Cosmiccragsman
Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
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Jan 23, 2013 - 10:12pm PT
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"Cosmic...I sense some objectification coming from you....you'd better cover your O's...RJ "
Shut up, RJ, or I'll dot your i"s!
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
mammoth lakes ca
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Jan 23, 2013 - 10:16pm PT
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Cosmic...Quit stalking me...RJ
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MisterE
Social climber
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Jan 23, 2013 - 10:17pm PT
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Great shots and history, Bob - Ah, the salad days...
Erik
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Cosmiccragsman
Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
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Jan 23, 2013 - 10:28pm PT
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What kinda Lettuce did you use, Erik?
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MisterE
Social climber
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Jan 23, 2013 - 10:33pm PT
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Red leaf for me, friend. :)
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Cosmiccragsman
Trad climber
AKA Dwain, from Apple Valley, Ca. and Vegas!
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Jan 23, 2013 - 10:40pm PT
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LOLOL
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 10:47pm PT
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Seriously, there's just no way to go wrong with this fine little stone. The thing I'm on is a thrilling little V3ish problem that pulls an itty bitty roof on hyper-committing slopers. Do. Not. Fall. Best problem EVER goes directly up the middle of the white streak on absurd slopers, then grapples the roof. Scary and very committing at the top. No name, but it's way harder than other problems that have been tagged V5 or V6 by others. I'm thinking...wait for it...you guessed it...BIG ROCKS 5.11c!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2013 - 11:24pm PT
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Big Rocks is Roof Central. Dozens of 'em. Wish I had more and better photos of these gems. The vast lowball/sitdown potential was never really explored because there were too many untouched looming 20 footers crying out for attention. I think this one is Skull Rock Roof.
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Jan 23, 2013 - 11:52pm PT
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Whoa, that place looks fun! It looks like the rock quality varies a bit, is that true?
3 bolt sport routes on old boulder problems is definitely lame, though I have to say that my 50+ year old body can't take hard impact falls anymore. But the problems should be there for whoever can do that stuff.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2013 - 12:43am PT
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Of course, if you decide on a change of pace and scenery, this place is 30 minutes from Big Rocks and 2,000 feet lower. Hundreds of established problems on damn good Wingate. But really, that's another story.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2013 - 09:22am PT
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Way to go Weezy! La Sals Southside Secret Spot in tha house! 10,000 feet of Alpine goodness with the worse landings on Earth! Is that Gurman in the last photo?
I think I'll broaden the scope of this thread to ALL of the magnificent Whine County, er, I mean WAYNE County! Awapa Plateau, Deepwater Lakecliff bouldering at 11,000 feet on the Aquarius Plateau, Rabbit Valley, all the Wingate Nuggets in CRNP, the Entrada mudboulders aound Hanksville, all of the dozen Henry's area large and small. Oh Vey. Did you know a nice Moenkopi Stone House can be had in Torrey for $80,000? I'm movin' back someday.
Rumor has it there's a little itty bit of slick black pocketed stone around Mount Ellsworth in the Little Rockies...
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weezy
climber
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Jan 24, 2013 - 09:43am PT
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not gurman in the last photo, bvb. the landings aren't too bad if you have enough pads. the crux is not dropping your car keys or any other small devices into the talus, lol. i have a running goal to do 100 problems in a season up there, but failed twice now. lot harder than i thought it was going to be.
bvb, someone drew me a map for some boulders near the black table mesa in the henrys. have you checked those out? i didn't have enough time the day i was there. also some gnarly woodward slab routes up on the mesa itself apparently.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2013 - 10:02am PT
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Yeah, early on Jonny was trying to con me into going to Black Table (he wanted to kill me and snake Jocelyn) but I'd seen that stuff up close and knew what I was getting into. We checked out those black boulders on the southside of Holmes in the Fall of '93, but at that point we'd found the Horn and were so blown aways we thought "maybe there's something even BETTER?!" But it soon became clear that the Horn was the standout bouldering so that's where we spent most of the next 10 years.
Ever check out any of that sh#t up on Bull Mountain?
Jared Spaulding did a Wayne County Climbing Guide that was published last month, or a month before. "Capitol Gorgeous." Full of errors and omissions re: grades and and forget about corect names or history but at least it gets you to the area and steers you to the good stuff. He did a great job IMO. I think he includes the Cockscomb/Black table boulders but leaves everthing else for the Henries out.
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TwistedCrank
climber
Dingleberry Gulch, Ideeho
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Jan 24, 2013 - 10:10am PT
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BVB for the mutha fukkin win.
without boobs.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2013 - 11:26am PT
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I've got boob shots of women climbing topless up there, but I seriously suspect the ex would go apeshit if I posted 'em. Pity.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2013 - 11:34am PT
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A better view of The Brain at Big Rocks. Four burly problems take on the overhang/roof, and a really, really good problem is out of view on the backside. You can see Hanna's diaper bag in the foreground, and Kyle is wandering in the back checking out arrowheads. You want good 4WD to get to this thing. Joe Reis did an unrepeated problem out the biggest steepest part called "Mensa." Family bouldering fun! Nice views, too.
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darkmagus
Mountain climber
San Diego, CA
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Jan 24, 2013 - 11:47am PT
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Lately I've been thinking about the climbing in AZ, which was never on my radar until I moved to San Diego.
This thread seals the deal: I MUST GO.
What's the guidebook situation like? Anything better than the Wayne County one that was mentioned? Or does one require a tour guide to find these gems?
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weezy
climber
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Jan 24, 2013 - 12:29pm PT
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thanks for the history, bvb. i've always looked up at all the bull mt. "granite" (trachyte? diorite?) on the drive in but never checked it out. looks like a hellish bushwack to get anywhere near the rock up there. i think a buddy of mine has a route up there somewhere, though.
^not bull mt.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Jan 24, 2013 - 12:33pm PT
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Great stuff here, keep it up fellas!
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