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NCC
Sport climber
Sherman Oaks, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 8, 2013 - 03:49am PT
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Hello Fellow Rock Climbers.
My name is Neil C. Cohen (NCC).
I am a Rock Climber at Planet of the Apes Wall (Malibu Creek -
Calabasas, CA) AND Beethoven's Wall (Stoney Point - Chatsworth, CA).
Both Calabasas, CA and Chatsworth, CA are in the San Fernando Valley
(North West Corner of Los Angeles).
At Planet of the Apes Wall (Malibu Creek) and Beethoven's Wall (Stoney Point), I became aware of a climbing danger to ALL climbers!
If someone slips off the rock at the bottom of:
the Planet of the Apes Route (Planet of the Apes Wall) AND
the Prow Route (Beethoven's Wall),
any climber will swing into large boulders!
At any rate, I suggest that a anti-swing anchor bolt be placed at the
base of both the Planet of the Apes Route and the Prow Route.
Only a person with route setting bolt experience can do this.
Route setters, thank you for taking your time to help your fellow
climbers!
You can reach me by:
E-Mail: Ncohen1358@aol.com
Phone: 818-986-2668
Your Fellow Rock Climber,
Neil C. Cohen (NCC)
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Oh the horror of a small swing.
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Adamame
climber
Santa Cruz
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Its good for climbers to confront the dangers rather than negating them all. You fall and you can get hurt. Just because it's sport doesn't mean it's safe.
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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"Route Setter"? Calling an older climber a "Route Setter" is akin to in insult. "Route Setters" are found in gyms, not at climbing areas.
Yer mama wears Army boots dude.
LOL
quoted: "Only a person with route setting bolt experience can do this."
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apogee
climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
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Troll is funny troll
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MisterE
Social climber
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While you are at it, route setters - could you replace all of the dirt that has been eroded away by climbers at Ape's Wall? 30 cubic yards should do.
TIA!
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PeteC
climber
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I would suggest we all sign our posts with our phone numbers. Think of the ramifications.
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matty
Trad climber
under the sea
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I will get my pry bar tuned up
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JimT
climber
Munich
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Surely if they slip off they just hit the ground, just like normal climbing.
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Roots
Mountain climber
SoCal
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My solution is to just avoid Malibu Creek - too much poison oak and too many people.
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BlueWing
Boulder climber
SCV, Ca
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Hey ... NCC
I'm not gonna apologizzzzze for these guyzzzz
I iz juz a troll
prob iz they kinda own this place
bcus ... they really do know a thing or two bout climbing
i have picked up a lot ...
that i really do use
so ... get yer thick skin on
and try to hang out
good luck!
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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What - you mean a climber might swing into something and get hurt? While you're at it maybe you should contact Boxer or Feinstein so they can outlaw lead climbing too.
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neversummer
climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
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Great idea..
Both Calabasas, CA and Chatsworth, CA are in the San Fernando Valley
(North West Corner of Los Angeles). clears that up, thanks.
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ruppell
climber
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What the hell is an anti swing bolt? I can't picture this at all.
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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I think that he just wants more bolts on the routes. More bolts=shorter falls=less swinging.
I kinda want to call the phone number, just to see if it's real and who I get.
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pyro
Big Wall climber
Calabasas
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matty i'll second that!
no directionals needed for stoney point prow set up. just use more webbing lots of webbing. i set up using one rope "W" style.
apes wall is bad enuff no directionals take the swing the tourist love it!
how about tri-cams for those pockets :)
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Just looks like pretty good motivation to pull through the first half clean, to me.
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LilaBiene
Trad climber
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Someone should invent an instantly inflatable bubble to cushion the impact of the swing. That ought to fix things good.
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Ihateplastic
Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
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I was going to go nuclear on this but I have calmed down.
First question, are the hardest moves down low or after the traverse?
If they are up high then why would anyone capable of doing the upper moves peel down low?
With all those wankers piddling around up there I presume there must be a directional point on top where you could have the rope take a middle fall line so if you fall down low you wing left a bit and if you peel up high you wing right a little bit.
Overall, if you are afraid of grazing your thighs on some rock then find a new hobby/sport.
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