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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 5, 2014 - 02:08pm PT
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There is a boatload of climbing on the highway fifty corridor, and disclosing it won't blow it out. Easily accessed areas will continue to be the most popular areas to climb at. Let's hear about seldom visited areas. Manky rock, inches of lichen, it's all good. Telling about these places won't measurably increase visitation, it'll only increase quality visitors.
I like random crags, and live thousands of miles away, so I'm no threat to the sanctity of your special spots.
My lips are sealed...
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Crags being obscurities along the Hwy 50 corridor is a bit of a misnomer, being that almost all of them are hiding in plain sight. All one has to do to discover them, is to open your eyes.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
extraordinaire
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I drove thru there the other day.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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With exceptions like 31st Milestone Tract
You can see that from Sugarloaf if you're looking hard enough;) That's how I found it.
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Topic Author's Reply - May 5, 2014 - 04:54pm PT
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Go on...
There's that place on the south side of the Cyn near Kyburz. Eagle Rock?
Drive to the top and rap in?
C'mon, if you're not going to tell, at least show some photos. Disguise features that would help pinpoint a location.
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jonnyrig
Trad climber
formerly known as hillrat
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How many ya been to Iron Butte?
Any points east of that?
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Topic Author's Reply - May 5, 2014 - 07:47pm PT
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Good sun baked stuff out there I'm sure.
Show, don't tell.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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This place aint for the timid.
Drive to near the top, walk down or rap. Then look for obvious crack systems or one of these. They contain all the beta you need to know.
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Brock
Trad climber
RENO, NV
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Your probably talking less California and more Nevada hwy 50. Out by Ely there sure are some beautiful formations. Some real alpine big walls too at 12000'. I don't know much about them.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Head out on 50 across Nevada to the wilds of Western Utah for some real climbing....Notch Peak and Ibex await you.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Name this HWY 50 obscurity.
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Charlie D.
Trad climber
Western Slope, Tahoe Sierra
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Perhaps Bob Branscomb will chime in here, as I recall doing a number of his old routes years ago up off of Ice House Road. Ha I remember an area of basalt with a climb named "Moving to Montana", funny BB ended up in Wyoming!!! Plenty of obscure, is Dave Stam out there regarding Sin City? Another lost crag from days long gone or maybe one that sees traffic for those who prefer no lines, I'm not much for trashing around anymore.
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Branscomb
Trad climber
Lander, WY
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Yes, there are a LOT of obscure climbs in the Crystal Basin, along Ice House Road all the way into Loon Lake. Don Garrett, Ron Vardanega, Kim Treadaway, Kristi Stouffer and I put up a lot of 1-2 pitch routes along there in the late 70s through the 80s.
I used to publish the Guide to the Crystal Basin until early 1990s, when Kristi and I decamped to Wyoming. The Loon Lake sections are on Mountain Project/Tahoe Area/Loon Lake.
The areas we worked in are the Lyons Lake/NW face of Pyramid Peak, Slick Rock, the Basalt Bluff, Looney Tunes, and East shore of Loon Lake. I still have the proof of the guide and have sent copies to the curious on occasion.
The bluff on the south side of the American River east of Kyburz is called Eagle Rock (I'm pretty sure), approached by driving up some nearly 4wd road off Silver Fork Road, going just south of the ridge that leads to the rock. You walk down the west side of the rock to the base. Paul Brown and I climbed two routes there off the old Gene Drake guide, I believe called Mammy Blue (5.9, 2-3 pitches) and Onion Jack (I think that was the name)(5.9, 2-3 pitches). They were nice routes that followed two different crack systems with all gear placements (can't remember any bolts) and pleasant place the climb.
Hope this is of some help.
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Old Gene Drake guide??? Never seen that one. Bob, do you have an old copy somewhere. I'd really like to see some scans of it if you do.
You are correct though, it's name is Eagle Rock and can be accessed by dirt roads from the South. There's been some logging activity in the area lately so the roads no longer require 4wd. It has an approach similar in difficulty to Sugarloaf unless you have some gnarly 4WD and can drive to the top. If you do, contact me, we should go climbing ;)
If you're really interested in climbing out there, contact me. I don't mind giving up the beta. All the routes tend to be a bit on the... "adventurous" side though.
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