SAFETY ANTI-SWING ANCHOR BOLTS!!!

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NCC

Sport climber
Sherman Oaks, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 8, 2013 - 03:49am PT
Hello Fellow Rock Climbers.
My name is Neil C. Cohen (NCC).
I am a Rock Climber at Planet of the Apes Wall (Malibu Creek -
Calabasas, CA) AND Beethoven's Wall (Stoney Point - Chatsworth, CA).
Both Calabasas, CA and Chatsworth, CA are in the San Fernando Valley
(North West Corner of Los Angeles).

At Planet of the Apes Wall (Malibu Creek) and Beethoven's Wall (Stoney Point), I became aware of a climbing danger to ALL climbers!
If someone slips off the rock at the bottom of:
the Planet of the Apes Route (Planet of the Apes Wall) AND
the Prow Route (Beethoven's Wall),
any climber will swing into large boulders!
At any rate, I suggest that a anti-swing anchor bolt be placed at the
base of both the Planet of the Apes Route and the Prow Route.
Only a person with route setting bolt experience can do this.

Route setters, thank you for taking your time to help your fellow
climbers!

You can reach me by:
E-Mail: Ncohen1358@aol.com
Phone: 818-986-2668

Your Fellow Rock Climber,
Neil C. Cohen (NCC)

Jon Beck

Trad climber
Oceanside
Mar 8, 2013 - 05:45am PT
Oh the horror of a small swing.
Adamame

climber
Santa Cruz
Mar 8, 2013 - 06:52am PT
Its good for climbers to confront the dangers rather than negating them all. You fall and you can get hurt. Just because it's sport doesn't mean it's safe.
couchmaster

climber
pdx
Mar 8, 2013 - 09:43am PT
"Route Setter"? Calling an older climber a "Route Setter" is akin to in insult. "Route Setters" are found in gyms, not at climbing areas.

Yer mama wears Army boots dude.

LOL


quoted:
"Only a person with route setting bolt experience can do this."
apogee

climber
Technically expert, safe belayer, can lead if easy
Mar 8, 2013 - 10:17am PT
Troll is funny troll
MisterE

Social climber
Mar 8, 2013 - 10:27am PT
While you are at it, route setters - could you replace all of the dirt that has been eroded away by climbers at Ape's Wall? 30 cubic yards should do.

TIA!
PeteC

climber
Mar 8, 2013 - 10:32am PT
I would suggest we all sign our posts with our phone numbers. Think of the ramifications.
matty

Trad climber
under the sea
Mar 8, 2013 - 10:53am PT
I will get my pry bar tuned up
JimT

climber
Munich
Mar 8, 2013 - 12:07pm PT
Surely if they slip off they just hit the ground, just like normal climbing.
Roots

Mountain climber
SoCal
Mar 8, 2013 - 12:27pm PT
My solution is to just avoid Malibu Creek - too much poison oak and too many people.
BlueWing

Boulder climber
SCV, Ca
Mar 8, 2013 - 03:14pm PT
Hey ... NCC
I'm not gonna apologizzzzze for these guyzzzz
I iz juz a troll

prob iz they kinda own this place
bcus ... they really do know a thing or two bout climbing
i have picked up a lot ...
that i really do use

so ... get yer thick skin on
and try to hang out

good luck!
kev

climber
A pile of dirt.
Mar 8, 2013 - 03:30pm PT
What - you mean a climber might swing into something and get hurt? While you're at it maybe you should contact Boxer or Feinstein so they can outlaw lead climbing too.
neversummer

climber
30 mins. from suicide USA
Mar 8, 2013 - 03:41pm PT
Great idea..

Both Calabasas, CA and Chatsworth, CA are in the San Fernando Valley
(North West Corner of Los Angeles).
clears that up, thanks.
ruppell

climber
Mar 8, 2013 - 03:52pm PT
What the hell is an anti swing bolt? I can't picture this at all.
looks easy from here

climber
Ben Lomond, CA
Mar 8, 2013 - 03:59pm PT
I think that he just wants more bolts on the routes. More bolts=shorter falls=less swinging.

I kinda want to call the phone number, just to see if it's real and who I get.
Dave Kos

Social climber
Temecula
Mar 8, 2013 - 04:01pm PT
I can't picture this at all.

It looks like this:



splitclimber

climber
Sonoma County
Mar 8, 2013 - 05:14pm PT
i was curious so

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/planet-of-the-apes/106239437



so are you suggesting a bolt on the face to be used as a directional for a top rope climb ???

how about a cam in one of those pockets instead?
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Mar 8, 2013 - 05:34pm PT
matty i'll second that!

no directionals needed for stoney point prow set up. just use more webbing lots of webbing. i set up using one rope "W" style.

apes wall is bad enuff no directionals take the swing the tourist love it!

how about tri-cams for those pockets :)

top-rope at the Ape's wall forever!
top-rope at the Ape's wall forever!
Credit: pyro
looks easy from here

climber
Ben Lomond, CA
Mar 8, 2013 - 05:35pm PT
Just looks like pretty good motivation to pull through the first half clean, to me.
LilaBiene

Trad climber
Mar 8, 2013 - 06:12pm PT
Someone should invent an instantly inflatable bubble to cushion the impact of the swing. That ought to fix things good.
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
Mar 8, 2013 - 06:47pm PT
I was going to go nuclear on this but I have calmed down.

First question, are the hardest moves down low or after the traverse?

If they are up high then why would anyone capable of doing the upper moves peel down low?

With all those wankers piddling around up there I presume there must be a directional point on top where you could have the rope take a middle fall line so if you fall down low you wing left a bit and if you peel up high you wing right a little bit.

Overall, if you are afraid of grazing your thighs on some rock then find a new hobby/sport.
matty

Trad climber
under the sea
Mar 8, 2013 - 07:51pm PT
Talk to Weld_it .....he's here on supertopo

FAKT: Weld_it: root setter, rappellar and mann enough for the job.




he may be off training for K2 though so YMMV
Rolfr

Social climber
North Vancouver BC
Mar 8, 2013 - 08:58pm PT
This should help NCC with that dreaded swing. http://www.deadgoodundies.com/apparel/joe-snyder-sheer-mesh-hug-cheek-28-jockstrap.html
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Mar 8, 2013 - 09:09pm PT
Surprised no one here has said it yet,
I'll handle this one!


Hey HCC,












YUR















GUNNA



















DIE!


MisterE

Social climber
Mar 8, 2013 - 09:25pm PT
Someone should invent an instantly inflatable bubble to cushion the impact of the swing. That ought to fix things good.

^^It's called the N00b Bumper®, and it lines up along the boulder to learn the opening moves, so they don't swing into...well, you get where this is going.
LilaBiene

Trad climber
Mar 9, 2013 - 11:09am PT
HA!!!

E, hiLARious!!!

Surely you've already applied for the patent, too?

;D

guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Mar 12, 2013 - 01:00pm PT
The opening moves on Apes are trickey... somebody has been digging out the bottom to add more vert to the climb.

If your so afraid, please do what any climber would do and place a cam/tri-cam in one of the holes.... duh...

+100 to who said these are climbs, not "SET ROUTES"

looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
Mar 12, 2013 - 01:12pm PT
somebody has been digging out the bottom to add more vert to the climb.

According to the Malibu Creek State Park, a permit is under consideration to bring a backhoe in to excavate "up to an additional 23 feet of dirt and loose rocks at the base with the aim of increasing the recreational opportunities..." at Planet of the Apes Wall.

Check out this document for more information http://www.parks.ca.gov/pages/795/file/2009%20SPOA%20Summary%20Finding.pdf
kennyt

climber
Woodfords,California
Mar 12, 2013 - 01:25pm PT
Where is the best place to purchase anti swing safety bolts?

According to the Malibu Creek State Park, a permit is under consideration to bring a backhoe in to excavate "up to an additional 23 feet of dirt and loose rocks at the base with the aim of increasing the recreational opportunities..." at Planet of the Apes Wall.

Is that as bad as using chalk or chipping?
Gary

Social climber
Right outside of Delacroix
Mar 12, 2013 - 01:44pm PT
Batten lives!!! I knew he was trolling us!
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