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Jamulian
Trad climber
Jamul, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 26, 2012 - 03:03pm PT
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I saw this video and was surprised to not see it posted here yet. I thought it was a good "How To" video.
http://vimeo.com/53299008
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Nov 26, 2012 - 03:11pm PT
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The master at work by the mayor
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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Nov 26, 2012 - 03:13pm PT
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Roger Brown...Amazingly good job. We all owe him a many thanks.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Nov 26, 2012 - 03:27pm PT
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Nice video!
Cool to share how Roger does it.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Nov 26, 2012 - 03:34pm PT
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Great vid by Cheyne and great info from Roger, thanks guys!
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Nov 26, 2012 - 04:01pm PT
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Very cool video!
Manufacturing new tools to deal with bolts is half of the type 2 kinda fun you get when rebolting.
Roger and Clint have motivated many to pick a hammer and do some good.
Thanks for the selfless act, season after season!
Josh
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Nov 26, 2012 - 04:07pm PT
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D5 in action!
Great post!
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
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Nov 26, 2012 - 04:59pm PT
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You need a longer blow tube Roger, you're blowing that dust right back in your face;)
Seriously though, he's replaced thousands (that is plural, thousands) of bolts in Yosemite. Everybody who climbs in Yosemite more than likely has clipped one of his bolts and owes him a big Thank You.
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Byran
climber
Yosemite Valley, CA
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Nov 26, 2012 - 10:27pm PT
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nice work! what route is that he's replacing in the video?
The rope looks like it's maybe fixed on "Sink Like A Stone" on Loggerhead Buttress, but he's swinging over to the climb to the right. Not sure, I could be way off.
Awesome work. I'm not sure how many of his bolts I've clipped, but I'm guessing it's quite a few, and I've been grateful for every one.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Nov 26, 2012 - 11:26pm PT
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Yep, it's the indirect (right side) version of "Sink Like a Stone", where there were two 1/4" bolts. The main direct version was already 3/8".
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mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
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Nov 26, 2012 - 11:42pm PT
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awesome work guys, and great to have it on video so we can see the master at work. some really good pointers in there for replacement work!
thanks
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Nov 26, 2012 - 11:49pm PT
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Fantastic video. Thank you so very much for this hard work, what an incredible service. Literally saving lives.
I would LOVE to see some nice bolts at Castle Rock State Park.....illegal currently, but if that get lifted sign me up for the duty.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Nov 26, 2012 - 11:52pm PT
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awesome video.
i want clint's elbow.
seriously, dude, i call dibs.
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Nov 27, 2012 - 12:43am PT
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That drill looks familiar:-) Nice work Roger(and your cohort, Clint)!
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Nov 27, 2012 - 12:52am PT
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Boring. I'm done with all that bit.
:0)
You rock, Rog.
And Cheyne rolls the camera.
Excellent, expedient, and exactly the right stuff.
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frisbee
climber
{this page left blank intentionally}
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Nov 27, 2012 - 01:13am PT
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While climbing Goodrich Pinnacle on The Apron a few years back, we passed Roger who was swinging all over the place on a huge fixed line. Looked like he was having the time of his life wailing away at some manky bolt. We yelled 'Hello!' but he was too busy rocking out with headphones to hear us. Great guy!
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Meagher
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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What kind of drill is that? It looks nice.
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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Very much appreciated and especially the way it looks so simple and easy. I remember when I climbed el Cap 20 years ago, the main reason people stuck to the trade routes were the 1/4 inch bolts at anchors on the obscure ones. Nobody wants to risk having an anchor pull out, hauling off them, just look how easy they come out. Popped out with a gentle tap, did anyone notice this? Oh, don't worry, the hauling pulls on the hanger in a different direction, so it won't come out.
What do other people do to pull them out, just use different pitons to pry under the bolt hanger? You just tap it a couple of times and it comes out? I'm glad I didn't know about this before.
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westhegimp
Social climber
granada hills
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Thanks for all your hard work!
Wes
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Prod
Trad climber
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Seems like a character.
Great work.
Prod.
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