Welsh Rock

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Messages 121 - 127 of total 127 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Marlow

Sport climber
OSLO
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 22, 2016 - 01:21pm PT

Left Wall of Cenetaph Corner Llanberis. North Wales.

[Click to View YouTube Video]

An early ascent of Left Wall by Rowland Edwards and Eric Jones, filmed by Bob Godfrey in 1964. And a bit of pebble and nut history.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Dec 18, 2017 - 02:42pm PT
Thanks to Marlow and others for building this thread!

Of particular entertainment value is the Mountain Rescue Reels from 1949.

Knot-craft befitting an Eagle Scout, not a running belay in sight, hobnail boots on rock, initially the sense that all goes well and controlled on these outings, unless of course, fatigue sets in, and then the ragdoll whipper. Blast! Just when I thought I could point out what wankers modern climbers are!

For a short film, it shows decent production values for the time. However, were I the director, just for dramatic tension, I would've had that partner take a good face plant on his speedy descent going for help, and for sure, that evac team needed to be moving double time on the approach!

The Bob Godfrey short, capturing early nutcraft on Left Wall, (post just above), is of great historical value!
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Dec 18, 2017 - 03:24pm PT
This one lacks the charm of the era specific climbing scenes and the indulgence in operational details of the lead-follow scenario so well depicted in the 1949 version, but it's the next link in the theme:

[Click to View YouTube Video]
rmuir

Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
Sep 2, 2018 - 02:05pm PT
I found this old photo of Ricky and me on the last bits of Quartz Icicle…

Thinking back, I do believe that most exposed route I did in all of Wales was Willan's route, Vember (E1 5B), on Cloggy. I did it on a subsequent visit to Snowdonia back in 1980. Done in 1951, Vember is a really necky lead! Steep, too…

rmuir

Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
Sep 2, 2018 - 04:16pm PT
Our 1977 attempt on the Right Wall of Cenotaph… Ricky on the necky lead with very dodgy pro.


When he ripped from his high point, he lifted me a good 10' in the air, he did.
Rick A

climber
Boulder, Colorado
Sep 4, 2018 - 03:44pm PT
Yikes Rob! Haven't looked at those shots in a while: 41 years ago.

Regarding Right Wall, the nuts were surprisingly good as far as I got, but tiring to place. You'll recall that we had little idea of where the line actually went, as we were trying to do the route without top-down inspection. That is why when I realized that my arms were failing, I decided to take the risk and go for what looked like the next resting spot a ways up. I was correct, as the nuts held, but those twin nine mil ropes stretched like bungee and the fall was a bit longer than expected.

Is it an exaggeration to say that I stopped at a point so close to the ground that I could have shaken your hand at the belay?



rmuir

Social climber
From the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
Sep 4, 2018 - 06:46pm PT
While I'm certain we could have shaken hands, that would not have been wise.

With that old-school hip belay, it would have meant we'd both have taken the plunge! 🤣
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