Welsh Rock

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Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 13, 2013 - 04:56pm PT
A few early pictures from Trevor Jones' and Geoff Milburn's book "Welsh Rock"

Welsh geology: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Geology_of_Wales

Clogwyn Du'r Arddu:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=457
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Clogwyn_du%27r_Arddu

Rock-type: Rhyolite - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rhyolite

Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 13, 2013 - 04:57pm PT
... and then a few more:
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Nov 13, 2013 - 05:02pm PT
These pics are certainly bumpworthy. Thanks much.

The first climbing books I checked out from the local library were British, and featured lots of Welsh and English rock. The pictures were all of the variety designed to make the palms sweat -- leaders in nails edging up imperceptible holds on hemp ropes with no protection in sight.

John
perswig

climber
Nov 13, 2013 - 10:26pm PT
So many good photos - page 217 shows great micro and macro scale.

Lots of character in the portraits, too.
Dale
Wade Icey

Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
Nov 13, 2013 - 11:16pm PT
Oh...Welsh rock

Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2013 - 01:27pm PT
More Welsh Rock.

Clogwyn du'r Arddu, The Black Cliff, has got it's own book - by Peter Crew, Jack Soper and Ken Wilson:


Some pioneers:


"Colin Kirkus (19 June 1910-13 September 1942), was one of the most influential climbers Britain has ever produced.
Jack Longland described the greatest rock face in Wales, Clogwyn Du'r Arddu, as "Colin’s Cliff". Kirkus' series of new routes on "Cloggy" was unparalleled until the emergence of Joe Brown, 20 years later. Kirkus also climbed extensively in the Alps and made a pioneering Alpine-style ascent in the Himalaya in 1933. He was killed in the Second World War in 1942.
Kirkus left the world of mountaineering two tremendous legacies: firstly his pioneering climbs in Wales and elsewhere, and secondly one of the finest instruction books ever written "Let's Go Climbing!"."

http://thosewhodared.blogspot.no/2011/06/colin-kirkus_16.html
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 15, 2013 - 04:14pm PT

Clogwyn du'r Arddu - East Buttress

Joe Brown climbing - Clogwyn du'r Arddu
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Nov 15, 2013 - 04:27pm PT
Fun climbing in Wales.....a little spice and lots of weather and history.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Nov 15, 2013 - 04:34pm PT
We drive up to the pass. Even by a Seattleite's standards it's bloody wet.
We stare up at the Corner.

"Alan, it's pissing."

"Ach, Reilly, it's nay pissing. It's only a bit o' the damp."
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Nov 15, 2013 - 04:36pm PT
Awesomeness!

These are the kind of inspiring photos I grew up with.
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 15, 2013 - 04:49pm PT

"Alan, it's pissing."
"Ach, Reilly, it's nay pissing. It's only a bit o' the damp."

Haha... that's the spirit... that's the spirit...


Alun Hughes: UPSIDEDOWN WALES

An award winner before it was even finished, Best Film at LLAMFF 2008 - now much worse...

A lifelong epic of the most trivial proportions - humour finally triumphant over gravity...

He wants to climb those roofs pretty badly, and that's what happens....

Interview With Joe Brown

A rare interview with the greatest rock climber of all time, Joe Brown, 'The Human Fly'. A relaxed Joe tells George Smith the story of his sixty year love affair with Welsh rock, from his first ascents on Cloggy in the fifties - putting up routes that redefined the sport of rock climbing in Britain - to his more recent Welsh explorations at Tremadog, Gogarth and Dinorwic quarry. Using first ascent photos that have never been published before Joe chats candidly with George about his motivation and his spirit of adventure.

"Joe's love of the fun and adventure of climbing is as fresh as ever in this fascinating interview. His description of the techniques of placing chockstones for critical runner protection and the film of sliding down the mountain railway track are valuable additions to the history of climbing technologies." Ken Wilson.

"Fantastic, incredibly funny I thought." George Smith

Quotes:

"Like salad after a diet of chips" Ed Douglas

"Dead sound and 'there'" Jim Perrin

“My daughter laughed out loud right through the film – until I told her it was a documentary” Mick Johnstone.

"My dog died last night but then I saw UpsideDown Wales, and I'm alright now" Anita Grey.

donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Nov 15, 2013 - 04:52pm PT
Joe Brown the "greatest rock climber of all time".....no, but quite likely the most influential.
Blakey

Trad climber
Sierra Vista
Nov 15, 2013 - 06:02pm PT
When I was twelve I went on my first formal outdoor trip, organised by my school to a 'Field Study Centre' - an outdoor camp where you were introduced to Mountain walking, climbing, canoeing and the like.

This would have been 65. The climbing was all in big bendy boots, the kit basic (hemp waist lengths and Tarbuck knots).

Any how, scattered around the canteen were old climbing magazines with lots of articles which mentioned Joe Brown. At the time the only Joe Brown I knew was a well known lead singer in a skiffle band - 'The Bruvvers'. I was mighty impressed that somebody could be so variously talented!

This misconception lasted several months, before the penny eventually dropped.

The doppleganger .....no Welsh climbs for him!


Steve
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 15, 2013 - 06:10pm PT
Hehe... great story Blakey... was it a disappointment when you learned the truth about singer and climber Brown?
Blakey

Trad climber
Sierra Vista
Nov 15, 2013 - 06:14pm PT
More an embarrassment, at least I hadn't run around saying 'jeez,this is amazing, our best rock climber and he's got a number one hit!'
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 15, 2013 - 06:38pm PT
Blakey

OT: The misunderstanding embarrassment I remember best from my childhood was connected to Manchester United. They were my favourite team from the age of eight. When I was eleven someone had to be firm and clear to convince me that my pronounciation of the United part of the name was possibly wrong. In my version the un part of United sounded as the un in "untold", the i as the i in "in" and the ted part as the tedd in "teddy". No one was able to convince me about the "junaitid" version before I listened closely to TV...
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2013 - 10:36am PT

Clogwyn du'r Arddu routes (ukclimbing.com):
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crag.php?id=457

Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2013 - 11:16am PT
Wade Icey

I'm trying to connect Wales and the Led Zeppelin cover picture you posted from "Houses of the Holy", but haven't been able to do so. Both Robert Plant and John Bonham were born close to Wales, but not in Wales. Aubrey Powell who is behind the cover art was English, but not Welsh, and the fascinating rock structure in the picture is from Giant's Causeway in Northern Ireland. How do I connect? Irish rock? ;o)

Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2013 - 11:54am PT

Joe Brown and when he started climbing...
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2013 - 11:55am PT

Easy climbing at Cloggy
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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