the hike for that alone), exposed (but easy so you get people on this type of climb for the first time so they get nervous and move slow). But you can still climb it by yourself. Go when the cables are down. Start super early or do it in a full moon.
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