Wind River Range VS. Sierra Nevada

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christoph benells

Trad climber

Tahoma, Ca

Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 11, 2015 - 10:50pm PT

I've always been a Sierra man, but lately i've been looking at some pictures of the Wind River Range.

I'd like to hear your comparisons of the two.

limpingcrab

Trad climber

the middle of CA

Apr 11, 2015 - 10:51pm PT

I've looked at lots of pictures of mountains and the winds look closer to the Sierra than any other I've seen. Only passed through and never climbed there though. Of course the Sierra wins for size and weather

Reilly

Mountain climber

The Other Monrovia- CA

Apr 11, 2015 - 10:54pm PT

The Winds are much preferable if you like sheep, for whatever reason.

Flip Flop

climber

salad bowl, california

Apr 11, 2015 - 11:08pm PT

I have been to the Wind Rivers and camped under those beauties. I really want to be able to answer your question with authority but I can not. They are very beautiful.

The approaches in the Winds were flat and cruisy and the climbs looked nice and laid back. (Not too steep).

Byran

climber

San Jose, CA

Apr 12, 2015 - 01:27am PT

I think the Sierra is probably 5 times the size of the Winds, maybe more. Not really a fair comparison. You could just as easily flip the scales and ask which is better: the Palisades or the greater North American Rockies?

With that said, there's only one mountain range in the world with Yosemite Valley...

norm larson

climber

wilson, wyoming

Apr 12, 2015 - 06:30am PT

The biggest difference lately is we still have winter here in the Wind Rivers.

I've climbed extensively enough in the Winds to note a few big differences.

One that always surprises me in the Sierra is the lack of wildlife. Here in Wyoming it's common to see antelope, moose, elk, deer, grizzly, and now wolves at any point in your day in the mountains. When I'm in the Sierra they feel somewhat sterile to me, aside from the occasional deer and those pesky jerk camp bears.

Horses also rule in Wyoming and it's all to common to encounter long strings of them as well as their sh#t.

Mosquitoes. I've had them pretty bad in the Sierra but the Winds take the cake there. They dominate at least half of our short weather window here.

We have a very short season here in the Winds. No real foothill climbing or roads through the mountains means you are limited to the higher regions for climbing which is snowbound for most of the year.

You don't need a permit to visit the Winds. A few areas are fairly crowded in July and August but most places you can find yourself alone on a route.

There are many truly great routes in the Winds but the Sierra is hands down the best range for the number of quality long rock routes on great rock. The weather is definatly more stable in the Sierra.
The feeling of the terrain in both is at times so similar that you couldn't tell them apart. Except in the north end of the Winds where we have some nice glaciers and ice routes. That's pretty special for the lower 48.
Having climbed in the Winds for over 40 years now I find myself going to the Sierra more and more to climb routes that I haven't done. That's always been one of the most important things in climbing for me. There is just so much great climbing in the Sierra with a much longer season.
Bottom line is they are both great places with great climbing.

Larry Nelson

Social climber

Apr 12, 2015 - 07:32am PT

I've only hiked in the Winds, but several friends have climbed there.
I was in the Winds in summer and it had the feel of Alaska, including the mosquitoes.
The Sierra's seem warmer and friendlier, with the most awesome climbing in the world.

Flip Flop

climber

salad bowl, california

Apr 12, 2015 - 08:36am PT

Thanks Norm. I'm going to have to spend more time out there. My son will be backpacking in a few years and the Wild nature in the Wind Rivers sounds great. I'd like to see those glaciers and maybe a wolf.

steve shea

climber

Apr 12, 2015 - 10:10am PT

There few comparisons, mostly contrasts. For the total package, the Winds. For just the stone maybe, probably, the Sierra. The Winds are far from being "climbed out" though.

You will love packing in the Winds with your kids. We go there with our twins quite a bit in summer.

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber

Livermore, CA

Apr 12, 2015 - 10:28am PT

if you love climbing backcountry granite you'll love both places...

the Winds are much less visited than the Sierra, fewer people, less easy-access... so the routes are much more adventuresome (independent of the grade). I also found the guidebooks to be "old school" in that they get you to the climb but pretty much leave it up to you to do the route. And example is the truly horrible topo for the "50 crowded climbs in NA" Pingora route... maybe that has been has been bested in some other guide.

there is also more traditional mountain weather (thunderstorms starting around mid-day) so the Alpine habit of pre-dawn approaches usually works to your advantage...

The Cirque is a big destination, but there is a lot more like it and even less well travelled area. For the most part, I found the hikes in a lot less challenging than grinding up the "East Side" of the Sierra.

The Sierra has a lot to offer too, and there are plenty of seldom visited spots to go with relatively well described access and many great challenges. For me it always feels like home there... but I'm not as experienced in the Range of Light as I'd like to be...

as for mosquitos, climb in the Northeast in the spring... you will welcome mosquitos after dealing with the blackfly, and in terms of ranking, the NE is second to AK for the voracious urgency of these species to complete their life-cycle, the western swarms are not that bad, comparatively.

Flip Flop

climber

salad bowl, california

Apr 12, 2015 - 02:40pm PT

Bump for the quilt.

TWP

Trad climber

Mancos, CO & Bend, OR

Apr 12, 2015 - 03:21pm PT

I am a Winds man with virtually no Sierra experience, so let the reader beware.

The Winds are a poor man's Patagonia.

The Winds as a roadless wilderness area equal to almost 1.1 million acres comprised of three wilderness areas and Indian Reservation wilderness.

The nearest big cities are Salt lake City (250+ miles) and Denver/Boulder (450 miles).

The dirt road to Big Sandy is 40 miles from paved.

The fastest/nearest rescue is two days deployed from Grand Teton NP area - after you can get word out and cell coverage is either hit and miss from summits or after miles of driving from the trailhead at Big Sandy (much less from the north Winds trailhead outside of Pinedale).

Climbing pressure is non-existent except on the 50 most crowded (Pingora, Wolf's Head) in the Cirque of the Towers (which best at least 90% of all rock climbing traffic). Recent years have some more rock climbers headed to Haystack.

I believe Winds routes have a sneakiness - even if rated at a moderate grade the routes often end up feeling harder than grade. Be mindful who put up the first ascents and the stage of their climbing careers. Many 5.9 routes aren't because 5.9 was the highest grade when the first ascent took place. I've encountered "5.9" continuous liebacks at these high elevations that left me panting and dying for breath after all-out efforts at the limits (and beyond, i.e. hang dogging).

Sneaky hardness also exists because the guidebook's usefulness ends at the base of the rock often times. So the ease of the route is contingent upon your own ability to locate and onsight the easiest line. Mistakes are easy to make. E.G. The guidebook won't tell you which of two parallel cracks to take. No topos; you are on your own to pick the right line. Better get it right!

And the weather. Last year experienced verglas, snow, regular storms that virtually shut down all climbing for four weeks. Yet, the year before, it was glorious sunshine everyday.

Flip Flop

climber

salad bowl, california

Apr 12, 2015 - 04:48pm PT

TWP,
That sounds awesome. I have that familiar feeling of elation and nostalgia about the many lifetimes of climbing in the American West. I am trying to cast free the bond and Go Beckey or maybe Go Donini. I just love looking around the next corner. Thanks For Posting Up the good beta.

ms55401

Trad climber

minneapolis, mn

Apr 12, 2015 - 05:23pm PT

so, after seeing Yosemite become a scene, and then Bishop become a scene, and then the High Sierra become a scene, I think the answer is pretty obvious

sheepdog

Trad climber

just over the hill

Apr 12, 2015 - 07:08pm PT

I'll echo the sentiments of Steve Shea, Dr. Ed and Flip Flop. Late August early Sept are good times to visit if you want to minimize mosquito related blood loss...though on the downside the flowers will be disappearing as well...

Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber

Old and Broken Down in Appalachia

Apr 12, 2015 - 08:50pm PT

I was always under the impression that the a Winds had hellacious approaches

TWP

Trad climber

Mancos, CO & Bend, OR

Apr 12, 2015 - 10:09pm PT

Define "helacious." Please.

adam d

climber

Apr 12, 2015 - 10:41pm PT

I live in California and I choose to go to the Wind River range just about every summer for 16 years.

I also go to the Sierra just about every summer.

Love 'em both.