Wind River Range VS. Sierra Nevada

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Messages 1 - 36 of total 36 in this topic
christoph benells

Trad climber
Tahoma, Ca
Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 11, 2015 - 10:50pm PT
I've always been a Sierra man, but lately i've been looking at some pictures of the Wind River Range.

I'd like to hear your comparisons of the two.
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Apr 11, 2015 - 10:51pm PT
I've looked at lots of pictures of mountains and the winds look closer to the Sierra than any other I've seen. Only passed through and never climbed there though. Of course the Sierra wins for size and weather
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Apr 11, 2015 - 10:54pm PT
The Winds are much preferable if you like sheep, for whatever reason.
Flip Flop

climber
salad bowl, california
Apr 11, 2015 - 11:08pm PT
I have been to the Wind Rivers and camped under those beauties. I really want to be able to answer your question with authority but I can not. They are very beautiful.

The approaches in the Winds were flat and cruisy and the climbs looked nice and laid back. (Not too steep).
Byran

climber
San Jose, CA
Apr 12, 2015 - 01:27am PT
I think the Sierra is probably 5 times the size of the Winds, maybe more. Not really a fair comparison. You could just as easily flip the scales and ask which is better: the Palisades or the greater North American Rockies?

With that said, there's only one mountain range in the world with Yosemite Valley...
norm larson

climber
wilson, wyoming
Apr 12, 2015 - 06:30am PT
The biggest difference lately is we still have winter here in the Wind Rivers.

I've climbed extensively enough in the Winds to note a few big differences.

One that always surprises me in the Sierra is the lack of wildlife. Here in Wyoming it's common to see antelope, moose, elk, deer, grizzly, and now wolves at any point in your day in the mountains. When I'm in the Sierra they feel somewhat sterile to me, aside from the occasional deer and those pesky jerk camp bears.

Horses also rule in Wyoming and it's all to common to encounter long strings of them as well as their sh#t.

Mosquitoes. I've had them pretty bad in the Sierra but the Winds take the cake there. They dominate at least half of our short weather window here.

We have a very short season here in the Winds. No real foothill climbing or roads through the mountains means you are limited to the higher regions for climbing which is snowbound for most of the year.

You don't need a permit to visit the Winds. A few areas are fairly crowded in July and August but most places you can find yourself alone on a route.

There are many truly great routes in the Winds but the Sierra is hands down the best range for the number of quality long rock routes on great rock. The weather is definatly more stable in the Sierra.
The feeling of the terrain in both is at times so similar that you couldn't tell them apart. Except in the north end of the Winds where we have some nice glaciers and ice routes. That's pretty special for the lower 48.
Having climbed in the Winds for over 40 years now I find myself going to the Sierra more and more to climb routes that I haven't done. That's always been one of the most important things in climbing for me. There is just so much great climbing in the Sierra with a much longer season.
Bottom line is they are both great places with great climbing.
Larry Nelson

Social climber
Apr 12, 2015 - 07:32am PT
I've only hiked in the Winds, but several friends have climbed there.
I was in the Winds in summer and it had the feel of Alaska, including the mosquitoes.
The Sierra's seem warmer and friendlier, with the most awesome climbing in the world.
Flip Flop

climber
salad bowl, california
Apr 12, 2015 - 08:36am PT
Thanks Norm. I'm going to have to spend more time out there. My son will be backpacking in a few years and the Wild nature in the Wind Rivers sounds great. I'd like to see those glaciers and maybe a wolf.
steve shea

climber
Apr 12, 2015 - 10:10am PT
There few comparisons, mostly contrasts. For the total package, the Winds. For just the stone maybe, probably, the Sierra. The Winds are far from being "climbed out" though.

You will love packing in the Winds with your kids. We go there with our twins quite a bit in summer.



Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Apr 12, 2015 - 10:28am PT

if you love climbing backcountry granite you'll love both places...

the Winds are much less visited than the Sierra, fewer people, less easy-access... so the routes are much more adventuresome (independent of the grade). I also found the guidebooks to be "old school" in that they get you to the climb but pretty much leave it up to you to do the route. And example is the truly horrible topo for the "50 crowded climbs in NA" Pingora route... maybe that has been has been bested in some other guide.

there is also more traditional mountain weather (thunderstorms starting around mid-day) so the Alpine habit of pre-dawn approaches usually works to your advantage...

The Cirque is a big destination, but there is a lot more like it and even less well travelled area. For the most part, I found the hikes in a lot less challenging than grinding up the "East Side" of the Sierra.

The Sierra has a lot to offer too, and there are plenty of seldom visited spots to go with relatively well described access and many great challenges. For me it always feels like home there... but I'm not as experienced in the Range of Light as I'd like to be...



as for mosquitos, climb in the Northeast in the spring... you will welcome mosquitos after dealing with the blackfly, and in terms of ranking, the NE is second to AK for the voracious urgency of these species to complete their life-cycle, the western swarms are not that bad, comparatively.


Flip Flop

climber
salad bowl, california
Apr 12, 2015 - 02:40pm PT
Bump for the quilt.
TWP

Trad climber
Mancos, CO & Bend, OR
Apr 12, 2015 - 03:21pm PT
I am a Winds man with virtually no Sierra experience, so let the reader beware.

The Winds are a poor man's Patagonia.

The Winds as a roadless wilderness area equal to almost 1.1 million acres comprised of three wilderness areas and Indian Reservation wilderness.

The nearest big cities are Salt lake City (250+ miles) and Denver/Boulder (450 miles).

The dirt road to Big Sandy is 40 miles from paved.

The fastest/nearest rescue is two days deployed from Grand Teton NP area - after you can get word out and cell coverage is either hit and miss from summits or after miles of driving from the trailhead at Big Sandy (much less from the north Winds trailhead outside of Pinedale).

Climbing pressure is non-existent except on the 50 most crowded (Pingora, Wolf's Head) in the Cirque of the Towers (which best at least 90% of all rock climbing traffic). Recent years have some more rock climbers headed to Haystack.

I believe Winds routes have a sneakiness - even if rated at a moderate grade the routes often end up feeling harder than grade. Be mindful who put up the first ascents and the stage of their climbing careers. Many 5.9 routes aren't because 5.9 was the highest grade when the first ascent took place. I've encountered "5.9" continuous liebacks at these high elevations that left me panting and dying for breath after all-out efforts at the limits (and beyond, i.e. hang dogging).

Sneaky hardness also exists because the guidebook's usefulness ends at the base of the rock often times. So the ease of the route is contingent upon your own ability to locate and onsight the easiest line. Mistakes are easy to make. E.G. The guidebook won't tell you which of two parallel cracks to take. No topos; you are on your own to pick the right line. Better get it right!

And the weather. Last year experienced verglas, snow, regular storms that virtually shut down all climbing for four weeks. Yet, the year before, it was glorious sunshine everyday.

Flip Flop

climber
salad bowl, california
Apr 12, 2015 - 04:48pm PT
TWP,
That sounds awesome. I have that familiar feeling of elation and nostalgia about the many lifetimes of climbing in the American West. I am trying to cast free the bond and Go Beckey or maybe Go Donini. I just love looking around the next corner. Thanks For Posting Up the good beta.
ms55401

Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
Apr 12, 2015 - 05:23pm PT
so, after seeing Yosemite become a scene, and then Bishop become a scene, and then the High Sierra become a scene, I think the answer is pretty obvious
sheepdog

Trad climber
just over the hill
Apr 12, 2015 - 07:08pm PT

I'll echo the sentiments of Steve Shea, Dr. Ed and Flip Flop. Late August early Sept are good times to visit if you want to minimize mosquito related blood loss...though on the downside the flowers will be disappearing as well...
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
Apr 12, 2015 - 08:50pm PT
I was always under the impression that the a Winds had hellacious approaches
TWP

Trad climber
Mancos, CO & Bend, OR
Apr 12, 2015 - 10:09pm PT
Define "helacious." Please.
adam d

climber
CA
Apr 12, 2015 - 10:41pm PT
I live in California and I choose to go to the Wind River range just about every summer for 16 years.

I also go to the Sierra just about every summer.

Love 'em both.



norm larson

climber
wilson, wyoming
Apr 13, 2015 - 03:45am PT
In the Winds there are many unclimbed walls like this one.
Charlie D.

Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
Apr 13, 2015 - 05:40am PT
The Wind River Mountains are absolutely beautiful. If you love the Sierra you will fall in love again.
steve shea

climber
Apr 13, 2015 - 07:53am PT
Norm's and TWP's post pretty much sums it up. Approaches I think are part of the deal and the reward is the wild, remote nature of the place.

One thing not mentioned is the skiing and alpine/ice climbing. Depending on what you want to do the season can be long. On average snow years here, 450" or so the Winds can get more than their fair share. The range is particularly prone to up slope storms dumping significant snow. Given the elevation mentioned by Norm and the snow pack the season for rock is tight.

That snowpack though, depending on the year can offer August neve and ice the likes of the Black Ice etc. I have had fun alpine climbing in there many times. Deep NE facing gullies splitting some big walls offer the best chances. Ihe spring offers up great BC touring and camping. The usual trip is to ski into the area of choice, camp and yo yo the surrounding snow fields.

There is also waterfall climbing. And I am not referring to the Golden Tears area outside of Dubois. There are waterfall/seep routes that will impress. You just have to go look for them. Late autumn is the time to go but you can get snowed out any time so be ready.

The winds have been down graded to a Wilderness Area. When I started going in there in 1970 it was known as the Popo Agie Primitive area. The trails were not marked nor was there any maintenance of any sort. There were more shepherds in there than climbers. We used to go in for weeks at a time, resupply in Pinedale then go in again. If you do want to explore and have a remote alpine experience go Winds. Plus there are more routes to do than you can imagine and I'm not talking existing climbs.
looks easy from here

climber
Ben Lomond, CA
Apr 13, 2015 - 08:02am PT
I really enjoy long, beautiful approaches as part of the adventure of isolated climbing, but needing to take a plane is a bit too much of an approach for now.
Branscomb

Trad climber
Lander, WY
Apr 13, 2015 - 08:30am PT
Winds are okay, certainly have had a lot of nice trips in there, but I'm a Californian at heart, born and raised and there is no range in the world more beautiful and with better stone to climb on than the Sierra Nevada.
NML81

Trad climber
N Lake Tahoe
Apr 13, 2015 - 10:41am PT
I found the cross-country hiking and a multitude of 4th class routes in the Winds to be similar to the Sierra, very good. The breaker for me was the permitting. Last time I was in the Winds, I pulled up to the trailhead, filled out a permit and went on my merry way, like it. Not possible in the Sierra.
Charlie D.

Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
Apr 13, 2015 - 11:24am PT
Ha Bob! You sound a little home sick, hope to see you in the Trench this season.

Cheers,

Charlie D.
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Apr 13, 2015 - 11:56am PT
I'm just back from nearly a week in Saline Valley, accessed via the north side after driving up Highway 395 and cutting east from Big Pine.

I've come to the conclusion that there is essentially infinite new rock to explore, no way to consume it in many lifetimes. If it is just the rock you want, look close to home for the unexplored nooks and crannies. If it is about the overall experience, that need to see what is around the next corner, you can satisfy that itch going ridge to ridge in a small patch of the Sierras or visiting many countries to explore the world or anything in between. Hard to go wrong with any choice.

One of my favorite mottos is "why choose when you can have both?"
Branscomb

Trad climber
Lander, WY
Apr 13, 2015 - 12:37pm PT
Yes, Charlie, I get pretty homesick for California granite. I'm in the machine now supervising the lab and part of Allied Health which is good, because my daughter, bless her heart, is attending a ridiculously expensive university in the Pac NW, so, I gotta do this. May get out there the beginning of June, but see how goes.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Apr 13, 2015 - 01:19pm PT
Love the winds I think I would love the sierras also. But would not love permits that are only had by a few. Hope to go to the Big Horns this weekend. They are the real deal for lots of thousand+ foot cliffs from 10-13,000ft. Fishing in the Big Horns may be better as well.
dogtown

Trad climber
Cheyenne, Wyoming and Marshall Islands atoll.
Apr 14, 2015 - 02:12pm PT
I think Norm pretty much nailed it. Especially the comments about the wildlife, a can or two of pepper spray not a bad idea around campsite and on trail. Something you can pretty much do without in the Sierra. As for the mosquito and Bugs in general “Unpleasant to be sure”.

limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Apr 14, 2015 - 03:20pm PT
One that always surprises me in the Sierra is the lack of wildlife.

Agree to disagree with this one. I suppose if you're talking about megafauna (big things with cute eyes) and usually go to the high Sierra, then the Winds win. On the other hand, the Sierra Nevada is far more biologically diverse than an of the continental ranges.

Not really the kind of diversity most people who aren't huge nerds would notice or enjoy... Lucky for me I'm a huge nerd!
limpingcrab

Trad climber
the middle of CA
Apr 14, 2015 - 03:58pm PT
^^^^^^ It's crazy how much that picture looks like the Sierra! I've always wanted to go back to the Winds to climb, they sure are pretty to look at. Definitely less critters visible in the forest around here...
Bad Fiducci

climber
Wilson, WY
Apr 14, 2015 - 04:37pm PT
The Winds suck... tell your friends....
steveA

Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
Apr 14, 2015 - 06:38pm PT
The biggest faces in the Winds tend to be located the furthest from the trailhead.

The East Fork Valley has some of the ranges longest routes, but the hike in is about 16 miles. I have gone in and out quite a few times in one day, carrying 60-70 lbs. but it is hard work.

The main face of Ambush Peak has a few 16 pitch routes on it, all of which are 5.10.
flatlandermcjack

Ice climber
South Dakota
Dec 10, 2015 - 09:21am PT
Wyoming beats California as often as Beef beats Chicken
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 10, 2015 - 01:22pm PT
Afternoon t-showers...long approaches...more wildlife, that's the Windy's.
the museum

Trad climber
Dec 11, 2015 - 06:11pm PT

the museum
Messages 1 - 36 of total 36 in this topic
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